salokcinnodrog

Better to be safe. If you don't think you can fish to them safely, then you are doing exactly the right thing, trying to draw them out. Fishing to snags, as @Carpbell_ll has said, you need to be set locked up, and on your rods. No leaving them unattended! I prefer pointing the rods directly at the snag, no bent round tips as that can be enough for the carp to pull the rod over the alarms and take it into the drink. The theory is not giving any line, the fish arc away from the snags on the take.

Yes it does mean you can see some of them. Uncaught fish often show up at spawning time April is unlikely when they spawned, larger and deeper waters take longer to warm up to the temperature carp need to spawn, so even now some may not have spawned yet, and if the carp are area residential, they may not be ready. Not every carp in a lake spawn, although @Levigsp has written about an exception, or they do not spawn all at the same time. The exception is if new male fish have been stocked into the water, the next year all female fish will spawn. I must say though, and I am not disagreeing with Frank, but in a large reservoir it would be difficult to prove that. So if not every fish in a lake spawn, there are some that can still be fished for! In fact to be honest I am not totally sure of the need to close a fishery when fish spawn, other than to stop anglers casting into splashing bundles of spawning fish. Some aren't spawning, some are munching mates fish roe! In fact it is likely carp seen splashing in April, could well have been eating perch, roach or other fish spawn that do not require such high water temperature. Not all carp appear to spawn in the same area, although there is often one feature that provides the right environment, be it rushes, lily beds, overhanging waterside grass, then most will spawn there, but on larger waters like reservoirs then there may be more than one spawning area. Pretty much as soon as the major spawning is done, fish go on a munch, energy and protein hunt, protein for tissue repair, and energy as first requirement. Carp may also spawn more than once if the temperature is warm enough. As soon as they are emptied, the body starts producing eggs again, so they can go off again.

Something else that works as a zig bait is real or fake maggots on the hook or foam, but real can be a pain if you have loads of silver fish in the water. Using real maggots is not that hard but can be fiddly. Using a needle thread them onto a length of dental floss or fine mono, and then attach that to the foam or cork on the hook. Spraying a few maggots over it with a catty, or even floating maggots in groundbait... You get some real hits on that! I do prefer using adjustable zigs to keep the hooklink length shorter. With the adjustable zig I work from surface down rather than bottom to top.

The aniseed is definitely an attractor, smells very nice to me. I used to get split bags of whatever Pigeon mix when I was working at Gladwells, never minded which I got, they all worked, you just had to check if there were large seeds or maize in there and be sure to soak and boil if there were. Pigeon mixes, Chicken corn, whichever all work. The pigeon mixes do tend to have a few extra goodies in, for conditioning pigeons (d'oh😁), whereas chicken corn is maize, whole and split, grain and usually a bit of rapeseed.

My landing net for years was a 36, then that got 'promoted' to stalking until eventually the spreader block broke. It got replaced by a 42 Gardner net, that was heavy. Stuck with 42 ever since, although I do have a specimen pan net for smaller fish and bream. Since then I had a Nash Outlaw 42 until that broke, although now using a Fox Warrior, but I have replaced the mesh a couple of times

I use Verselle Laga garlic oil bird food in some of my baits. Good additive in my pop-ups, but it does stink a bit!

Found them rock hard, but they definitely catch!

Good bait for chub, even as they float. Carefully hook them, with maybe a cork ball on the hook eye, then freeline or drift them in the current, although you might need a controller to get a good straight drift as they are so light.

It's a cancer caused by aflatoxins. Bird peanuts used to be the leftovers, quite literally the rubbish that hit the floor, got wet, mildewed and attacked by bugs. However I think you will find they now have to be top grade human quality, so these aflatoxins are not present in them anymore. A 1kg bag is actually perfect, it stop you using too many. If you work on one bag per trip or for 48 hours then that prevents the 'addiction' that fishing with too many can create. Obviously, don't forget, soak for a minimum of 24hours and boil for 20minutes. Peanuts while they are high in Vitamin E, due to, I think, an enzyme inhibitor it stops the nutrition being utilised, so high quantities of peanuts are not good for carp, and many places ban them. Dried mealworms float, might be some alternative thinking coming around, like putting them in groundbait and wet spod mixes for floater fishing, or even as freebies for surface fishing... Or maybe grinding into base mixes... As for the wild bird seed, £1 a kilo may be slightly more than £12 for 15 or 20kg from an animal food store, but I have bought bags from the supermarket when out fishing just to top up, or not been able to get to the animal feed shop. The preparation is easy when fishing, I just pour boiling water over them in a bait bucket, put the lid on and they are ready 24hours later. You can boil them after 24hours, it releases sugars, and does make them more attractive.

Welcome to the forum. Anyone if you put it in the right place! Almost every single boilie available will catch fish, what sort of boilie do you want? Where are you fishing, a runs water or a harder lakes after big fish? Do you want an attractor bait or a food bait? Take your pick: Rod Hutchinson KMG, Monster Crab Crafty Catcher King Prawn. Dynamite, various flavours can't remember them all. Nutrabaits... Just four bait manufacturers, there are loads more...

Join the club! Ok, I have fished a few reservoirs over the years, so I'll try to give my best advice, but it will be long winded. Your tackle, 10000's will be fine, but bear in mind with 0.35mm 15lb line you will probably be looking at casting no more than 90metres. You may need to down the line size, possibly to 10lb and a shockleader to get any further, or as your other option, get Big Pit reels. Believe it or not, most of my reservoir fish have come at less than 100 metres range, in fact many within 50metres. As much time looking and walking as you can, usually I spend around hours looking certain areas even before I start. The shape of the reservoir can make a difference, a bowl you can walk one bank, if you have the sun behind you, with binoculars, if a fish rolls, you can often see it. If however it is divided into separate arms or bays then you will be needing to look closely. For some reason, the fish can really follow the wind, the stronger the better. It may not be fun facing into a strong gale force wind with pouring rain, but I have had my best result on Alton in those conditions, when I was quite literally peeking out of the door, or unable to sleep because I was worried my brolly was going to get blown away, and I have had a couple of nights when I was holding it down, with extra long pegs. A good strong bivvy is a must, cheap domes don't last! I rarely prebait, other than putting the last of my bait in at the end of a session. I have a good bait, I know it works, however it can take a couple of days for carp to come into an area. Every fish I have caught has come on bottom baits or pop-ups, none on zigs! Be confident in your rigs, a plain knotless knot rig with line aligner works, often no need to faff about. This 'slope line' is often a good place to fish, it is the spot I have caught many fish, both bream and carp, more so than deeper water. Most of my fish have come from between 6 and 15 feet deep.

I have used them in the past, you do have to make sure that they don't break. I had one break after it was lit, it fell off the coil and melted a hole in a bucket lid. Mosquito repellants are personal, and mosquitoes in one place will respond differently to different supposed repellants. Some people get on alright with Avon Skin so Soft, yet others don't. At Nazeing Skin so Soft was normally ok and kept me bug free, yet at Taverham Mills I had to use Deet based repellant. The higher Deet content the more repellant, yet the more of a headache it can produce. It will also break down plastics! Lifesystems Expedition + is around 50% Deet, as is Jungle Formula. The repellant effect of 8 hours is ok in summer, but come autumn if I spray just before dark, I could end up being bitten before I wake up. I'm not normally too bad with insect bites, just a slight itch the day after, but I have had serious problems when I was bitten by something in long grass and ended up with blood poisoning that saw a hospital visit. That would be my own fault for not spraying...

You can get Solar Indicator Heads only, or the complete P1 indicator system. I use the Short Arm Titaniums as swingers, quiver arm (tight line indicators) or set slack at maximum drop for running leads and slack lines: https://www.solartackle.co.uk/gear/titanium-indicator-heads

The best binder to keep it stiff is white breadcrumb. Vitalin and plain white crumb takes its time breaking down.

Is this any use? It is page 2 of a Chod rig thread: There are some pictures on there, and I have used a ring swivel, but it is fallen flat Please note, I do still make sure that if I have used a leader of any sort that the beads will go over my leader knot and the rig can follow.

The 10000 does have a bigger body, whereas on the smaller sizes I think it is just spool size.

I have a distinct preference for Shimano reels, but I would definitely agree more modern Shimanos are not as good as older models, with a few exceptions. I used to work in a tackle shop, so played with plenty, my view is do not waste your money on the DL range, stick with the ST.

The D-rig is the basis for a few rigs. A Chod rig relies on a D. You can even end the D up the hooklink, making it a blowback rig. I must admit I tie a longer knotless section so the ring is situated close and tight to the shank near the bend for pop-ups, I personally found it gave me better hookups. Please note, that is my findings on pop-ups fished close to the bottom. D-rigs do also work very well with snowman presentations as well as bottom baits. I believe It was in this situation, as a bottom bait rig that Roger Smith came up with it, in the blowback format, for fish that had sussed the original hair at Savay.

I found spodding with braid absolutely horrible. If you hit the clip hard, because braid has no stretch you lose a spomb, even with a shockleader, or you break a line clip. (And I have). Braid can also be terrible for wind knots, and I also wore grooves in the tip and butt ring of the Spod rod I was using. On my spod rod I had to go back to 15lb mono with an Amnesia or 40lb Greased Weasel Leader and a medium Spomb. The distance I am spodding at is a lot more than 20 wraps (around 75metres), probably closer to 100 or more, and I no longer have problems with lost tackle

I buy Eyelevel sunglasses, they are decent wearing for all times, I rarely go out anywhere without mine. The only problem with that is I have a tendency to break or lose them, so this is saved: https://eyelevel-uk.com/search?type=product,article,page&q=Fishing* I had it explained to me as Most cheap polarised glasses are only one layer of polarisation, if you tilt your head 90degrees to the side the polarisation effect does not work, so a second layer is put on at that angle. That then increases the cost. I have had various sunglasses over the years, from Optix Cormorants, around £45 in the 1990's, to Fox, to Sunglasses Warehouse, and to be honest the Eyelevel I found as comfortable, and as good as the Optix.

I have moved this into Tackle and Equipment. Apparently these are what Dave Lane uses: https://www.totalfishinggear.co.uk/carp/bite-alarms/tf-gear-mag-runner-ignite-bite-alarm I have seen them in the flesh when I used to work in a tackle shop, they do look pretty good, never had any returns, and according to Dave Lane in the TFG catalogue article, pretty bulletproof

It was recommended when I was fishing at Nazeing probably around 2008, maybe earlier, a couple of fish were found tethered, printed in the national press and on a big thread on here, started by Jemsue, unable to get rid of the rig, attached to leadcore. Rob Hughes and Simon Crow reported them in CarpTalk. Korda then backtracked what they said.

That is one reason I try to put as little money in his pocket as possible. His Embryo project may be good for angling, although over stocking a lake with tench is not a good idea. His lead clips are shameful, the lead clip should always lockdown and not move. Yet it only takes a tug for the lead clip to release from the swivel. Every other manufacturer knows this, and pegs them or has theirs drilled so they can be tied in place. You should be able to use any size 8 swivel, not just Korda's which are a slightly different size. And some of the tips coming out of the Korda company have left a number of fish... 'Using a needle Put your leadcore beads on sideways' that stopped rigs ejecting and lead to fish getting snagged up on leadcore.

I found Kryston Supersilk to be too thin for its breaking strain, there were only two of their hooklinks I didn't get on with, that and Jackal, which I found would strip itself far too easily. The coating wasn't tough enough.

I must have been bored, I sat and D'd some hooks this week for D-rigs, so I have plenty ready for tying. Standard rig ring on 15lb mono. The hard part is whipping the second end of the mono down as you are going inside the loop. You also have to be careful with the glue not to splurge over the eye.