salokcinnodrog

Gardner critical mass, probably the best putty going £7.19 at Tackle shop prices Nash Total Mass £5.50 Plus its re-usable, so its not that expensive to rub some up and down the line. Plasticine can be used as a weight, but its not "heavy" compared to putty. Like I said in the above post, rub the hooklink in mud or clay

Don't think my fingers are that good either. Have Broken 2 fingers on each hand, but just the thought makes me cringe. I'm not sure, but supposedly the Double Barrelled crimps have to be used with a particular type of line, and not fluorocarbon as they do damage certain makes of line. Think it was whychwood who made the crimps and the line to suit. I suppose it makes for a tidier loop in shorter rigs, but I can't bring myself to do it.

These are the posts from the other Hook pulls thread. Kev, I totally understand and agree with what you are saying. Silt/Helicopter rigs are possibly more responsible for Hookpulls and hook straightening than In-line/Pendant lead arrangements. The angle of pull is not direct to the hook, but at an angle across the hook. A hookpoint that has not gone in to the depth of the bend is also more likely to pull than one that has gone all the way in. If a hookpoint is opening up and you are getting a hookpull, it is in most cases down to the Rig Arrangement and the fact that there is something wrong with the rig or even the feeding situation. The fact that most Anglers are fishing with Short Hooklinks and PVA Bags or Sticks is a contributory factor. Goblin, Would like to see some of the results of your Mates Hook checks, which are the best etc.

Think you will find its made from maize or corn Starch. Its dissolvable in water. Available from Early Learning Centre as a Kids "toy" cheaper than Tackle Shops, or a Mate if you have someone working in a Factory/warehouse environment Easier to use than PVA in certain situations, to mask the hookpoint to prevent weed fouling, to hold back hairs when casting.

Hookpulls should not be a major part of fishing, but every hookpull should be looked at carefully. Don't just blame the hook! The first thing to look at is the Rig Length, and the length of the hair. If you regularly have hookpulls then the chances are the hooklink and/or hair length is too short. Easy enough to change. Incidentally every time you hook a fish you should check where you have hooked it. If its hooked at the extremity of the lip then the rig length may need adjusting as well. If its at the back of the mouth or has scraped down the mouth then the rig is too long. Next thing is the baiting you are doing. If you are fishing just PVA Bags or over very little bait then the Carp moving may be behaving very warily near the Hook. The same effects can happen from fishing with Hi-Attract Baits over Pellets, either PVA Bagged or as a single bait over the pellets. The Hookbait is not similar to the Freebait, and so the Carp are wary of it. Simple answer, learn to use an effective Food Source bait, and fish effectively with it. Pre-bait and put it in regularly. Final thing that may cause Hookpulls; The Rod may be too stiff. Fishing with a 3lb+ TC rod may be pulling the hook out. Final point for you, I use Nailers, and in 5 years have had a total of 1 hookpull on them. The solution was to lengthen the Rig length. The thread has been duplicated in Tackle and Equipment, that Thread is currently locked

Shockleader to reel? Or Shockleader to Mainline? Try this sticky: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=25551 or this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=25357&highlight=shockleader+knot

Any elastic tied above the Hooklink and then attached to the Mainline could well be irresponsible fishing. Elastic has not got the Abrasion resistance of Mono's or Braids. The elastic (or Power Gum) leads to many cases of the Carp snapping it or it chafing on a snag. If you look at the Sticky at the top of the Rig Making section there are a couple of Extending Hooklinks that may well do the same effect

Definitely not No.1 as Fluorocarbon sinks. Don't get on very well with Double Strength, knots and confidence thing, I normally use Drennan Fly Leader in the Sub Surface Green. Sometimes resort to Fine Match type monos

Did it work, does it catch fish? Think you may need to study rig mechanics then. A double loop made from braid is not normally going to be as stiff as a single strand of Fluoro or mono. The fact that the Hair attached to the loop/ring is overhand knotted is not going to make any difference especially if the bait covers the knot. D-rigs were originally designed for bottom baits as well. No standard hair with that. Swimmer rigs were effective with Bottom Baits as well, its only the fact that a pop-up was used and set at a height from the bottom that made. In fact many Bottom bait rigs make good pop-up rigs and in cases vice versa. The only difference being the counterbalance to hold them down.

I know he fished it last year and had a couple out on zigs. He was fishing a swim on the Road bank the other week, and had a 30 as did Paul Forward.

No Mate, I haven't read it. Dave Lane was fishing it a couple of weeks ago when I was there, really nice bloke. Mind you he did see me and my mate walking round twice and climbing up and down trees looking for the Carp. We didn't disturb him while he was fishing until he was packing up, so maybe that was why he was free with his information, and we did offer some back. He's done well on there

I'll give you warning, its fishing very hard at the moment. The Carp were getting ready to spawn this week and were hanging around the shallows. Not eating anything, scared of zigs and avoiding Baited areas. This weather change will probably have stopped them spawning, and they aren't likely to get onto the munch until they have actually gotten that over and done with.

No arguments with what you are saying and yes it did make us both think, so its a definite valid point. Like you I think that the silicon on the shank will tell you if a rig has been blown and ejected. Yet what happens if, for example, the hookbait is taken and ejected within an hour of it being cast in. You receive no bleeps or other indication, yet the rig is still out there for another 6/7hours overnight. You have rig that will not be effectively fishing for those 6hours. I may not have the indication with the D-rig or sliding Rig ring, but I still have a rig that is working effectively until I reel in to check/change the bait. Incidentally I just got back from SWP and was playing with Rigs in the Bivvy and in the margins. Experimentation again . Now I rig I know as an effective Carp hooker, failed the Palm Test, did not hook with Bait on as it was dragged across the Palm. It passed the Flip over the thumb test. The same rig sat in the margins I picked up, the hook swivelled as I dropped the bait and caught me clean in the tip of the thumb drawing blood with a 3oz lead. Another Rig that I have used with a very clear Line aligner effect and a longish hair failed to even go in, and I was able to pick the rig up on the hookpoint without it being painful using a 3oz lead.

Cant say I fully agree with you on this one, you've not put me off using the blow back rig with ring. A blown rig would be no less effective IMO and no different from the position of the blown bait on a D ring (bait up near the eye). Look forward to your comeback lol, No problem Mate, each and every one to his own. The thing I think with a D-rig is it covers both types of feeding, sucking and blowing. Also even if the rig is ejected, then because the Ring on the D is free sliding, it is able to work if the bait has been blown back to the eye end of the loop. Yet with silicon on the shank it is unable to be reset. Note I diferentiate between using silicon and a sliding ring. A blowback rig with the free-sliding ring, imo, has the same potential as the D-rig So with a sucking fish and the Bait back near the eye, its sucked and moves back into position at the bend of the hook. With a fish that picks the bait up, being as the weight of the hooklink will be heavier than the bend again it will slide back into position. Then in either case on ejection it will be wherever it lands as the hook is ejected. I'm not saying that it will hook more fish, but if it is ejected then it will always be ready to hook, whereas a Blow-back with silicon may not.

Shame about that as I used to go into Carp Unlimited and Snags as much as possible for information.

Some Pop-up rigs on here: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

I can remember it being on the Halstead Ticket as they used to hold regular Matches on it that were often won with Netful of Skimmers or Bream. I did hear of a couple of Big Name Anglers fished it and had a very secret Fish that was larger than has been put on their website. Have seen some pictures of the Fish and I would put it at the claimed weight, just wasn't sure if the water was the right one. Long Walk, thats nothing, I used to fish Taverham Mills

weeley:P haha erm how about suffolk water park?? If you do I might see you there. Just remember thats its not an easy water either, but the Results are definitely there if you get things right. A blank may be the same result, but at least the quality of the fish is a definite plus. The Bailiffs reckon on at least 15 different 30lb+ Fish, and the smallest landed that I have seen was a high single. Its secure at night, there is very little litter, the Bailiffs, especially Trevor, are very clued up on the fish and the lake. Even better is you can have breakfast delivered to your swim.

Mud rubbed up and down the rig. Lead coils, the inner from Leadcore, coiled around the rig in places. Next point, always keep some putty in the Tackle box!

is that the sort you use to thread needles? Reckon that be the one

If you are inexperienced with Leadcore and have to buy ready Made then avoid the Korda ones! Also I would recommend avoid using Leadcore at all if you can get away without it. I have had some that the Lead has been pulling through the actual leadcore coating. If you must use it then a splice at either end works, and you don't need to Superglue it, but test it properly! Then the Hooklink swivel can be fished as loop to loop and the hooklink changed in seconds. Mainline end I make sure that the knot I tie is either Needle Knot if Unspliced or Uni Knot if it is spliced. Incidentally I fish it with Running Leads not as a SILT RIG (TO GIVE IT ITS REAL NAME). The same loop to loop can be done with a lead as well for Silt/Helicopter rigs The best Leadcore I have found for splicing is Gardner Plummet and the ESP

Are Hair Rigs for Maize/Sweetcorn and other Particles different from Boilie Rigs? The one thing I would do is use smaller hooks and as fine a Hooklink as I could safely get away with. A few grains of Maize or sweetcorn with a Piece of the Plastic Fantastic on the hair, or even just the Plastic one. Multiples Can be fished as a Stack rig with the Plastic Piece either at the end of the Hair or as the Bait underneath the Stop end Piece. You may even be able to Hook mount Sweetcorn if you are not fishing that far out. Good Grief, No hair, what is the world coming to? Gaz, Now 100 times please: Artificial

Yep, The Search Facility is wonderful, as is having a scan through some of the other posts! http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27522

Question for you using Blowback rigs. I know that there are times when you get "sussed", but every time you get sussed with a Hair rig then the rig is still suitable to catch. If you get sussed with a Blowback rig and have no indication, then you could have a rig that is no longer able to catch fish until you recast at next reeling in time. Doesn't that thought put you off using them? If the carp are suckers as opposed to pickers, surely as they inhale the bait, the blowback rig and bait is repositioned for the rig to work to its design ? Not if the original, as it was designed with a piece of Silicone on the Hook Shank, the hair won't go back into place. Even if its tied up with a Rig Ring on the shank once its been blown and ejected and possibly "marked" as dangerous then the Carp may totally leave that bait alone. Yet another fish comes in with a Standard Hair then that "blown" bait will still be effective if it gets picked/sucked up. The other thing about it, say you have a Carp, or even other fish, wave its tail fin hard, and the Bait gets moved, it could move up against the silicone and the rig could then be rendered useless. At least with an ordinary Hair rig the Bait would still be able to be taken in. If you used a D-rig, suitable for both Bottom and Pop-ups, then you have a rig that would work if the bait was sucked or picked up, or ejected and sucked later. By the way, I have been playing in the kitchen sink and working on that theory above. To get the suction I was using a Syringe, so although I could not get the power of a Carp Suck I did have something that did move the water, bait and hook in the vicinity of the rig. To simulate Pick-up feeding Carp i did resort to fingers around the bait, and with the silicon Blowback, the hook hang funny on pick up. To force the Bait and hook out over the finger thumb loop I used the syringe again, and didn't always get hook-ups! The D-rig had far better hooking properties after a rejected bait for sucking and picking up.

Does that mean you like my rig Didn't say I liked it , but its your pic and the rig you used. Therefore its worth putting it up in the Sticky Question for you using Blowback rigs. I know that there are times when you get "sussed", but every time you get sussed with a Hair rig then the rig is still suitable to catch. If you get sussed with a Blowback rig and have no indication, then you could have a rig that is no longer able to catch fish until you recast at next reeling in time. Doesn't that thought put you off using them?