salokcinnodrog

Once used they get cut down and I save swivels and rig rings. Old hooks go in a tin can, squashed down and into recycling bin. Swivels and rings can be reused. Hooklink material gets added to my line for recycling.

I've seen carp concentrate on one food item to the exclusion of others; bloodworm, pellets, even hemp. I've put boilies in when they are feeding on a visible patch of bloodworm, the boilies on the bloodworm bed were ignored totally. Hemp was fed as part of a particle mix, they totally cleared that up, ignoring the other particles and boilies. A few years back I fished Vitalin, sweetcorn and maize, with a few boilies in there, them and the boilie hookbait were ignored. I had to change to maize and sweetcorn to get a take.

Maggots you very rarely fish as an individual, you tend to fish a quantity, a pint minimum (usually) around your bait, and they create preoccupation. Maggots do have a reasonable protein composition. They consist of up to 60% of protein alone. Such animal protein is very suitable for animal nutrition, in fact, better suited than soya proteins. Tigers and peanuts, i'm sure I have said before, contain enzyme inhibitors. These inhibitors basically prevent digestion, but are addictive, so carp continue to feed on them even though no or limited nutrition is being provided.

That can be a bonus in itself, use unprepared maize to fill the ducks and swans up, it can be put on the bank rather than in the lake. Because ducks and swans do have stomachs, it does swell up, once they are full they just go mooch and 'sleep it off'. I'm not sure on the digestion of maize, i'm sure it is mostly broken down by the pharyngeal teeth before swallowing. However, I am sure it is more attractive and more nutritional once it has been soaked and boiled. If it is sprouted then I think it is at its best. I'm sure a number of fisheries use raw wheat grain to supplement fish diets. With nuts, grains and legumes that are not broken into pieces, only the outside is giving nutrients. The rest is contained inside the unbroken pieces. I think you will find that is why despite peanuts being rich in Vitamin E that vitamin is unable to be used. Even in our acid rich stomachs, you will excrete peanuts, tiger nuts, sweetcorn or unchewed grains. In sweetcorn you excrete it almost exactly as it goes in. The carp's alimentary canal can only take nutrients from ingestion to excretion, (sounds obvious), and they will eat until the nutritional need is fulfilled, not, being as they don't have one, their stomach is full, which we do as humans.

In order to raise money to fence a fishery and to raise money to replace fish lost to disease, Julian Cundiff is doing a tuition or two.

Confidence is everything😉 I've said in the past I don't think fishmeals are the be all and end all, I found a meat based protein as effective on a few waters where fishmeals were supposedly best. In fact on one of them, I know how a fishmeal bait dominated proceedings for a number of years. One thing I think with milk proteins, they need to be able to be digested. A standard milk protein, just powders, needs an 'active' protease enzyme to break them down or they are no better than other baits. I'll put this here for you: "Dairy Protein Digestion: Life in the Slow Lane Proteins take longer to digest in the stomach than do carbohydrates, and milk contains some of the slowest digesting proteins. Casein proteins are soluble in milk but form insoluble curds once they reach the stomach, making it hard for digestive enzymes to break them apart." I know carp don't have stomachs, so their digestion is as it goes through the alimentary canal and intestines. DT Baits N-Blend may be close to what you are looking for, or possibly Rod Hutchinson Ballistic B

I get the same feeling, although it usually happens to me when I can't fish my big fish water as I don't like many of my local waters. I enjoy the challenge of trying to 'beat' the 100 odd carp in 60 acres, but I just enjoy being there as well. My local waters, only one really floats my boat, maybe because I do the occasional bit of work on there and is an almost guaranteed catch pit, although I rarely do nights after fish only just going to mid doubles. Thinking about it, I could go for the challenge of a 300acre plus water with unknown stocks! I do fish fish for other species at times, pike in winter from October (if it is cold enough, later in the year if not), roach, bream and tench or even just plain silver fish from March to June, and definitely some chub fishing when the rivers are open. I don't want to give up my Nazeing ticket, but circumstances this year may mean I do for a year at least as I simply can't afford it. Ultimately, I personally found carp fishing has become stale, maybe down to the increased numbers of anglers and media coverage, so the other fishing mixes it up and keeps me excited.

Bromeswell is quite silty, a sand and clay ledge around the outside, as I know from having jumped in there in a hurry. You can't fish the middle with a 'standard' set up, although I haven't yet fished a paternoster link there yet. The crays can be a pain on the sand, but I think have just shelled and gone into hiding, and the carp were happier to feed on the harder areas. I'm now positive (after something that @nigewoodcock said) that larger crays feeding heavily and getting defensive, rearing up, can put the carp off some areas. If the crays are feeding heavily, I have caught few carp off that spot, yet for some reason pop-ups on chods were catching them, yet ordinary pendant leads and pop-up rigs weren't. I have a theory that the carp being caught were those swimming or patrolling the margins yesterday, just alongside a lily bed and next to a clay patch.

I've used Chods (unwillingly I might add) a bit this year, and they seem to have a finite life on the lake I'm fishing. I know the great (sorry for the sarcasm😖😆) JS has used them to catch a few big carp. For a couple of trips chods were the only way I could catch fish, either with Plum or Pineapple pop-ups and a few freebies around. Then the lake switched on with Dave outcatching me on the Method, which I tried a couple of times, on one rod, but 'my' fish yesterday all came on wafters over a few loose freebies each cast on a multi-rig or kebab rig, with different shaped and sized dumbell baits. The chod rig has been ignored totally for a couple of trips. The runs I was getting on Chods were proper runs, but I did lose a couple of fish to hookpulls. I went back yesterday to a pendant lead, a 'shocka', set to pull free and become a 'running' lead on the take. Not a single lost fish, but I did get a couple of slack line drop backs as the indicator pulled free of the line. No large fish over 8lb, but I tend to use Bromeswell to experiment.

Really? I used a short 4inch rig to cast around 30 yards to an tree lined undercut corner margin. I wanted, even needed a short rig to avoid tangles, from going in the trees. It had only been in the water 5minutes.

The only thing I can think of is this: https://www.fishingtackleandbait.co.uk/en/gb/Wychwood-Specimen-Quickfold-Landing-Net---Green-22-inches/s-42123-61774.aspx?PartnerID=279&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=UnitedKingdom&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIytz2uP6n4gIVr73tCh1BPQ5IEAQYASABEgLxSvD_BwE

The clip on mine fitted my storm poles and storm rods. The receiver clipped either at the end of my bed or next to the door was enough to wake me up. Ah, but at the same time, because the remote is not in his pocket never tempted to go a bit further away from the swim than he should... I have a mate who also sticks with (my) wired Delkim sounder box. He stays close to his rods unless he has reeled in. Too many times I have seen 'anglers' 3swims or more up the bank with the receiver in their pocket thinking it is ok.

With the plastic disc at the swivel on the lead, (originally done with the integral swivel in the lead), the direction of the take, straight away from the angler, or lift and turn etc will have the disc having force put on it at a different angle, before going upwards.

Hmm! A few points over various posts so I will have to try to remember them in some sort of order. The knotless knot as Leonard has said can be hit and miss. I noticed this on a water where I was casting a braided rig next to the rushes on a lake and could watch pick-ups at 10metres range. I watched 2 commons, both 8lb, so nothing massive, pick the bait up, take it right back, so the hook was definitely in the mouth and then see the whole lot come tumbling out of the mouth with just a single bleep. I had noticed a few single bleeps in other areas of the lake, and as there are plenty of silvers in the lake, put it down to them. The missing fish got me back going to the line aligner, exactly the same hooks, rig material, hair length. This was cast into the area where I saw the missed takes and along came the three fish. First take, short fat common, on the bank 8lb. Next trip, same area, the other common, a long thin one, 8lb. Strangely, I never saw their companion, a big mirror pick a hookbait up. I do not know why, but the line aligner, personally, I have found is more effective than a plain curved kicker turning the hook, with the exception of inturned eye patterns. The exception is extreme curves, Withy or Half-Withy pool style, but then you are looking at pop-up rig vs bottom baits. Pop-up rigs also work totally differently to bottom bait rigs. The washer on the lead, I saw years ago, must be early 80's something similar but for a totally different reason. A plastic disc on the pendant lead to prevent it sinking into silt. I found film canister lids very handy for that. With the lead fished (semi-) fixed, the disc would pull the lead the 'wrong way' as it tipped and dug into the silt, then the lead pops out.

Suffolk Water Park started today. Haven't heard about Bromeswell from Dave.

I mentioned in the past about Layer Pits who for a couple of years banned spodding hemp. For those years prepared hemp was added to Vitalin and catapulted in, until the ban was rescinded. With groundbait, Vitalin especially, you can put it in PVA mesh to get it near the hook bait if you don't like Method ball around the lead, or a water has a no free bait unless you put it in via PVA ban.

Bromeswell males have started shoaling up but not spawning, not seen anything on the park lake. It has been a few degrees warmer your way than East Anglia, a Tees/Exe divide.

Sorry, the post above and this are actually the wrong way round. I went to edit my post, but had problems so deleted and started again Years and years ago we had a thread discussing whether carp can detect electromagnetic impulses, I think the correct term, for finding live prey like bloodworms, mussels and the like, so how much this would translate to different metals (and carbon) being an attractant, I really don't know. I have lost a number of my Stonze, they got used as break away weights on weak links when pike fishing. Casting with a Stonze and a deadbait, I know I'm never going to cast perfectly straight. You do lose the occasional lead in fast rivers in snags you don't know exist, especially after a flood. Tackle strong enough to land the fish, which is most important with pike. You do NOT want to leave a hook and wire trace in a pike ever.  I use them for chub fishing as well, more so than lead weights. At times in a fast river a 1-2oz Stonze is better than a lead, looking more natural. I think my larger Stonze may end up being used in flooded rivers. Something going through my mind with Stonze though; they are also able to take on liquids, so they are either a porous stone, or ground stone and resin bound. If Simon Pomeroy has patented or registered the idea, then the sentence above could put the cat in the pigeons as I have come up with the idea independantly. If they are ground stone and resin bound, then you can adjust the shape, even perfectly round would be better! I have a mate who makes a lot of my leads for me; I think in my tackle box I have bought only pear and distance leads for a few years, because I found they were the best casting shapes. I do have a few others, that I found!  On most of my leads I cut the swivel off, I think the swivel allows extra movement which may be enough for a fish to use the lead to eject the hook. Going into rig evasion area here... I had to check the bumpf on Stonze after my thought above:

If the bream start, the tench then carp are often a few days behind. I think that was why my fishing was so quiet yesterday, the males shoaling up around the spawn areas instead of moving around the whole lake.

I tried using a Stonze on a small lake on a heli set-up, even over 30-40metres it swung in the air, you could see the direction changes. My larger 3 1/2- 4 1/2 oz Stonze have not even been used. Mike Wilson originally used Glass weights on Savay, he was concerned with the possibility of different metals, the swivel, the lead and hook creating an electrical field that repelled carp. I know he had great difficulties coming up with a glass that did not shatter on impact. I used to get 'rank' multifinish plaster and make weights out of it, always round ones with swivels as I had to work quickly to mould them by hand, but there must be a better way, a better material. I've used plasticine for small ledger weights for carp and chub in snaggy swims, normally rolled around the swivel mainline hooklink join.

Sorry I was a bit sharp, I have a tendency to say/post exactly as I think it. I agree with braid looping up, although I did find once it was wet I could rub mud or putty over it, the whole length, and it would sink. Short braid hooklinks loop up more than longer ones I think, but I tend to use braid in short lengths, normally a maximum 9inches anyway, mostly in PVA bags where I want the rig to be coiled, definitely not straight. I'm not sure about always fishing stiffer material on a helicopter lead set-up, this is where we have differing opinions, but it may be, because I prefer combi-rigs with a mono or fluoro stiff section on gravel, sand or clay, not silt, and always make them with a loop at the end, or use a ring swivel. If I can I prefer running leads with a slack line, however undertow can ruin that idea, so on the big fish water I end up fishing the tight line. This is where our opinions split apart again, as my big fish water has so many different features, from massive gravel bars, to weedbeds and silt patches, and I want the right rig for each as fish spend time on or in all of them. I could also find myself fishing another water over the causeway if the main water is crowded with anglers, hence plenty of rigs.

Loads of fly patterns have been brought into carp fishing. Think of the first, low water Salmon, albeit they did need trimming and soldering, then the B175 for the bent hook rigs. Without bending them I still like the B175 for pop-up rigs, and an extended shank with silicon (not shrink) tubing.

That looks like it should work very well, hope you do well with it. I've been saving my bread crusts recently for floater fishing, and using Bakers Meaty treats on the hook/hair. Good fun to have the bait lowered straight down from the rod tip to catch a carp.

An EU ruling is being planned or being discussed to ban lead weights, along with Simon Pomeroy (?), the boss of Pallatrax and Stonze making his views known in this country As much as I agree with some of what he has said regarding dropping lead weights, it has not helped that he was trying to give his own company an advantage, and Stonze can cast like a bag of spanners. Yes, you can cast them long distances, but you really need high test curve rods to cope with the overlarge size and non aerodynamic shape. @chillfactor and I have discussed this in the past, turning it into a joke with videos of toaster and sandwich maker casting. It has not been helped that manufacturers advocated dropping leads on the take; one certain tackle brand lake owner has or had rules in place that every lead must be dropped! There are alternatives in place, tungsten 'leads', but the cost of turning and shaping tungsten to make weights of identical sizes is prohibitive. I think there are very few tungsten weights around of more than 1ounce, almost every lead above 1.1ounce is made from lead.

Hopefully one day you will catch then. Different feeding situations, different lakes and lakebeds, even angling pressure may mean you need to change your rig(s), from hooklink material to rig length. I wouldn't fish a combi-rig over weed, whereas I would over gravel. In weed I will likely want a braided rig, whereas on gravel I might want a short stiff rig if I am feeding heavily. If all anglers are fishing rigs between 6-8inches, I might well want something longer or shorter.