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running rig = big carp


gagnaccarp

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 After watching numerous videos of carp using the lead to extract the hook by shaking their heads , i think I'm going to have a go this year at using running leads , fished on a slack line , i used this method long ago , as  there was not  much option , but not on a slack line ! i have often wondered how many times ive been done ! :confused:

 so , is it necessary to use the beads n bits  that the manufacturers are saying are vital for this method , or just have the lead running free to your swivel , obviously the plastic bits manufacturers are worried that we might not need their overpriced bits !

 sinking line , necessary ? i personally would like everything on the bottom

I also think that with this method it would be vital for your hook to be as sharp as it could possibly be , as you are not relying on the lead to do the job just the weight of the line and water resistance , also i would like my bait / freebies to be spread as i want good movement after the pick up (distance ) to the next gob full to set the hook !

 I do not expect to much publicity from the manufacturers , even if this is the best method of fishing ,  just imagine , not dropping the lead  ( couldn't find the shock n horror imoji )

 what say yee ?

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I like the running lead setup on some waters , but wouldn't dream of using it up Horseshoe where it can be very weedy . The last thing you need is the lead staying in one place as the fish moves off getting all weeded up & creating a second pivot point .

I've caught some good fish on running leads so the hooking potential is very good but I personally don't use light leads in conjunction with it 2 3/4 oz minimum as you want the lead to stay still on the pick up .

 

Will this be when your river fishing? Much of a current?

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no , I'm thinking of this for some of the large lakes I'm going to target ! , i have used it on some of the rivers ive fished , i try to go , when the  flow is low ,  although , i will try , when its high , :wink: ! but its usually a struggle even with heavy leads , so , when its high , i stay on my local dammed section !

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yep , it would be hard to fish slack lines in a river in the flow !, it would just create a large bow ,  when i fished a running rig on rivers in the flow , i always tightened up the slack , but out of the flow i did !

 well ,  i try to pin everything to the bottom , sorry for that !

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so , if i was fishing an area where the weed went out to around 20 meters ,  and i wanted  to fish say  50 meters  beyond  where the weed finished , do you reckon that would be safe ?

You can fish running leads that drop off so that would be my choice in the situation above if you were stuck on fishing running leads . Think they would work well in this situation you describe better than if casting into weedy area's where I wouldn't be convinced that the lead would eject, bringing the fish / lead into weed it should drop off on impact with the weed .

 

Also I've used running leads on some of the countries fastest rivers with no issues as you can't fish them slack obviously because of the current.

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have you ever fished washing line system on rivers to access opposite bankings under trees , I had a heron crash into it once , it went bonkers and shrieked like it was being murdered , it didn't get tangled , just startled it , and me

killed a pigeon years ago as it flew straight into my line & hung it self .
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From my experience you can fish slack lines with running rigs as I have done & caught . If you are going to fish slack then definitely don't use semi fixed leads as your relying on the fish moving away from you for indication.

At least with running leads even if the fish comes towards you on slack lines because the lead is left behind, when it eventually takes that slack up back to where the lead is your get indication when the lead moves .

Semi slack would be my setup .

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yes , I have often thought  , as I stand up ready to strike on those single or double beeps , but sit back down , "have I been had " and that was a carp ejecting my hook as it shot off shaking its head  !  , I think now when I look back  , that I'm more confident about not being done when I'm using a running rig !

 How many of the single or double beeps though are bream or a tench picking the bait up but not the hook ,where the lead would usually pull  from there mouths as they move off when using a fixed / semi fixed lead  , I often wind in at night to get some kip , which I'm not that bothered about as it rests my swim and prepare for first light !

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i always use a running rig on semi slack line.

i make it up like thus, on the mainline goes a tail rubber 1st then 3oz flat pear with tube intact, next large ring swivel of a size to slide fully up into the lead tube.

to the large ring i then attach my hook link with a kwik link and rubber, other than back lead and bait that is all that is on my line.

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I'm a running rig guy, its rare that I use in-line and even rarer I use lead clips. When using run rigs I just use the lead as a casting weight, unless dealing with tow or flow on a river where I'll up, it to hold bottom though if up streaming this isn't needed and can allow for a semi slack line.On weedy waters Iv experienced more problems with line than the lead arrangement, one example of this was on Abbey on PCF water, using drop off in-lines in solid bags, this lake has a carpet of weed with( viewed from the boat) tree/ mushrooms towers of weed ...I hooked a few that surfaced to the right or left of where the line was entering, no lead set up could stop these snaggings around these towers as it was down to the direction the fish took of in, luckily the were no obstructions on the bank so walking along it I managed to free the line and land the carp(s).

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I use running leads most of the time, undertow and current allowing.

I think bite indication is much better than a semi-fixed lead.

 

You can use the large ring on the swivel straight on the line, my only worry with that is that if that ring gets a scratch or nick in it, it may damage the line, hence my preference for a proper run ring.

 

If you are buying run rings, Solar, Fox and others all do them, most come in a kit complete with run ring, link and protective beads.

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thanks everyone , ! I think I'm nearly there now , I'm trying to go through every scenario !

I agree with every one of the pro-running set up posters for all the reasons They've mentioned .

 

I try to use as light a lead as possible usually 1.5 Oz or lighter

I see what Philip means by needing a heavier lead to keep the lead still on the take but I would just like to say that , on the take , a light lead bumps along the lake bed to a degree , helping with the hooking process and negating the need to actually physically strike .

 

It's something I picked up on from reading Moorsey's posts on here from a few years back , he's a strong believer in Running set ups with slack lines and , Gagna , you could do a lot worse than search some of his posts on here mate .

 

Imo Keith Moors = top angler . I could be wrong but I even recall him posting about confidentially using running rigs in weed .

 

I shall be searching for that one myself now lol

Edited by newmarket
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Out here we use something like this; it's a blade clevis for spinners and this is a small one. It's good to about 1.5 oz but for 3 oz leads we need the large ones or they shed on the cast. A bead goes between this and the rig knot as usual. It provides a nice slide and when the lead's snagged up sometimes the lead pops free saving your rig. After that happens the clevis has to be discarded as it will shed on the cast after. While it won't shed on the take (and I don't want that anyway) I like using them vs just running the line through the swivel on the lead.

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