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HELP PLEASE I NEED TO KNOW Beachcaster set-up


dickturpin

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I hope you can make sense of my child-like scrawlings.

 

beachcaster.jpg

 

Basically, you thread your hooklength on first, then a sliding float, Drennan Dumpy slider works OK, then tie a lead onto that. A couple of feet above the float tie a stop knot, so the hooklength will be on the other side to the lead and float. Cast out, then put your rod in a high rod rest and tighten up until all of your hooklength is off the water, and the bait is just touching the water.

 

Welcome by the way :wink:

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i used to use the beachcaster rig years ago, but i found it unnecessary, if the carp are partial to a flater, i just used a nice soft through actioned rod, (mine was an abu garcia delta 2lb test through action specimin rod designed for light carp and heavy tench work) 8-10lb mainline, the smallest controller i could get away with, (or a stick with a hole drilled in it and a bit of tubing threaded through, then the line to make a stick controller, then drennan doublestrength hooklength in 6-8lb. these days with the fluro mainlines and hooklengths, its possible to make a near invisible controller set up if you use a soft actioned rod, sensibly light fluro line for the conditions, play the fish well, and build their confidence before introducing your hookbait. get them going for your mixers before casting.

 

:roll:

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Guest fenboy
Personally i would avoid the beachcaster rig at all costs. It has been banned on quite a few waters (why i dont know, but it must be for safety reasons for the fish) and if you havent got the foggiest how to set one up, i would leave well alone.

 

Its better to be safe than sorry.

I have used this rig in the past and like most others if its set up correct then it is safe it should have a free running hooklength that rests on a stop knot ,the float is also free running so if you break off either below the float or above it the fish is only left with a hooklenght.

Tony is right when he says its been banned on a lot of waters ,including some i fish ,the reason was not fish safety but because it was such a sucsessful method ! .

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Isn't 2ft a bit close to the float, what do you attach the hooklink to i used to use a paternoster bead now i'd use a swivel , don't you have to put a stopknot above the float to stop tow and wave action taking it up to the hooklink stop knot? sorry if i'm being thick again :?

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when i used the rig, years back, it was very inaccurate to cast, quite fiddly and basically i found a simple controller set up just as effective.

 

:roll:

I agree , and if that fails i go to a piece of stick with a 3 inch hooklink , if that failed i'd go for a zig , if that fails igo for freelining with a stone and some freebies in a pva bag if that failed and ihad time i'd go for the stick with a braided hooklink this is after i've tried putting the bait on a hair and the hook, its another weapon in our armery and i'd like to be as proficient as i can be.Its hard for people to comment with any degree of authority on a rig they never used.
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I've used the Beachcaster set-up in the past, and simply used a Link swivel with bait and hook attached to it with about 15cms of mono and attached that after casting the float out. The bait and hook weight pulls the link down to the correct height, it is free running down the line (obviously (i think :? )).

 

If you are watching the bait you can see a take and know when to strike.

 

It has been banned on some waters for dangerous set-ups that don't come apart and on some because of its success.

 

It does have some shortcoming in that a sliding depth set-up can be difficult to arrange with a large float above the lead.

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Personally i would avoid the beachcaster rig at all costs. It has been banned on quite a few waters (why i dont know, but it must be for safety reasons for the fish) and if you havent got the foggiest how to set one up, i would leave well alone.

 

Its better to be safe than sorry.

I have used this rig in the past and like most others if its set up correct then it is safe it should have a free running hooklength that rests on a stop knot ,the float is also free running so if you break off either below the float or above it the fish is only left with a hooklenght.

Tony is right when he says its been banned on a lot of waters ,including some i fish ,the reason was not fish safety but because it was such a suc

 

sessful method ! .

 

 

it does'nt matter where you break off the fish can't be tethered ,think about it

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The main danger for breakages would be the force the hooklink hits the float hits the lead with ,i would incorporate beads to absorb some of the shock, i have had lots of big pike on float ledger rigs which are similer and i don't envisage too many problems.

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on my water a lot of the anglers were just using plastic rings off anything they could find, or plastic runrings, yet they found with heavy mono links, they were cutting into the plastic causing the line to fray or the ring to cut in two and snap, either way losing fish. others were using the ring pull of coke cans, which sheared the line regularly. i know it sounds stupid, but this is what was being done! :!:

 

:roll:

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whats to stop the hooklink sliding down to the float?

Unlike others I dont see a need for a stop knot at all, I find that the link stops sliding once the bait touches the surface. Just decrease the line angle! :wink:

 

Totally safe - totally free-running.

 

Saw a guy whos mate had devised a disc and swivel for the looklink, the wind caught the disc and held the hooklink back on the cast - looked very good. You also dont need a float in shallow water or if casting onto the far bank - just make sure you use a weak breakaway link to the lead. :wink:

 

I still prefer a controller float set-up - but if they are spooking from it the beachcaster is a good alternative. :wink:

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