salokcinnodrog

This any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=34983

Try this: http://www.leevalleypark.org.uk/en/content/cms/leisure/angling/angling.aspx

If it is safe enough then I won't use anything, mainline straight through to the running lead and end tackle. However, most of the time I seem to end up fishing near snags, and have confidence in a length of tubing.

Fish with what you have confidence with! I nearly always use braid or combi links, because they suit my fishing, yet the simplest and easiest material to use is simply mono, the same as your mainline. Look at how the fish feed in your lakes, see what works best, and use whatever seems to provide the best hookholds in your fishing, whatever material. Somewhere in UK Carp Fishing a while ago there was a debate on the merits of fluoro or mono over braid (in a thread about putting the rig in PVA http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=50214), my view is that braid allows better movement when the fish picks up the hookbait, mono or fluoro can't extend any further on a pick up, or even suck if the fish suck food from a distance. Simply, don't confuse yourself with rigs, a simple knotless knotted rig will catch the vast majority of fish in the waters, and what appears to be inefficient with the palm or thumb test, can well be very efficient when the bait and rig is put into the fish in a way that they are happy to feed over. So get the feeding situation right, and the simplest basic rig will work If you don't get hookups, then the first thing to do is extend the rig or hair length.

In that case avoid the Korda stuff then Seriously as much as I dislike nearly all of the Korda stuff, because it is often "overpriced tat", they do have occsional items that suit your fishing. Get confident in whatever you use, be it John Roberts, Solar, Fox, Nash or whoever. I have used Kryston hooklinks since the 90's and see no reason to change. Hooks I use Gardner, Gamakatsu, Drennan and Carp-R-Us hooks when I can get hold of what I want. Tubing, rig bits is whoever makes what I need, again, Fox, Solar, John Roberts and other manufacturers all have their place in my box. The only Korda items I use at the moment are leads in certain shapes and sizes, simply cos I have them and they suited me when I was in the shop.

I'll be happy for you to post them on here (http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185) if you are happy with them :

The pop-up sits on top of the bottom bait, bit like a snowman really

Head back towards Norwich, Carp, Chub and Barbel in the Wensum. NACA have a few stretches that are worth joining for

I simply have mine with the hook laying on its side with the snowman baits sitting alongside it, the pop-up counterbalances the bottom bait (15mm p-u against 18mm bb)

Sliding helicopter set-ups (Chod) in weed although publicised as the "be all and end all" are not necessarily the best option either A normal pop-up rig can be fished on any type of presentation, be it helicopter, (fixed or sliding), pendant, (running or semi-fixed) or inline, whereas a chod rig is usually a sliding presentation to present a bait above (its original purpose) the silt. A paternostered set-up can be better, more indication at the rod end, less risk of snapping up (on a fish or otherwise), and less chance of leaving a tethered fish

Don't forget that you can counterbalance a pop-up so that it becomes critically balanced Or even overweight it. A pop-up is usually a bait presented above the lakebed, but a pop-up bait can be used on a rig on the lakebed or even in the silt. Even a zig rig is a pop-up or buoyant bait of some sort presented well above the lakebed. Bet that makes it as clear as mud

An honest answer here, and one that people overlook is Emmcee's point about the "thumb" and "palm" tests. There are many hookrigs that would fail both tests, yet work effectively and catch plenty of fish, and nicely hooked in the bottom lip. Years ago I first started using the D-rig for bottom and pop-up baits, it is effective with both. The hooks I have been using for a while have been curved shank hooks, in the picture on this thread http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 I think from memory was a Carp-r-Us Nailer or Centurion hook. That is not the only brand that will work, as the Gamakatsu GP204, the Gardner Muggas are similar patterns, and there are others. You've found a preference for you with an out turned eye hook, that does not make it less effective, just bear in mind that what works for you is not the same preference that everyone else has.

Don't make me think, thats not fair You're picking up on something that is true, although there is the miniscule possibility that a carp may just happen across the hooklink from the lead side, and "picks it up" with its mouth clamped over the lakebed as well, in that case even a running lead rig is at full extension with no hope of movement, yet with a non extended rig there is still the possibility of movement away.

I've used Kryston hooklink materials for years, starting with Silkworm, but after playing around found that I was more comfortable with Merlin, as I felt it to be less buoyant. Since then I've used Merlin, SuperNova, and Silkworm, and have found no need to change as they work for me, and I have faith in what works without changing. Do you currently have more than one then, ready to go?? If so, why is this? Oh and not forgetting I like SuperSilk as well which although white when brand new takes on the colour of the lakebed. Current Kryston hooklinks in the tackle box are the SuperNova and the Merlin. Simply a case of using what I think is required at the time, maybe for matching to the colour of the lakebed, or maybe because I feel like trying something different if I haven't been catching. There is that little bit of room for experimentation in my fishing, and if a rig is sat there for 24hours or so and I haven't caught I will check and/or change it. http://www.kryston.com/index.php Although Cobleyn says that the braids will float and loop up, to be honest that is actually a feature of many other hooklinks, (even monos) as they often sit in a loop from lead to hook unless weighted down, so the rubbing putty or even dirt or mud from the bankside is worthwhile if you are worried about it. A big advantage with braids is that they are supple, allowing plenty of movement both laterally and longitudinally. To make it simple, they can move from side to side as well as extend out, which to me is something I want. If you use a hooklink of any material that is fully extended then the hook can't move away from the lead if a fish sucks or picks up in its lips. Some fish may suck a bait, but if it doesn't move towards it, then becomes what may be termed a source of danger and the hookbait is left. If a fish attempts to pick up the bait, and it is fully extended, then it may simply pull the hookbait out of the mouth without any proper take. The other feature to stop tangling is another Kryston product called Superstiff, a pva style gel that you coat your hooklink with which under water dissolves and allows it to return to its supple state.

I've used Kryston hooklink materials for years, starting with Silkworm, but after playing around found that I was more comfortable with Merlin, as I felt it to be less buoyant. Since then I've used Merlin, SuperNova, and Silkworm, and have found no need to change as they work for me, and I have faith in what works without changing.

Is there anything on this that is of use? A Leader free Silt/Helicopter set-up that I designed years ago http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603

Elveden to Suffolk Water Park is roughly a 45minute drive, not sure of Elveden to Bluebell. I have no idea of the quality of fishing at Centre Parcs though.

Virginia Syndicate in on the Earith Carp Lakes site at Fen Drove, Earith. The actual syndicate has fishing on 4 lakes on the site, these being Pingrees, Pats Pool, Georges Water and Virginia Lake and its offshoot "Sub Lake" Reeds. I joined Virginia in 2004/2005, and for 2 years had some absolutely amazing fish from what is a beautiful water. The stock in the lake has fish from single figures all the way up to over 30lb, many of them beautiful commons, but with a good smattering of good looking mirrors, along with the occasional dinosaur The syndicate is secure the gates are locked every night. Virginia lake itself is split into two sections, Willow Walk end is open and almost circular and split from the other end by a spit separating the two sections, the industrial estate end is more covered with islands, silt patches, gravel bars and overhanging trees. The fish in this lake really do enjoy a good food source bait, they get onto it and stay on it as long as you are fishing it right. Pats Pool, Georges Water and Reeds I tended to use as my daytime stalking/floater fishing areas as I found that much of the action on Virginia came at night, even in the middle of winter. Ian Jones who runs it has set up a good website at: http://www.carp-lakes.co.uk/#/earith-carp-lakes/4527199542 and his phone number is on the website, but I'll put it here: contact Ian Jones, 07759199256 This site covers both of the syndicates and includes rules, joining fees, site map, a gallery and some of the latest catches. In addition I have a battle worn and faded map of the lake with many of the features marked in with depths around them.

I'd suggest this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=46616

To an extent yes, but the diameter of some braids in a lower strain could well cut the fishes mouth to ribbons. Most of the time if you get a break off, then as long as the lead or rig can release (and not all lead clips will do that) the fish is just trailing a short length of line and/or a hooklink. If you get a knot give way, it is usually the first knot that gives, that being the mainline to quicklink or swivel knot, result the fish just trailing a short hooklink. When there is NO WEIGHT on the line a fish can usually eject even a barbed hook with few problems

A fair few people use the same line for their hooklink as their mainline, with the standard mainline to hooklink swivel as the join. A Mono hooklink doesn't tangle as easily as a braided one. For the hair I use either hair braid from ESP being as I bought some years ago and still have some left, or 4lb mono. Unlike HNV I tie a blood or uni knot with it through the eye of the hook, and then silicon or shrink tubing over the eye/shank to hold it in place, and a Uni knot to attach the hook to the hooklink.

I live in Ipswich and fish in Hertfordshire and Essex, before that it was Cambridgeshire. Good Waters in Suffolk are few and far between A while ago, and almost definitely could do with updating a bit: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=46857

That may be difficult, Essex seems to be overstocked with carp anglers. Howver, have a look at CAPS, Sudbury and District, Chelmsford Angling and Kelvedon and District, all have afew waters and all are "easy" access clubs.

Slide across to the Essex Hertfordshire border and you have Holyfield Fishery near Waltham Abbey, that may suit.

Dave Lane at Suffolk Water Park caught a number of fish by feeding floaters and fishing a zig underneath them when they came to their "dead zone" against the rushes. Fox produce an adjustable Zig rig kit, although I haven't used one, I prefer a submerged float and a 30-60cm hooklink and then work it up the water rather than top down. If you prefer though with the adjustable zig you can go top down just by reeling in the line slightly. Is there anything in this of any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=34983