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Showing content with the highest reputation on 22/08/18 in all areas

  1. greekskii

    Rig foam

    not recommended... but when you've ran out of food and were meant to be home 3 days ago but it looks so good for a bite then this box will see you through another 2 nights
    4 points
  2. salokcinnodrog

    Cheap reel

    Baitrunner is Shimano's registered name, it is a free spool system. A reel with a rear drag turned down to minimum and anti-reverse on can become a free spool, Abu Cardinal style, or even Fighting Drag. Daiwa have Bite'n'Run, other makes have their own brand name. Pricewise you have got me stumped, I would be going Shimano ST range, which are about Β£50.
    2 points
  3. And I bet you've kept hold of all of them...….. I've always used white ones, just for the visual aspect..... Good point mate.... Blimey , the LED' s on my old Fox alarms, no need for iso's or head torch most of the time.... I have to half cover them with leccy tape, they are so bright when my eyes have adjusted to night vision... Jeeze, if two went off together, I'd probably get a fake tan...……..πŸ™‚
    2 points
  4. cyborx

    PVA bags?

    like most methods you will find that no two anglers will use pva in exactly the same way, i personally use the Fox Rapide solid bag system. the bag is first layered with a nut based flour such as peanut/almond flour and the lead and hook dipped in the same, lower the hookbait in and tap it down with the lead, add a small layer of fine pellets and lay the lead on top then top up the bag with pellets, crumb or whatever your choice of bait. gently ease your lead up in the bag till the A/T sleeve is just poking up then seal the bag, fold down bottom corners and stick, job done. i use a 2.75 T/C rod with a 2.5oz lead and this casts quite nicely out to C75yds. heres how its done, just F/F to 2:18 to skip the jargon
    2 points
  5. cyborx

    Rig foam

    Just gotta buy a Β£1's worth of white ones now bud just remember to keep em away from moisture, bit of damp and they ruined
    2 points
  6. I have the muddy waters/cygnet bobbins. A white ptfe β€˜old skool’ design weighing 3g, the black ones weighing 2g and white dumpy heads weighing 7g. Between them I can cover off most situations in my fishing. I tend to fish very slack lines where the lighter bobbins come in handy as they can be set slightly instead of completely limp. The light bobbins all come in handy when fishing tight to snags with tight lines. I want the last 5/6ft of my leader pinned down on the deck but my line still tight after that. With a heavier bobbin this is hard to control whereas a lighter one the line is tensioned directly from the spool with the bobbins just ever so slightly tensioning it any further. The 7g dumpy leads come in to play when it’s mega windy or I’m using heavy leads but they are rarely used. The 3g heads are normally on with the 2g heads used when fishing very short range with slack lines (or I fancy being a tart and using them)
    2 points
  7. Not only that, but they look pretty πŸ˜‰
    2 points
  8. TnCarper

    PVA bags?

    PVA bags are the main reason I'm moving up to 3Ib tc. That, and to have a bit more distance at my disposal.
    2 points
  9. Daveyyyyyyyyyyyy

    Rig foam

    Ok so i put up a thread last week about some pva nuggets ( bio degradable corn starch packing peanuts ) I bought ( won) off eBay ..this box cost me 8 quid in total I won the box full for Β£1 .( lucky I know ) with 7 quid postage ..they arrived today and I decided to test them against fox high risers and gardner colured rig foam .... All 3 performed as follows Fox 10 secs Gardner 13 secs My eBay ones 12 seconds Now bearing on mind my bath was still quite warm so times would probably be different on the pond weather dependent .but my main objective was achieved knowing that I can now fish with the ones I bought safe in the knowledge that they perform as good as the two other shop bought ones but for a fraction of the cost ..plus I won't be running out any time soon
    1 point
  10. I think my "passion" for isotopes comes from when I used to go night fishing years ago, without alarms. In those days, star lites had just come out, (the ones you snap and shake to get to light up), and they were a natural progression from lumps of breadflake on your line, and then fairy washing up liquid tops. A star lite was a luxury! Didn't have alarms, you just waited in the dark (or the light from a candle in a jam jar) to see your home made bobbin rise up. A star lite made it so much easier and it has naturally progressed to isotopes.
    1 point
  11. I think of the indicators I have used over the years, monkey climbers made out of old 35mm film cases, to Gardner bodies, to PTFE climbers on stainless needles with a ball top to prevent the indicator flying off. From those to original Fox Swingers, which I loved, as the sliding weight was, I think, more 'zero' under the buzzer, than the Mark.ll's. Then onto Fox Specialist hangars where I added some extra weight with some setting putty in the base, and put bath chains on them. After that I got some original Solar Quiverlocs, in red, white and green. I really did like the the original clips. After I finally killed them, and fancied an upgrade, I went for the short arm Solar Titaniums, again in those three colours. I must admit I don't like the Grip Clips, so put the IPRO heads on them, which I have found I can tighten right up. The Titaniums can be fished at drop, or as swingers or spring arm, even with the short arm which I prefer. As good as the long arms are, which are probably better, because I often fish as low as possible, that is why I have preference for short arms. The original Quiverlocs I found a bit too long at times. Isotopes, I do. At night I often sit watching the indicators, and sometimes with the buzzers off to keep myself to myself, so the isotopes mean I can see movement, even if the buzzers are on, sometimes a bit of movement can precede the sound. With tight lines I have the indicators level, you can see any movement. My indicators need to be able to be used with slack or tight lines, as I do prefer running leads, but can't always do that. Slack lines and running leads mean the indicator is down at 'maximum drop', or even resting on the ground in the case of the hangars. Tight lines means I can level my heads.
    1 point
  12. I must admit I'm going to have a quick peek myself next time I'm near a tackle shop.
    1 point
  13. I’m probably going to get some when the back pay comes through. 😬😎
    1 point
  14. I see they've bought out mini versions which look pretty cool!
    1 point
  15. I used to use the fox mk2 swingers and cant understand why I changed (probably didn't look cool enough) like stevo says you can change the weight to suit any style of fishing and they're a lot more stable in windy conditions
    1 point
  16. I use the old fox swingers,have done for years. From Zig fishing on bow string lines with the weight near the head to it pushed right back when I dabble in Pike,Catfish and Perch fishing. I luv how you can control the weight of your indicators to suit styles/weather conditions. They do look a bit old and big,but they do there job and that’s good enough for me. 😬😎
    1 point
  17. Isotopes I don't know about anyone else but I find them very handy. My indicator bodies are the older solar lite flo jobbies, the isotopes are housed inside different coloured bodies, red, yellow and green. At night I have all of my indicators level, so I can see which one has moved out of position if I miss the LED on my buzzer. Plus on a number of occasions both LED's on my buzzers have lit up at night on a take. The indicator confirms which one is moving
    1 point
  18. Same...…. Gonna give that running rig set up a go on the slack lining, after your post on the rotary mate. I was fishing locked up when the weed was thicker, but can get away with a bit of line being taken now on any clearer spots.....
    1 point
  19. Solar quiver lock for me, hangers for general short range to medium range work the springers for medium to long range. I got the presentation set a while back for peanuts, to my mind there hasn't been any better since, they cover every situation I find myself in. The hinged hockey sticks are a great purchase as I can really tighten down the springers for long range or if im fishing a far margin or snag, I do also have the swinger arms, but never felt the need to use them. Currently, I'm not using any kind of indicator at all as I'm fishing so close in. Generally, the further I fish the tighter I want my lines, there are exceptions of course as mentioned above, far margins, snags, weed etc.
    1 point
  20. Used Solar Quiver Locks for years, they were so versatile covering many situations. They were looking a bit tired, so I bought the Solar Titaniums, which are a more updated Quiver Lock, I really rate them, as I can fish my lines piano wire tight, right down to the other end of the scale being very slack. I bought the longer versions, as I think the shorter ones are more limited in function. Anyway, they do me fine.
    1 point
  21. I think a lot of people are more concerned about their bobbins looking good bankside than the reasons they are using those bobbins. I mainly use 2 types, a set of Fox slik bobbins in the main and a set of fox euro swingers for longer range stuff when I want to tension the line. Nothing fancy but they do the job I want them too
    1 point
  22. crusian

    Bayswater Essex

    Strewth ! , Bayeswater won't know what's hit it , bound to give up some whackers with your combined talents ! . 😁
    1 point
  23. yonny

    The weather and fishing.

    Autumn and winter are worlds apart imo. For autumn my baiting levels go through the roof. For winter they drop to almost nothing. Regards tactics stick to what you know/what you're confident in. Likewise. Every target fish I've ever caught bar 2 have been in Autumn. My fave time of year by far. Big fish time.
    1 point
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