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He’s had another! 38lb 2oz common, equals his common PB

Not my catches, but my boys! He’s getting to grips with the local park lake 32lb 2oz mirror (new pb) 30lb 1oz mirror - a double take and 2 30s on the bank! one proud (and envious!) father!

What a session. Well done to the lad. Yesterday I went for a walk around a water on which I have a ticket starting in June. It's an awesome place, nearly 90 acres of water in a massive nature reserve/SSSI/SPA. A proper big pit with everything that you could hope to see..... bays, islands, snaggy margins, massive sheets of water that go on forever, a really impressive place. I actually fished this water ~25 years ago when I was completely out of my depth. I caught one carp, to this day one of the best I've caught. Would you believe it..... I walked into the swim I caught from all those years ago, and there were loads of gulls diving on a huge hatch. I persuaded the Mrs and kids to stop for 5 mins so I could check it out. Straight away I spotted the carp popping there heads out feeding on this hatch, well within casting distance too. All that water and I found them straight away. Couldn't believe it. Law of the sod dictates I'll not find another chance like that once my ticket starts but it certainly got the blood flowing ready for June!

And another… 14lb

I have a fleet of models, but these are mainly 1/10th rc rock crawlers here is my most recent one an FTX Trooper based on a toyota LC71, i have added lots of scale parts, great fun to drive

It was shot because animals were ingesting them I believe. Not sure how much it was actually happening but that was the reason I’m sure. dropping the lead with rotten bottoms has been a thing for decades. Well before mainstream angling channels brought it to the masses. Can imagine back in the 80s and early 90s they were uncoated too.

Definitely not the only one. grinds my gears lol

Greetings all - looking forward to a slightly more grown up place to talk about our simple past time than 'elsewhere'..

grown up !!!

I was speaking to some people in a fermented food group on faceache... There is this chef there doing his own meat and sausage stuff. He strongly adviced me not to use homemade culture but pointed me towards commercial bacteria cultures. with the homemades it is hard to get consistent results and also you risk food poisoning like salmonella and botulin. In particular when fermenting liver and fish. This one should be perfect: https://www.weschenfelder.co.uk/flora-italia-lc-25g-sachet.html Recipe from the chef: Mince fresh Mackerel thoroughly. Add: 8–10% salt 3–8% molasses or glucose Acidify immediately: lactic acid alone, or lactic + small amount citric acid until pH reaches ~4.0–4.2. Add Flora Italia LC at recommended dosage. Ferment in food-grade bucket/container at ~20–30 °C. Stir daily with clean utensil. When liquefied and sour-stable (typically 1–3 weeks), store cool/refrigerated. Can store for a year in the fridge. Warning. If it later develops: swelling pressure, mold, strong fecal/sewage odor, sharp sulfur gas, or pH rise, discard it.

Just found this on YouTube. Its made by Pallartrax who make the Stonze weights. 9lb of lead in 1 square metre???? Personally I hate the thought of dumping leads and avoid it if at all possible. Partially because I'm tight but also because I don't agree with leaving a toxic metal in the environment. I don't fish particularly weedy waters but I can see the argument to those that do. I used to fish lead clips but lost too many leads unnecessarily, watching fish shake their heads at the net and the lead flinging off at the last minute. I did try in-line drop-offs and the thought of losing a lead on every fish didn't sit well and I abandoned it. I've been using helicopters for at least 3 years and can't remember losing a lead on a metal clip. If the line does snap, the trace bead will pop off and ensure that a fish isn't trailing tackle.I did use some plastic C-clips for a while but lost too many leads needlessly and gave them up as a bad job. What is the consensus of opinion on this?

During Lockdown in 2020 I started getting back into my model building again. The majority of the aircraft are in 1:48, with a few 1:72 on separate shelf, and the ships are 1:600. Got a few more to do

I got into Lego over the 'winter' months, it can be very addictive though! Built a Lighthouse, Jaws boat - a right [censored] to do - and a couple of motorised cars that I modded it was good fun 👍 Now weather is warming up, that will be on hold for now. Do rember the Airfix kits, sure I had an Airfix saturn 5 rocket - should kept it!

How comes you dont think after years of dropped leads on a well known spot would feel like a gravel?

I'm casting my mind back like way back to the early 80s On the river Severn,there was a Swan Sanctuary run by a very,very vocal woman ,called if I remember correctly Dot Beeson ,or Beeston ,this particular lady caused angling a lot of problems over lead shot,hooks and line .. It was in all the publications ,at the time on TV and radio...I remember it well ..

Swans and ducks who eat stones which then grind the food in the crop I believe. The sizes limited were Number 8 shot up to 1oz, hence why Arlesey Bombs and Inline leads minimum weight is now 1.1oz. The other issue, is gun shot pellets, where lead is illegal around watercourses in those same sizes, and being phased out in all shotgun cartridges by 2029.

Interesting topic. I suggested years ago, a lot of these spots that everyone thinks are gravel, are most likely several hundred leads, from the time when it was fashionable to drop them. I thought the use of lead shot was banned in the 90's, why wasn't it the same for actual leads?? I'm sure alternatives could found, but would have an adverse effect on the environment at some point in manufacturing. When you consider the amount of pollution in our water ways and the coast, using a stone instead of a lead isn't really going to make a lot of difference.

Have to agree with the posts about the bloke behind 'Stonze', for @Golden Paws, I have not seen the video but 9lbs of lead in 1 square metre seems completly unbelieveable 😂 I have never used drop off leads, never will, cannot see, except for very snag ridden venues, why I would want to, maybe abroard might be justified? Wonder how we ever managed to land fish from weedy venues without them? Don't need to use the set up now, but remember back in the day, a tulip bead pushed over the hooklink swivel and the zip or dumpy lead swivel eye pushed over that was probablay the safest and so simple set up to use in weedy waters imo. As @greekskii said " I’d be more worried about the microplastics than the lead. "

This was driven by a certain Mr. Pomeroy! For anyone genuinely interested in lead-free weights, check these out: Weights – Evolve Tackle Not cheap at nearly 3 quid a pop but they do look decent.

Therein are many problems within business and fishing, the need to make money. I've had run-ins in the past with Simon Pomeroy over someone using a huge single hook for pike fishing. He doesn't like people disagreeing with him! I have tried Stonze, in various sizes and they cast like a bag of spanners, more wobble than Jessica Rabbit. For short range fishing, fine. For the potential camouflage aspect, fine. For any distance, yuck. Pushing Dropping the lead was another business invention, the more leads you drop, the more you sell... The original reason for the invention of the Lead Clip was the ease of removing the lead at the end of the session, or changing lead size during the session! It provided a way of being able to fish semi-fixed without attaching tubing over the hooklink swivel, to hold a lead bead in place. Instead of buying 2 items you bought 1. I hate dropping the lead; in most cases there is no need, even in weedy waters. I have fished very weedy waters, and never found the need to drop the lead. Personally I used to use Zipp (Distance) shaped 1oz to 3oz inline leads in weed, and had few problems. As long as the lead has no shoulder, no weed catching. Your hook catches more on the retrieve. Gawd, imagine trying to play a fish through weed with a Stonze inline or not! That's not to say I don't lose leads; a snap-off thanks to pike or swan swimming through the line, an occasional quick clip and the lead pinging off the clip during the fight. However, there is an environmental issue, both as @greekskii says from microplastics, and the amount of lead in various waters, lost or 'dumped' tackle. Dumping the lead is really decriminalised littering, pollution, I do recall something about fishing weights being lead was raised in the EU Parliament. We are not just thinking freshwater fishing here, we have to include sea fishing, both beach, boat and commercial as all use lead weights. There is potential for a ban, and even though we are no longer part of the European Union.

Correct 👆 The guy is trying to get lead banned for one reason only $$$$$$$$$$$$ I disagree with the unnecessary dumping of leads. However, I believe the safest rig is the one that lands the fish safely and efficiently, and on many waters I've fished dumping the lead plays a part in that.

Thanks, I do have a couple. I've doubled up on HMS Belfast in 1/600. I bought it myself, then a friend stayed over after I took him for a days pike fishing on the reservoir and for thanks gave me another Belfast. I ordered Prinz Eugen, and unintentionally picked 1/740 instead of 1/600. Rather than send it back I just bought the 'right' scale.

they look awesome, i have to admit to getting back into making and painting 40k stuff about a year ago. it is suprisingly calming to lose a few hours surrounded by glue and paint. not sure if it's appropriate here but this is an excellent charity that uses model kits for veterans as it can help with PTSD and gives a sense of belonging to a community again, if you ever find you have a kit spare (can happen i have heard) they pass them on to others. https://www.modelsforheroes.org.uk/

Although I hve purchased and been given a few more I'm paused on Bismarck at the moment.

Not watching it as above, he’s just out to make his money mainly. Does he go in to how long it takes a coated lead, which most are nowadays, takes to actually leach toxic metals in to the water to the extent they have an effect on the environment? The process of how that works? Or anything like that? I’d be more worried about the microplastics than the lead.

Just remember ,Poms ,Pomeroy has a vested monetary interest in this .. Same or similar ethos to the Gripz hooks,what I'm saying is either he's got a valid point ,or slightly worrying other people / anglers..just like he did over the gripz hooks ,which I've used ,caught on them ,and binned .. I use lead clips ,I don't use heavy leads max 2oz most places I go ,I rarely,if ever drop a lead .. Also when the Korda vids came out ,showing or pushing dropping leads ,again ...who profited from that ..? Those Stonze,and I've used em are not the best ...however other companies are making inroads to non toxic leads ..due to environmental concerns .. Dropping the lead ,to land a fish in weedy situations I understand ,but some drop leads willy nilly and there is only one person to blame for that.. Would I use pallatrax stuff again ,ans is no !

Quick update on the pond/fish. The covers are back on temporarily as the trees are blossoming and there's petals everywhere. On a more positive note, water temps are around 10C now and the koi are eating every day. Water quality is looking good and the fish are looking absolutely fantastic. You'd never guess they've been overwintering. I've been busy this week installing a 3 x 3m square parasol that can be erected to cover half the pond. It sees a lot of sun so my thinking is that A) it should help a little to prohibit algae and blanket weed growth, and B) it'll give the fish some shade at the height of summer. I have some bacteria boosters ready to go in when temps are 12+ and the bulb in the UV filter is being replaced again this month. I have some blanket weed treatment ready to go in case I need it but thus far it's not required. The bio filter is topped up with media. Shed loads of food in the garage. Basically all is ready for growing season.

Bait Making Base Mixes I've been trying to work out how to put down an idea of what ingredients do what, how they work and how there use affects the bait we use. The only way I can really come down to describe it I suppose is to give an idea of why we should feed Carp a good bait, then breakdown as best as I can the ingredients we could use in that bait. I will try to keep it as simple as possible, as the whole subject is one that can be really easy to get lost in. Unlike us, Carp feed by Nutritional Recognition. The theory behind this in Bait is that Carp take a food that provides all or most of the needs that they have at any time. Carp do not have the power of being able to think as we do. Humans feed by Hunger, and can choose to eat sensibly or not, Carp have to eat what is available, a choice of Natural Food or our bait. In theory the food that we should be providing for Carp contains Protein, Carbohydrates, Fats, Vitamins and Minerals in the correct proportions. Protein is used for Tissue Growth and repair, Fats and Carbohydrates are Energy Sources, and Vitamins and Minerals are used to "assist" and help the body develop and grow as it should. If you don't provide enough protein then the body cannot grow and develop. With not enough energy providing foods then there is a constant tiredness, not enough energy, but if you have too many energy providing foods then the risk of being overweight. Protein When it comes to Proteins, then there are various types of protein, and each protein is made up of a mix of Amino Acids. Carp have a basic requirement for 10 of the available Amino Acids, of the other 12 they can be synthesised from those present. Unfortunately 1 type of food does not provide all of the Essential Amino Acids, so we need to try to mix our Protein sources together, this can be a mix of Fishmeals, Meat Meals, Milk and Vegetable Proteins. However Protein is also unique in that as well as being used for Growth and repair it can also be used as an energy source. Fats Fats contain the elements Oxygen, Carbon and Hydrogen, and are used as a source of Energy, and also as an Insulator against the cold, being stored beneath the skin. Too much fat though and you become overweight, obese and at risk of Heart Disease. Fats come from different sources, Meats, Fish, and Vegetables. To put it simply, vegetable fats are normally the "lightest", (unsaturated), but because of this provide less energy than fats from Meats or Fish. Meat fats tend to be Saturated, giving rise to increased Cholesterol, which can lead to Health problems, so only a limited amount is required. Fish Fats are also Unsaturated, providing a source of Omega3. Carbohydrates I tend to think of Carbohydrates as "Instant" Energy sources, they are used faster than fats or proteins. Many Carbohydrates come from the various types of sugars which are found naturally, Fructose, Maltose, Sucrose etc. Vitamins and Minerals Vitamins and Minerals assist in the body working properly. Vitamins and minerals boost the immune system, support normal growth and development, and help cells and organs do their jobs. Bait Making Ingredients and Properties It is so easy to have an understanding of bait, and very easy to make a Good Bait that will continue to catch. As simple as going to the local Tackle Shop and picking up a bag of Boilie Mix, be that from Mainline, Nash, Nutrabaits, Tails up, but in doing that you may end up the same as the guy in the next door swim. If you fish the same as everyone else you will catch the same as everyone else. Yet just by having a knowledge of some of the reasons for why, or what is in a Base Mix, it can be possible to improve even a standard bagged mix. That little "tweak" can improve results immeasurably, and put you catching on your terms. While I break down the various ingredients I can only give a limited idea on each of them. There are many varieties of some ingredients, Full Fat, Defatted, Pre-digested, Low Temperature and even the Coarseness (mesh) of the product. The higher the number in mesh means the finer it has been ground. Just by changing a mesh from say 80mesh to 100mesh can change how a bait rolls totally. Proteins I've always believed in making a variety of protein sources in a bait. The more different type of protein sources, even just a variety of Fishmeals, then you cater for any shortages in Amino Acids that there may be. Fishmeals Fishmeals are in simple terms fish whole fish, fish bones or fish offal, that are processed, and dried to form a powder. There are various varieties available, by species or by type of processing. Just about any species of fish or shellfish can be used to produce Fishmeal. Most are in the region of 60-70% protein. In winter many fishmeals are supposed to lose their fish attraction and nutrition due to being hard to digest, but by making them only part of a bait a year round result can be achieved. In addition to that Carp do not require as much food in colder temperatures as they do in the warmer Summer time. This is a rough breakdown of probably the most commonly used Fishmeals in baits. White Fishmeal White fishmeal is actually normally coloured either a light brown or grey, and like a slightly heavy flour. Normally in the region of 60-70% protein, and an oil content of approximately 6%, although this can change dependant on what fish are used in its manufacture. It contains a high amount of lysine, one of the essential amino acids in addition to most of the other essential acids Provimi66 A high quality fishmeal, rich in amino acids, providing an excellent source of protein. The Protein content is close to 66% (hence its name ), and oil content of 8% LT94 A Norwegian Fish meal produced at low temperature, not meaning that it is suitable for low temperatures. This high quality meal is the genuine article where low temperature fishmeals are concerned. Produced from chilled raw fish, it is treated at low drying temperatures, maintaining more of the nutritional qualities and amino acids, making it far superior to most standard fishmeals. With an oil content of around 11% and a protein content of 72%+ (of which 94% is digestible). Standard Fishmeal A mix of Capelin, Herring and Blue whiting, this meal has a protein content of about 70% and a fat content of about 11%. Shrimp Meal A meal produced from either shrimp that is not suitable for Human consumption or culled shrimp. Normally either Sun dried or freeze dried and ground. It has been used in Trout and Salmon diets to actually improve Tissue pigment of the fish. If you use it in a bait then it is actually a buoyant meal, and can be used to make bait lighter and more buoyant. Too much and the bait will actually float, so it can be used in Hookbait to create Pop-ups. Salmon Meal Salmon meal normally comes from the various Alaskan Salmon species, and is approximately 70% protein 11% fat and provides avariety of amino acids. Sardine Meal Sardine meal is a heavier ingredient than many of the other fish meals, and has a protein content of approximately 68%, as well as slightly higher fat content. It may require an ingredient to "dry" it as it can roll awkwardly Meat Meals Meat and Bone Meal Meat and Bone meal is a product that contains approximately 50% protein and typically about 8-12% Fat. It has been used in the feed of various animals to improve the amino acid profile, but after the BSE problems is thought to have been responsible for the spread, so has been banned in many animal feeds. Beef Meal Beef in theory is the perfect protein source for humans as well as Carp, although Carp would struggle to utilise it as a whole product, but as a meal it can be used. The meal is rendered from the parts of cattle that are unsuitable for human consumption. Again used in Animal feeds to improve protein content. Liver powder Liver Powder has been used for many years in Carp baits, as an attractor, a rich source of proteins, vitamins and minerals, including iron. Liver Meal is a high protein specialty product manufactured from whole livers. These materials are processed under controlled time and temperature conditions and then dried to provide a fine meal product. The protein and fat content of this product provide for an exceptional source of energy and a real liver flavour. Liver Meal performs as an excellent ingredient in pet food formulas, as well as aquaculture feeds. Suggested usage levels of 1 to 3% will provide significant palatability increase Chicken meal A meal that is heavily used in the Pet food industry for its protein content, but it is not as high in proteins as some of the other meat meals available. Blood Meal Dried powdered meal again used in Animal feeds. A totally soluble meal high in proteins and lipids. Because of its solubility it is not suitable as the whole protein content, and is best mixed with other meals. Milk Proteins Milk Proteins can only be stored for a certain period of time before they start to go "off", so you don't want to bulk purchase if you aren't using a great deal of them. Calcium Caseinate Calcium Caseinate is a form of Casein manufactured from filtered milk, then treated with an alkaline salt to form powder. It is a fairly high in protein, approximately 89% and is a "heavy" ingredient. It is also a valuable source of Calcium. Sodium Caseinate Sodium Caseinate is the buoyant version of Casein, formed by using Sodium Hydroxide. Again high in protein, about 91% and containing 8 essential amino acids Casein The major protein in milk at about 90%. It is available in various meshes, so to get a consistent bait always use the same grade. Lactalbumin Lactalbumin is a milk protein obtained from the whey, again containing a mix of amino acids and high in protein. That is a basic breakdown of types of some of the Protein ingredients available for bait making. If you notice the Fishmeals and Meat meals also contain a quantity of fats, so theoretically you won't need to add any other fat sources. Birdfoods That is a fairly basic list of Birdfoods. Birdfoods are a useful ingredient in many Base Mixes, in addition to providing attraction they also have other useful properties in that some also bind the bait together, provide a mix of Vitamins and Minerals and are fairly high energy providers. Nectablend Nectablend is a mix of Egg yolk, biscuit, honey and other ingredients, mostly seeds. It is described as a rearing food for young birds, and a protein content of approximately 14%, fat content of 5% and many vitamins and minerals. CeDe CeDeis another egg food, containing egg yolk, hemp, biscuit and small seeds. It contains Carophyll, and is used as a Canary Rearer. Red Factor Red Factor is another Canary Priming Food, containing Soyabean, Oats, Maize, Oat Groats, Vegetable Oil, Wheat Gluten, Calcium Carbonate, Canthaxanthin, Dehydrated Red Chilli, Vitamins and Minerals. Its Nutritional Makeup is approximately Protein 21% Crude Fat 17% Crude Fibre 3% Salt 0.5% PTX PTX is an animal protein mix, with added honey and molasses. A protein content of approximately 32%. Robin Red Robin Red is a Haiths registered product. Almost every Bait supplier that sells it buys from Haiths! Spicy, BRIGHT Red and very attractive to Carp, although it has been fished out on some waters. Prosecto Insectivorous A blend of Dried Insects, honey, seeds and various oils. Red Band Pigeon Conditioner Probably more known as a Particle Mix, but can be ground down and used in Boilie Making. High in carbohydrate content, and is fortified with vitamins and minerals. All baits need ingredients to bind them, and probably the most basic is Semolina, although Wheat Gluten and Soya Flours can be used. Egg Albumen provides an amount of protein, but it can be used to reduce the boiling times of the mix, provides a tough outer skin on the bait and still keep the centre soft. There are other ingredients available either as a main ingredient or in addition to a basic Base mix as attractors or to replace any deficiencies. Whatever bait you come up with it will need a mix of Soluble products as well as "hard" ingredients to make it attractive and edible to the Carp. No matter how high the protein content of all the ingredients you use due to the binder in most cases this will drop as you mix the ingredients. It is really no use making a bait if it does not roll at all, and Carp can't really utilise a protein content of much above 50% to my thinking. YET!  When it comes to choosing a bait, choose a bait with some history of catching Carp. Spend some time selecting a bait to suit your needs, either by reading articles on the bait, looking through Bait Companies Brochures and catalogues or even getting on the phone to them.  When it comes to choosing a Bait then remember the difference in types, an Attractor Bait, Food Source Baits, and Hi-Attract/Overflavored Hi Viz baits.  Attractor baits are best used in limited quantities, maybe as few as 1 or 2 around the hookbait. They may have a limited life in terms of feeding and catching of as little as hours. They may attract Carp into the swim, then due to their limited Nutritional Value they may cease to work after a period of time. You then have the Hi-Attract Overflavoured and Hi-Viz Baits. These baits are designed usually to be hookbait only, to get the Carp to be inquisitive, to try it. Food Source baits are long term baits, they are balanced Food Source or Nutritional Baits. They become a Food Source that the Carp will actively search for to provide their Nutrition, this bait will provide Protein, Fats, Carbohydrates and Vitamins and Minerals. To enjoy the best results on them then Pre-bait with them, and put as much in as possible when you leave. It may even be worth with fishing with limited amount of bait in the swim at a time. The pre-baiting is to build up the Carps confidence in the Food. If you hook a Carp on the Bait first time you use it then it may stop eating it. Once you have chosen a Bait, then give it a fair trial. It may not catch immediately, but if it is a viable Food Source then it will, or is very likely to start to catch, if it is fished properly. Try to use a GOOD quality base mix with Natural Nutrition. These ingredients will provide Natural Attraction to the Bait. Only Use Fresh Bait, Dry mixes have a Shelf Life. The recommended life for a Fishmeal mix is 6months, even less if you have Milk Protein Ingredients. It is best to make up as much as possible with Fresh Ingredients, including eggs, then split it down to smaller quantities and freeze it. It is also best NOT to Refreeze after a session any leftover bait. This leftover bait can be put into the lake or river. It is your pre-baiting for the next trip. Any bait the Carp find that they don't get hooked over will only increase their confidence in the Bait as a Food Source. This will only work if the bait is a long term valid food source rather than just a high attract bait. Home Mod Area Offline Posts Bait Making Ingredi