salokcinnodrog

Have a look at these threads regarding Fluorocarbons: http://www.carp.com/forum/t17040/s.html http://www.carp.com/forum/t11673/s.html http://www.carp.com/forum/t16933/s.html Loads of views on these threads from different people, they cover knots, when people use them and length. A simple Knotless knot presentation and/or Line Aligner is the easiest to tie.

For pop-ups try tying a loop at the end of the hair using a Uni or Grinner knot. Then put a pop-up bait in the loop and tighten it down. You can then just put the hook on with a Normal Knotless knot. Easy enough to change the bait then:D I don't think that any bait that is punctured will stay the same as you are making a spot where water can get into the Bait. That is the same for bottom baits or Pop-ups. Look how soft bottom baits can get after being put on the hair and taking in water. The only time I really use a D-rig is with Snowman presentations, although it does work well with Pop-ups. I just use Pop-ups so infrequently on my Normal water because I want my Hookbait to be the same as my Free Offerings.

As Courtz says, 10lb of Leader Strength per ounce of Lead wiith Nylon Leaders, but if you decide to use a Braided Shockleader then DOUBLE that, as there is NO stretch. Also with a Braided Leader I would recommend using a Finger Stall. I use Drennan 40lb Greased Weasel in Grey or Amnesia for Shockleaders, but other people recommend Tapered Leaders. I have tried them but can't get on with them If you don't use a Shockleader then steveofar has highlighted what happens with a CrackOff, and a Crackoff can travel FOUR OR FIVE times or even more the distance of your normal cast. So imaging you are casting 120metres, a Crackoff could travel 600metres, that is nearly HALF a MILE.

Fair opinion, at least you give a reason for disliking it. Fly fisherman huh? Nothing wrong with that, been known to fling a few feathers and fur about myself. For leaders for that I use Drennan Double strength or their Flyline Mono. I have also used Clear Amnesia when attaching a wire trace for Fly Fishing for Pike. Like you I worry about the fracture caused by the Fluorocarbon twisting over itself. I think the problem with Fluorocarbon is that there are so many different types/brands and all have different recommendations as to knots and BS. The same line from 2 Suppliers could have 2 different Breaking Strains dependant on who is marketing it. Its just finding out what suits you, and that can get expensive.

I used to use it years ago as a Shockleader and never had any problems with it. It just looks like a pale weed stem in the water as long as it is not fished too tight. One thing I would say though is the majority of the time I fish with very slack lines. Another thing I would cover it up with tubing near the Lead, as I have heard that it can get underneath scales and ping them off.

You may find that you are losing Indication and possibly Takes by the Front of the Lead and the Rig Swivel bedding into the Clay, effectively shortening your Hooklength. I would suggest that you change to a Helicopter or Pendant style Lead arrangement depending on the Distance you are fishing at. Depending on Water Clarity you may find a hooklength that is camouflaged, but Clay waters tend to be fairly coloured so fish with what ever Hooklink material you are comfortable with. For clay I have found that Kryston Silkworm, Supersilk and Mantis Gold are pretty well matched to the colour of the Lakebed. Supersilk may look a bit bright white, but it takes on the colour of the Lakebed and so camouflages itself. If you prefer Fluorocarbons or Mono Hooklengths fish with them. Just keep your rigs fairly simple, knotless knot and/or Line Aligner. The easiest things to change to increase takes are the length of the rig and/or the hair.

Is that the BFA Deception that was around or the new one Ian? I did like the BFA version, then it got hard to get hold of. I think I have had 1 maybe 2 hookpulls on the Nailers in 4years. The hookpull I think was down to me fishing too short a hair, as once I lengthened it I haven't lost a fish due to that since. They are spot on, very sharp and stay in.

Buzzbomb, Good to see innovation has not been lost Any bottle will do. I use to use Shampoo Bottles or Washing Up Liquid Bottles and cut the top off. Cut a piece of Foam or Polystyrene to the inside diameter of the Bottle and push it to the Bottom. At the top I would then drill 3 equidistant holes and using 15kg Amnesia, crimp 3 lengths through the Holes. Tie a swivel to the 3 lengths and then cover with Silicone Rig Tubing for tidiness.

Depends How long my hooklinks are! If I fish with a short 10-15cms hooklength I'll normally use about a 30cms. If I go up to using 60cm hooklengths then I'll use 120cm of tubing.

Sorry I disagree with having No Shockleader. I put a 4metre Length of 30lb Amnesia at the End of the Braid. Reason being with a Shockleader you have a Margin for Error and some stretch. If you mistime a Cast with No Shockleader you can cut your finger through to the Bone. If you crack off with just Braid you may well have lost a lot of Braid, but if you have a Crack Off with a shockleader the Chances are it will go at the knot joining the 2 together.

Not sure about that Coops. I have used In-lines a Lot in weed and had no problems. Maybe it's the way I use them in PVA bags. I put the hook and Bait in one corner and the Lead in the other, then fill bag with bait and close the top of the Bag around the Tubing. The Braided Rig is close to the Lead so I get quick indication. Even with stringers I had no problems, again maybe down to my way of attaching stringers. PVA tied/looped through the Swivel and hook. I.e Double your PVA and loop it through swivel, then back through loop. Attach bait to stringer then put hook through the PVA itself. I used In-lines at SWP and had no problems with Weed getting stuck on the Lead as I reeled in. Pendant Leads and Lead Clips I have found to jam up, even if fished properly as stated on Manufacturers packing, with the rubber only just holding the Lead on. I have even resorted to tying the Lead on in weed and had no Problems. I have lost fish with Helicopter set-ups, where the angle of Line on rig swivel has chafed across the tubing. Also I found Bite Indication far reduced with Helicopter set-ups, maybe it is down to Pressured Fish feeling for the Lead? I also found that in weed the Helicopter set up with the Lead trailing the Fish kept the fish lower in the water than an "Normal" up the line Lead Attachment. Mind you for the past few year I have been using Running Leads in Weed or near snags and can't remember the last time I lost a fish. A big Solar Run Ring doesn't get jammed up with Weed and The Ressie is very weedy in places. Think we'll get different answers on this, probably down to the way each of us fishes and has found to work for them;) :D

It is not particularly suitable for use in weedy waters. You are creating an angle across the lead/line as you are playing a fish. You risk more fish snagging up/snap off using the Helicopter set-ups in weed. Far better to use an IN-LINE set-up, as the Lead does not get snagged up in weed. Weed just slides over the Lead. Even a Pendant set-up with a Safety Clip can cause problems in weedy waters.

Only as a weak link, same as tying a lead on for weed.

You can learn a hell of a lot from Books. Like the fact that Rod Hutchinson recommended Suspended Baits in The Carp Strikes Back about 20 YEARS AGO. And also for doubling up on Paternoster Lengths when you fish Paternosted Floating Baits. He recommended the Use of a Fixed and a Bolt Rig for Suspended Baits, as he called them, not a Blooming Zig Rig He also recommended using 1-3lb line for 2-3 oz Leads. Just attach it with PVA when Casting, lol and it doesn't break

Prefer Solar Tubing Myself, nicely matches the Lake bed. I think they also have the distribution on the Armourtube which I have used.

I just use a Thumbnail. If you get a pair of those plastic Child Safety scissors they are supposed to be good for breaking the coating.

Have a look at Carp-R-Us Nailers, they are available in Barbed and Barbless. I used them at Earith a couple of years ago, due to the Barbless only Rule. I liked them so much after use that I use them for a lot of my fishing now by choice. Over 2 years I had 1hookpull on them, and that could have been my fault as I put a lot of pressure on to hold a fish away from a reedbed. (may have been a rig problem though). Either way after lengthening the hair I didn't lose another fish. In 2 seasons I lost count of the fish I landed on them it was so many. The biggest Carp I landed on them was a 25lb Common, with no problems Longshank Nailer for Pop-ups and ordinary Nailer for Bottom Baits.

Fox, and Carp-R-us Shrink Tube are the best 2 I have found.

Wasn't the original Multistrand by Nash and had to be split down for use as it had a Green weave through some of it? Snakebite, Multistrand with a coating, untwisted.

You must have gone forward onto it. and just stopped there. Besides, how many people got on with it effectively? easy to tangle unless you take care with Superstiff or thick tubing and Stringers. Not many people took the trouble to think about it's use. Less pressure on Multistrand users to be different as the lack of numbers using it mean its different anyway. :D Seriously why change something that works for you?

I have a 3rd edition I was very kindly given. Carp Fever, while about fishing in the 70's and 80's, much/most of it is still relevant today. Kevin Maddocks and the other contributors were responsible for some of the most important advances in Carp Fishing. Their Bait Development, Hair rig Invention and even Tackle Development are still in use today. Kevin Maddocks was streets ahead of some of the other names when it came to catching fish and his ideas that would put fish on the Bank. Rod Hutchinson's "The Carp Strikes Back" is another book that even today is a must read. His Bait knowledge and research are still in use today as well. Dacron is really the first step out from Mono Hooklinks that were in use, as there were few viable alternatives; although Richard Walker had used Braided Nylon as it was not so stiff as MonoFilament. If you think about it we are heading back full circle and the Pressure Cycle is trying to confuse the Carp as to what they are used to picking up. After Dacron do you go back or forward to Multistrand? lol:D :D

Kryston Super Mantis in either Gold or original, depending on the Bottom colour.

Or as Jemsue says, use a piece of Shrink Tubing over the eye, another pic attached. This rig has accounted for a 23.8 Fully scaled from my Reservoir. The hook is a Size 8 Carp-R-Us Nailer.

Pic attached, simple Hair rig tied with 15lb Kryston Merlin. Size 8 swivel, Mustad hook ( pre-release sample) knotless knotted and hair formed from continuation of braid. Incidentally this is actually one of my Bench Test rigs, not one I've used in actual fishing. Although I use the same rig, just not with the Hook shown, I have been using Carp-R-Us Nailers for my actual fishing. The hooks have now been released and there is a thread on Mustad Carp hooks

Nice to see a debate on zig rig hooklengths that doesn't degenerate into Name Calling! I must admit that I use the Carp-R-Us Clearwater Fluorocarbon as it has stretch and no memory, although in the past I have used Match Hooklengths. The only reason I changed is because on 1 water I fish the Carp are heavily fished for by Match Anglers with suspended baits, so I looked for something different from what they were doing.