salokcinnodrog

Also the Chod thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?p=524723#524723 and Lead Set-ups: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603

Chris, I don't care how upset a subject makes you, but if you ever use language like that again it will be your last post. Because of that I have locked this thread and deleted the post. Gaz took the effort to put a lot of links to other leadcore threads on this thread (just down the page), can I suggest that views go on one of them please: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=49805, but this link is probably one of the best anbd comes complete with some pics of how dangerous leadcore can be: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=40711&highlight=leadcore

Is this (and the other link on that thread) any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=42729

A whole thread devoted to "Chod" rigs, and boy do I hate that name still: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=36456 When there is an existing thread it is easy enough to post on it to get up to date information Even more so when it is in the Carp Fishing Stickies section for regularly asked or repeated questions I've done a copy and paste

Honest it is dead easy As simple and as basic as tying a knotless knot to a length of hooklink material and then putting a pop-up on the hair. You can use a stop knot or shot (personally rather not use shot though), and mould putty around it to get the pop-up balanced. The link referred to: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

Best advice, DON'T buy any at all. There are loads of leadcore threads with the fors and against, but why use a product that adds extra risks into your fishing? In fact a product which lets you down every time you hook a fish

Test as in how they look and behave underwater? Or test as in how much strain they will take? Whatever you learn from a tank/bucket may well be different out in the depths of the pond, there are too many variables. The weed may affect the behaviour of the hookbait, the depth may affect the buoyancy of a pop-up or the lakebed may "clog up" how a hook is taken in in relation to the bait. In most cases the best rig is the most simple knotless knotted hook with a hair; usually a continuation of the hooklink material The Palm or Over the Thumb Tests will only teach you what you think you want to know ; That the hook goes in and will flip over or will drag into the fishes mouth. The real test is whether it produces fish on the bank. From that look at each hookhold and see if anything needs changing. If the hook is at the extreme edge of the lips or you are getting hookpulls then lengthen the hair and/or rig length. If at the back of the mouth then shorten either or both. If the hook is dead centre of the bottom lip then you have it pretty much spot on. If you are testing for breaking strain, then simply tie your knots and put as much strain as you can on the knots, being careful NOT to hook yourself in the process. I tie a knot in my hooklink be it at hook end or swivel/quick link and put the hook in the eye of a pair of forceps and pull as hard as I can. The swivel is then tied to the mainline and I do the same to that to check it.

Cross purposes maybe, but think about the Spinlink or other clip lead attachment at the end of the leadcore or leader splice. Spliced loop into leadlink of whatever sort, now go up a little bit. Remove Lead attachment, and bottom bead/rubber will now slide down over the self spliced loop, and above that you have your rig, which will now also slide down over the loop. Slide on fresh rig, bead/rubber, attach lead link of whatever type back into the splice via loop to loop method and there you have a fairly quick change rig set up. Does that now make sense? A good splice will never give way (I can in fact make spliced hooklinks in some braided hooklinks with no knots )

I'm not advocating leadcore, but think about a large spliced loop at the lead end of a braided leader Works with heli set-ups to hold a lead, through a (sea fishing) spinlink clip and lead onto that, or with the braided leader to hold a rig swivel If you make up your PVA mesh/stick with rig attached then hook in at the base next to the knot, push swivel through the top end of the mesh as you knot it, although you may end up with glob of dissolved PVA on hooklink Or have a rig longer than your tube, hook in first (bait can be attached before or after if you pull the hair outside the mesh with a (Gardner) baiting needle) and the swivel outside the top end, but push the PVA filling down alongside the rig and you would knot the top end anyway. Does that help any?

Peperami, basically a trade name of a processed meaty sausage Chorizo, salami pretty much all the same thing. I've used peperami, but don't catch many on it, since I seem to end up eating the stuff

I simply can't get an overhand knot down tight to the end of (pva) mesh, down to badly mishaped past broken fingers. So instead of pulling it down tight, I cut a notch from the top of the filling to the end of the mesh outwards (if that makes sense), and then double overhand knot the mesh. The 1st knot pulls into the top of the filling and then the second knot secures it.

Yes, and in most cases work a whole lot better than a Chod style set-up Something that may interest you http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=49225

really? I thought the idea was the line below the chod sank into the muck and left the mainline at the chod free. The way you say it the bait would be hanging off the back of a mini flagpole in the silt - I dunno I like that method! A case of fish being caught despite the rig set-up

I'm not a fan of quick links, and won't use them. All my PVA bag rigs are pretty standard, and if I put the hooklink inside the bag always made of braid Knotless knotted or line aligned hook tied to swivel, length dependant on how I feel the fish are feeding. While a short hooklink is pretty standard it is one thing that you can play around with. As much as I like a balanced or buoyant bait at times, the hookbait wafting up and around can leave you with a hooklink sticking out, whereas if it is camouflaged under a pile of food as a bottom bait usually ends up it may not be so obvious. Are these any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27183 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32920

Posts like this make my day, Thank You Something else for you, that I didn't think of at the time; A pop-up rig in most cases I would fish the bait tight to the hook shank, whether the fish suck in or mouth the bait you want the 2 close together to be taken in, yet with a bottom bait you may find that a large separation is better

Good advice from zammo. If the answer is no, or maybe...don't be afraid to experiment. It's interesting that you are having one on pop up and one on bottom baits. Generally choose one or other. If you don't have debris, weed, silt on the bottom there no need to have a pop up... They just look odd. by all means have something buoyant in the rig to make the bottom bait critically balanced...but don't have it floating three inches above the deck Equally if you have all of the above, try a pop up to present over the top of it. But don't feel you need a pop up just because the mags say you should use a pop rig. I re tied all of my rods today co incidentally ready for the spring period. I have one ready for maggots (supple braid) one ready for a balanced bait (flouro to braid combi) and a chod as a roving bait. The first two will be fished over bait and the chod will be a single that I cast at showing fish. By May I will re tie them all again, as i change my approach as the water heats up. On both my rods I will use the same type of rigs as I used last year, and neither will be a pop-up rig (snowman maybe ). The rigs I used 2 years ago produced fish that hadn't been caught before or for a long time, from pressured swims and were different to other anglers, and I will use the same style all the way through the year. The one thing I will say, don't confuse yourself with rigs, in most cases a standard knotless knotted rig will work, for bottom baits and pop-ups, although if the fish are getting away with it (or not getting a good hookhold), then a play with rig, hair length or line aligner setup may be beneficial. That standard rig will produce loads of fish, the thing you have to get right is the feeding situation. Just because a lake may be silty does not mean that you have to use a chod rig It may well present a bait above the silt, but why would you want to do that when the fish actually feed in it? Same as why present a bait in the silt if they prefer to feed on top of it? A blatant pop-up can be a danger signal to some fish, thats whether it is a hi visibility or overflavoured bait, or even a food source pop-up. It may be that you are fishing a pop-up above their heads when they are comfortably feeding on the deck. A carp may well not know that the bait is 5centimetres above the lakebed, but if its mouth is down on the lakebed it may well not even take it as its not where it is feeding. Yet if you have a high amount of weed with food trapped at various heights in the weed growth the carp will take a pop-up at whatever height

Totally slack on the lakebed going into every trough and crevice and still running slack to the end tackle? NO! Leadcore does not go into every crevice, it is not supple enough, and fished on a tight line will be lifting up to the rod tip in an arc, same with tubing, even with flying backleads or putty, in fact you can be lifting the putty up if you have the line at all taut. If you want tubing, mainline or that poxy leadcore to just lay flat along the lakebed then you will need a slack line If there are any lifts then you may as well accept that by tightening up with a backlead, putty or anything then the line will be pulled tight over that emergant feature.

I think everyone and his dog know my views on Leadcore (I hate the stuff), but I have to give the option for people to choose. I can definitely see the side on bead in this instance, and Beanz and I have had a discussion about another rig published where a bead appeared to be pierced sideways (it wasn't). I think that that is in itself part of the "instant" problem, the relative ease of which the Chod rig is seen as the be all and end all answer to carp fishing. The actual rig I wanted Danny to look at was this one: Helicopter Silt Rig Set-UP: It then gives the option of using a leadcore or fluoro leader if required (which as most seem to agree is not), or tubing, which as long as all the beads and swivel should be able to slide up and over any knot the fish is not trailing any dangerous tackle which may cause a tethering in the event of a break-off

Si, I'm glad the dog is ok, don't beat yourself up over it, these things happen, just from a moments "inattention" a dog can do all manner of things. There is a good note in all this though, you know that your bait will work, although I have found cats to be even better bait testers than dogs who often eat absolutely anything *edited for typo*

Danny, Please, can you use the search facility a little bit http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=36456 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 The top thread is entitled Chod Rigs, and is in the Stickies section, with a link to some lead set-ups, which is the 2nd link I have given

Rig Pic somewhere on here: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=42302 Only thing I've changed is the hook pattern as I haven't been able to get hold of FLB's locally and so moved over to Gamakatsu G-point GP204's and Gardner Muggas

I love the chipped orange tip of an old Porcupine quill myself Lift float method fished slightly overdepth, and if you are quiet enough its easy enough to present the float in and then slide the float up on a single float band to the depth without scaring the fish. I tend to use the mainline to hooklink join (swivel or knot) as the place to put the weight, be it shot or putty.

A chapter that Ken Townley wrote in Tim Paisleys Big Carp shows how rigs are almost irrelevant in a fishing situation. He tied a rig up as he had been shown at Savay, so I presume it was the original Savay Looney rig, the extended hookshank being achieved by a length of tubing, and fished it on his local water. The carp in the lake were able to eject the hook on many occasions, in fact he had less than 50% hook-up. He tried again, by changing the pattern, still not effective. He then went back to his standard set-up, which I believe from memory was a critically balanced bait with the hair extension tag being used to hold the counterweight. That rig landed most of the takes he had on that water, and he had been watching pick-ups to runs and ejection from above the water. Now the KD rig is just the current fashion rig that the magazines are publishing, its slightly different from the knotless knotted rig. Yet years ago when Jim Gibbinson was playing with rigs in an attempt to recreate the effects of the Bent Hook rig that was causing damage he found that by using what has become termed the "Line aligner", he converted far more pick ups than a standard hook tied on with a hair. The Line aligner has faded out of fashion, maybe because the knotless knot is easy to tie and in theory the hook should turn, flip and get a hookhold, especially with the curved shank patterns we are using. Now I fully admit that at the moment the rigs I'm using are far more complicated than the KD rig, strange, considering I'm the person who started the "Complicated rigs" thread , and I will also say , that if you create or tie a rig, then in most cases the reason it often fails is because the feeding situation is not in such a state to get the fish feeding comfortably, as a result many rigs are not working as effectively as they could.

snowman rig I've read is best in the mid winter and I'm going to try it in the summer. The Snowman presentation is good all the year around. It is basically a larger bait on the bottom of the hair (nearest the hook) and a smaller "top" bait; It could be a 6mm pop-up over an 8mm bottom bait, or even a piece of (fake) corn on top of a boilie. Just getting the 2 balanced usually so that the bait isn't fished "popped-up". As for pop-ups themselves it could be that you are trying to fish a bait above the bottom debris like leaves or twigs, or that you are presenting a bait "in their face", be it a hi-attract or food source bait. I'm the same as Jemsue, I have had big fish on pop-ups but because I have gotten a food source bait working prefer to fish bottom (food source) baits or snowman set-up, usually a piece of corn or bright bait as a "sight stop" if I do fish a snowman.

Simples Get a piece of rigid tubing, 2 soft rubber beads, a tail rubber if you want the "semi-fixed" effect of the rubber holding the tubing onto the lead attachment and a ring swivel. A soft rubber bead at either end of the tubing with the rig on the ring swivel in between the two, (the large ring on the tubing). If you want it held in place on the lead attachment (a quick link clip on swivel works as well as anything), then the tail rubber will hold it onto the swivel and also hold the lead in place I played with the idea years ago, and I mean years ago (at least 10) so have some pictures somewhere, even if they were using some darn awful Nash Outpoint hooks as my idea gathering