salokcinnodrog

Go to the Sticky mentioned at the top of the Rig Tying section. If you look through the pics there are some showing a Line Aligner. The Hooklink material comes out of the front of the Tubing over the eye. The Tubing I usually use is either fine silicon tubing or Shrink Tube. Available from various Tackle Manufacturers, or from an Electronics Shop

Read the post below very carefully.

Im just sitting here trying to figure out how you can actually sew 10 - 20 odd maggots onto a polyball. I honestly just cant see it. It will be a new one on me when i get shown that, thats for sure Rig Foam is a lot easier than a Polyball

I like B175's for Pop-ups, or the Super Specialists. Another type of pattern I like is a Hook with an OUT TURNED Eye. This is for when I want the bait tight to the hook shank. I got some Kevin Nash Outpoint hooks ages ago (years) and I'm still running on the last few. On the few occasions I use a pop-up bait I like the hook actually on the lakebed (or rather the putty round the eye)

Use what works for you! I have moved this into Rig Tying section of the forum If you look in the Rig Tying sticky at the top of the section: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 there are pics of rigs tied on Braid, Amnesia, Coated Braids (which can be fished as a combi link, just strip some of the coating back near the hook) and some Combi Links. Also this link at the top of the section gives a link to various Animated knot tying: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=25551 I tend to stick to Braid or coated braid for nearly all of my fishing. It is what gives me confidence and it works for me, although I do have some combi links. If you type in Shockleader knot as a search I am sure that there is a diagram somewhere as I remember posting the pic myself! (probably on the thread Using a Shockleader safely)

Anything in this to suit? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=19962 You'll probably find full wedpages as well as e-mail addresses. If you go to the search page: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/search.php and search all terms on some of the venues that are mentioned you may also bring up a few threads

Tom Boulton and John Wilson had adjoining properties (or very close).

I'll try to find out about Lenwade, don't think I have anything new on it. There are loads of Lakes around Witchingham and Lenwade area that are/were privately owned or syndicate

I believe the theory was that when the Carp blew the bait out it slid up the ring towards the eye of the hook and the hook dropped into the fishes lip. First forerunner of the Blowback rigs that have been heavily publicised recently. It receives a decent breakdown in Rod Hutchinson's The Carp Strikes Back and also Tim Paisley's To Catch a Carp. I've debated the merits of it against the Blowback rigs with Tubing on the hookshank in the past. With a D-rig if the bait is blown out it can reset itself, yet with tubing you have an indication of your rig being sussed. The D-rig can be used for bottom baits as well as pop-ups, and it does work, YES I HAVE tried it and caught fish on it. Let me see if i've got this right, as i need to visualise things cause im awkward and fussy; When the Bait is blown out, the ring is pushed back against the eye of hte hook, this would assist in pushing the hook at a 90 degree angle, would it not, causing the hook to create a larger surface area and increase the chances of it catching the lip. Am i right? Sounds right, you've got me playing with rigs in my hand now trying to simulate how it works. The bait is blown back up the loop towards the eye. As it gets to the end of the loop (near the eye or extension back up the hooklink), the bait will drop down, thus pulling the eye end down and the hook will drop into the lip or cheek (dependant on the water "jet" from the Carp). The D-rig and the Sliding Hair rigs were the next step on from the standard Hair rig, and came about at the same time on Savay; Roger Smith with the D-Rig and Rod Hutchinson with the Sliding Hair. Both were in response to the Carp getting wary of the standard hair!

I believe the theory was that when the Carp blew the bait out it slid up the ring towards the eye of the hook and the hook dropped into the fishes lip. First forerunner of the Blowback rigs that have been heavily publicised recently. It receives a decent breakdown in Rod Hutchinson's The Carp Strikes Back and also Tim Paisley's To Catch a Carp. I've debated the merits of it against the Blowback rigs with Tubing on the hookshank in the past. With a D-rig if the bait is blown out it can reset itself, yet with tubing you have an indication of your rig being sussed. The D-rig can be used for bottom baits as well as pop-ups, and it does work, YES I HAVE tried it and caught fish on it.

No, but from the pic it looks pretty self-explanatory. Hook Knotless knotted on, rig ring on tag and "hair" tag end back through the eye of the hook. Got a feeling from looking at that pic I set it up as a Snowman, with a bottom bait on the hook end and then a tied on pop-up above it.

I might be mistaken or really stupid, But I'm certain that in the Rigs Sticky at the top of the Rig Tying section has a pic of a D-rig tied with Coated Braid. Which means it wasn't that far to search! Not that I'm 100% certain or anything, its just I remember taking that Rig off my rods after a session and putting the pics on the forum, exactly as I took it off the rod, complete with the lead wire wrapped around the Braid Coated Braid D-rig Easy way to tie your bait on: Using Mono, Hair Braid or Dental Floss for the hair create a loop, then tie a Uni Knot in the hair length keeping the loop for your bait and pull tight. Attach your bait into the Loop that you have created and then attach to the ring. Sorry its easier than the overhand or water knot of Selebs. There is absolutely no way that the bait can pull free from the loop unless you loosen it.

Changed, I knew about it! Unfortunately idiots and insults got some words added. I don't think that it makes any difference whether you use a Running Lead or Semi-Fixed/Bolt set-up. What matters is that you use the right Lead set-up for the lake you are fishing, or the situation you are in. I prefer to use Running Leads for all my Fishing (thats me personally), but at maximum distance when I need the last yard, and the bottom is silty or with a layer of leaf mould and there are no snags, I will use a Pop-up on a Helicopter set-up. The same Lead set-up works for bottom baits if the bottom is clear and gravel. Add weed into the equation and I will switch to either Pendant (either running or semi-fixed) lead, that again will work with either a Bottom Bait or pop-up. When I'm playing fish through weed at closer range then I'll use an Inline Lead if I want a Semi-Fixed set-up, again either type of bait. I actually prefer Running Leads for pop-ups where possible. The pop-up on my rigs, which I sit and play with carefully to get best hook penetration (see I know how to avoid the censor), I want to be as difficult to blow out, but I want to know when it has been played with by the carp. One or 2 bleeps on a Running lead and you know you have to take notice. That same one or 2 bleeps on a Semi-Fixed rig could be the Carp sussing you out. At the end of the day you have to take into account the Carp's behaviour and what is currently working. Incidentally its very rare I use pop-ups at all with a Food Source Bait. Why give the Carp the clue that it may be different from the free baits? Maybe perfectly Critically Balanced, but very rarely popped up.

Fish with what you are comfortable with. Even better if you can fish with what you catch fish on in UK, you are already confident on it (in theory). Take, and/or buy over there, particles and also boilies. Also have a word with the Lake Owners and try to get an honest answer on what the Carp are usually caught on. Some owners sell boilies on site (maybe a bit expensive though), but if you can find out who makes them you can get some before you go. If you want a large amount of pellets/particles andor boilies look up the Bait and Feed co. Type that in as a search and I've posted a web address in the past somewhere

Since I dropped the Leadcore I've been putting Mouse Droppings of putty up the line as well, and it does pin it down, and more importantly, if you fish with a Running Lead it can be safely used as a Shocker Backstop just above the tubing. In the event of a snap-off the putty DOES slide off the line (not always the tubing). Regarding your comment about the fish feeling line, I'm not going to argue about diameters or strains, but the fact that in nature very little is tight. We fish with Tight lines to the Lead, if a carp swims through it, it feels totally wrong to them. Multistrand, again, it may split and separate, but doesn't weed behave that way, from the root up, each small section splits off, never tight. We aren't pulling the fibres tight on Multistrand, we want it to separate rather than being tight. The only problem regarding Multistrand is its tendency to tangle. The more people who have this problem and so refuse to use it, I'm happy, Sorry, 'Cos I know how to avoid it Is that with your ideas? or would you care to expand on anything you think I'm wrong Nick

I take your point on this. Flourocarbon is a bit lively. I haven't had any problems with it so far but not been using it for long. I am interested in your approach to running rigs. Not really ever persevered with them enough for carp (only pike). Apart from greater bite indication and safety do you feel this gives you any other advantages. I'd be interested to get your thoughts on how you feel this rig worksand how you set it up. Is resistance an issue like for pike? Do you need heavier leads to make it work properly? How do the fish not simply reject before the hook is set? Does it work at longer range? etc etc Couple of threads that may interest: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26640 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27479

Welcome to the Forum Quite a post to start with, and one that is pretty much with my way of thinking. Like you I also go Sea Fishing as well, and only use a Leader for casting then. If i'm out for Bass at close range then I dispense with them, unless the water is snaggy, in which case I use a shorter "rubbing" leader My only disagreement is on use of Fluorocarbon Mainlines and my worry about their lack of Abrasion resistance and dislike of twist, any excess causing a fracture and line breakage. (thats my worry, not a personal attack). You have seen the result of the experiments I have done when using leadcore, all started after a couple of incidents at Suffolk water Park, and previous posts on other threads. I have a running lead with slack line method that works effectively, even in winter, when takes are at a premium, and also is safe near snags. Tangles can definitely be minimised or even avoided by the use of Pva, sensible rigs and the right lead set-ups for the fishing being done. It seems that, in many cases, that Magazines and Big Name Anglers and Tackle Manufacturers are advocating Leaders as a necessity to disguise/pin down the line near the lead. It really worries me that this practice is possibly putting fish at Greater risk because of components getting trapped on the leaders and unable to travel over the knot. I know we all check it happens on the bank in the event, but if a knot is jammed with weed or even mud, then this may not happen if a fish is trailing it in the water. What many forget, even members on here, is that at much over 40metres then the Tight Line will not be running through mid water. It naturally bows and droops down to the Lakebed from the rod tip in a gentle curve (dependant on how tight line you are able to get). It may stay higher in the water if using braid as you are able to stay tighter with braid (braid advocatees note), but even this will eventually run along the bottom of the lake (if a sinking braid). Going through the above again, and its relevant to Semi-Fixed Leads as well as Tight Lines, and again a point I have made before. The best way to keep lines away from midwater is to use Slack Lines with Running Leads. Now fish that same Lead set-up with a Tight Line. Because the line is tight you have created a SAFE Semi-Fixed Lead set-up. With a Large Run Ring in any event of a crack off with a Leader then unless the knot to your leader gets totally jammed with a big ball of weed then the Run Ring will pass over the knot. To make it even safer then TIE the lead onto the run ring with a length of 3or4lb line. To cast it with a Big Whack, then just put a tie over PVA throgh the Lead and onto the run ring

Rushes Lake If you go to the Sticky about Fisheries in France Mrs_Rusheslake and her husband (apologies I can't remember his name) have a post on there about their fishery. If you look or search for posts on Rushes Lake I'm sure you won't hear a bad word about the venue. Nick

Calm down! I highlighted the fact so that you and others don't turn it into a Death Rig. Preventing the beads from sliding would/could create that possibility. I questioned the need for a Silt set-up, nothing you have said above gives me the idea that its still 100% required. The Silt set-up, bomb on the end of the line was designed for where the hooklinkwas required to be held above the Silt, where the Lead, and some of the Line would be dragged into the silty bottom. From your post it seems that with an inch of leaf mould and weed a basic Pop-up on a pendant set-up would be all that is required. Indeed I also said it could or may improve your bite indication. Also have read your next post and quoted it, those "amazingly talented anglers", Would that be from magazines? Sorry, In which case take it with a pinch of salt. The Helicopter/Silt rig variations are not the be all and end all of fishing. Again Helicopter and Silt set-ups are the Current FASHION. In many cases anglers jump to them because they can't be bothered to think about other Safer and in many cases better options. A Running lead with a Slack line does not need Leadcore, and you can get away with using the Putty or Flying Backlead to pin the Line down.

First question, do you have to use a SILT Rig, (Its proper name)? For weed/silt that thin it may not prove an advantage. It also means that you have to have a Tight Line running through the swim to your end Tackle. Yes the Tubing can slip up the Line at times if the fish goes through a snag and it is forced free. Putty can/may trap the Beads on the line, jamming the beads in place, which may make the rig a Death Rig. Never ever attach a swivel above the tubing for the same reason. The helicopter set-ups also may weaken the line as you are playing the fish at an angle against the line. Another point is that Bomb-on the-end of the line set-ups can give minimal indications. Far better in many cases to use a Standard Pendant (Lead clip/running lead) set-up, and a pop-up rig at the end. Indeed I would avoid totally Bomb on the end of the line set-ups if there are any snags. The Fish can run too far before you get any indication at the rod end. If you look at the Sticky at the top of the section with Rigs, Lead set-ups etc, the Weedy Water Rig and Lead set-up can actually be used in Silty Waters as well.

If you have a look through the Sticky at the top of the French section on Fisheries in France, then it may be worth sticking the name in the search facility to see if any threads come up giving details of holidays and trips taken. I can save you some effort though as if you type in Rushes Lake you will come up with a large list of positives on threads from members who have been, unfortunately not me though

PLEASE check which section of the forum you post in. Thread moved from UK Rig tying into Bait and Bait making. http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=28584&highlight=quest+baits A quick search will find you at least 3 threads including the one above

The problem with Korda Hybrid are now solved. IMO korda hybrid is the best coated braid! Sure on that? Sorry but since it has been replaced my mate had the problems, it still goes "ping" for no apparent reason at times, lack of abrasion resistance on the slightest snag. I've seen him steam his knots, watch him tie up fresh rigs on the bank. When it comes to rigs he is more particular than me , it has to be absolutely perfect. I have watched him measuring and cutting his hooklink materials so that they are the exact length, then measuring his loop knots and his hair loop. Like I said reason enough for me to avoid it

Flipping heck! Goblin has kind of said it all. The Blood knot is one of the most dangerous and risky knots to tie with most braids, monos and fluorocarbons. It has a tendency to break at a low percentage of the line strength, as low as 50% or even less when under sudden strain. It is a strangulation knot and pulls in on itself causing sudden failure. For the fishes sake please learn to tie a safer knot, the palomar is 100% efficient, but I don't know how good it is with Hybrid. Learn to tie the Uni/Grinner or Palomar which are suitable for most braids etc.

Nothing recent on the forum, but this may help a bit: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=29583