salokcinnodrog

I've not been down for a couple of years now, although I do know of the occasional fish coming out, but the angler concerned was keeping very much to himself.

Its a pig to cast having a pop-up on a shank/bend mounted hair, and an eye mounted hair bottom bait. I think its called the one up one down rig I used to use it on a water where I could put the end tackle in by hand, and it did work. It worked and hooked a few fish where I had missed some takes on a simple knotless knot rig, but I think it may have worked due to keeping the hook(point) clear of the weed

Yeah i have a few tied up with braid but i always thought ring swivels would work better I'm never sure that swivels work particularly well as we use them in fishing. I don't think that there is a need to be so complicated most of the time, a basic standard pop-up rig will work. If you do need to use a 360, then you will have to use whatever weight it takes to get the hook to sit as you want it.

My thoughts as well. I avoid Korda and other Maggot rings for the same reason. I have removed a few posts, the follow-up comment made about opinions was frankly quite rude and insulting.

Oh, and don't think that Fox Arma mesh is crayfish proof . The little blighters will still cut through the stuff to get to whatever is inside.

A fair while ago Joe (Useph) started this very handy thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32920 A fair amount of the time I put my baits onto a double length of PVA cord or string, and then loop the PVA round the mainline/tubing and then put the tag ends and boilies through the loop. It holds it onto the line nicely with no knots. The tag ends then get used to create another loop which holds the hookbait in place. I then have a line of boilies down the length of the hooklink. Or just as easily I do a number of baits in a mesh, split the PVA down into a length and use the tag ends I have created to tie around the mainline/tubing, without pulling it tight so that the knot doesn't get left around the line. As for bags, I can get long or short ones, and either lick and stick or tie around the line with a double granny. Also make sure you get hold of decent PVA. I still use http://www.moscopva.net/ ; far better PVA than many tackle brands, and at a decent price, cheaper than Korda.

I don't necessarily use all the advice I've been told in the local tackle shop. I'm with James, if I want to provide some protection (more to the mainline than the fish), then I will use tubing. Everything I caught this winter has been on mainline straight through, with no tubing. I used to use tubing almost every time, but after seeing some of Moorsey's results on his plain straight through mainline I thought what the heck, I can convince myself its not needed. Not every piece of advice that you receive or hear of from Big Name anglers is the safest thing you can do, after all, I can think of a couple who advocate long lengths of leadcore. Have Fun reading this little lot: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=25587 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=39794

Me trying NOT to be sarcastic

No you aren't. It also goes green if you cover it with Kryston Greased Lightning 'Which Bloomin Mainline!': http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=28523 4 pages of ideas and opinions

Line cutting into fish is another load of rubbish spread by the tackle manufacturers. Do you use a leader when you fish zig rigs or floater fishing? I somehow think NOT. Plain straight through mono stands less chance of cutting fish than leadcore, and a leader in weed is an absolute danger that can risk fish beng tethered in the event of a break-off. You are adding another weak spot in your line, that of the knot joining the mainline to the leader, and under pressure is the first place that breaks. With a snapped off leader, if a fish is going round in the weed, it doesn't take much for the rubbish to build up and for the fish to become tethered. As for slack line, considering you were asking about line tension and bobbins on another thread (see I do read ), I know a fair bit about slack line fishing, and it only works effectively with a running lead, which to my mind can only be fished with a pendant lead, not an inline. You can even fish slack lines with a very heavy bobbin, but with the indicator at maximum drop, i.e. the weight does NOT come into play until the fish starts to take line. Note, I do say I use inlines in weed, but for that I resort to a tight line, and stay semi-fixed.

What bobbin would you suggest? Wouldn't want to use a leader in weed. In fact, I would try my hardest to avoid them altogether if possible. I wouldn't use a leader in a water with any weed or snags, and I would prefer NOT to use a lead clip that may or may not discharge the lead if it got caught up. Tie the lead on with a piece of fine line or attach it with a paperclip. The other thing is that a zipp shaped inline lead may also slide through the weed easily without snagging up, and with that fitted breakaway style will likely be very safe. Also can put the whole lot in a bag, hook, bait, hooklink and lead.

Are you looking for a coated or uncoated braid? For years I have stuck to Kryston braids for both, and use Merlin, Supernova, Mantis or Mantis Gold. None have failed, so I see no need to change, although I have recently been looking at Sufix/Gardner braids with a few ideas just in case.

I said this a very long time ago, as I refused to use leadcore, I was practicing the " Naked chod" as it seems to be known, whist most hadnt heard of it . I do not use a top bead, I have never found a reason to use one and I use the lightest leads possible and on small lakes I often use 1/2oz leads. I have been told by "experts"that it wont work!, well I must ONLY fish for suicidle carp. Do you do anything to stop the rig travelling up the line on your cast then beens as though no top bead? Or do you just let it go? Which could mean your rigs 30 - 40ft back from the lead by the time it hits the water Try doubling up a length of PVA string. Then pulling itself through a loop around the mainline. It will hold naked chod beads still. Or use a piece of dissolving foam to create the same effect.

Ian, I'm the same with tying loops on the bank, so tend to tie up a load of pop-ups at home with Sainsbury's basics floss, or even 4lb mono. In my case, it can be quicker to tie (or clip) on a fresh ready baited rig than tying baits on on the bank, so I have a few mega hard meshed hookbaits already on rigs in the rig bins. Tie a Uni knot loop at the end of the floss, and put your pop-up in it. Then with the 2 tag ends tie the pop-up on the bank to your rig ring with a couple of overhand knots, and then lighter blob the tag ends to stop them pulling free. There was another thread on it, http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=48557&highlight=bait+floss although since I wrote that, I have switched back to dental floss as I have been using rig rings and the like for my hairs on a snowman set-up, and floss tends to avoid the little blighters called crays who can cut mono with their claws The other thing I found with meshing baits and tying them on, is that the stocking mesh tends to offer better grip than the perfectly smooth skin of a standard pop-up

As Liam says, go the easy way with with a Pike Float fished next to the hooklink swivel. Or if you want there is a Fox Adjustable Zig Rig kit As for avoiding hooklink tangles with a long hooklink, you could always tie a PVA bag or stringer to the swivel, and nick the hook into the bottom corner of the bag. It doesn't even have to be floating baits either, but an active groundbait that constantly moves from bottom to top and Up and Down, or the floating baits that rise from the lakebed to the surface will give the same impression as your hookbait. It was mentioned in a magazine recently, but I've been doing it for years

I've got 2 rig bins and a rig wallet. The rig wallet contains pop-up rigs, which I can remember every single hook pattern and size, although it is pretty easy to remember B175 I try to keep my rigs as simple as possible, so it is normally a case of seeing D-rig on a size 8, and then what the hooklink is made from. I do have a few hinged pop-up rigs for very buoyant baits, but most are on stripped back coated braid. As for the 2 rig bins, they contain my standard rigs, either on braid coated and uncoated or combi-rigs. I gave up worrying about hook size, and use a size 6 for almost all of my bottom or snowman presentations. When I change a rig I just tie up a batch at any time the same as previous rigs. The rigs are all pretty much the same length as I don't think that rig length matters so much with running leads.

Might be the Domhoff knot? This might explain it: http://www.gofishing.co.uk/Angling-Times/Section/how-to/Coarse-fishing-advice/Fishing-Knots/How-to-tie-the-Domhoff-fishing-knot/

Glad you know I was teasing It does sound like snail if you aren't sure whats being said. Must confess I very rarely use hooks smaller than a size 4, although with pop-ups I do often use a D-rig on a size 8 straight shank hook. I do sometimes use a hinged rig set-up, normally 15lb Amnesia or Preston Reflo Powerline mono and I do a knotless knot then put the ring on the tag end, force that tag back through the eye to create the D, then lighter tag the end to stop it pulling out. For stiff rigs I go back to 15 or 20lb Amnesia, a 2 or 3 turn blood knot and then tie on a supple hair, although I have used it with a KK. I found with the KK and stiff hair I lost a few fish, so switched back to the supple hair, but I wasn't fishing over a bed of bait at the time. Would the Multi Rig hook set-up work for you? Can be used with a coated or uncoated braid.

Snail? Snell knot There is a Knot tying sticky with knot links at the header page of the forum, but this is the Snell knot direct: http://www.animatedknots.com/snell/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

You may also find mainline braids are abrasive and can cut as the weave is often made up including Kevlar fibres. I've used Kryston coated braids myself for a long time, what is available in USA?

Every fish has been well hooked in the bottom lip. Since using it I have had a total of 3 hookpulls and some of them could be down to me putting too mch pressure on to keep fish away from snags. I've also had to cut the hookshank on a couple it has been so well hooked in the bottom lip.

Hi Nick can you run me through the pluses of this set up and reasoning behind it in more detail ? Thanks Phil The idea behind it was I knew the lake I was moving onto was fairly well pressured and had seen a lot of anglers, therefore a 'basic' rig could possibly have been sussed, especially if I couldn't get much bait out near the hookbait. I wanted a rig that I could use with or without bait around it. I was pretty positive that most anglers fished either bottom baits or pop-ups, and didn't bother putting much bait around the hookbait. The rig ring was to give total movement to the bait up and down the shank. I wanted a longer hair for the reason of not much bait going in, and highly fished for fish may well have gotten used to short hairs. Longer hair with a rig ring, even with an 18mm bait missing, I think that the bait was 15mm or so from the hookshank, and the ring gives total movement, and can be sucked in without twisting around the shank which may happen with a shank tied hair. Is it an advantage? I seemed to pick up a lot of fish that weren't being caught regularly. I think on my first season on the lake out of 9 trips I had something in the region of 15 carp, compared to local anglers who had on average 10 carp, on more nights than I was fishing. More than anything, it was my rig; I had the advantage of I could tie on a fresh hair without having to cut the rig down as I would if I had used a knotless knot or tied the hair on to the eye and then covered it with rig tubing. edited due to error of image quote NG

I mention my rig earlier in the thread, about the sliding ring on the hook shank. I came up with the idea after thinking about a totally free hair rig, and remembering a Rob Maylin picture years ago with a revolving hair, but the hair was above the hook eye on a ring, and could slide from a distance set on the hooklink, basically a pop-up rig. What I wanted was a set-up that I could use with a bottom bait, a pop-up or a snowman (critically balanced), using the pop-up to counter the bottom bait or weight of the hook. Since then I have used this set up with a combi rig, a braided or coated and stripped braid hooklink and it has worked on a number of waters. I'm not sure if it is my own rig, but it is my adaptation; I don't recall seeing anyone else use the idea, although I have no doubt that someone will lay claim to it : The rig pictured did actually have a snowman set-up, but when I retrieved it with fish attached the bottom bait had come off.

I'd worked on roughly 1/3rd of the depth past the marker float to be hitting the spot next to the marker float, can't remember where I got that figure from, Rod Hutchinson maybe. It likely means that we are also ending up well short of snags as well I believe Gary alluded to it earlier, yet maybe could have extended his ideas a bit more on the coiled or straight out hooklink? I was wondering, a braided hooklink is less likely to fall 'straight' out as opposed to a coated, or even combi-rig. Would that 'extending' presentation be more helpful on confidence? It is something that Jim Gibbinson did with concertina'ing braided rigs with Superstiff, so that after it dissolved, the rig would continue extending or unfolding past the 'safety point'.

That Ripslider, he really did some experimentation to prove or disprove things A person sorely missed on the forum I don't know if you have seen December's Carpology? In the Under the Surface series with Dennis MacFetrich (? spelling), a cast that didn't hit the clip or wasn't feathered, the hooklink ended up tangled around his anti-tangle tubing, presentable, but definitely a tangle. It takes hitting the clip or feathering to make sure that it doesn't tangle when PVA free. Also in the same issue, something I've said before, if the hook and bait is the second item(s) to hit the lakebed after the lead, then the hooklink, no matter what the material may loop up from the lakebed unless weighted down. It may be enough to put you or the fish off, but if the hook and bait is held up a while with a piece of foam, will sink down more slowly and naturally, or may need putty to pull it down. Another method I use when tying my stringers, is to attach the stringer near the lead as well as the hook, but in the process, throwing a loop or 2 around the hooklink. So I have a line of boilies from lead to hook (and beyond), but the looped PVA with boilies attached will also pull the hooklink down. It also obviously helps reduce tangles, and doesn't appear to put the fish off