shock leaders

[tatty]

hi all, im due to fish brasenose 2 in a couple of weeks and ive  read that its recommended to use to use shock leaders due to under water conditions. iv never used them before so do i use them straight through from my mainline to the lead or through to my usual lead core set up.

many thanks mark 

[Phil]

Check out the ready made leaders, nash diffusion etc.  Saves needing to faff about with knots etc.

[cyborx]

 

or through to my usual lead core set up.

 

:o

[tatty]

sorry did i say something funny cyborx

[cyborx]

sorry did i say something funny cyborx

 

no tatty, not funny at all.

i just go into shock when someone mentions lead core

[newmarket]

Im guessing he is assuming the leadcore IS your leader ?

[tatty]

but why would i want to use lead core as a shock leader

[newmarket]

I've no idea mate i use neither leaders nor leadcore so im clueless .

Cyber does have a very strange sense of humour though .

Just wait till yer birthday

[cyborx]

looks like i upset someone

 

it was the lead core statement is all. not meant to upset just cause a bit of a lift of the lips at the corner of the mouth like this

obviously sense of humor fail tho,, moving on

[tatty]

not really a humour  failure i asked for advice and got a sarky answer. its because of replies like this that i left the forum for three years, only returning yesterday.

maybe itll be another three years now

[Benjamin Perry]

what under water conditions? Its pretty clear so maybe they mean use leaders to pin the line down, but if lead core is banned then use a safe zone leader or something similar to get everything sitting on the lake bed, 2-3ft above your rig.

 

Do you think you will be casting 100 - 150 yrds? You may possibly want to use a leader in that respect, so say your using 12 line, then have a 20 ft leader 20-30lb which will ensure the line isnt getting hammered on the cast.

 

that make sense?

 

Ben

[tatty]

yeah it does but the leader is more for abrasion resistance than distance though

[Benjamin Perry]

So if you really want a shock leader use one, just make sure you tie it to your line or leadcore correctly so the lead can pass over the knot in the case of a breakoff.

 

cheers

[newmarket]

hi all, im due to fish brasenose 2 in a couple of weeks and ive read that its recommended to use to use shock leaders due to under water conditions. iv never used them before so do i use them straight through from my mainline to the lead or through to my usual lead core set up.

many thanks mark

Mark , this is in no way MY opinion at all but its the only thing i could see on the internet with regards shock leaders and leadcore .

 

It would appear that , yes , leadcore rightly or wrongly does get used as a shock leader .

Anyway here goes ;

http://northwestcarp.blogspot.co.uk/2008/12/leadcore-leader-carp-rigs.html?m=1

[dalthegooner]

Don't like sarky answers, or people with a sense of humour

 

See you in three years

 

 

 

 

 

With regards to a sensible answer I've got 50lb Arma-Kord on both my spod rod and marker rod and, touch wood, it's never let me down yet.

[buzzbomb]

Keep it civil please gentlemen.

[hawkman]

For distance, I've used 20lb mono in the past. For snag leaders I've used 45 lb quicksilver .This is also good in weed. For a general bullet proof , yet suttle and sinking leader of about 12ft , it's got to be 35 lb Seagaur Ace Hard . It's .47mm diameter I also use this for stiff booms. Give it a good stretch before you cast out.

For spodding and marker/ leading rods, I use The korda one , this is very robust and long lasting. Very reliable withstanding a lot of abuse.

Use the Mahin knot to join your leaders, it's easy to learn, very small and the tag ends face backwards as they exit through the rod rings. Hope I've been of some help.

Edited September 14, 2014 by hawkman

[newmarket]

For distance, I've used 20lb mono in the past. For snag leaders I've used 45 lb quicksilver .This is also good in weed. For a general bullet proof , yet suttle and sinking leader of about 12ft , it's got to be 35 lb Seagaur Ace Hard . It's .47mm diameter I also use this for stiff booms. Give it a good stretch before you cast out.

For spodding and marker/ leading rods, I use The korda one , this is very robust and long lasting. Very reliable withstanding a lot of abuse.

Use the Mahin knot to join your leaders, it's easy to learn, very small and the tag ends face backwards as they exit through the rod rings. Hope I've been of some help.

I've never used a leader , never been in a position where i felt i needed one tbh BUT i've often wondered what material i would use and more importantly how i would attach it and this post explains it all very nicely so many thanks Hawk

 

While we're on the subject of leaders i'm currently a fluorocarbon mainline user and although its all fine at the moment it IS a nightmare when its new as anyone who has respooled their reels with it will know .

 

One of the reasons i've never used a leader is that it is another knot/weak point on the line and i never wanted to risk a fish towing it around in the event of a snap off .

 

Are there any merits in the use of a short fluoro leader attached to mono mainline purely for camouflage purposes and sinking-near-to-the-business end properties ?

If so , how short could you go with the leader in order to bring the above reasons into play yet at the same time NEVER put a Carp at risk ANY risk ?

[hawkman]

The first thing to consider whilst deciding to use a leader is,Is it absolutely necessary. If you are not fishing at long range, upping the diameter of your mainline should be deemed a first option. If fishing in dense weed, a braid mainline is a well worthy and possibly the best option. This is due to its ' cutting through the weed capabilities ' , direct pull, bite indication etc.

I sometimes use 20lb Xline as a leader of about 6ft to 8ft . This is when using a helicopter rig in light weed in gin clear water. Obvious reasons being that it sinks like a brick and hides better than my mainline, and it's strong enough to take the strain of pull on the swivel whilst playing a fish. Sometimes I use a 3in leadcore leader so that the swivel can slide down and position itself onto that. When using an helicopter rig in weed, I use 3lb line to tie my lead on and korda no trace beads as fish safety is of paramount.

When respooling flourocarbon mainline, ensure that it goes on without any twist. It then needs a good good stretch . I go to the local fields early in the morning to avoid dog walkers. I take a rod, reel and my spools along with a Bivvy peg. I walk it out 100 yards or so , peg it down ,walk back and give it a big stretch. I the release it from the peg , walk back and wind in the limp line. I do this 3 times per spool. Hence the early morning lol. It's worth doing this excercise after each fishing trip for at least the first 3 times of use. Or when ever it starts misbehaving. I do it with mono mainline also as I do suffer from line twist from time to time. This excercise resets your line so to speak.

[dalthegooner]

I've never used a leader , never been in a position where i felt i needed one tbh BUT i've often wondered what material i would use and more importantly how i would attach it and this post explains it all very nicely so many thanks Hawk

 

While we're on the subject of leaders i'm currently a fluorocarbon mainline user and although its all fine at the moment it IS a nightmare when its new as anyone who has respooled their reels with it will know .

 

One of the reasons i've never used a leader is that it is another knot/weak point on the line and i never wanted to risk a fish towing it around in the event of a snap off .

 

Are there any merits in the use of a short fluoro leader attached to mono mainline purely for camouflage purposes and sinking-near-to-the-business end properties ?

If so , how short could you go with the leader in order to bring the above reasons into play yet at the same time NEVER put a Carp at risk ANY risk ?

If you're adding an additional knot to the line which has left your spool there is additional risk that it can snap, no matter what.

 

If you want to go down that route then you have to decide how big the additional risk is and if you are prepared to accept it.

 

If you decide to try it; I'd put on about 20 foot of fluoro. Should give you a nice big zone for feeding.

Edited September 14, 2014 by dalthegooner

[newmarket]

If you're adding an additional knot to the line which has left your spool there is additional risk that it can snap, no matter what.

 

If you want to go down that route then you have to decide how big the additional risk is and if you are prepared to accept it.

 

If you decide to try it; I'd put on about 20 foot of fluoro. Should give you a nice big zone for feeding.

Hi Dal , its only something i would consider trying if i decided to fish a different lake and i thought it was worth the risk .

 

At the moment i dont need a leader of any description and i tend to catch ok every time i go without exactly emptying the lake .

 

There is another lake on the complex that i MAY move onto one day . It has a bigger average stamp of fish (up to 40's) but , as i've posted before , 10ft deep and 9 ft of it weed so its something i'll need to get my head around before i do.

In the meantime there are a couple , maybe 3 x 30's in my current lake , at least one of which i want before i go anywhere

[salokcinnodrog]

My view, you only need a leader when casting to the max, absolute distance casting in weed free clear waters.

 

All leaders increase the risk of tethering fish, and create another weak spot in the line as on most occasions, that is where it breaks.

 

If there are any snags or weed etc, then use a mainline suitable for it. Accept you can't cast as far, and don't put fish at risk of tethering.