kevtaylor Posted August 22, 2008 Report Posted August 22, 2008 with todays modern monofilaments and specific floater tackle, is th beachcaster rig really necessary? It holds the bait in place if theres a slight breeze - no constant re-casting! No good for windy conditions though IMO Quote
Guest fenboy Posted August 22, 2008 Report Posted August 22, 2008 whats to stop the hooklink sliding down to the float? Unlike others I dont see a need for a stop knot at all, I find that the link stops sliding once the bait touches the surface. Just decrease the line angle! Totally safe - totally free-running. Saw a guy whos mate had devised a disc and swivel for the looklink, the wind caught the disc and held the hooklink back on the cast - looked very good. You also dont need a float in shallow water or if casting onto the far bank - just make sure you use a weak breakaway link to the lead. I still prefer a controller float set-up - but if they are spooking from it the beachcaster is a good alternative. The stop knot is put on in such a way as that when the rig hits the water it pushes the rig over it but the tag ends stop it from going back over the knot towards the float ,the disc idea was to aid this either through the air or by creating more pressure when hitting the water to force it over the stop knot ,if the hooklenght is totally free running it would make it almost impossible to keep the hooklength off the water which is what the beachcaster rig is all about ,if fished correctly the bait should be on the surface but not any of the hooklenght . Quote
kevtaylor Posted August 22, 2008 Report Posted August 22, 2008 whats to stop the hooklink sliding down to the float? Unlike others I dont see a need for a stop knot at all, I find that the link stops sliding once the bait touches the surface. Just decrease the line angle! Totally safe - totally free-running. Saw a guy whos mate had devised a disc and swivel for the looklink, the wind caught the disc and held the hooklink back on the cast - looked very good. You also dont need a float in shallow water or if casting onto the far bank - just make sure you use a weak breakaway link to the lead. I still prefer a controller float set-up - but if they are spooking from it the beachcaster is a good alternative. The stop knot is put on in such a way as that when the rig hits the water it pushes the rig over it but the tag ends stop it from going back over the knot towards the float ,the disc idea was to aid this either through the air or by creating more pressure when hitting the water to force it over the stop knot ,if the hooklenght is totally free running it would make it almost impossible to keep the hooklength off the water which is what the beachcaster rig is all about ,if fished correctly the bait should be on the surface but not any of the hooklenght . I can assure you that we can get the rig to sit perfectly out of the water with the bait on the surface without the use of a stop of any kind. Thats me and my mate using a standard set-up and the guy and his mate using their disc. I really think its down to line angle, maybe you only need a stop if the angle is steep, shallow it a bit and the stop isnt required. Thats just our findings it probably wouldnt work for others for whatever reason. The stop clearly isnt a requirement for all - for we can achieve whats impossible in your eyes Oh and the disc is definately for holding the rig back on the cast, so you dont have to cast so high to get the separation. Quote
ouchthathurt Posted August 22, 2008 Report Posted August 22, 2008 with todays modern monofilaments and specific floater tackle, is th beachcaster rig really necessary? It holds the bait in place if theres a slight breeze - no constant re-casting! No good for windy conditions though IMO but surely if there is a slight breeze, the free offerings are going to drift away, making the static hookbait more obvoius to taking carp? surely if the free offerings are moving on the breeze, it would appear more natural to allow the hookbait to do the same? Quote
kevtaylor Posted August 22, 2008 Report Posted August 22, 2008 with todays modern monofilaments and specific floater tackle, is th beachcaster rig really necessary? It holds the bait in place if theres a slight breeze - no constant re-casting! No good for windy conditions though IMO but surely if there is a slight breeze, the free offerings are going to drift away, making the static hookbait more obvoius to taking carp? surely if the free offerings are moving on the breeze, it would appear more natural to allow the hookbait to do the same? Yeah your right - I didnt say I was a fan of the set-up I already said I prefer a controller. IMO beechcaster is only good when its flat calm and if the controller is spooking them. Was just trying to point out that it works without stops :roll: Quote
tmb1415 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Posted August 22, 2008 You can't have a weakpoint to the lead cause the main line runs to it does'nt it had a go at setting it up today what a mess i don't think 20 years ago i was fishing a lake 20 ft deep using a tree branch as a rod rest i was looking to get it to work about 5 rod lengths, could only get it working at 2 , gave up freelined a doggie drifting on the wind eventually had a 12.07, i think i,d fed about a kilo to the rest of the carp they were like pirranahs , but so frustrating on the cotroller and the piece of stick. Quote
salokcinnodrog Posted August 22, 2008 Report Posted August 22, 2008 whats to stop the hooklink sliding down to the float? The tension of the bait on the water and the angle of the line that you have down to the float If you are worried about it sliding down then as Kev has pointed out, a stop knot and a rubber bead above it will prevent the hooklink sliding down. Like I said you really need to get the depth right unless you can come up with a good sliding set-up. Quote
tmb1415 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Posted August 22, 2008 in 20ft of water i had to put the hooklink on after casting with a link swivel Quote
kevtaylor Posted August 26, 2008 Report Posted August 26, 2008 You can't have a weakpoint to the lead cause the main line runs to it does'nt it Of course you can - have a bead and swivel under the float and tie a weak bottom link and bomb to it. Quote
tmb1415 Posted August 26, 2008 Report Posted August 26, 2008 You can't have a weakpoint to the lead cause the main line runs to it does'nt it Of course you can - have a bead and swivel under the float and tie a weak bottom link and bomb to it. i can't see much point in abandoning leads at a £1 a chuck Quote
carpingod150 Posted August 27, 2008 Report Posted August 27, 2008 You can't have a weakpoint to the lead cause the main line runs to it does'nt it Of course you can - have a bead and swivel under the float and tie a weak bottom link and bomb to it. i can't see much point in abandoning leads at a £1 a chuck So you don't use lead clips then? Oh, and you can get leads for 1/2 that Quote
kevtaylor Posted August 27, 2008 Report Posted August 27, 2008 You can't have a weakpoint to the lead cause the main line runs to it does'nt it Of course you can - have a bead and swivel under the float and tie a weak bottom link and bomb to it. i can't see much point in abandoning leads at a £1 a chuck Generally with that stance on not wanting to loose your precious lead, I hope you dont fish weedy or snaggy waters coz your not putting the fish first. This is the attitude that gets fish tethered coz the sleeve on a safety clip has been pushed on too tight or even glued on. Change your mentality its a £1 lead for crist sake, if I asked you for a quid in exchange for a decent carp you'd accept no trouble. Until you've started ditching leads you'll never know how much difference it makes when playing and landing carp. I fish a safety clip set-up and have so far this year lost about 20 odd leads for 17 fish - but havn't lost any fish due to weed or snags and trust me if I would have kept the lead on I'm not sure I would have landed a few of those, a tiny price to pay IMO. Quote
bluebirdjones Posted August 27, 2008 Report Posted August 27, 2008 You can't have a weakpoint to the lead cause the main line runs to it does'nt it Of course you can - have a bead and swivel under the float and tie a weak bottom link and bomb to it. i can't see much point in abandoning leads at a £1 a chuck 'Franks Leads' work out at about 66p with postage. Quote
fishermanjoe Posted August 27, 2008 Report Posted August 27, 2008 You can't have a weakpoint to the lead cause the main line runs to it does'nt it Of course you can - have a bead and swivel under the float and tie a weak bottom link and bomb to it. i can't see much point in abandoning leads at a £1 a chuck 'Franks Leads' work out at about 66p with postage. special offers atm only 55p a lead:) Even cheaper carpioleads 30p a lead but have to pay postage so order lots more to save moeny Quote
tmb1415 Posted August 27, 2008 Report Posted August 27, 2008 You can't have a weakpoint to the lead cause the main line runs to it does'nt it Of course you can - have a bead and swivel under the float and tie a weak bottom link and bomb to it. i can't see much point in abandoning leads at a £1 a chuck 'Franks Leads' work out at about 66p with postage. special offers atm only 55p a lead:) Even cheaper carpioleads 30p a lead but have to pay postage so order lots more to save moeny Thanks for all the preaching guys i have lead clips but why would i use them they are ancient history to us modern carpers so why are you cavemen still using them? Quote
kevtaylor Posted August 27, 2008 Report Posted August 27, 2008 Thanks for all the preaching guys i have lead clips but why would i use them they are ancient history to us modern carpers so why are you cavemen still using them? Because if used with a heavy lead they also give added benefits that you'll know all about. I'll get back in my cave! Quote
tmb1415 Posted August 27, 2008 Report Posted August 27, 2008 Thanks for all the preaching guys i have lead clips but why would i use them they are ancient history to us modern carpers so why are you cavemen still using them? Because if used with a heavy lead they also give added benefits that you'll know all about. I'll get back in my cave! i fish running leads and no lead core i saw the danger 12 months before fisheries started banning it ,my weak link is the knot from hooklink to swivel , hope you will put the carps welfare first now chaps and fall in line behind the Kent carpers who are pioneering the bans or don't you read the posts on carp welfare. Quote
salokcinnodrog Posted August 27, 2008 Report Posted August 27, 2008 Thanks for all the preaching guys i have lead clips but why would i use them they are ancient history to us modern carpers so why are you cavemen still using them? Because if used with a heavy lead they also give added benefits that you'll know all about. I'll get back in my cave! i fish running leads and no lead core i saw the danger 12 months before fisheries started banning it ,my weak link is the knot from hooklink to swivel , hope you will put the carps welfare first now chaps and fall in line behind the Kent carpers who are pioneering the bans or don't you read the posts on carp welfare. If you wish to debate Lead Clips, then find a thread devoted to the Supposed Safety Clip like this one: https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=36335&highlight=lead+clips This thread is devoted to the Beachcaster set-up and will stay that way! Quote
tmb1415 Posted September 15, 2008 Report Posted September 15, 2008 finaly got the beachcaster to work , had 9.08 common . don't laugh ifell in as i landed it , and then had a 15.04 ghostie not bad as been as i did'nt know what i was doing Quote
happydave1 Posted September 17, 2008 Report Posted September 17, 2008 i used to use the beachcaster rig years ago, but i found it unnecessary, if the carp are partial to a flater, i just used a nice soft through actioned rod, (mine was an abu garcia delta 2lb test through action specimin rod designed for light carp and heavy tench work) 8-10lb mainline, the smallest controller i could get away with, (or a stick with a hole drilled in it and a bit of tubing threaded through, then the line to make a stick controller, then drennan doublestrength hooklength in 6-8lb. [b]these days with the fluro mainlines and hooklengths, its possible to make a near invisible controller set up [/b]if you use a soft actioned rod, sensibly light fluro line for the conditions, play the fish well, and build their confidence before introducing your hookbait. get them going for your mixers before casting. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but with florocarbon working on the same refractive index as/or similar to water, floro`s would only work as a sinking line under water and not as a surface line where the fish would be `looking up` and see the same shadow cast as a normal line. As i said i could be wrong, just got me thinking a bit and apologies for going off track a little bit Quote
tmb1415 Posted September 17, 2008 Report Posted September 17, 2008 i only use fluro as hooklink don't they sink? Quote
salokcinnodrog Posted September 17, 2008 Report Posted September 17, 2008 i only use fluro as hooklink don't they sink? You can grease the hooklink to make it float (mucilin or vaseline), although the last little bit near the hook you may want to sink anyway I do have a successful little rig/hook set-up that the line is held above the water near the hook with a controller or freeline set-up It was kind of featured in a ACF magazine article recently anyway , although I do it slightly differently Quote
chrispayne Posted September 18, 2008 Report Posted September 18, 2008 pain to net fish with this set up. Quote
hazzaywc Posted October 1, 2008 Report Posted October 1, 2008 the best thing about the beach caster is that the ducks stay well away from the hook Quote
adypaul Posted November 2, 2008 Report Posted November 2, 2008 My m8 and his brother in-law use the beachcaster on my local lake and hammer it as the carp get wise to normal controllers. There are many variations on this rig but this is the one that works for him. Here's his step by step guide on how he ties his beachcaster rig...... 1. Make a hair rig using 4 inches of your chosen material (he favours 12-15lb Kryston Silkworm) 2. Tie the hair rig on a small swivel (5 turn grinner) 3. Thread the hair rig onto your mainline 4. Next, thread an inline float onto your mainline ( he uses a Drennan Zeppler) 5. Then thread on a 6mm rubber bead and then tie on a swivel (5 turn grinner) 6. Onto the swivel tie on a 2inch piece of 1-2lb line (couple of granny knots) and then tie on a 2oz lead (couple of granny knots again) 7. Job done now your ready to cast out! this is the hard bit thats takes some practice........ 8. When you cast out, the lead has to be "punched up" in the air and out so that the distance of the lead takes the hooklink out to where you want it. 9. The rod is then placed it an upright position in a rest (beachcaster style) and the line tightened so the hookbait in just on the surface. 10. With the baitrunner on, the line is constantly kept tight by "tweaking" the baitrunner 11. The fun part.... when the baitrunner screams off or you see a fish take the bait, strike and the reel has to be wound down quickly until the lead and float are together with the hook (and fish). 12. Finally, you should be netting a nice carp! This rig is perfect to use in calm to slight breezy conditions. However, if it becomes too windy then your bait will get blown off the surface all the time and this rig will become useless!!!! This set-up really is devastating on hard fished waters where the carp are wary of surface baits because there is no line visable to the fish, just the bait! My m8 has been on at me for 3 years to try this rig, but due to a bad shoulder and having to stand up and constantly keep working to keep the line tight using the baitrunner spool i have had to decline in using it. I have however been next to him using a standard controller set-up and been totally anilated, so i can definatley vouch for it!!!! i get my own back when he fishes bottom baits only, but hey thats fishing! Anyway, happy angling!!!! Quote
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