androoooo

I only have a limited knowledge but did quite a bit of reading over winter when not fishing. I would think it would have more to do with the bait beginning to be broken down and aminos being freed and being able to be better utilised by the carp (The enzymes are pre-digesting the bait so the carp doesn't need to). That will result in softness especially boilies as the egg protein (binder) is acted upon. If you manage to succesfully incorporate enzymes then you're going to end up with a soft bait and you're not going to be able to fish it on the hook or at least it's unlikely. You'll likely have to feed it as a carpet feed and put something more stable/hard over the top. The above may all be wrong though but if others have other thoughts would be good to hear them/be put right.

Turnip I only commented to clear up an inaccuracy associated to my name. Maybe someone else will want to have the discussion. There's too much hyperbole, conjecture and incongruence on the board for me to want to contribute.

The one I pointed you to is completely different to what John posted here from that company. One I sent talked a lot on enzymes but difficulties incorporating in a bait. As they are temperature and ph dependent and their inclusion will start to break down a bait so it's unusable on a hook. The one that John posted is about creating a chemical signal with no food source/substance behind it and attracting carp through meeting a deficiency it has and is seeking out. This thread had some great potential to educate and enhance people's knowledge. Maybe it will get going with people who understand bait and can add positively to it.

Yes, yes it does. That's how I tie them, a chod rig and then attach a boom. Usually I use a stiff coated braid but you could use a fluoro or other stiff material.

Dan.... with anything other than uncoated braid I think going loop to loop on a swivel may create your hook link to kick out at a funny angle. What NM is recommending is ideal. Just pull the hook link before casting to ensure it hasn't been moved by sliding the rig sleeve on. Other than that tension will keep it where it's meant to be.

I only just bought a new stove, have tried it twice as had a cheap one that struggled in winter. I went with the t4 bulin on recommendation elsewhere. Seems good so far from the little use it has had.

Separate to your question, you're Derby way aren't you? Guessing from the lakes you've mentioned previous. Have you fished allestree park lake? I've just seen it somewhere else. Looks like it holds some nice Carp. By the looks of them, I'm guessing clearish water which helps finding them. [emoji6]

I did mean a conference, where they attend. It tends to be the most visited stand on the day. I wonder why? If only I could rig the contests on yhe day as they have included pool partys in LA with Monster.

Monster girls are one of the few things I get to look forward to when attending work conferences. In fact I have one soon [emoji2]

Any succesful company relies on recruiting new users to it's brand. Korda have done a fantastic job at recruiting people to their brand. They've tapped into a growing number of people entering the sport and made it accessible. Through their youtube account and website and used this to recruit new carpers rather than trying to win more experienced anglers. That's where there success is. The korda products I have used I've found to do what they're meant to and can't really knock them. I think they get hate as they're associated more closely with new less inexperienced anglers that the more experienced anglers like to knock and so korda gets picked on as a result.

I don't think it's anymore expensive than a coated braid. Just can't get my head round it but heard lots and lots of good feedback on it.

I just got some n-trap. The hydrolink is completely different. A fluoro coated in braid, where you removed the inner or outer depending on what you want.

Doug...don't you have something like 15 different hook links? I'd be overwhelmed!

Doug.....will you have the hydrolink with you at horseshoe? I've been tempted to buy it but want to see what it's like first.

Tim agree with you but one of the advantages with fishing a stiff material straight through is I don't feel the need to add any form of pva to prevent tangles. It's one of the rare instances I don't on the basis that I don't want the hook link to have any element of food on it. I'll also feed quite heavily around it with particle and pellet with the hard hook bait. Finding they preoccupy themselves on the soft items and soon give up on the hard hook bait. I've been told adding shell to the boilies can help as, when the krays begin to whittle it down the sound travels through water and can attract the carp to feeding activity. How true this is I don't know but the bait company I was using last year advised it and tweaked the mix accordingly.

Will certainly be interested to see what you decide to go with. I do fish a water that is infested with crays and it does mean sacrificing aspects that I like in a rig. I'm a big fan of combis usually with a short supple braid section tied to a soft fluoro. I like the rigidity of the fluoro with more natural movement near the hook. If I'm fishing for a length of time on the bottom I.e. without constant re-casting I'll tie a straight through mono or more typically soft fluoro hook link. I want to prevent the crays from tangling braid and the rig to present even after interference. So some form of rigidity is required so that it resets, it does mean doing away with the natural movement near the hook. I tend to top with plastic corn and will cut a groove to better bury the boilie stop to prevent it being pulled out. This usually means adding some weight to the hooklink so if the boilie is removed your fishing a popup instead but avoid putty preferring split shot as the crays seem to like the putty. Most of the time though I'll avoid boilies and fish a tiger with the boilie stop buried inside. I'll just tie simple knotless knot style. Nothing fancy but then none of my rigs are overcomplicated. Having thought about my rigs, the only other one I use is the multirig and I would consider this and may try it with the d section pulled tight and a supple hair attached to the rig ring and a small break in the coating to allow the movement I like, whilst retaining the all important rigidness and resetting properties I would want. Next time I'm out on the water, I'll be trying this.

I've used rigs similar, with a size 11 swivel. Used to put a pop up on by pushing onto the swivel. I've stopped using it in favour or rig rings. I found if you didn't tie it off the popup would come off and it was a pain to tie. I'd put a loop through the swivel with bait floss, fold over a latching needle and pull the push up onto the swivel then tie a stop to prevent the popup coming off. Most presentations you'd use to tie something to rig ring will work but haven't found it more effective than a rig ring.

I didn't use the marker, just the adjustable zig float to get depth. But if it's only 6 ft wouldn't bother. My only fish came on a 3ft length straight off the lead. I went with Reedy from here and despite the fish being in the upper layers, he had better success on the bottom.

Tim....I used the exact set up as blanksalot over the last two days. Only suffered one tangle, I only had the one fish and that came on a zig straight of the lead. But most fishing was done with the adjustables with the fish cruising through the swim in 10ft of water. Couldn't seem to buy a bite. Tried different depths and with nothing happening tried spodding over the top, twice landing on my zig and catching on the spod.

Fishbits I certainly wasn't being in a hump about it. If it came across that way then I apologise. Like you say a lot of people will use it without thinking. From your posts I certainly wouldn't think that of you. So wondered why you would call it a cop out if you're thinking about when and where to use it? The first post the guy admitted bhe hadn't used it because of the associations it had with people using it for every situation and admitting it had been an error. So again with this is mind if it works when used correctly why is it a cop out rig? I'd read about your problem on another thread and tried to point you to that thread to have a read thinking it would help with your present problem of losing fish being bumped by the lead.

http://www.carp.com/topic/16148-chods-fixed-or-running/ a little in this thread from Jemsue5 I remembered reading some time a go.

Fishbits not sure why you'd call it a cop out? It's an effective rig. The very first post in this thread should give you an idea that it's not a cop out. I'm only just beginning to use them, used one for the first time the other week to cast at showing fish. It might not have been the best rig but I could be confident it presented ok in amongst the weed. I'm pretty sure a few have mentioned this before and advice has been to use as light a lead as you can get away with. I'm sure I've also heard of people tying a weak link to attach the lead with the bottom bead being stopped by the swivel and bead. So you have some distance between lead and hook link.

Tim just an inline float and running lead as per blankalots picture. The manufacturers have complicated it to make more money from it and the complexity probably makes it more prone to tangles. No need to fill with water as that's just for casting weight when surface fishing. Keep it simple, feather the cast and just make sure the float pops up. If the float doesn't pop up then you have a tangle.

Tim they are a little different from my experience. You don't fill them with water and ideally you want some kind of colour on the top so that you can see the float when it lands. A pike float does the job, a surface controller may if you can make it out at distance. I set mine up with the below. Running lead threaded on first. Line threaded through float and secured to swivel. Attach zig link, be sure to know the length of your hook link. Cast out. Tighten down, then let the bail arm off and let the float come to the surface. Tighten til the float is just going under hence needing to be able to see it. Reel in how ever many feet your hook link is. If it's four then from when the float goes under you need to take in four foot and the zig is on the surface. Then take in however much more you want to get the zig to the right height. Hope that helps.

It's not meant to be, it's just a general observation on life. We're all affected at a unconcious level by them music, colour etc all create a physiological response. To imagine anything different for animals would be wrong. For predators like pike it's quite often movement and vibrations. For carp the chemical change may stimulate a more primal urge to feed based on survival. When food is fresh and in abundance they may be more cautious. If it's that change in the makeup of the bait you're looking for then it would be done much better in lake water? I think most animals eating is driven by scarcity or abundance. It's why pre-baiting works and can be more effective when you stop feeding a day or two before, or creating competition by keep trickling in bait. A lot of whats been mentioned as examples of washed out baits working could be interpreted as scarcity. Now on different waters that scarcity or abundance may be created by other things. Naturals, anglers baits, stocking levels, angling pressure week days vs weekends, bait breakdown. If they have a lot of food, they may not be as opportunistic so the best way may be to think of little traps that are different to what's going on. A single in the margin almost like a discarded bait. These may be fed on more readily as they've generally always represented safe food. Now if that baits at the optimal point I guess it may be more attractive but as long as I knew fish patrolled that spot and maybe there were signs of feeding I'd be just as happy with a fresh one. One thing I do notice is that people tend to blame rigs and baits quite a bit for a lack of results. It tends to be easily remedied by buying the latest must have ingredient or rig item. It's easy for us to control as we can buy it. I'm not knocking people who understand bait and take the time to gain a deep knwoeldge but people who look at it as a quick fix rather than to work at understanding where fish visit or looking for signs of fish before setting up, I will accept the decision can be influenced by available swims. We can't control the fish all we can do is fish where they are, or likely to pass on their patrols.