salokcinnodrog

I think it was me who wasn't clear on the Withy Pool Rig I tried it using Shrink Tubing and Plastic Tubing. With the Shrink Tubing it obviously relied on the Shrinkage to hold its curved position. With the version I tied up using Plastic Tubing I used an Olivette to hold the Curve. When that was pulled the Olivette slid and the Tubing straightened. I think not much chance of Mouth Damage with that! All I know that the Rig Pic I put up is that it was Ken Townley who Published it. I just read the Chapter in Big Carp and the rig itself was given no name

Knew I had it: Also the Pic from the Basic Rig Tying sticky Slightly different from the Ken Townley rig, but you see the similarity just without the Ring near the Hook eye

After playing about with a Withy Pool rig in the Bath, using a Soft Tubing and the line pulled at various angles I can't see it doing any damage. The 360 Rig causes me a lot of concern. For it to be publicised without a Safety Feature is very worrying. I think there are far Better Pop-up rigs about than the 360rig. Even a standard D-rig or a Swimmer Rig is I think a better option. There was a Rig that Ken Townley published in Big Carp by Tim Paisley that I think has a very effective potential. Yet I don't often see it published. In fact now thinking about it, its on the Rig Tying Sticky, but not with its full diagrams. I'll find it later and put it up

Very difficult to get a Pivot on it, although the Hooklink end can be lifted slightly

Looks like you may have some Bait or rig wary Carp to work out then Mate

I can't remember the Last Time I used a Semi-Fixed Lead, probably about 5years ago. I found then that I was probably losing/missing fish due to sensitivity Issues. A Mate and I went to a water near us and found that with Semi-Fixed Leads, the Carp were backing away and straightening and feeling for the Lead. The hook was in the Lip, but on feeling the Lead the Carp stopped, sucked, blowed and manipulated their lips and 4 out of 5( ) times the Hook was ejected, with maybe a couple of bleeps With a Running Lead and a SLACK LINE and the same Rigs the Carp would back away the same distance as the Semi-fixed rig length, then could not use the Running lead as a Pivot and so it created the extra Panic and a proper run. We may have had a couple of bleeps first, but then you do get a screamer. Those bleeps are enough to make you look up and get to the rod anyway We were actually watching the Carp so we know it was happening. If you fish a Running Lead with a Tight Line then by virtue of the Fact that you have a Tight Line, you have a Semi-Fixed Lead

Know what you are saying, but over Beds of Bait a Long Hooklink WILL be inefficient. The Carp is constantly sucking and blowing, the Hook is going to get blown in and out or cause Deep Hooking/Bite-offs. Yet fish the Long Hooklink where your Free Boilies are further apart and the Carp won't be sucking and blowing the Bait/Hook. It will be moving from 1 bait to the next. Even better if you can find a Hooklink that the Carp are unaware of and can't feel. That slackness can also give the fish more confidence to the Carp to move further with the Bait/hook in its mouth. Look at most hooklinks in common use at the moment, most are stiff, either Monos, Fluorocarbons or Coated Braids. Very few people fish Uncoated Braids. Even those who strip the Braid tend to do just a short section near the eye of the Hook. They will provide inherent stiffness. They tend to fall pretty straight from the Lead, yet a Braided hooklink won't fall straight. Its that not straight effect that is what hooks the Carp. Also If you use the Longer Hooklinks with Running Leads then the Carp has nothing to shift the Lead with as it has no Pivot Point. Like I say if most people are fishing Short Links then I prefer to go Longer. Another test for you, feel a piece of Mono, Fluorocarbon or unstripped Coated Braid on your lips. Then try the same with a normal soft/supple braid or Multi Strand. I'm willing to bet that if it is not pulled tight you will be able to feel the Stiffer materials, but not as much the Softer Hooklinks. If you really want to get into it then Look at the Complicated Rigs thread in Advanced Carp Fishing. Beware there is 4 pages of Thoughts, opinions and tests and some of it is pretty headache inducing stuff, but it will help understanding.[/i]

Sure but wasn't he fishing "stiffer" hooklinks?

15lb Amnesia, I use it for Combi Rigs and Stiff Rigs, Loop knot at the swivel and a D-rig at the Hook, mostly for Snowman set-up

The average length of a Carp rig at the moment is between 6 and 9inches long. I try to be different from the Norm, but think that short hooklinks work better over plenty of Bait. So the majority of my Hooklinks tend to be 20cms or Longer. Also when the Majority of Anglers seem to be fishing Mono/Fluorocarbon Hooklinks I try to be different fishing Braided or Coated Braid hooklinks. Carp hitting the weight quicker with a Short Hooklink could also be responsible for more Hookpulls. Because the Lead has come into play and the Carp is just mooching over little bait (unbaited areas, just a PVA Bag), it may not be feeding confidently. Lengthen or make the Hooklink more supple may give the Carp more confidence to take the Bait back further and so give a better hookhold. I know that most Articles with PVA Bags and the Method and the rigs seem to be short. Maybe changing this could improve results. Also say the Carp has become used to pulling a Bait for 15cms (because it has become so used to being hooked this way), then to fish with a 30cm hooklink may totally confuse it. The pull does not arrive so the Carp moves further and what had been a Couple of Bleeps becomes a Full Blooded run. Not sure if that makes Total Sense as I'm on a few Beers , but I think you can get my Drift

Ditto. Kryston Super Mantis (Gold and Green types) has caught me more fish than any other makes. Although i really dislike their Snakebite. Really get on with all of the Kryston Hooklinks, even Multi-Strand.

If its the 3 boilies on 3 hair set up its weird, and looks like a pair of Testicles with an Organ poking down. A boilie either side of the Hook shank and the 3rd on a Normal Hair. To be Honest, its a pain to tie, and is just complicating the Issue

Possibly have a look at P-line Floroclear. Its a Mono Coated with Flourocarbon. I got some at 5Lakes the other week, and I'm just playing and Testing it at the moment. At the Show there were some rigs in a Tank of water with a Gravel Bed bottom (you know what I mean). The Line could not be seen under Fluorescent Light of the Hall. It has apparently no Memory, does not coil off the Spool as it is held on its side. It seems to knot well with a Uni Knot with very little Knot Crumple. Just got to play with it a little more though. There is a Direct Order website, PM me if you want details

If you are sure that the ones you make yourself will not become a Tether rig or Death rig then I'm sure you won't get moaned at. Its just making sure that all the Parts that release properly if a Snap-off does occur, which is why I said about the Solar ones on their site. I know they work and release, although I have my doubts about the Korda ones (Safe Zone? see a thread on Leadcore!)

http://www.tacklebox.co.uk/line_tests.htm Is the link to the Tackle Box Line tests

True, but some homemade ones are not the safest. At least if you get a Ready Made set-up all the Components should fit each other and release as required. Far better to know that the Carp are safe than be fishing a Death Rig

http://www.solartackle.co.uk/ Complete Helicopter Rig Kit. In my views the Solar Tackle is the Best.

Thread Moved into UK Where to fish

Hi Mate, Welcome to the Forum I have moved your thread into Fishing in France section

You have to remove some of the Lead Inner, enough to tie the Knot. Leadcore is one of those things I am having Grave doubts on in Fishing now. If a breakage occurs above the Knot then there is no way that a Carp can get a Slack line at all, there will always be some tension in the Hooklink. With a Helicopter Set-up then the Rig MUST be free to slide off the Leadcore. I would suggest that you have a look at some Dumbell Beads, Cox and Rawle used to make them. They went on the Line/Tubing and the Top Bead could slide off allowing the hooklink to come free. If not then as long as the Top Bead can slide off the Tubing then it should be free to slide off the Leadcore over the Needle Knot. The worrying thing is the Beads ability to slide off the Tubing. Rubber Beads may help, but even then there is still some friction which may prevent it coming free. There are some Helicopter Set-ups sold, I would look at the Instructions on them and see if they are suitable. IF ANY DOUBT AS TO ITS SAFETY THEN DO NOT USE LEADCORE! Yes, I did shout that on Purpose

Try asking about them as Bert Wrights Pits! Got a few bits and pieces about them that is years old, but it may help Tel:01842764312 or 01953498289 It did used to be Day Ticket, but with No Night Fishing except by Special Arrangement, so this may have changed. Nick

With the expection of the Clearwater material, I have all of those hook length materials in my tackle box. Between those materials you can cover pretty much all rig situations. I do really rate the hook length materials by Kryston, and I am always sceptical when I first use materials by other companies. I have had far too many "great" "wonderful" "the best hooklength ever" materials that quite frankly have be tripe and have hit the inside of my dustbin after the first time I have used them I'm the same, although a few haven't even hit the Bankside before hitting the Bin. The strange one was Hybrid though. I tested it and tested it in the Shed on Bench Tests, and was about to use it on the Bank. Yet just before I did a Mate had a serious of Unexplained Breakages. I then started testing it in a small (shallow) pond by hand and discovered that it was prone to Breakage when it just lightly rubbed against any Surface, EVEN Weed, while wet. Korda recalled and replaced loads of the stuff, but I just won't use it since. The Clearwater Fluorocarbon I got for fishing very Clear Waters (!) where I thought that a Slightly stiffer Hooklink would be beneficial. It has a good amount of Stretch, which is handy for a Fluorocarbon. I actually use it for Surface Fishing (greased) as well. One that I have run out of at the moment that I normally keep in the Box is Kryston Multistrand, an excellent Hooklink that can really confuse the Carp, and some Anglers, on how/where to use it.

I nearly always use 15lb Mainline and 15lb Hooklink. When it comes to Hooklinks I have loads in my Tackle Box. Kryston Snakebite, Mantis, Mantis Gold, Merlin, SuperSilk, Amnesia, Carp-r-us Clearwater and Drennan Fly Leader are just some of them off the top of my head. The majority are 14 or 15lb. The knots in any set-up will always be the weakpoint as very few knots are 100%. I hate to say it but it is unlikely that 1 hooklink material will be suitable for all fishing, so it is better to have a few different types.

Tried and tested both, happy with both if used on right type of water (stock sizes). IMO the Withy Pool rig is the best, I've got total confidence in it coz its saved me from a blank a few times. In a week session my mate and I did on Bluebell a year back, the Withy Pool rig outfished all others, we were the only ones to catch consistently on the whole complex. Use it with boilies or fake corn/maize, its the dogs! I've since tied mine in a combi using a section of stiff IQ to give it further anti eject properties and help the hook push away from the lead. Get on it mate - seriously good. I dont go along with all this why use it over simple pop-up rigs talk. Its good so try it/what you got to loose? Good luck Sure that may be true. Think about this though; The Bent Hook rig was published, and then used by all and his dog, YET it was designed for Particular Fish on a Particular Water. The publishing and Recommending of the Bent Hook Rig was aimed at Big Fish, but because of its publishing Small Carp started appearing with Serious Mouth Damage, that was directly attributable to the Bent Hooks that were on the Market at the time. It was seen as the LEVELLER in Carp Fishing. It was never intended for use on EVERY Carp Water I'm not condoning its use in any way, but I used to use it on BIG FISH ONLY Waters where the Carp were doing the same thing that they were on Fox Pool, and the Mouth Damage was negligible (equal to ordinary hooks). Yet it used to damage the Mouthes of small Carp that would pick up the rig and so many waters Banned its use. I'm not saying that the Withy Pool rig is anywhere near as damaging as I have not seen its effects on Waters I fish as no-one has needed it. The main things that MY Friends and I change are the Hair Length, Rig Length etc. We have not found a Rig that has outfished the Withy Pool rig on the few occasions we have tried it. Next question, WHY do you think it is called the Withy Pool Rig? It was used first on Withy Pool to cover a PARTICULAR situation on a PARTICULAR Water, that they could not use because the Bent Hook rig was Banned. If you really want to get into Complicated rigs (and the Withy Pool rig is complicated) vs Standard Rigs have a read of the Complicated Rigs thread I started ages ago: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=9536&highlight=complicated+rigs

That may be true, but consider how close you could be fishing the Pop-up to the Bottom. If it is only popped up the Hook shank distance away from the bottom then you may be able to get the fish feeding comfortably on Freebies. Yet it you pop-up another centimetre or so then it may well be too far. It also depends on how heavy (quantity) you are baiting with Freebies, and what your free bait is. If you are using Particles as your free bait then a Pop-up may well be a waste of time anyway. PVA Bags are often fished with a Pop-up. The Hooklink and hookshank is hidden under the Bag Contents, that counts as freebies , it also means that the Hookbait is often the first thing the fish can take as it is on top of the pile. Remember this Rule in Carp Fishing: In Carp Fishing there are no Rules!