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Showing content with the highest reputation on 23/06/20 in all areas

  1. I have found that putty on mono or fluorocarbon hooklink materials can be a pain to make stick, especially bigger lumps. It will stick to braid, as long as you work it into the material, and it will hold around any knot or on tubing or around a swivel. It is ok to mould around shrink or silicon tubing over the eye of a hook, like on a Ronnie rig. I used mouse dropping pieces on a black Amnesia boom to keep it flat, even after a year or two in the rig bin (I have a few booms still tied), it would slide quite easily. As much as I like putty for exact balancing or overweighting, it has limitations; especially since you can't use it in waters with crayfish in as the little gits actually sit picking it off. My preferences are for weighting down are tungsten beads, olivettes or if it won't damage the line, split shot.
    2 points
  2. Removed a washer and the line lay is now spot on. Cheers lads, even converted them to quick drag by taking the spring out the spool caps šŸ¤£šŸ¤£
    1 point
  3. Golden Paws

    Fluorocarbon Mainlines

    They say it's not a fool who makes a mistake but one who repeats it and so I must be right up there! I bought some X-line several years ago as I was told it was the best one out there. It sinks well (double the density of water) and is near invisible in water (unless you have it coming straight off the bottom and in bright conditions it looks like Darth Vader's light sabre!) I got fed up with the constant coiling of the stuff and it casts like a bag of spanners. I got rid of it and went back to mono (Gardner GT-HD like you which I really rate.) A few years back I bought some Fox Trans Kharki Illusion to use as a leader (about 30 foot) and although it was pretty good, I didn't like the knot on the cast or going through the rings whilst playing a fish. During the lock down and with too much time on my hands I revisited Fluorocarbon and was seduced by Berkley Connect CF600. It appeared fairly limp and claimed to iron out some of the inherent problems of Fluoro (stiffness and coiling issues.) I should have known better. I spooled it up and immediately the stuff started leaping off the spool. I managed to get it in a line clip and hoped that it would behave better on the bank. Wrong! The stuff was unruly and several times I had massive bird nest on a cast mid flight and I was only casting 40 yards. My advice, Fluorocarbon - give it a wide berth. If you are worried about the line behind the trace rising up, I've borrowed a tip from Martin Bowler and put on some matchmans olivettes on the line and they can be slid up and down at will and will easily pop off if a fish goes through weed.
    1 point
  4. Bedworth Iā€™m thinking about is Cambridge beds borders lol i used to use a company called Coventry carp leads
    1 point
  5. I'm using size 4s maybe I need proper shark hooks, they aren't small eyes either, maybe the extreme is just too extreme, will keep having a play though, maybe the non extreme will be better to use, or I can find another use for it, I'm not buying anything else šŸ˜‚ I already have a few chod filaments and fluoros šŸ˜³ maybe next time šŸ˜ That being said the cam h20 that's in the hydrolink is lovely to use just needs bending amd shaping into place,
    1 point
  6. Iā€™m intrigued with this version of this rig because I can see potential for a much safer 360, defo a good idea with adjustments.
    1 point
  7. yonny

    Fluorocarbon Mainlines

    I personally am not a fan of the low stretch lines. Low stretch is achieved through pre-stretching. Pre-stretching is great for feeling the drop and for distance casting but you sacrifice abrasion resistance which, when you fish very weedy waters like me, is probs the most important characteristic in a line. I would stick with the GT-HD tbh. It's a great line for what you're after. It's better than the Touchdown imo.
    1 point
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