salokcinnodrog

The clip on mine fitted my storm poles and storm rods. The receiver clipped either at the end of my bed or next to the door was enough to wake me up. Ah, but at the same time, because the remote is not in his pocket never tempted to go a bit further away from the swim than he should... I have a mate who also sticks with (my) wired Delkim sounder box. He stays close to his rods unless he has reeled in. Too many times I have seen 'anglers' 3swims or more up the bank with the receiver in their pocket thinking it is ok.

With the plastic disc at the swivel on the lead, (originally done with the integral swivel in the lead), the direction of the take, straight away from the angler, or lift and turn etc will have the disc having force put on it at a different angle, before going upwards.

Hmm! A few points over various posts so I will have to try to remember them in some sort of order. The knotless knot as Leonard has said can be hit and miss. I noticed this on a water where I was casting a braided rig next to the rushes on a lake and could watch pick-ups at 10metres range. I watched 2 commons, both 8lb, so nothing massive, pick the bait up, take it right back, so the hook was definitely in the mouth and then see the whole lot come tumbling out of the mouth with just a single bleep. I had noticed a few single bleeps in other areas of the lake, and as there are plenty of silvers in the lake, put it down to them. The missing fish got me back going to the line aligner, exactly the same hooks, rig material, hair length. This was cast into the area where I saw the missed takes and along came the three fish. First take, short fat common, on the bank 8lb. Next trip, same area, the other common, a long thin one, 8lb. Strangely, I never saw their companion, a big mirror pick a hookbait up. I do not know why, but the line aligner, personally, I have found is more effective than a plain curved kicker turning the hook, with the exception of inturned eye patterns. The exception is extreme curves, Withy or Half-Withy pool style, but then you are looking at pop-up rig vs bottom baits. Pop-up rigs also work totally differently to bottom bait rigs. The washer on the lead, I saw years ago, must be early 80's something similar but for a totally different reason. A plastic disc on the pendant lead to prevent it sinking into silt. I found film canister lids very handy for that. With the lead fished (semi-) fixed, the disc would pull the lead the 'wrong way' as it tipped and dug into the silt, then the lead pops out.

Suffolk Water Park started today. Haven't heard about Bromeswell from Dave.

I mentioned in the past about Layer Pits who for a couple of years banned spodding hemp. For those years prepared hemp was added to Vitalin and catapulted in, until the ban was rescinded. With groundbait, Vitalin especially, you can put it in PVA mesh to get it near the hook bait if you don't like Method ball around the lead, or a water has a no free bait unless you put it in via PVA ban.

Bromeswell males have started shoaling up but not spawning, not seen anything on the park lake. It has been a few degrees warmer your way than East Anglia, a Tees/Exe divide.

Sorry, the post above and this are actually the wrong way round. I went to edit my post, but had problems so deleted and started again Years and years ago we had a thread discussing whether carp can detect electromagnetic impulses, I think the correct term, for finding live prey like bloodworms, mussels and the like, so how much this would translate to different metals (and carbon) being an attractant, I really don't know. I have lost a number of my Stonze, they got used as break away weights on weak links when pike fishing. Casting with a Stonze and a deadbait, I know I'm never going to cast perfectly straight. You do lose the occasional lead in fast rivers in snags you don't know exist, especially after a flood. Tackle strong enough to land the fish, which is most important with pike. You do NOT want to leave a hook and wire trace in a pike ever.  I use them for chub fishing as well, more so than lead weights. At times in a fast river a 1-2oz Stonze is better than a lead, looking more natural. I think my larger Stonze may end up being used in flooded rivers. Something going through my mind with Stonze though; they are also able to take on liquids, so they are either a porous stone, or ground stone and resin bound. If Simon Pomeroy has patented or registered the idea, then the sentence above could put the cat in the pigeons as I have come up with the idea independantly. If they are ground stone and resin bound, then you can adjust the shape, even perfectly round would be better! I have a mate who makes a lot of my leads for me; I think in my tackle box I have bought only pear and distance leads for a few years, because I found they were the best casting shapes. I do have a few others, that I found!  On most of my leads I cut the swivel off, I think the swivel allows extra movement which may be enough for a fish to use the lead to eject the hook. Going into rig evasion area here... I had to check the bumpf on Stonze after my thought above:

If the bream start, the tench then carp are often a few days behind. I think that was why my fishing was so quiet yesterday, the males shoaling up around the spawn areas instead of moving around the whole lake.

I tried using a Stonze on a small lake on a heli set-up, even over 30-40metres it swung in the air, you could see the direction changes. My larger 3 1/2- 4 1/2 oz Stonze have not even been used. Mike Wilson originally used Glass weights on Savay, he was concerned with the possibility of different metals, the swivel, the lead and hook creating an electrical field that repelled carp. I know he had great difficulties coming up with a glass that did not shatter on impact. I used to get 'rank' multifinish plaster and make weights out of it, always round ones with swivels as I had to work quickly to mould them by hand, but there must be a better way, a better material. I've used plasticine for small ledger weights for carp and chub in snaggy swims, normally rolled around the swivel mainline hooklink join.

Sorry I was a bit sharp, I have a tendency to say/post exactly as I think it. I agree with braid looping up, although I did find once it was wet I could rub mud or putty over it, the whole length, and it would sink. Short braid hooklinks loop up more than longer ones I think, but I tend to use braid in short lengths, normally a maximum 9inches anyway, mostly in PVA bags where I want the rig to be coiled, definitely not straight. I'm not sure about always fishing stiffer material on a helicopter lead set-up, this is where we have differing opinions, but it may be, because I prefer combi-rigs with a mono or fluoro stiff section on gravel, sand or clay, not silt, and always make them with a loop at the end, or use a ring swivel. If I can I prefer running leads with a slack line, however undertow can ruin that idea, so on the big fish water I end up fishing the tight line. This is where our opinions split apart again, as my big fish water has so many different features, from massive gravel bars, to weedbeds and silt patches, and I want the right rig for each as fish spend time on or in all of them. I could also find myself fishing another water over the causeway if the main water is crowded with anglers, hence plenty of rigs.

Loads of fly patterns have been brought into carp fishing. Think of the first, low water Salmon, albeit they did need trimming and soldering, then the B175 for the bent hook rigs. Without bending them I still like the B175 for pop-up rigs, and an extended shank with silicon (not shrink) tubing.

That looks like it should work very well, hope you do well with it. I've been saving my bread crusts recently for floater fishing, and using Bakers Meaty treats on the hook/hair. Good fun to have the bait lowered straight down from the rod tip to catch a carp.

An EU ruling is being planned or being discussed to ban lead weights, along with Simon Pomeroy (?), the boss of Pallatrax and Stonze making his views known in this country As much as I agree with some of what he has said regarding dropping lead weights, it has not helped that he was trying to give his own company an advantage, and Stonze can cast like a bag of spanners. Yes, you can cast them long distances, but you really need high test curve rods to cope with the overlarge size and non aerodynamic shape. @chillfactor and I have discussed this in the past, turning it into a joke with videos of toaster and sandwich maker casting. It has not been helped that manufacturers advocated dropping leads on the take; one certain tackle brand lake owner has or had rules in place that every lead must be dropped! There are alternatives in place, tungsten 'leads', but the cost of turning and shaping tungsten to make weights of identical sizes is prohibitive. I think there are very few tungsten weights around of more than 1ounce, almost every lead above 1.1ounce is made from lead.

Hopefully one day you will catch then. Different feeding situations, different lakes and lakebeds, even angling pressure may mean you need to change your rig(s), from hooklink material to rig length. I wouldn't fish a combi-rig over weed, whereas I would over gravel. In weed I will likely want a braided rig, whereas on gravel I might want a short stiff rig if I am feeding heavily. If all anglers are fishing rigs between 6-8inches, I might well want something longer or shorter.

Floating line, and the line rating 6/7 is what you want. You can confuse yourself as there are double tapers, weight forward, single taper. A single taper is thicker at one end, double taper is thicker in the middle along the length, and weight forward is the 'heavy end' is what you cast. You are probably best to get a double taper, and make sure that the reel has backing behind the flyline

For each 4 eggs put in say 10ml of Halibut Oil, and 20ml of Minamino. That way you don't have to worry about how much liquids to base mix, it comes right automatically

I would only use around 5-10ml of Halibut oil per 4 eggs. What I tend to do when making bait is work in 4 egg batches. Mix the eggs and liquids together, then add basemix until the dough consistency is right to roll. Going through a bait gun you want a softer mix than rolling with a bait table.

You can normally use a line one above or below the rod recommended. For floater fishing an intermediate or floating line, but with a floating hooklink. Hooklink choice, I like Drennan fly fishing hooklink mono, or Berkley XL. A few years ago Richard Gardner when he was regularly posting on here was doing quite a bit of fly fishing for carp, this was the thread he started. https://www.carp.com/topic/20139-richard-gardners-fly-fishing-for-carp/?tab=comments#comment-234942

Welcome to Carp.com. That is very basic, with the nuts will likely break down very quickly as water gets in, and is pretty much just attraction. The halibut oil level is too high. Drop the nuts, add 100g liver powder or fishmeal, maybe 100g Robin red reduce by 100g the semolina and soya flour and you will create a far better bait.

I honestly think that many flavours catch more anglers than fish, however there are some flavours that are genuine attractors or give a definite purpose. I have gone through both flavoured and unflavoured baits; some flavoured baits were not as effective as unflavoured baits, and some good unflavoured baits could be improved by adding a flavour or flavour and essential oil combination. Most of The better flavours to my mind come from natural products, the fruit ester, essential oil or dried and concentrated natural product. There are certain taste enhancers that give a definite edge to baits, Milk B+ was one, Nutrabaits followed this up with the Creamy Super Sweets, Cajoler and the Cajouser range. Sadly since Bill Cottam left I am not sure that things are all the same🙁🙄 I really would like to find it again, but years ago in a Bait * catalogue, I read about benefits of certain essential oils and their uses in the diet, and how they could work in baits. * I am positive it was one of the original Nutrabaits Bait catalogues, but no-one seems to have a copy of that year, or can't find that article, even Ken Townley or Bill Cottam.

As much as single sticks can be better if the swims are soft ground, mud, grass, even bark, some swims simply don't allow themselves to be fished with sticks as my bottom picture shows, and Commonly has said. A number of swims I fish are stagings like the bottom picture, or rock hard gravel on hardcore, so a pod is most definitely needed. You could on stagings resort to stage stands, but getting 4 or even 6 decent stage stands can be more expensive than buying a decent pod. I used to have a Cygnet pod myself, not a goalpost style, I did find them slightly unstable if the ground was not level, whereas the goalpost style was most definitely steadier, even if, as in my first post, the bottom picture, one side is higher as the staging isn't level. Another advantage to that low frame style is you can tie wrap to the chicken wire on the platform, or on the platform, with a cup hook screw to the wood; on softer ground a normal tent peg or two can be used to stabilise the pod to hold it in event of a take. The other thing I do like is a pod that can be used without the pod frame, but with banksticks and buzzer bars as Highy's bottom picture. On softer ground with the sticks level you create a firm stable set-up. Sorry for the photobomber, (😆😖 ) but you can see in this picture how stable 3 rods on those sticks and bars can be. I now own a Solar P1 pod, while it is a brilliant piece of kit, I actually end up having to use a pod almost all of the time, unless I do go to single sticks. Pods do have a disadvantage, getting your rod eye positioned just to the front of the alarm can be awkward. You are stuck as to a 'fixed' maximum length between front and rear bars. I had to put a (bright yellow😖😅 ) tie wrap on the butt of my RH rods to stop the rod sliding forward if the tips are low. On my Century NG's I had ball stops on the butts, which actually meant I did not need rear rod rests. The ball stop went into the thread hole, or with butt rests just behind the rest, so it was easy to prevent rod slip and still pick up the rod.

Currently I have been using single sticks as my rods are often pointed different directions. When I do fish a 2 rod water with my 3 rod pod I put the rods on the outer rests. In fact at times even on 3 rod waters if the swim is tight I might choose to only fish 2 rods.

Posts like this really make my day😀😉 You are welcome, glad we were able to help, now we would just like to see a few smiley photos😉😆

If you need to harden them use glycerine in the bait soak. Something I did long before the Kevin Nash baits was 'wash' my dried boilies in egg, with mixed in Betaine, then roll them in base mix. You could try mixing glycerine in with the egg, then rolling them in base mix. You should get a dissolving outer layer, with a harder inner boilie.

Do you drive? Reason I ask is that I used to go back to my car every day and charge my phone and ipad from my cigarette lighter. In some swims, I was actually been able to drive and park behind the swim.