salokcinnodrog

Your Dangly bits should most definitely be removed! First thing in the morning is spotting time, not baiting up time😉 I have been out on a lake in a boat first thing in the morning over my baited spots, and if I didn't catch the night before, my bait is usually still there untouched. There are some occasions when I had been sussed, or a tangled rig prevented a take, but very few. Carp and other fish cannot visit every spot in the lake that has food on it every night, and they simply can't eat it all. Add to that night time darkness takes, they cannot see the rig, so it is suck and blow ejection, not visibly avoid. Carp do not always feed at night on every water, I have had numbers of fish during the day. Some are night waters, but some are definitely waters where the carp will feed during the day. If you do catch first thing, the only bait to put in is with a PVA bag or stringer, don't be spodding loads more in. Even cattying baits in can be enough to spook some fish. The splash of a lead and PVA is one splash. Cattied or throwing sticked baits is numbers of splashes, as for the spod/Spomb... If I was turning up for a day session then all my baiting is nearly always done with PVA, a single chuck with a stringer or bag. It is very rare I spod in. It is extremely unfair on other anglers, disrespectful and plain ignorant. If no-one else is on the lake, maybe I will if I know the fish respond to loads of bait, and maybe if I am baiting up for later, but most definitely not around other anglers, Just a few first light fish:

At times I have had to leave a bait in place for 2 days before getting a take. It is rare I get tangled on the cast, using foam and PVA means I can prevent tangles. Crayfish can mess up a rig, especially with soft braided hooklinks. A word on corn foam nuggets, they can take up to 12 hours to dissolve, even with water current. My advice is do not hook them. Wrap them around the hook, and lick and stick the final edge. How often I recast depends on the water. A runs water where I am fishing for a day is a totally different kettle of fish to a larger 'big fish' water that I am on for a few days. Also having a dog that I walk round the lake first thing and take for a walk in the afternoon means I usually recast twice a day. I try not to cast out when the boats are out. I don't like being accused of aiming for them, even if I think it... Weed moves! In summer it can actually grow or rest over your lines and hookbait overnight. On most waters I prefer to recast for the night before other anglers, my disturbance is done, out of the way, and other anglers then do their recasting and move the fish onto other areas, hopefully my bait. Golden Paws point about corkball pop-ups, I had the same problem. For some reason corkball pop-ups tend to take on water, maybe through an imperfection or hole in the skin, the dental floss cutting the skin, or small fish picking at them, and then break free as the boiled paste dissolves. You may be far better using pop-up mix pop-ups, which are harder. Crays can also break them free. If it is the knot going, I create a uni-knot loop, put the pop-up in, and pull tight. If it is a complete tie on job, I then tie it to the rig ring, hair loop whatever with a double overhand and lighter blob the tag ends. If crays are a problem, and ripping pop-ups, I mesh them and tie them on above a bottom bait on the hair. Harpz makes a point about not recasting during bite times. I do sometimes do it on purpose. If you get the feeling things aren't right, your hookbait is being ignored, covered in silt or weed, or even 'sussed', then a recast with an old hookbait and fresh bait stringer, can get you a take. The fresh stringer is the danger, the old hookbait is safe. I have had a number of takes doing that, within minutes of the bait being cast.

I'm always wary of old stock, but it is sunlight that weakens line, along with the stretching and abrading in the water. I used to change line religiously twice a year, my Sensor was being fragged on lilies, weed, (with snails and particles on the fronds), gravel and mussels, even buoy chains. This year I have had to replace line twice when boats caught it, blooming idiots sailing too close to the bank!

I use 15lb mono with a shockleader to get the distance.

I do add a tablespoonful of brown sugar to the water per kilo of maize as I soak it. In terms of catching, I found no improvement using fermented maize over freshly prepared. In fact if anything, going in still warm worked best for me.

Must admit I think The Ronnie rig is more fish and landing net friendly than the 360 rig, although both present the bait very similarly. I know Frank (Levigsp) really rates the 360, although as has been said before by myself and others when netting a fish, make sure the fish goes to the bottom of the landing net, because if the swivel/hook eye catches in the mesh it can make a mess of the fishes mouth. I think the movement on the 360, being able to spin 360 (d'oh😖) is better than the movement of a slowed down covered swivel of The Ronnie rig. The 360, is also easier to tie up. Presentation, both are going to be very close to the lakebed, both can be presented as a hinge/combi style rig with a stiff or supple boom to get over the substrate and reduce tangles. I have caught on both, but the Jingly Jangly rig as I think it was Keith Jenkins named the 360 originally is the better hooker, dependant on hook you use, whereas the Ronnie more hooks are suitable. For the Ronnie, I use Solar 101's and Gardner Muggas, whereas the 360, I think the curve shank patterns are best. Both give 'reset' chances after an aborted take or bird interest, (as many pop-up rigs do) compared to blowback rigs using tubing which may be triggered and fail to hook if birds have played with the bait.

My thoughts, a running lead works best with a totally slack line, and doesn't necessarily need a long hooklink as the line is free running through the run ring. I use 3oz on running leads, not saying that is the only weight to use, but sometimes you may find heavier is needed. If the bottom is a bit mucky, try adding a lead link, that will stop the lead sinking into it and dragging the hook and bait into it. The bleeps could be signs you are getting done, it may be worth playing (increasing) the hair length. I found on a water I used to fish with running leads, I was having silver fish hitting the line between the bottom and where it entered the water, a series of bleeps, then nothing. A carp was quite unmistakeable, bleep, bleep, bleeeeeeeeeeeeeep non stop.

Marcus has a thread in the New to Carp.com section of the forum here so I have moved this into UK Carp fishing. A fresh thread on the joys and hopes of the weekend Sadly I am working a late today, and picked up an agency shift in Cambridge for tomorrow, so that cuts Saturday or Sunday to Tuesday, my usual 3 dayer out. Added with a new girlfriend, I don't think a few days fishing would cut the ice... I may be lucky enough to get out Sunday, maybe Monday but it would be days only, although if Rachel fancied a day out, and came as well, may be an excuse to take her and her son out for the day.

I honestly can't remember, think the repair and p&p was no more than £20 though. It was over 5years ago😖😉

I'm not sure about how a bait can be specific for a particular strain. Leather, mirror and common, even koi are all part of the same species, cyprinus carpio, although I think that linears and leather carry a potentially lethal gene. (Maybe Frank (Levigsp), can explain it better). I do know though that in my experience, common carp on some waters can sometimes show a distinct preference for particles, where mirrors may be more boilie orientated. I used Trigga on Earith for a couple of years, that bait caught both mirrors and commons in I reckon equal proportions. Years ago there was an ongoing discussion about honey being an attractor for leathers, not sure if Chillfactor remembers or was part of it? There has to be some sight feeding, smaller fish could well be more sight feeders, having to eat everything they see, compared to bigger fish being more nutritionally able to 'smell' baits? Saying all that, the original big mirror (which I haven't seen recently) in my local park lake had a distinct skill in boilie hookbait avoidance, it was usually caught on bread. The majority of the commons I caught were all caught on sweetcorn over Vitalin, the mirrors on boilies. On Brackens, again I caught both mirrors and commons on Smokey Bacon and Smoked Mackeral, although I never caught any of the three biggest fish on them, but it is possible I had lost them without knowing in my few fish losses.

Sorted with an edit. PM through this, https://www.carp.com/profile/106642-daveyyyyyyyyyyyy/?wr=eyJhcHAiOiJmb3J1bXMiLCJtb2R1bGUiOiJmb3J1bXMtY29tbWVudCIsImlkXzEiOjI0NzM3LCJpZF8yIjozMjc2NDh9 no public selling on the forum. Tackle shop or ebay links accepted

One of my 'goto's' on the park lake with sweetcorn and/or pigeon conditioner added into the mix. I also save up and dry my old crusts and odd slices to go in as well. The anglers who fish just boilies can sit for hours without a touch, but put this into the lake close in on a float line and you can catch in minutes, and often the bigger fish.

Rottweiler? Is my reputation that bad? I'm a pussie cat when people keep on my good side😉😅 Seriously I would be ebaying, or your local second hand cash converters type store. My biggest worry of any of them is always 'hot' gear. I know how much my gear means to me, so I would hate anyone to have been forcibly parted from theirs. The Shimano 4000/4500 Aero gte's were some of the best baitrunners built, and the Optonic Super XL was a definite thought if Delkim hadn't come back into alarms.

I used to use crimps for mono rigs sea fishing, if I ever had a rig go, it was at the crimp. I ended up tying my rigs again. I now only crimp my pike wire traces and I use an electrical suppliers crimping tool with the trace wire manufacturers recommended crimps. My choice, is go back to knots and swivels, quick links and loop knots if you must😉

Thing is Mate, I have seen the issues with Fox alarms, from back on the release of the first Microns in the 1990's, the numbers that were returned to me in the tackle shops, or the angler asking for the Fox customer service phone number. Yet my Delkims have never caused me a problem, and I do fish in rain. As you say, maybe it is the newer models, I don't know as mine are the original St's. The only repairs mine have had is down to my own fault of leaving batteries in and corroding the battery terminal etc. I sent them back to Delkim, and had them repaired within a week.

I don't use protective hard cases, I use the original material soft cases, they don't store the damp like the hard cases do. I think a lot of Delkim users who do hard case their alarms may find their alarms go faulty. Customer demand and failure of care causing a fault rather than equipment failure as such. Best bet is to send them to Delkim, only they know what the cost of repair will be with the added battery connector issue. The prolonged damp may have caused electronics component failures.

You should be😉

I have honestly not found an all round best rod, there are too many variables involved. Size of water, distance needed to cast, weed etc. For long distance casting the best rods I have used have been Century FMJ's, followed by 2.75lb SP's, both could put a lead out long long way, well over 120+. My current Rod Hutchinson The Ones in 3.25 are growing on me, and I can hit over 130. My Century NG's in 2.75lb I can hit over 100 as well with a 3oz lead. My favourite fish playing rods were my Armalite mk.l's and ll's, followed by my current NG's.

I honestly think that it is rig names being changed as developments happen. I read Carpology's Guide to Rig Evolution, and the German rig has been changed and faffed with, so it actually bears little resemblance to the original rig. As for The Ronnie rig, I have tied a number up straight to the loop end of the swivel, no ring on it. It made no difference to me catching on it. I do fish it as a combi-rig, braid to the swivel, and then a fluorocarbon or Amnesia book section. It is often my 'whack it out' or pub chuck rod, although I do use a D-rig as well, fished in the same manner. The first fish I caught on it was a 32lb mirror from a difficult water on a homemade Garlic spice pop-up.Since then I have played around on a runs water with both versions, the ring swivel clip and plain swivel clip, and found the plain swivel clip actually worked best for me. I play with the height on the hook section on the D-rig more dependant on weed growth If I am in a weedy swim, compared to a more gravel or clay lakebed area.

That is the one. I rarely had rudd problems with them attacking it, very few in that lake.

I was posh, I had a battery powered float for tench and bream. Only problem was staring at it in the dark and your eyes would cause the float to 'wander'. It wasn't the float moving but your eyes as you stared at one spot. I must admit ledgering on the river was almost always done with white tape round the rod tip up into the ambient light, and/or touch ledgering. Brings to mind an amusing story with the battery float. I put the batteries in for the start of the season, and went to check the shotting with a bare hook in daylight, a size 10 Drennan Sweetcorn hook. Chucked it in, float went under, "oh puffle, too much weight", reeled in and discovered myself playing a 4oz roach. That night I think I had 4 tench on the float up to 6lb, all males.

Baitrunner is Shimano's registered name, it is a free spool system. A reel with a rear drag turned down to minimum and anti-reverse on can become a free spool, Abu Cardinal style, or even Fighting Drag. Daiwa have Bite'n'Run, other makes have their own brand name. Pricewise you have got me stumped, I would be going Shimano ST range, which are about £50.

Welcome to Carp.com. Upping the test curve does NOT give you more stopping power as those higher test curve type of rods are more tip action, which can rip hooks out, or break line. I would be using a more through action rod in around 2.5-2.75lb TC, but upping the line to 15lb. My hooklinks would also be braided hooklink material, they take abrasion better than most monos. For snag fishing, I would put the rods pointing directly where the end tackle is, baitrunner switched OFF, clutch tightened right up, anti-reverse off. Because the fish can't take line they will arc away from the snag, so you can step back as you strike, pull them away and then play as normal, just don't let them get their head down and go back into the snag. Trying to play fish up a channel with reeds on both sides is not fun, you may need to be able to get in the water, either by wading, (but don't take any risks), or by boat. Basically if you are leaving tackle in fish, or losing more than you land, then it could be too risky to fish.

Any chance for the fish to get used to your bait is a good thing. I wouldn't stick it all in one place though, I would spread it around, on the basis it is a good food source. The fish may not show in the same spots, or possibly somebody could be in there, so spread around, there is a good chance the fish will have tried it.

I think of the indicators I have used over the years, monkey climbers made out of old 35mm film cases, to Gardner bodies, to PTFE climbers on stainless needles with a ball top to prevent the indicator flying off. From those to original Fox Swingers, which I loved, as the sliding weight was, I think, more 'zero' under the buzzer, than the Mark.ll's. Then onto Fox Specialist hangars where I added some extra weight with some setting putty in the base, and put bath chains on them. After that I got some original Solar Quiverlocs, in red, white and green. I really did like the the original clips. After I finally killed them, and fancied an upgrade, I went for the short arm Solar Titaniums, again in those three colours. I must admit I don't like the Grip Clips, so put the IPRO heads on them, which I have found I can tighten right up. The Titaniums can be fished at drop, or as swingers or spring arm, even with the short arm which I prefer. As good as the long arms are, which are probably better, because I often fish as low as possible, that is why I have preference for short arms. The original Quiverlocs I found a bit too long at times. Isotopes, I do. At night I often sit watching the indicators, and sometimes with the buzzers off to keep myself to myself, so the isotopes mean I can see movement, even if the buzzers are on, sometimes a bit of movement can precede the sound. With tight lines I have the indicators level, you can see any movement. My indicators need to be able to be used with slack or tight lines, as I do prefer running leads, but can't always do that. Slack lines and running leads mean the indicator is down at 'maximum drop', or even resting on the ground in the case of the hangars. Tight lines means I can level my heads.