cobleyn

Andy I've been using Seaguar Flouro in 45lb for my chods for a while. Happy with the results TBH. I've been using around 15ft of it and using it as a casting leader too. Give it a rub across your trousers (holding it very tight) to de-kink it, as its quite springy. Connect it with Albright knot to your mainline; but make sure your top bead can slip over the knot.

Sorry mate but I can't agree. I had to kill a large carp which was tethered to a "properly tied" lead-core rig which had already lost the lead so it wasn't the angler who had done anything wrong ............... other than using lead-core in the first place. Keith Out of interest how long was the piece of leadcore? Personally, I've moved off of using leadcore for my chods as there is just too much information around suggesting it is unsafe- so I am a convert; especially seeing 4 or 5 feet of the stuff being used for some rigs-just a bit daft that. All of that said and for the sake of discussion as much as anything else... Do we think a 12 inch piece when used for normal rigs (eg safety clip type set-up), instead of using rig tubing still that bad?

iv'e had loads of korda hooks open when fishing for big fish. there is only one hook i trust when big fish are around and that is solar longshanks in size 1 i've landed fish over 300lb on them and loads over 100lb. nuff said.

Hinged stiff link with a longshank nailer. Pop up held in place between two rubber grommets on the shank of the hook. Or zig.

Stick with it dan! The albrite is great knot and worth mastering.

As the weather picks up, I thought I would re-run this thread. The general concencus seems to be its got to be light and sharp...but other than that- everything seems to work. Surprised Danny's missed that trick K-Ziggers. But seriously- Does anyone have any other views on what makes a good Zig hook. Anecdotal thinking would suggest a 'chod' style hook would give the best hooking potential.

If you pull the line really tight (ie the bit that goes down to the swivel), it reduces the diameter- so it should go back through.

Google pellet wagglers. Match men love em. Trouble is that the wind will shift a float around which looks unnatural and need recasting regularly. Pellet waggler on match lakes is loads of fun though!!!!

They're a bit tight...but they do go over.

I tend to use around 5 metres nige. I put enough on so that I've got enough of a drop to cast and then another few turns on the reel in case I want to change the rig a couple of times and have to cut three or four inches off...then I dont have to re rig the whole leader. The choddy bead sits ok on the thick flouro...but on normal line it just skids up it on the cast. The beads will go over the leader knot with a tug...certainly a decent sized carp would pull it over if it got snapped and snagged. Just a couple of notes. I use an albright knot to join them as you can cut the ends to nothing so there is nothing to jam up as the bead slips up. Also I use the main line to wrap around the loop of the leader as this makes a smaller diameter knot. I use a baiting needle with a gate on it too, to thread it onto the line so...so that may also open the bore up a bit.

I use 45lb Seaguar flouro as a leader (to stop me from cracking off)... this is quite heavy and whilst it doesn't replace leadcore completely goes some of the way. Its less obvious too than leadcore which is invariably the wrong colour for the bottom it lands on. I've tried the Avid chod beads on it and they're OK (although they do slip a bit up the line when giving it the beans on a cast).

You're very welcome

Good advice from zammo. If the answer is no, or maybe...don't be afraid to experiment. It's interesting that you are having one on pop up and one on bottom baits. Generally choose one or other. If you don't have debris, weed, silt on the bottom there no need to have a pop up... They just look odd. by all means have something buoyant in the rig to make the bottom bait critically balanced...but don't have it floating three inches above the deck Equally if you have all of the above, try a pop up to present over the top of it. But don't feel you need a pop up just because the mags say you should use a pop rig. I re tied all of my rods today co incidentally ready for the spring period. I have one ready for maggots (supple braid) one ready for a balanced bait (flouro to braid combi) and a chod as a roving bait. The first two will be fished over bait and the chod will be a single that I cast at showing fish. By May I will re tie them all again, as i change my approach as the water heats up.

Good post ouchthathurt -lots of good stuff in there.

2 rod lengths, albright knot.

All- a bit of advise please, as I have been playing around with end tackle all afternoon in the garage and I can't get a rig I am happy with. I have been using leadcore on my choddies for some time and have become uncomfortable over time using leadcore, so have decided to move away.- PS lets not open that debate again. Nic - I know you're a big fan of leadcore so I know you're itching to defend it I've also stepped up from my old 2 1/2 TC rods that have gone nice and soft to some 3 and 1/2's. On my third cast with the new rods I've cracked off, something I never really had to worry about with my old rods even fishing 12lb straight through. So I have tied some 45lb Seaguar Florou on with a Albright knot, which is casting well with a straight lead on test casts. However, I've been mucking around with different beads and thicknesses of tubing this afternoon and I haven't found anything that slides over the top leader knot easily, yet still holds everything in position. I've heard that the Avid beads don't sit well on 'naked' line. Has anyone got any thoughts on either a Chod or helicopter set- up that is safe, with a leader knot. (PS I'm fishing a silty lake with little or no hard patches)

You'd be surprised at the fish that have been caught over the years from rods thrown in the bushes and left out all night whilst their owners go home on day only waters; or go to the pub, or concerts. Got to catch the fish- if you're a big name! Back on topic...Might take a look at the book; I had been hanging my nose over it- some of the best articles and features I've ever read are by less known anglers.

Braid where its allowed. A splat of vaseline on mono works well

@Carpfisherlee. - I agree with your sentiment. There are other good baits out there. But where do you start when you are just beginning. There are 20 different companies each with 10 different varieties that all seem plausible. Every company calls their bait "tutti trifle fish splat" and all young anglers do is say"is this any good" on the forum and there will always be an angler who will say something good about any bait. Very confusing for the new angler. There isn't a carp that swims that won't eat Nutrabaits Pineapple and banana boilies. Its been around for 10+ years and has caught a million carp. Not cheap I know - but if you want a bait that you can 'take anywhere' and know it will work- it ticks the boxes. I haven't used Richworth or mainline- but know by reputation and longevity that they are proven carp catchers. I'm just trying to make life easier for newcomers until they have dialed in the rest of their game.

Hey Ross -Best advice is to go to a high stocked water- with some smaller fish and just learn how the rigs work. Don't worry too much about 'getting done' at this stage and being paranoid about not getting good bite indication. Most anglers sit in the backs of their bivvys and attribute odd bleeps to the wind without even looking up from their magazines. Sorry- a bit off topic. If you go to a runs water or match type lake such as drayton or earlswood and learn to sit on your rods - watch the water and just enjoy catching fish. Your knowledge of rigs will improve over time. One is pretty much as good as the other for 70% of the waters you will fish. Old, wily, pressured fish that have natural food at their disposal can get 'riggy' or at least we convince ourselves that they do after our 10th blank on the bounce. But I would avoid those waters like a plague for at least 5 years. Just enjoy your angling and try and take a few seasons to learn your trade- most of all fish safe ie. Keep your rigs safe for the fish. On the topic of bait- Boilies are there to make money out of anglers who don't know any better. If its taking you hours to get your rods in position and you are leaving them out for hours/ days at a time- use them by all means- stick with Nutrabaits, Richworth or mainline in flavours that have been around for 3 years+ and you won't go far wrong. If your rigs are getting tangled, or your casting isn't accurate, or you think you may have dropped into weed- take the opportunity to re-cast after half an hour or an hour. If you are doing this there is no reason why you cant use maize, maggot or worms (unless you are surrounded by nuisance fish- in which case stick to maize as its a bit more resilient). Having a rubbish boilie on will diminish your chances, rather than a single piece of artificial maize or some jolly green giant which will catch literally ANY freshwater fish that swims. Seeing 'Named' anglers on tele dropping 3 kilos of boilies on each rod out everytime they fish- make anglers think that this the way forwards. Remember- you are there to catch them- not feed them. Most angling programs are there to sell you products- not to teach you how to fish.

First piece of advice I can give you is wait till the spring. You may end up reeling back in a soggy bag in the current water temps!

Odd post Pippa; you seem to suggest that just about everyone is wrong apart from you?

On the hinged 360 rig I have been using latterly this year; I've been tying the pop-up onto a mini swivel that is threaded onto the shank of a longshank nailer. This is then held in place by two float stops. So the hair (ie. the swivel) is only a 5mm long,but it has the ability to move 15mm as the carp blows out,as its not anchored in place on the shank. I can't say I fully understand the physics of how it works- but it seems to be doing the business. NB. Whilst I haven't noticed mouth damage whilst using these hooks- I do understand the issues with them and wouldn't recommend them to anyone fishing for fish that will get caught more than a couple of times a season.

I seem to recall a thread like this a few weeks back entitled KISS (not the rock band). My views are much the same as that topic. Keep it as simple as you can- but only if circumstances allow. If you need to go complicated- keep those rigs and rig tying materials in your back pocket (not literally) if you need them. I've seen one or two high profile fisherman saying ' this is all you will EVER need' a smiple knotless knot using a combi link material with some shrink tubing and a bottom bait with some plastic corn. ......WRONG..... You throw that into a lot of lakes and you'll never get a bite. Its just an indication that a lot of 'names' fish flat bedded pits and ponds with no weed, snags or silt that are well stocked. Unfortunately they need to catch fish for magazines so have to fish easy waters and just assume that their simple wonder rig works everywhere. Kevin Nash has released a DVD about rigs and rig evolution that gives a really good insight into a thinking mans approach to rigs and how and why he's used the rigs where he has over the years. I've personally started to use more 'complicated' rigs again this season after watching the DVD and thinking more about application,as I got into a rut of using the same things. I've added a combi rig using stiff flouro and supple braid (hinged on a loop and a swivel)- instead of shop bought combi material and a hinged stiff rig using a 360 style arrangement to my armourey this year. The combi link has seen moderately more success, but the otehr rig has smashed one water in particular, that was proving to be tough. So I think it does make a difference.