johnplumb Posted November 18, 2012 Report Posted November 18, 2012 After watching the 1st Korda video's to me it was clear that hooking a carp was a lot harder than you may think. I remember reading something about a fish that hadn't been caught for years and was presumed dead, it was spotted feeding with its tail right up , feeding this way is going to make it much harder for the hook to take a hold . Whether a carp can learn to feed in a way that helps it eject a rig or it naturally feeds in a way that helps is possibly why some carp do not get caught that often while still putting on weight. In reply to your question i shudder to think how many times you are picked up and dumped , it does tell me that for all the fancy tackle above water all the expensive alarms the matching reel handles don't mean a thing unless you get the £2 worth of bits spot on at the other end of it Quote
garysj01 Posted November 18, 2012 Author Report Posted November 18, 2012 Yeah like i said before, no one rig will catch all carp, not even close, there are too many variables to consider. Quote
liamclose Posted November 18, 2012 Report Posted November 18, 2012 Agree with you gary. The main thing when it comes to rigs is with out doubt hook sharpness. Im a massive believer in keeping things simple as possible. You carnt reinvent the wheel adding rings and micro swivels aint for me. Knotless knot bait on the hair away you go. I often hear people saying" im going to change my rigs" when there rigs are not the problem or at least it wasnt until they tinkerd about and added bells and whistles there problem is useally location! lot of people also carnt blank with out changeing rigs for the next session sometimes its as simple as the were not feeding on the day but because they watch fake fishing on DVDs and tv programmes where blanks are almost non existant they think that a blank means there not doing it right! Keep everything strong and simple and concerntrate on location not the latest wonder rig. Quote
salokcinnodrog Posted November 18, 2012 Report Posted November 18, 2012 so what do you think separates a bottom or a pop up...why a long hair on one but not the other???? whats your thinking gary??? I've got a feeling I may be missing out when fishing pop-ups as I do prefer the bait tight to the shank. For ages I felt that a fish mouthed the pop-up to take it, rather than sucked it in. Yet reading through this thread, and also on something I read in Tim Paisleys Big Carp ages ago with a pop-up on a long hair as Brian Garner was fishing on The Mangrove, may produce some big fish that wouldn't otherwise often get caught. It may also explain why I missed out on a couple of particular fish from Brackens that I never managed to catch on my favoured set-up, (mind you, there could be other potential reasons, or I could also have lost them). Yet strangely my favoured hook set-up with a snowman also produced 3 30's that had never been caught before. I write "hook set-up" as the hook patterns and attachment were the same, although 2 were caught on a combi version of the rig, and 1 on a coated braid with a stripped section. Quote
beanz Posted November 18, 2012 Report Posted November 18, 2012 i think when using a stiff hinge/chod or withy/claw type rig, a bait close to the shank may work better because of its stiffness and the anti-eject properties. a simple rig though and i believe now that distance is necessary. heres a pic of my simple rig, i can use it for bottoms or pop-ups just by adding or removing the shot. i only came about using this as the coots wouldnt leave me alone for the first few sessions, so from fear of hooking them i lengthened the hair as i started of with one bait close to the hook....when i finally found the fish, it worked a treat. Quote
liamclose Posted November 18, 2012 Report Posted November 18, 2012 My pop up rig is the same i dont make special rigs for pop ups a bit of putty on on my hook link jobs a goodun! Quote
Guest keenook Posted November 18, 2012 Report Posted November 18, 2012 Beanz, Is that a shot in the braid? If so can I offer you a little tip? Instead of putting the shot on the braid, before you tie on a swivel, add a 5mm piece of 0.5mm silicone tube, then pinch the shot onto the tube, no damage or fraying will be done to the braid, if not fishing a pop up then simply take off the shot then slide the tube down to the swivel. Quote
beanz Posted November 18, 2012 Report Posted November 18, 2012 top tip kev occasionally ,when i remember i would pinch it onto the bunched up coating. Quote
johnplumb Posted November 18, 2012 Report Posted November 18, 2012 I enjoy threads like this as i genuinely believe that i have learnt something and one day it WILL catch me an extra fish or two . I feel you may not be able to re invent the wheel but you can improve it Quote
Guest keenook Posted November 18, 2012 Report Posted November 18, 2012 I enjoy threads like this as i genuinely believe that i have learnt something and one day it WILL catch me an extra fish or two . I feel you may not be able to re invent the wheel but you can improve it Spot on John, and the day we think we know everything, is the day to hang up the rods, as the chase will be over! Quote
garysj01 Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Posted November 19, 2012 Well if nothing else at least iv'e got people thinking Quote
garysj01 Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Posted November 19, 2012 Ok fella's, hooklink material and length What hooklink materials do you use and what are your reason's for doing so? Plus why do you tie them a certain length? Quote
blanksalot Posted November 19, 2012 Report Posted November 19, 2012 Ok fella's, hooklink material and length What hooklink materials do you use and what are your reason's for doing so? Plus why do you tie them a certain length? Mainly coated braid, 6-8" long, longer if on silt but i may change to a combi rig for that, some pics on this thread https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=53082&highlight=rigbox+ocd Quote
garysj01 Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Posted November 19, 2012 Me, im a massive fan of braid, the suppler the better, i do use stiff link material but its always tied as a combi rig if im fishing singles. My usual braided hooklinks are 6 inches in length, although they are 4 inches long for solid pva bagging. I would also make them longer if i was fishing in silt and some weed, sometimes i have used them up to 2 feet long. I don't have any problems with tangles as i use sticks, I can't help but think, a stiffer material can be felt more than a supple braided link, as it is rigid by nature, i know many will disagree, including, johnplumb, beanz, liamclose and many more Quote
salokcinnodrog Posted November 19, 2012 Report Posted November 19, 2012 Me, im a massive fan of braid, the suppler the better, i do use stiff link material but its always tied as a combi rig if im fishing singles. My usual braided hooklinks are 6 inches in length, although they are 4 inches long for solid pva bagging. I would also make them longer if i was fishing in silt and some weed, sometimes i have used them up to 2 feet long. I don't have any problems with tangles as i use sticks, I can't help but think, a stiffer material can be felt more than a supple braided link, as it is rigid by nature, i know many will disagree, including, johnplumb, beanz, liamclose and many more I'm also a fan of braided or coated braid and stripped back section for hooklinks. I feel that the supple and soft feel is more like a piece of weed than a stiffer hooklink material should the carp be able to differentiate. Years ago I tried the silly experiment of putting a piece of braid across my lips, I could hardly feel it, yet do the same with mono or fluorocarbon and I could feel it. I also think that hooklink materials may also need to be considered in how you are fishing or the fishes feeding action. If a fish is lifting straight up then a straightened or stiffer material may be felt faster than a coiled up or naturally landed braided material. Another advantage with braid is that even longer hooklinks can be put in a PVA bag for when the fish are wary of shorter hooklinks. Quote
beanz Posted November 19, 2012 Report Posted November 19, 2012 Me, im a massive fan of braid, the suppler the better, i do use stiff link material but its always tied as a combi rig if im fishing singles. My usual braided hooklinks are 6 inches in length, although they are 4 inches long for solid pva bagging. I would also make them longer if i was fishing in silt and some weed, sometimes i have used them up to 2 feet long. I don't have any problems with tangles as i use sticks, I can't help but think, a stiffer material can be felt more than a supple braided link, as it is rigid by nature, i know many will disagree, including, johnplumb, beanz, liamclose and many more i dont disagree though i would say that if they feel it on their lips,the hook is in their mouth .......so its too late Quote
liamclose Posted November 20, 2012 Report Posted November 20, 2012 I use supple braids for most my fishing ESP sink link is used for the majority of my fishing 15 or 20lb, Unless its really snaggy then i use korda N trap in 20lb. If im fishing shallow clear water then i use drennan double stregth in 10lb. I dont use any stiff materials! Quote
beanz Posted November 20, 2012 Report Posted November 20, 2012 mouth trap is a stiff material isnt it??? ..i thought it was kordas answer to esps stiff rig bristle filament Quote
liamclose Posted November 20, 2012 Report Posted November 20, 2012 mouth trap is a stiff material isnt it??? ..i thought it was kordas answer to esps stiff rig bristle filament Meant N Trap. Quote
beanz Posted November 20, 2012 Report Posted November 20, 2012 mouth trap is a stiff material isnt it??? ..i thought it was kordas answer to esps stiff rig bristle filament Meant N Trap. Quote
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