salokcinnodrog

Ok, what about a very short boil to harden the skin, then a dip in a glycerol solution, which stops enzymes denaturing, and prevents them from reacting with the water (hydrophobic?) Glycerol is also a by product of yeast fermentation, effectively part of brewing. Please note, I am just adding ideas in

Now this has really got me thinking, from CM's comments, some old Rod Hutchinson writings, Gary's playing around with yeast, thoughts on enzymes, my thinking and possibly why some Mainline baits could be so effective even though the main ingredients appear just to be a ball of breadcrumbs. I have known for years that baits that appear to be going off work very well, the sugars and enzymes creating a white fluff or pre- mould layer outside boilies, and smelly fermenting particles. Now Mainline are very very careful not to give away ingredients in their baits, but consider an active enzyme, a working yeast, and a base active liquid, be it corn steep, be it like Liquid Trigga, or even a Multimino type additive, you have what is essentially a bait that while apparently quite low in proteins, they are very easily processed and used. Grange CSL, Nutrabaits Trigga and some other baits do work best around 2 or 3 days out of the freezer, when that fluff is starting to appear, as far as I have ever thought, is that the enzymes were breaking it down, and effectively pre-digesting it.

Things I have been saying for a fair while myself. The leader is a weight in its own right, with the lead on, (helicopter) the rig can be ejected, without it, the Leadcore just 'folds' and trails. Rescued pendant Leadcore leaders I have found and recovered always seem to have lead still attached, the lead clip has not ejected the lead at all. I have also recovered a fair number of plastic baits overcast into trees, and also had the misfortune to find one where a bird had gotten hooked and died attached to plastic corn.

Aside from the fact in the video it is shown as a chod rig, the original D rig was back down the hooklink, and not just the back through the eye as it seems to be fished now, so this enlarged version is nothing too major... Could probably tie it without needing crimps as well!

John, really good write up. Same here as Gary If a water existed with only weeds as a food source, then the carp would suffer as some of the essential amino acids have to be provided for by animal proteins. Yes, carp have lived for thousands of years long before our interference, but our interference has improved growth rates. The Romans were using carp as a food source, which makes feeding them likely to have been going on for 2000 years. Why does a fish get wary of a bait? Regular catching, learning by association. Why does a bait that does not fulfil all dietary needs catch? The first requirement that has to be fulfilled is that of energy. As it happens, bread is high in carbohydrates, which are an energy source, and also a fairly quick transfer from digestion to energy. They require the energy to break down the proteins. In addition, baits/food sources can work together, basically like the particle and food boilie approach, and it does not have to be an individual anglers baits. The particles are providing the carbohydrates, and some easily digested fat sources as energy, and the boilie provides the minerals and useable proteins. Add into that, the sweet on the table. I can be totally full up, stuffed to the gills (sic!), but put a chocolate mint by my coffee after dinner and I will. Your bread could be providing that sweetie, or high visibility attraction.

Well at least the Europa Cup Final between Dnieper and Sevilla is worthy!

Tubing, it's full name Anti-Tangle tubing, designed to prevent tangles. I've never had a fish with a lifted scale from mono mainline, and I frequently fish without tubing. However I have had lifted scales and damaged flanks from leadcore. Mono slides over the fish, and its extremely rare to floater fish, or fish zig rigs with tubing. It is extremely rare that mono will damage fish like that. However tackle manufacturers have upped the claim of preventing damage, as they do with 'must drop the lead', in order to sell more tackle. I can also point you to fisheries where anglers fish miles to close to snags, where mono is used or maybe a Safezone type leader, but in such high strains that the fish are hauled through the snag damaging themselves in the process. Unless you are using tubing to protect the line with the end tackle fishing near weeds, rushes or gravel, I think there is no need to use tubing!

Like your thinking Suppose the fish are feeding on a bed of particles, and you put a pop-up out there. The pop-up level may actually be above the fishes feeding, and so ignored. The fish feeding in the silt, noses in, pop-up is above the carps feeding level, and again, ignored Or a pop-up at 2cms off the lakebed, a big fish approaching from above might not even recognise that the bait is off the bottom. My view with pop-ups, you need to know what type of silt, or lakebed you are fishing over, and to some extent, the depth of the silt. No point fishing a pop-up with the weight 2cms under the hook if the silt is 3cms deep, and smelly, thick and black. You need the pop-up to be above the silt and bottom debris. Also no good fishing a pop-up above the level the fish are feeding at.

Keep things as simple as possible, why confuse yourself? A plain basic rig, short hair, with the pop up tight to the hook shank, either knotless knotted or line aligned will work. If you make it from coated braid, and strip a section back the putty can be attached to the end of the strip, if you use plain braid, then a small power gum stop knot will hold the putty Or go to a D rig, both simple, the D being slightly harder to tie Or you can use pole anglers olivettes as your counterweight. This one, straight off my rods ages ago has some wire wrapped around it, just to make sure the hooklink doesn't loop up. If you do decide to go to that horrible 'chod rig', then remember that the lead can be well into the weed, while the hookbait is well outside it. Also it can give funny bites in weedy areas, possible hook pulls and occasional line breaks if naked

A lot of venues (mostly lakes) ban pike fishing between March and October with live or dead baiting, but you can lure fish. The reasoning behind this is that pike can suffer from low oxygen levels after a prolonged fight, and the stress can cause them to belly up and die. Rivers the pike tend to be returned into higher oxygenated water, due to the flow. Personally I save my piking from September onwards, unless I grab a lure session, which is not often. I do occasionally hook pike accidentally in the summer, usually when after perch where I may have been using a small livie for perch, or occasionally one snaffles a boilie or slug or a fish I'm retrieving. On returning I am as careful as I can possibly be, holding onto the fish until it has recovered properly and swims away of its own accord.

Easiest, and best! Only reason I use tubing is to protect the line, if I can get away without out tubing I will.

Ooh err Mrs.I hate leadcore and don't use the stuff except as a lead link. My helicopter rigs are a kind of naked set-up albeit with a bit of tubing and beads, and I prefer not to use bomb on end of line as I think you get funny bites, less indication and more hook pulls. Strangely enough I do prefer a high pop-up over smelly black weed laden rotten silt. Black sulphurous stuff I think the fish won't dig in to feed, but occasionally they may live or patrol around it, so this is where I use a bait that is high above the lakebed. The pop-up is fished as an attractor, provoke a take, and well above the smell. I reckon a specimen bream is anything above 9lb, but a double is the benchmark. Nazeing can do anyone's head in! Large water, can be noisy, sailing clubs, crayfish, a few fish and a number of pikies, foreigners who love their alcohol (on lagoons it is not often the anglers who leave empty cans and vodka bottles in the swim) and even dog walkers can be a pain in the butt.

Dacron does slip after getting wet, but I share your concern, hence my edit. Most braided material stop knots do in fact slip, whether it is the casting or getting wet.

Or try a lead link, basically a paternoster set-up where the lead is going to sink into the silt, but the hooklink with a light balanced bait is going to sit up. You can fish this with your choice of hooklink, mono, fluoro, braid, coated or uncoated, whichever you prefer. I would recommend a bottom bait that almost floats, I.e drilled out and foamed up in the hole, or even a wafter that only just sinks. The same lead set up works very well in weed You may want to play around with the hooklink and lead link length to get it right for your water. Also, it may be that the carp feed in the silt, not on it, you may need to find a way to get the hookbait at the level they feed at... Oh, and a quick edit, you may find a simple run ring works as well, and you wouldn't need to use the stop knot shown as per Del Ritchies original pic.

Go the other way round with a stiff hook end section. Nice D rig for the hook, then by connecting to braid an overhand knot on the stiff material, which you can position exactly, then uni/Grinner knot the braid through it. Like you, I do tend to have low pop-ups on the occasions I use them and do prefer stripped braid end as my putty point

Sometimes I fish with the shrink tube line aligned, and sometimes with the tube kicked over at an angle. I boil the kettle, and as it boils pull the shrink tubing into the angle I want over the steam, hook bend in one hand and hooklink material in the other. It may be I have asbestos hands, so I would recommend holding the hook bend with forceps as you do it, cos that is in the hot bit! For a line aligner there is no major worry about the angle, don't pull too tight and the angle is natural, but for that 'kicker' you will need to pull some tension into the hooklink, to get that kicked angle. To hold the angle on both better, I would also recommend dropping into some cold water after you have done it as well. You can put shrink tubing into hot water, but it doesn't shrink down as well as steam or boiling water, come to that nor does it work as well with a hot hair dryer.

Why not just strip the end section of coated braid and make a natural hinge out of the braid with the uncoated section above the hook? Add putty to the 'strip end'. I can't see any reason why what you are thinking wouldn't work, I have used the same sort of thing myself, a braided soft section, with a stiff end :ooh: but went back to the stripped section as it didn't seem to offer any advantage over the stripped end

I should actually put an add in on this as I know that Tiger Line gets very good reviews, but I can't afford to spend close on £70 on a spool of 1000metres, and so not used it The closest I actually got to a fluoro mainline was P-Line Floroclear, which is a fluoro coated mono from memory. I first (didn't) see it in a tub of water at 5Lakes, one of the early Carpin'on shows, so bought a couple of spools, and liked it as mainline and hooklink. Problem is that I think it is no longer easily available in the UK, so ended up importing it from USA E-bay sellers. Since then they seem to have twigged what it is worth, and upped the prices saying that $32.98 converts to £23 ish so you could probably get a couple of 600 yard spools of 15lb from Amazon

The fluoro's I've used are Gardner (mainline) and Sufix. Had a large stock of each as they keep better than mono's. Strangely enough for combi rigs I have switched back to Amnesia as I don't think laying on the lakebed a fluoro does make that much difference anyway, being on the lakebed, mixed in the bottom detritus; and as for fluorocarbon being invisible as a mainline, it shows up pretty well, as most get covered in plankton and particles rendering the index of being in water irrelevant in most cases, plus the lack of casting ability with it...

Ssshhh!

I found the Grinner knot didn't work well with fluorocarbons, blood knot is best for me, and Dave Chilton of Kryston has said this self same thing, as per the above link

That is my thinking as I have seen stiffer hook links, mono, coated braid and fluoro all sticking up from the swivel, which as they are stiff may well put the fish off feeding. Don't get me wrong as sticks, stiff twigs, or even lake weed all stick up, but they have a natural feel, which man made materials often don't. It's this sticking up which sees me going back to uncoated braids from the Kryston stable, be it Merlin, Supersilk, or Silkworm, which I do love, along with SuperNova. As for plain D rigs, yes, I do like them for pop-ups and bottom baits, and for my snowman baits.

Probably only on a clear gravel, clay or sandy lakebed. I see no point in using fluorocarbon on silty waters, the silt may well hide your normal hooklink, and why risk a 'scaring' loop of hooklink as it beds in near the hooklink swivel

As my current water is not particularly carp friendly, I've been exploring its pike potential with a few trips this year. Over 4 trips a mate and I have had some good fish, pike from 2 to 21lbs, normally a couple each trip, although we did manage a blank between us each day. The mate in question is the friend who managed to catch the twenty I lost last year, really into his fishing now, and enjoying it. Our first pike trip produced 3 to me, and Colin saved a blank with the small jack last knockings. My fish were two around 6lb, and a scrappy 16 with a missing pec. The next trip, Colin managed another couple of jacks, and again I had 3, topped with a 17. The 17 was a bit of a nightmare, not the fish, but the idiot dog walker who as I was unhooking it, got so close to the rod tip, moved it away from his face, and pulled the treble under my nail, more problems unhooking me than the pike. Unfortunately we both blanked next trip, but hey ho. A week later we were back at the venue, after a couple of casts I cast a whole joey mackeral, and within minutes, a finicky take with just a few bleeps and a nodding rod tip, no line pulled out the clip I hit into this beauty at 21lb The smile is very real, only my second ever pike over 20, worthy of a new PB at 21. Chuffed

Okey cokey, I've got nothing against helicopter rig bans especially in weedy or snaggy waters, where a naked misused (unreleasable) chod could result in a trailing line and weed etc, a leader knot could add to the problem as it only takes a tiny bit of weed to jam up over a knot preventing the rig, beads etc being able to come off the line. To me, far better than a lead clip, is a lead link, paternoster, with the lead possibly on a weaker link, which can break free if required. On casting the lead pulls everything behind it. Have a lookie here: http://www.carp.com/topic/1487-thick-weed-tactics/page-2