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salokcinnodrog

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Everything posted by salokcinnodrog

  1. Be better off using a smaller swivel, about a size 8. Have a look at this thread, there is a pic that Courtz attached: http://www.carp.com/forum/t18618/s.html
  2. Try this thread as well on Rigs, Kryston Merlin, there is a pic of a rig on there tied using a Knotless Knot: http://www.carp.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=17676 If you have a search there are other pics and rigs about.
  3. I use Carp-R-Us Barbless Nailers for Bottom Baits and the Longshanks nailers for Pop-ups. I also still have some B175's which I removed the Barb from for pop-ups.
  4. http://www.killroys.com/knots/duncan.htm If you tie it straight onto the Hooklength just as a Loop, you can see how it works from the pics. Hope that Helps Nick
  5. With your Hooklength Material Tie a Uni knot at the end so that you have a sliding Loop. Place your Pellet into the loop and tighten it up so that it holds the pellet securely. Attach your hook with a knotless knot and the pellet at the distance you want the bait away from the hook on the Hair. The pellet is easy to change when you need to as the loop will loosen with a pull on the tag end. You then have a ready baited Pellet rig that works well for Pop-ups or other baits as well.
  6. I got loads as a Free Sample when working in the Tackle Shop, I'm only now getting low on the stuff. I hope the Wychwood is as good as I might actually have to buy some more rig material at last. I haven't bought any for over 3years;) :D Another thing I bulk buy or Talk to Tackle Reps nicely;)
  7. Big Fish Adventure used to Market it, before they went down. Wychwood took up the Mantle, I think last year, it is very soft, supple and the Colours match the Lakebed.
  8. Another "Why Pay Tackle Shop Prices type query", Electronics suppliers market it a lot cheaper than you can buy the stuff from Tackle Shops.
  9. used the Carp-R-Us Barbless Nailers on there with no Problems, or I did remove the Barb on Nailers if you are on about the same Lake, with No Complaints from the owner.
  10. Best search is Leadcore vs Fluorocarbon or Invisible Leaders, think there have been 6/7threads recently on this if you have a look
  11. I think that everyones opinions are valid, but I do make sure that my Leadcore rigs can eject the Lead and don't get jammed up. I don't even have a problem with the splices at either end of the Leadcore and they are NOT GLUED as the splice pulls tight onto itself. I use 15lb Mainline attached to the Leadcore with a Uni knot into the splice and have not had a Snap-up since I started using it. The Hooklink is 15lb either in Braid/Coated Braid or Amnesia The weak spot in any set-up is going to be the Knots. The knot that attaches the hooklink or the Knot attaching the Leadcore to the Mainline. I have full confidence in attaching the Mainline to the Leadcore with a Uni Knot and the hooklink to swivel with loop knot or Uni Knot, knowing that if anything breaks it will be the Swivel knot. I have landed Hard Fighting Carp on this set-up to well over 20lbs.
  12. I can't see why not. It is the weight of the lead that gets the distance, just by tidying the hooklink up by nicking the point of the hook into the pva you could actually be increasing distance. No bait and that flapping around
  13. You can still use stringers, but that causes the cast to wobble slightly. The hooklink doesn't have to be free to revolve in the cast as what makes the distance of the cast is the Lead momentum and velocity.
  14. Yes, it is probably safer to the Carp. If you have the Helicopter swivel going on the Mainline there is the possibility that because you are pulling against the Carp at an angle that it will eventually break the Line. If you use Tubing you prevent much of this damage that MAY be caused. If you have a Snap-up with a helicopter how long will it be before the Carp is able to eject the Lead, hook and hooklink?
  15. Yes you can use Mini bags or Fishnet PVA on a Heli rig. If you attach them to the Lead then your feed may be a little way away from the Hookbait though. You can attach PVA to the hook though If you use really small bags about the size of a 50p piece and get the Bait and some freebies in the Pva it works nicely, just get it as round as possible.
  16. Carp-R-Us Nailers in both the standard and Longshank verisons are very sharp, sticky sharp. I have found that they go in and stay in. I have not lost a fish on them since I started using them. LongShanks work well for Pop-ups for me and I prefer the standard for bottom baits. If you need a strong hook in the same style have a look at the Carp-R-Us Centurions a look as well.
  17. I use Trilene XL for Floater fishing, very thin and very strong. Good Line for hooklinks, just not as a Mainline
  18. Sorry Just reading through this Thread again and double checked the validity of some of the posts, against my thoughts and noticed this. Not being funny but a Combi Rig is not a Simple Rig! It is an advanced presentation designed for use where Braid was needed for Subtlety yet unable to be fished as Total Braid is not Tangle free. Most hooks can be made more effective by lengthening the Shank of the Hook, either with a Stiff Presentation or by adding Tubing of some form. By Stiff Presentation You could stiffen up by other means, not just tubing. Yet ShortShanked wide Gape Hooks seem to be the Best Selling hooks of the moment, so why are we fishing with a presentation that is Naturally inefficient? Going back over my Last Post I just noticed I put that I prefer Short Shanked Hooks, but even these I lengthen with a Line Aligner/tubing.
  19. If you had done a search you would have found this thread, same question: http://www.carp.com/forum/t18003/s.html
  20. Piece of Cake! Use a Gardner tube threader, diamond eye Pole Threader, or Amnesia
  21. Description straight from Solar Tackle:
  22. I use ESP Leadcore and Running Leads and a Slack Line for the majority of my Fishing and there are quite a few posts on this subject if you have a search. I think that with Running Leads you are actually increasing the sensitivity and get a better indication. The Leadcore keeps the Line down to the Lakebed and provides a bit of resistance to a Taking Fish, but I don't think enough weight for the Carp to use it as a Lever to use to eject the hook. Also if using Barbless enough resistance to hold the hook in on the Take. Incidentally I have not lost a fish on this set-up since I have started using it with Barbed or Barbless hooks. I use Solar Run Rings, Buffer Beads and beads for all of my fishing as I found that they work for me and prefer to avoid using Korda Tackle as Solar are the original and in my view the Best. The thread below has a pic of my Leadcore set-up, which is spliced at both ends and set so I can change rigs in seconds. The rest of the thread is about Hook Sharpness. http://www.carp.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=17291
  23. I'll stick with using as little Nash gear as I can. Just don't like the company!
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