salokcinnodrog

Adam, please don't take this as a personal attack in any way, that's not my style and definitely not my intention.
 
However if you don't understand the danger to the fish in using leadcore, regardless of length or arrangement, in my opinion you shouldn't use it at all.
 
I use it for some things, but only in the shortest length required for the rig, and I think very hard and very carefully about what could happen if:-
The lead comes off?
The line snaps?
The leader kinks?
A bit of weed gets in the loop?
A bead jams on some silkweed?
The fish swims into a snag trailing it?
And so on and so on.

I do believe Ian used them in the past:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Sunglasses-Warehouse-Online-Shop/_i.html?_nkw=Fishing+sunglasses&submit=Search&_sid=195197055
 
 
This is Eyelevel, but I know some tackle shops sell them (we do)
http://www.xxl-sale.co.uk/search/?q=Eyelevel%20Sunglasses&campid=5337249842&gclid=COrRzobc4csCFeop0woddRoMmA

Completely agree fella , I've said before you need the lead on these set ups to make sure the fish is only left with a short rig to deal with.

No the fish only gets its face smashed in if there is slack between the bottom of the hooklink and the lead, which if the bottom bead is used correctly there won't be. Point of fact I never use chod rigs, as for my money there are better ways of presenting a pop up in any situation than a chod rig, so my lead is always at least 6 inches from the hook anyway. The heli safe stopping the fish getting its face bashed in assumes firstly that there will be slack between the hook and the lead while playing the fish, which there shouldn't be, and assumes that the lead will snag up on something during the fight, which It shouldn't. If the line snaps the leader will sink under its own weight, but the heavier end will sink first/further. If that is a lead then the end the fish can escape from will trail up allowing the fish to escape. If there is no lead then the longest length of leadcore will sink. Given that during the fight this will invariably be the end that the mainline was attached to there is a much higher chance of this end snagging up. The fish cannot get past what is left of the heli safe system so will be totally teathered. I agree that a safe rig is one that allows a fish to be landed, but not with a total lack of consideration for what happens if it goes wrong. A good safe rig will take both into account, which this doesn't.

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Then there is the most important part of Carp.com
 
HAVE FUN!

Do Sea Trout count?
From the lagoons!
 
Well done to all those catching

Oh yes I will let you know if I get to skip church and go on a Sunday

I must admit I have been enjoying watching this season's football.
 
The Premiership is much more open, the big four, Chelsea, Manchester City, Manchester United and Arsenal seem out of it.
It is very refreshing to see Tottenham and Leicester so far fighting for the top spot, after spending far less money than the other teams.
 
Claudio Ranieri has been keeping his players motivated without appearing big headed, and they are certainly doing the do on other teams.
As for Spurs, quietly keeping on keeping on, and winning when they play.

I test every single hook. As I take it out of the pack I check to see the point is ok, and if I can bend it by hand, and When I pull my knots tight I pull the hook with the grip holes on a pair of forceps. I know I'm pulling the centre of the bend, but any weakness should show up between those checks.
 
I know it's not relevant now, but I have used Kamasan B175's in the past for the bent hook rigs, and I did used to bend them mid shank. I never had one of those go wrong, straighten or bend out. In fact I do still do that when I use them on pike traces as the upper single hook, and again, not had a problem.
 
I think some branded carp hooks are a cheaper copy of some other hooks, the pattern being arrived at in response to other brands being there first, a tackle brand making cost cutting exercises or a compromise of cost vs strength and reliability. In other words I won't trust some tackle branded hooks at all. Get a hook pattern you can rely on, and don't just follow fashion. Get the right hook for your fishing; don't use a thin gauge hook near snags or where you need to put the pressure on.

Ok so, experiment with hair length

I test any end tackle to destruction before I cast it out be it hook length material or hooks if it stands up to me a & two rig pullers I'm happy to cast it out .
I'm surprised at just how many products are out there that give up way before you would expect them to.
Hence me saying about these krank hooks being pants , also remember members recommending korda IQ years ago so I purchased some only for it to snap like a carrot & never cast it out . I reported back on that too & sure enough members started to say the same even after recommending it them selves.

Now i know where all the king prawn boilies keep going!

We cannot say for a fact that the Korda's are softer fella - all we can say is that nealjt's test result and my findings re sharpening are indicative of a hook that is softer than some other brands. If they're softer then yes, they would blunt more easily, it is a given.
 
So you should be mate! It's the single most important consumable item in our tackle box.

Aware this is an old thread however feel my history with the place will be of use to some... I learnt to fish on the canal when my grandad Trev was a bailiff, in that time I have fished every lake at the water park...
 
Jacobs Creek: personally I've not done very well on the lake, it is extremely weedy and the fish appear to switch off for periods of time. The huts are nice but the train track is literally 30-50 metres from you which can be loud at night.
 
Main lake: I've fished this so so many times, had dozens of nice pike (max 19lb), nice tench and even big bream however my time is focused on the carp... I've had 2 30's out of the big lake my biggest being 34lb 4Oz however I am focusing on carrot as my all out target! I tend to fish peg 6, 9, 14, 22, 28a, the car park swims BUT my favourite swim is 31... Fished to the right 80yards is an area which just works every time!
 
Trad: my personal favourite for an enjoyable 24HR session, out of the way and some pretty fish.. I fish bobs where the carp tend to shoal up or the opposite end of the point swim 5 yards off the island is a natural water spring which can produce!
 
M1: Mid summer all thats needed is one rod and some floaters however I fish one rod close in the margin and one 15 yards out when doing nights, confined to a choice of 3 or so swims in the trees.. Good fun for an overnight however I have had to bring my rods in twice as it was constant and had work the next day.
 
M2; not much to say produced some nice fish and good fun but not a go too lake.
 
M3(donut): nice for crucian and relaxed angling but like M2 makes more sense to fish M1 or trad
 
Canal: haven't fished this since my grandad bailiffed the Waterpark... The. There was some good fishing from one rod in the float with maggots
 
 
All in all I only fish the speci, trad and m1 now all just using Nutcracker 12mm boilees with stick mix and 4mm pellets in a mesh bag normally..
 
Hope it helps and will say the park is very rewarding given a chance but also please be courteous to others... Im not antisocial however when on the bank that's the rare time I get to myself and I like the waters edge calm and quiet so don't feel the need to charge in etc.

I like it

Tied one up with 25lb Merlin while on the bank this weekend.
I say tied, spliced one up this weekend.
Dental Floss whipped hair, spliced hook and swivel, the hook fitted with a shrink tube kicker.
I'll add picture to this later

Just been having a think, how would splicing the hook on work for you?
 
It does give a stiffer section near the hook, and then whipping on your hair or even using a sliding ring on the shank stopped with a rig stop bead?
 
If you do splice it, with the stiffer section you could use it for a pop-up or snowman rig with the rig ring, or with a whipped hair as a bottom bait rig.

You may find this interesting:
http://www.carprus.eu/about-the-company.php
 
Splicing stronger than knotting I knew about, and boat ropes are spliced for loops at the end, learnt that as a kid when using a dinghy on the broads, hence my splicing experiments with braids in the early 90's.

This years pike fishing for me started on New Years Day, when I got up at 3am to drive down to Essex so I could set up and fish a couple of hours in the dark.
 
At 8.30 ish the right hand rod baited with a popped up bluey head went off, and after a decent scrap this 12 was netted.
 

 
12.00 and the left hand rod baited with a lamprey tail brought this

 
This fish didn't scrap so well, looking like it had had an argument with something, with cuts and scars around the head, but weighed 13lb.

 
As I had set up in the dark, both rods were ledgered dead-baits, one fished popped up, the other on the bottom, and both produced fish.
 
As you can see, the unhooking mat and sling is ready, with forceps to hand. I can unhook the pike, sling the trace and weight out the way (usually back into the water) so there is no risk to me or the fish, then slide the net out the way and straight into the sling to weigh the fish. Then it's already in the sling to carry back to the lake safely to be released.

 
Tomorrow I reckon I can drive down slightly later, but still be there for an early one.

This years pike fishing for me started on New Years Day, when I got up at 3am to drive down to Essex so I could set up and fish a couple of hours in the dark.
 
At 8.30 ish the right hand rod baited with a popped up bluey head went off, and after a decent scrap this 12 was netted.
 

 
12.00 and the left hand rod baited with a lamprey tail brought this

 
This fish didn't scrap so well, looking like it had had an argument with something, with cuts and scars around the head, but weighed 13lb.

 
As I had set up in the dark, both rods were ledgered dead-baits, one fished popped up, the other on the bottom, and both produced fish.
 
As you can see, the unhooking mat and sling is ready, with forceps to hand. I can unhook the pike, sling the trace and weight out the way (usually back into the water) so there is no risk to me or the fish, then slide the net out the way and straight into the sling to weigh the fish. Then it's already in the sling to carry back to the lake safely to be released.

 
Tomorrow I reckon I can drive down slightly later, but still be there for an early one.

I went through a stage of threading Amnesia or Fluorocarbon through 25lb Merlin to create a semi-stiff hooklink, loop going through a swivel rather than quick link style, the inner helping the loop to hold true
 
Straight shank hook (I think it was actually a Drennan Super Specialist) with the hair made with whipping thread,and whipped down the hook shank. I seem to recall silicon tubing made up the line aligner.
 
It worked, but was fiddly to keep on doing regularly.
 
By the way, like your Zippo, brass looks nicer than chrome
Got one the same myself!

There IS a God after all

Thanks guys....some great valid comments that fall in line with the general consensus with the brethren down here....one in particular..from a Victorian carper....
 
They seem to believe that the killing of 95% of carp will bring their waterways back to a pristine condition, ignoring the fact that most of the damage is done by humans.  Remove the industrial pollution, urban and farming run off, bank erosion from cattle and ski boats, habitat removal, redirection of waterways and reduction of natural flows and then you can blame the carp.  
 
Take care
 
Paul

They're awful at the moment , doubt they'll stay up and it's been on the cards for 2or 3 years .
 
Think they may get beat in the cup today as well .

In the words of a famous kids program "Here's one Nick prepared earlier"