yonny

The article says they add salt to the water on their farm. Either way, we're not spodding 24 tonnes lol. Were talking grams, which is completely negligible. We're not talking about a % worth discussing, we're talking in terms of PPM.

Always worth keeping an eye on them buddy. It's worth keeping an eye on anything and everything tbh, just the slightest sign can help. I completely agree mate. I did a winter on the Mill a while back. It was awful lol. Didn't see a carp for 3 months. Where as on Heron with it's shallower depths, I had real good results. Maggots!

For sure mate I know that. This is a debate, nothing more. Quite a good one imo. Good example, but for me we know salt is safe to use (within reason). We would need to spod 24 tonnes of salt into a one acre lake just to achieve the salinity koi enthusiasts desire of their ponds: https://www.carpology.net/article/features/the-truth-about-salt/ Edit: that's from Simon Scott, one the most respected fish farmers in the UK.

Good call mate. As water gets colder it gets denser so the coldest water will be on the deck, particularly in the deepest area. Some believe this is part of the reason the feeding spells are so short - because it's physically uncomfortable for them to feed on the deck due to temps. Obviously zigs can come into their own in this case.

Good info mate. In that case I'd recommend the Tempest or Hide lol.

You need to be looking now mate - they'll be starting to visit the winter areas already and those early signs can make or break a winter campaign. If you can, I'd be baiting those areas too (and keep that going all through winter). There is no point starting baiting in winter as you've already missed the boat and their metabolism will have slowed. If you keep it going in from autumn, they'll keep feeding. Regards fishing in winter itself, be ready for long periods of inactivity. They will show you where you need to be, but the levels of activity are very low, and it often comes in the dead of night (1 - 3 AM). When it gets dark at 4 or 5 PM that can seem like a very, very long wait (by 8 PM it feels like midnight!). Every pit is different but I've found areas of consistent depth near (not in) the deepest water can often serve as winter holding areas. Keep your eyes on shallower water when the sun comes out, especially if there are reed beds about. It's worth trying to find out about past winter captures as the holding areas usually stay the same year-on-year in my experience. Don't expect too much. Sometimes you can be bang on them but at the end of the day their metabolism slows so they simply don't need to eat much. That said, imo they will feed for a short period every day so if you can find where that is, you can sometimes set you watch by the takes. The hardest thing about winter is staying focused as the hours pass by with no signs whatsoever. Just one single sighting can make the difference between a great campaign and a whole winters blanking, so you absolutely need to keep those eyes open and just keep going. Good luck.

I think it's fair to say that implication comes from the UK carp angling fraternity, not just this forum.

Example please buddy? The same logic is applied to all particle baits. Then we have boiled baits which unlike particles are highly digestible (assuming you're using a half decent one), and pellet which break-down in minutes. Naturals such as maggot and worm are digestible, only the skins pass through.

I am not aware of any brolly that provides a cavity between the brolly itself and the wrap. This essentially makes the wrap completely redundant as you need that cavity to reduce condensation. It is the layer of air that insulates against condensation. In terms of heat and heat loss, no wrap is capable of insulating a brolly to any degree of effectiveness. Your body is the key heat source so decent clothes and sleeping bag is what you need here. Brollies that take a warp include: Trakker Tempest Brolly Aqua Fast & Light ESP Lo Pro All very good brollies, but imho a complete waste of time and money adding the wraps.

I'm guessing the high salt content will inhibit the tigers production of that thick jelly-like sugary slime no? It's your call buddy. Like you say we cannot tell you that you are wrong, we cannot provide the evidence you seek. Let's just hope your tactics don't yield said evidence.

They're proper good they are, and they're actually one of the cheapest options with image stabilisation there is!! Mrs would go mental if I bought some of them lol.

It's about risk innit. It's been known since day dot that particles need to be prepared correctly to eliminate all risk to the fish. It's your call to ignore that risk. In the UK if we even thought about using unprepared particles, on ANY water, we'd be banned for life. On a side note, even prepared particles aint that good for them. Imo the least we can do is try to improve digestibility through decent preparation. At least that way they get the benefit from the limited nutritional content on offer.

This time of year I'd happily use either tbh buddy.

I've seen it on several occasions. On one syndi I saw a bed of boilies go weeks uneaten, they slowly rotted on the deck. I'm not sure what you would consider 'normal' and 'highly attractive' baits. I only use bait that I consider to be attractive. There are numerous records of this happening in angling books. On an overstocked lake I'm sure you're right, bait will get taken almost anywhere. But on lower stocked waters you need to think carefully imo.

I guess it also depends what can be considered an average lake buddy. For examples, I know you fish big un-pressured inland seas, where here in the UK we tend to fish highly pressured waters with fish that have seen everything. I know for a fact that on many of these UK waters, bait in the wrong place will go un-eaten and rot on the bottom.

I would agree with you that salt and other substances are yet to be proven but I understand that it is scientific fact that AAs are attractive/stimulate feeding in carp and other fish.

I looked into it very closely buddy but never did it. They're essentially fancy composters. We do have a composter which is absolutely loaded with worms but the mrs won't let me nick them lol.

For me the most significant thing is putting your bait where the carp like to feed. Your bait could be in position for weeks. If the carp are not prepared to feed there, or worse; they're not there at all, it's all a waste of time.

All animals are built from amino acids (proteins).

Fox have just bought out the new micron m and micron mx. Worth checking out.

How much do you want to spend buddy?

They wash away to nothing and cost a fortune mate. Not worth the hassle. Your best bet is maggot and worm, including the mud the worms come in. Don't add crumb, hemp, or corn, they'll make the mix less effective in a situation where naturals are the one.

Complete lunatic. He hacked one of the other forums after he was banned so all you could see when you logged on was a massive photo of some turnips lol. No joke. He was on the X Factor too. A link was posted to the footage and he went completely mental, proper meltdown, got the solicitors involved and everything (come to think of it that melt-down might have lead to the hacking). His writings are well known to go on and on and on...... lots of it drivel, with seemingly hundreds of over-priced, over-complicated recipes. I can see why you didn't like it mate. Bait can be as complicated as we want to make it but the absolutely key basics are covered very, very well in the bait chapter of Mike Willmott's first book Carp Life. Really good chapter, dead simple, and covers all the really, really important stuff.

Absolutely agree. I probs agree with that too mate. Tbh I'd use the S2's in almost any situation other than an all-out baiting campaign (when I'll want to be using a matching recipe), but spring is when they come into their own imo.

In the summer when I'm fishing boilies I prefer to use a corkball pop up. They provide a proper food signal that cannot be matched by airballs imo. Cork ball pop ups are after all made out of food. In winter I'm less concerned about a food signal as such, rather I'm looking at giving them something more blatant that they just cannot help but investigate. Airballs are decent here. I'll also use airballs when birdlife is a problem, when I want to use smaller hookbaits over none boiled baits (which is quite often), when I want to suspend alternative hookbaits such as maggots, and when I want a hi-attract/hi-viz smelly one off the side of the main spot. I'm sure there's other reasons too. For singles I'll happily chuck a cork ball out but I'm just as confident in a bright smelly airball.