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Posted

Agreed yonny, the bad batch line isn't acceptable and wouldn't be acceptable in other retail areas!

 

Re kranks it is a shame as I've now lost confidence in a hook I really like. I don't get why any company would sell poor items and not have decent checks in place. Do they not value their reputation?

 

Two companies I now won't buy from are korda and tfgear. I'm sure a lot of their gear is good, but my disappointment with the kranks from korda and having got some bite alarms from Tf that were just toot, I will now not risk my money on any other products by those companies.

 

I'm reasonably confident Tf would have replaced the alarms, (they were ridiculously quiet and quickly died in the rain) but replacement is too late when I'm on the bank and stuff fails.

Posted

Can't say I'll write off all Korda gear but I'll certainly avoid the hooks. I've already written off Nash, Fox, Drennan/ESP.... I'm running out of options.

TBH Atomic hooks are all I use anyway nowadays - they've never let me down.

Posted

I've had Nash, korda and Gardner hooks all snap on me.

The best hook I have ever used is the solar X wide gape.

Hardly ever had any hook pulls and by far the strongest hook I've ever used,only problem is they have been discontinued.

Might have to give the solar 101 a go.

I've been using the deception range for the past couple of years,I've tried thier version of the krank but to I've had a few hook pulls so am undecided on that one but the other hooks I've used from their range have served me well.

Posted

I've had Nash, korda and Gardner hooks all snap on me.

The best hook I have ever used is the solar X wide gape.

Hardly ever had any hook pulls and by far the strongest hook I've ever used,only problem is they have been discontinued.

Might have to give the solar 101 a go.

I've been using the deception range for the past couple of years,I've tried thier version of the krank but to I've had a few hook pulls so am undecided on that one but the other hooks I've used from their range have served me well.

Must admit I've never had a problem with Gardner Mugga's in standard or Continental versions, although I have been using Solar 101's now for around a year.

 

I very rarely get hook pulls, maybe it's because I am probably anal about rig design and make-up. To me a hook pull is usually down to too short a hair for the situation you are fishing in, although I did find that helicopter and silt rig (bomb on the end of the line) set-ups I did get a fair number. I have a feeling it may be the angle of line pull is 'wrong' with them.

 

The last hook pull I can remember was on Ardleigh, when I was using a stiff hair on a stiff rig, I had played a fish for a few minutes when the fish just fell off. Takes on there were so few it was not a nice feeling. I considered the issue, and now avoid a stiff hair as I think it prevents the bait being taken in properly.

Posted

Got the hooks, am happy so far, oddly the size 12 is pretty much exactly the same as the 10. Possibly slightly wider gape on the 10.

I got 27lb on the scales before the size 8 bent, so I'm happier than the 15lb I got on the size 4 krank.

 

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Sorry mufty I couldn't see a straight eyed version

Posted

I've got to say I'm not claiming my test is exact or in any way proper! it is more a confidence thing,

 

Hook tied on line with a loop at the end. Hook goes onto Avon hook then loop the line under my foot, look at the dial on the scales and pull until something's snaps!!

Posted

Not a good idea fella - You'll exceed it's yield point which will weaken it.

Personally I wouldn't go near a fly hook for carp.

 

Hello Yonny 

 

The size 4 and 6 barbless in Neals' 'photo look pretty strong , could you go into a bit more detail  as to why you wouldn't use a  fly hook for Carp please  .

 

Ta

 

:wink:

Posted

Sorry Crusian and all, the top row of my picture is a mix of Kranks and krank choddies, the bottom row are the fly hooks I brought.

 

I can see what you mean yonny, most cases the patterns just aren't strong enough, but don't forget kamasan b175's are a trout hook.

Posted

Not a good idea fella - You'll exceed it's yield point which will weaken it

That must be why the original "angled " metal wire didn't catch on and we all go "netting" these days  :mrgreen: ........forgive me  though ,if hooks are actually casted and not folded ..

 

My experience  , with any metal, is it has to be  folded back and forth before it weakens enough too snap......Even DF , in one of his early vids uses pliers to adjust his hook pattern. :idea:  

Posted

could you go into a bit more detail  as to why you wouldn't use a  fly hook for Carp please  .

They're just not strong enough for my liking bud. That said, I'm a Nene Valley chap so have to deal with serious weed on most waters.

 

My experience  , with any metal, is it has to be  folded back and forth before it weakens enough too snap......Even DF , in one of his early vids uses pliers to adjust his hook pattern. :idea:  

Dude - My experience, as QA Manager for a manufacturer of heat treated carbon steel fasteners (the same process used to make hooks) for the automotive industry, tells me it's a fact that if the yield point is exceeded even once, you've weakened the hook significantly - spring rate is compromised so the hook cannot absorb shock as intended. Therefore when stresses on the hook reach a certain level the hook WILL bend rather than flex - it's just a question of whether those stress levels will be reached while the fish is being landed. I'm not saying you can't land fish on modified hooks (as you say, plenty have been landed), just that IMO it's not worth the risk - it's asking for trouble fella.

Posted

do you reckon that it would be possible to warm with a blow torch till " cherry " red then bend it without loosing strength of the hook

Afraid not bud, that would temper the steel which will reduce core hardness and hence the hooks strength.

Posted

I have talked to so many people who say they cant find a hook they have a good level of confidence in , I cant understand ! , surely a hook manufacturer looks through forums or has enough knowledge to know that its worth taking a punt on making something that will be up to it !  :confused: 

 I have lost around 4 or 5 good size fish over the last 3 years through hooks opening out or snapping

Posted

Is there anything particular about atomic hooks that you know is better or has it been simple trial and error?

I don't know anything for a fact but I do have an assumption fella -  that being that Atomic hooks are harder than other brands. I've sharpened my hooks for years and when I fist started using Atomic I found they took at least twice as long to sharpen which for me has to indicate higher hardness. As I mentioned previously high hardness is not always a good thing as it can lead to embrittlement, but I find Atomic are heat treated right in the sweet spot - hard as nails yet tough as old boots.

 

if my hook when hooked onto the metal of my Avon's scales is bending at 25lb (ish) would you deem that as acceptable? 

You are essentially performing a simple tensile test there. I wish I could give you some kind of equation or statistic that would tell us if your result is any good or not but alas, I cannot. It sounds quite low to me (based on similar tests I perform on similar components at work (although my testing is in compression rather than tensile)). Unfortunately I've never tested anything with such a thin gauge so I really cannot give you an answer of any value.....

What is interesting is that you obtained a higher result with the size 8 fly hook than you did with the size 4 Krank (which clearly has a thicker gauge). This would suggest that either the fly hook result is very good or the Krank result is poo.

 

 just ordered gamakatsu g point super strong and some korda xx  ,

Do you know, the second hardest hooks I've ever sharpened are the Gamakatsus......

I found you can sharpen Korda's by having a kitten lick them....

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