hawkman

I use 6ft lengths of Seaguar Ace Hard in 35lb .47mm diameter coupled with the Korda No Trace System. I join to my mainline with an Albtight knot and for straightening it out I stand on my lead and pull on my mainline, giving the leader a good stretch.

If you are catching tench and catching carp with what you deem strange hook holds , this could be a good thing. It seems to me by the snippets of info , that you are instantly hooking the fish as soon as the hook enters the mouth. I don't know you're full set up rig wise., but one thing for sure is you are hooking them. A rig I use , I use it purposefully for this very reason . I accidentally catch some very hard to catch, very sort after tench. As well as catching carp. Some hook hold s are in the top of the mouth . This is tench and carp. I use short stiff rigs with a small soft braid hinge, in conjunction with a size 6 mugga. Anglers have varied opinions on hook shapes , barbed and barbless. At the end of the day , our intentions as anglers are to impale these metal components in to our chosen quarry. Bent hooks were to serve a purpose, I used them myself at the time to good effect . Size 6 drennan lure hooks were my choice at the time. Hook holds were savage. Jim gibbinsons line aligner article was to explain the extra effectiveness that piercing rig tube had when the carp had the hook in its mouth . Thus making the rig more efficient.in making the hook turn into the bottom lip.Some 25 years later has stood the test of time.

I would say it's okay, if you added a lead release system. Obviously there's no adjustment, but if your using it for the same purpose every time then that's okay . I've used the Fox submerge in 45lb instead of lead core for over 12 months now. It's robust in the abrasion resistance department , and follows the contours of the lake bed nicely. I would have no quarms reverting back to lead core. Leadcore is as safe as the angler is sitting by the rods using it. In this I mean using it responsibly with proven safety systems and not using it in a snag fishing situation or long range casting where a crack off could occur. Korda have it covered in the safety department with their no trace system and the Heli Safe lead release . Costs a fair bit but what price do you put on the safety of the fish.

I use flouro-combi rigs for the majority of my angling. A good understanding of what you're fishing over is a must when using the larger diameter/ stiffer ones. I use in conjunction with a helicopter rig as it allows the rig to lay out better . It also allows that bit of extra movement if the rig gets picked up and dropped, aiding the all important resetting properties. Anti tangle, being less visible and most importantly the anti eject properties are three more reasons why it is my hooklength of choice.

I use a 4 turn half blood knot. Care is required when bedding down to avoid kinking. I used to use the tucked version but found that there was no difference in knot strength and it was a bit more difficult bed down smoothly. I use IQ 2 in 20 lb and Seaguar Ace hard in 35 lb.

Are you using chod filament? As flourocarbon alone has a natural curve that is hard to manipulate without steaming. I would recommend ESP bristle filament in 20lb if you are new to tying chods. It's easy to work with and also very good.

ESP also for me

My dog ' Bobby ' Taken last weekend at the local park

Reminds me of the Drennan boilie bayonet from the early nineties. I can't see any reason why it shouldn't work prof, seems okay to me. CM advice would be a slight improvement.

I use Gardner Covert Muggas in size 6 and 8 . Also their longshank Incizors in 8. Korda kaptor choddy in 4 and 6.

Without any pictures or descriptions of components , it's difficult to advise you. But lik as been said, I personally don't think it matters. If you could post a picture or describe the 'bits' you intend to use . We could advise you further.

I thought he was talking about rotting leaves. Leaves that have been broken down by bacteria (rotted) in the substrate produce organic silt ( underwater soil) . My theory behind it was that at this time of year, leaves in the process of rotting may not be a pleasant place to feed. Avoid if possible was my advice by raking the rotting leaves out of the way. Raking won't destroy natural food larders, it's a bit like turning your garden top soil over. Carp obviously do feed on or over rotting leaves, and if it's unavoidable then so be it. I would try to find or make a clear area if at all possible.

You say it's a small lake, full of rotting leaves. Has it got a water inlet and outlet? I ask this because leaves will be smelling on the lake bed now. The description you give give me a vision of a small,stagnant pond. The decomposing leaves in such a small water ( without an inlet) will affect the ph and water quality. Stock density also has an effect on this.( going off on a tangent here!!) If it has got an outlet, try your best to find a clear area. Raking a couple of mariginal areas may be an option, if allowed . This will benefit your presentation as well a being a potential point of investigation for the carp. Baiting these spots regularly with a few hand fulls of bait will also stack the odds in your favour. The weather is still relatively mild, so they will surley still be on the move and up for a bit of a munch.

I have 5 wraps around the spool ,as said above in case of cutting and retying.

The Mahin knot is worth considering , especially if casting long ranges. The tag ends go through the rod rings with less friction due o the tag ends exiting the knot facing backwards. Google it a look at a diagram and you'll see what I mean.

On a positive note, Korda endorse and promote safe angling and their team are good role models. This is especially important when influencing young anglers. I enjoy watching Thinking Tackle, in fact I enjoy watching any fishing program . Apart from Robson Green. When it comes down to inventing or more to word ' claiming' to have invented something, I think the term innovating being more accurate. They do make good products, and I use a fair few of them myself.

Using foam on the hook will help to eliminate tangles on the cast. The air resistance will in effect keep a distance between hookbait and leader. Tethering the cast and clipping up will also help. Foam due to its buoyancy wil suspend your hook length off the bottom for a short period, so beware if using a supple hooklength because it may just fold down on itself. There are numerous variables that affect this, it is very important to ensure you have a full understanding of how your end tackle behaves upon contact with the surface of the water and to how it lies immediately after it decends on to the lake bed. I've only scratched the surface here and I'm sort of digressing from the original question.

Pick a hook with a 'generous' barb. As said above, Gardner hooks offer this. Muggas, Incizors , take your pick and reel them in.

When I'm not using Stiff rigs etc, PB Jelly wire is what I use. The weed green in 15lb, I've used it since 2010 if my memory serves me correctly.

The first thing to consider whilst deciding to use a leader is,Is it absolutely necessary. If you are not fishing at long range, upping the diameter of your mainline should be deemed a first option. If fishing in dense weed, a braid mainline is a well worthy and possibly the best option. This is due to its ' cutting through the weed capabilities ' , direct pull, bite indication etc. I sometimes use 20lb Xline as a leader of about 6ft to 8ft . This is when using a helicopter rig in light weed in gin clear water. Obvious reasons being that it sinks like a brick and hides better than my mainline, and it's strong enough to take the strain of pull on the swivel whilst playing a fish. Sometimes I use a 3in leadcore leader so that the swivel can slide down and position itself onto that. When using an helicopter rig in weed, I use 3lb line to tie my lead on and korda no trace beads as fish safety is of paramount. When respooling flourocarbon mainline, ensure that it goes on without any twist. It then needs a good good stretch . I go to the local fields early in the morning to avoid dog walkers. I take a rod, reel and my spools along with a Bivvy peg. I walk it out 100 yards or so , peg it down ,walk back and give it a big stretch. I the release it from the peg , walk back and wind in the limp line. I do this 3 times per spool. Hence the early morning lol. It's worth doing this excercise after each fishing trip for at least the first 3 times of use. Or when ever it starts misbehaving. I do it with mono mainline also as I do suffer from line twist from time to time. This excercise resets your line so to speak.

For distance, I've used 20lb mono in the past. For snag leaders I've used 45 lb quicksilver .This is also good in weed. For a general bullet proof , yet suttle and sinking leader of about 12ft , it's got to be 35 lb Seagaur Ace Hard . It's .47mm diameter I also use this for stiff booms. Give it a good stretch before you cast out. For spodding and marker/ leading rods, I use The korda one , this is very robust and long lasting. Very reliable withstanding a lot of abuse. Use the Mahin knot to join your leaders, it's easy to learn, very small and the tag ends face backwards as they exit through the rod rings. Hope I've been of some help.

On the subject of the Albright Knot. When tying mine, I whip up 6 times and back down 3. I do this as I find that I can tighten it down and get the braid section length very small if needed. I think the more whipping the more it pulls through.

The rig in question is just fine as it is. No buoyancy/balancing required whatsoever.

I'm also a believer in keeping things simple when possible. Sometimes though when setting a 'trap' you have to be rest assured that if it gets tampered with , it's still fishing for you. Through most of my carp angling, I've angled on silted up meres (27 yrs) and for a fair bit of that time I used rigs fishing in the silt, 'where the food is' . It's so easy for your hook to foul up and then your sitting there unbeknowing what condition the hooking arrangement is in. Many a time I've watched carp bubbling over my bait and not had a bleep, I've wound in, recast to the same spot and had a take within the same feeding spell. I prefer bottom baits than pop ups when fishing in silt and if I'm fishing in daylight where I can watch for activity, I will happily use them. When I use them at night and I get unexplained bleeps, I tend to give it 30 min, then I feel like I need to wind in and re cast and in most cases I will. That's where stiff rigs with pop ups are effective from a re-setting perspective, along with the other obvious advantages.

Whoever that belongs to needs stringing up by the danglies with it. Utterly discusting.