salokcinnodrog

I nearly always use a Swivel. It provides a Stopiing Point thats neat and Tidy for my Running Rigs. A swivel also means that I can change the Bare Minimum of Rigs in seconds without having to Cut the Leadcore, as I can get them through the Splice on Leadcore Loop-Loop style. The swivel also means that if a Carp rolls it doesn't create twist. The swivels also provides a point for my PVA Stringers to be looped/tied onto

With the Leadcore on the upper section I don't need to use any putty at all

Thread moved to Where to Fish in UK. I would also suggest that you put up a Search for "Monument" as there has been quite a bit on it in the Past Possibly one of the best people to ask for more on it is Jemsue5, if he's willing or able to tell you

Yes I agree I was typing out loud I think there No Problem, far better to think and query than to accept Blindly

Had the same problem with Silkworm, I ended up resorting to a Hair Dryer to get it not to "shrink" on some of the fibres

Problem is where is your lead going to sit on this? If your lead is going on the Weak Link then it negates the Whole Point of the Shockleader. With a Running Lead and the Large Run Ring then the Carp will only be trailing the Leader in the event of a Crack/Snap-off. The run ring will pass over the join. Since its not going to be held tight with anything then its unlikely to Snag. I see what you are saying though, have a swivel/knot attached to your Shockleader at the Hooklink end, then a swivel attaching that to your Shockleader with the Lead running on the Shockleader. In my view it creates another point that is a possible weakness in your Tackle. Just stick to the Shockleader, but make it as Safe as you possibly can

Why don't tapered leaders work for you? For sea fishing I use the orange Daiwa Tournament tapered shock leader on Daiwa Turbo reels I honestly don't know why they don't work for me! I Have used them Sea Fishing as well as Carp Fishing and I continually get Crack-offs. I have tied my own knots and had them tied by a Casting Instructor and Still get Crack-offs. For Sea Fishing The reels I use are Standard Abu Elites, and for Carp Fishing Aerlex's. I can only presume its something to do with my Casting Action?

Hi Mate, I have had Braid put a groove in a Tip Ring. As has been said above, for every ounce of Lead use 10lbs of Shockleader. Sorry if you think this is teaching you things you know anyway, but it may be useful for others as well When it comes to Shockleaders and Knots I always use a Running Lead on the Run Rings (as I do normally anyway). With a Tight Line it acts as a Semi-Fixed Lead anyway. If you want a good Shockleader knot then try this: The normal material I use for Shockleaders is Black Amnesia in 30 or 35lb. It seems softer than the Clear. Or Grey Drennan Greased Weasel in whatever strain required. You may find that the Tapered Leaders available work for you, but they don't for me! Both Amnesia and Greased weasel tie a tidy knot. I do just slightly blob the tag end of the leader with a Lighter to prevent the knot coming undone if there is any slippage, (not that I have had it happen) and also because I don't like a Sharp tag end. Keep the knot to the Back of the Spool when you reel in and it will reduce possible tangles and prevent a large amount of line coming off the spool in a Birds nest on the Cast.

Hooks can go rusty if you Use the Steam from the Kettle to Shrink your Shrink tubing. You have to shake and dry them properly before you put them away or put some Silca Gel in your wallet or Rig Bin. Silica Gel absorbs the moisture.

Use uncooked Hemp and put a needle through as many grains as you want on the hair. Thread them onto a very fine nylon hair and then attach it to the hook. Lee Jackson use to swear by this method.

Leave a hooklink on in the Rod Holdall and the hook nearly always goes rusty. As soon as I get home I put fresh Rigs on, ready for the next trip

Look at the Shrink Tubing from somewhere like Maplins, RS or Electrical Supplies. Its a lot cheaper than that that is sold in the Tackle Shop and is the SAME PRODUCT but unbranded by a Tackle Manufacturer

SSSHHH!!! Don't give people ideas, especially when I've been trying to work on this and play with it on the occasions I do use putty and pop-ups.

I sometimes use Pole Olivettes as Pop-up counterbalances. I think its Drennan that manufacturer some that are held on the Line by small pieces of Tubing at either end. Since they are Mouse Dropping shaped they sit flat on the bottom without being too obvious.

Ninghai, WeiHai and Ningbo, China, all 1 parent company, produce many of the Major Brands, Fox, Nash, etc Bayer Perlon, produce Maxima, Drennan, Bayer, Sylcast and Daiwa (I think) Yo-Zuri, many of the American lines Shakespeare, USA

Mate, there are many items of Tackle that are exactly the same. Manufactured in the same factory, but the Company who Buys them, Brands them and Prices them differently. I can think of 4/5patterns of hooks that are the same hook, just different names go on the Packet, be it Nash, Carp-r-us, Korda, Gardner etc. In fact Kamasan and Drennan Hooks are definitely the same factory. Also the same with various Makes of Line. I think in Total there are 6 Line Manufactures in the World. Yet how many brands of Line? Sylcast, Drennan, Maxima and Bayer all used to be Manufactured in the same place in Germany.

Yes it can be done. The NISA Pole Feeders were designed for it on the River Yare, so just adapt your Pole Fishing techniqes to suit. Or think about Float Ledgering Tactics that were in use Years ago and adapt them!

Why The need for a Black Braid? If you look at Kryston SuperSilk it will do the job very effectively. Its white when you get it, but it takes on the Colour of the Silt rather nicely! As for the PVA Bag, unless you make it buoyant it will take the whole lot into the silt

In the Winter the Area from Riverside Road to the back of the Football Ground produces Roach up to the 2lb Mark, Pike to well over 20lb, some Big Dace to nearly a pound and the occasional Big Perch. Not seen Many Bream in the Winter though. Upstream of New Mills Yard there are som e Good Carp and Bream all through the Year Because of the Alco problems at night its not an area I would fish after Dark now. The River Green Area on the Yare at Thorpe is a Good Bet for Big Roach, Bream, Pike and the Occasional Carp in Winter as they hide out of the Main Flow. In Summer head up to the Whitlingham area for the Bream and Carp. There is a Marina at Thorpe on the Island that the Carp head to to Spawn, there are a lot more that Go into that area than you would think. I have seen a good Couple of Hundred Fish in there. Incidentally Guys, REMEMBER NOT TO SWEAR! I will ban the next Person who I sees put any Swearing in their Posts

http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=23566&highlight=back+leads

Why? What are you trying to do? If the water is weedy then the answer should definitely be No! If its clear then there are other ways to keep the line down. Use Slack Lines and Running Leads, possibly with Weighted Rig Tubing to keep the Line down near the End Tackle. If you want to keep the Line away from other rods then they may be worth considering. In my view Back Leads reduce the Indication that you get relayed to your Alarms. It increases the Time that it may take to get any indication.

I used the Blood Knot for years before I got into Specimen Fishing and it served me well. Its only when I switched to Braids that I started tying the Uni/Clinch knot. I just find it easier and more confidence building to stay with one type of knot on braids and Monos than have a Blood Knot on the Mono, a Uni or Clinch on the Braid.

Must admit I don't like Stiff rigs in silt! If the Lead takes the swivel into the silt deeply or settles in, even with a Loop Knot, you can have a Stiff Piece of Line sticking straight up in the water from the swivel. Fro that you may need to then lengthen the rig to allow for the curve back down to the Lakebed. It also mean you may have to fish more buoyant hookbaits. (Think about it)

I think that nearly every Angler and definitely Carp Angler has broken the odd rule here and there!

Think you'll find the Uni Knot and the Clinch knot are the same?