salokcinnodrog

It is not a new thread, but is this any help? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=42486&highlight=yew+tree

A number of reasons for hookpulls, and even how much you feed could be part of it. You are getting takes, but the fish aren't confident, so it could be a case of making more food available so the fish are competing for it, or aren't as wary. Usually the first thing I do when I get hookpulls is simply to lengthen the hair. I work on the theory that if I am hooking deeply in the mouth then the hair and/or rig length is too long. If in the bottom dead centre the hair is right, and if I'm losing fish then the hair is too short. I noticed that you are fishing fluorocarbon hooklinks, it may be that the rig and hair is too stiff, especially if you are fishing a knotless knot continuation hair. It could be a case that simply by changing to a more supple hooklink or even just hair material you solve the problem. This fashion for fishing the hair leaving the hook at the base of the bend of the hook is also a possibility. Have a look at this: , that may explain hookpulls. I did however notice your last post, and they are occuring when playing the fish, usually to me that is a sign that you are giving the fish a lot of "teddy", (as per my last few fish losses), especially when they are close to the net. The rods may not be at fault, but simply that you are trying to force them in, not allowing the fish to take line when they are too fresh during the fight. Not necessarily slacken off, but don't try to play them so hard, give a little line, let the fish have its head, play around and gain line when they let you, not attempting to gain line all the time, if that makes sense. The hookhold in that case may be a factor, the pressure during the fight from a bait that has not been taken in and then you are really adding to a "weak" hookhold is simply pulling the hook out, so again, look at hair length.

I've had a look round recently and there is nothing new in terms of ownership of the lake, they are still owned and run as Breakaway Fisheries, Brick Kiln Farm, Melton Lakes. The Match Lake is 1 rod only and no boilies, barbless hooks only. An adult Day Ticket, 1 Rod (on either lake) is £6 if purchased in advance from Breakaway or Stuart Claytraps. Stock in the Match lake, a number of bream, perch, and carp to around 15lb. From what I can gather, it has been fishing fairly well, even now in November and a few fish have been showing on floater (still). Best baits have been dog biscuit, pellet or worm and fished on either a cage or method feeder. For some reason float fishing has not been particularly good, but that may be down to feeding. The Specimen Lake is £8 for 2 rods for a day, but 24 hour and weekly tickets are available. When I had a look around there were no carp anglers bivvied up, but a chap was moving around after seeing fish and setting up on them. I believe he was just doing the day. A few fish showed and bubbled while I walked around. I'm not sure of the largest fish anymore, more due to not keeping in touch as much as I like, rather than any thefts or fish going missing, but I know of a few 20's coming out.

Rafael Faraggi, and he still owns it. In fact if you go to http://www.carp.com/wallpaper_p1.html there is one of his pics there Ian Starmer ran the bookings for a number of years, but was just the agent for the fishery.

Booton came to the fore in the 1980's throwing up a couple of 30's in an area not noted for big carp. The gravel bars used to have large reed beds growing on top of them, and there were a couple of weedbeds. Many local anglers have fished it, it has been pretty much run through Cawston Angling for years, and fish have come from a few sources. The lake stock is possibly up for doubt, and up to date information may well be hard to come by. Some came from Lyng Easthaugh when that was netted, and restocked (as Catch22), although I don't know whether any of the Dutch fish made it in. Booton is also in an area that has had plenty of otters around.

I don't think that with running leads rig length is as critical as it is with semi-fixed. Because the line is able to run freely through the run ring until the slack is taken up, the rig length is effectively infinite. I don't follow into this theory that the lead will scare the carp either, as a lead on the lakebed pretty much looks like a stone, or will sink into the silt or clay. The main reason for lengthening the link is to avoid the lead pulling the whole hooklink into silt, which may happen with extremely short hooklinks, and to avoid the looping up effect that does happen with most hooklink materials. Obviously shorter hooklinks work better for long distance fishing, with less chance or "wrap round". After all that, I don't want a very short hooklink, or something excessively long. I have a preference for a hooklink of around 20centimetres, either a combi rig that is tangle free, can be cast a fair distance without tangling, fished with or without a bag or stringer or a coated braid hooklink that works the same. If I'm going to fish with PVA bags,mesh or stringers every cast then I will often switch back to plain braid.

There has been PLENTY published about Fishabil in the past, although the past few years it has gone very quiet. If you can get hold of them, back orders of CarpWorld with the CarpWorld sponsored Fishabil trips did make it big with a fair bit of info. Bill Cottam also wrote about Fishabil in his book Behind the Rods, with rig pics and some swim details, as did Tim Paisley in To Catch a Carp. Not much, but a start. Now from what I can remember, there is no favoured spot, it can fish dependant on pressure, and bait is whatever you fancy, although Starmer Baits were sponsoring or arranging bookings at one point, so that may be a clue or not. As with absolutely any fishing, don't confuse yourself with rigs, plain knotless knotted/line aligned rig works almost anywhere, and the choice of hooklink material is endless

but this line is misleading...as a hivis pop up i dont think hooks them because they are feeding, it the "what thats" factor and they mouth it,may be with no intention of feeding Your right mate - it is misleading. With a single, hi vis bait or over flavoured bait for instance, you are sort of enticing them to take a taste even though they may not be feeding. That is an act of bait application though - you’re not trying to get them on the munch as you believe, at that moment in time, they don't want a big feed - just an inquisitive taste. Any sort of big baiting approach in this situation would probably hinder your chances? It still wouldn't make much difference if that single bait was presented on a 'standard' pop up rig, a chod or a hinged stiff rig for instance. It’s the baiting strategy that is getting you the pickup. I've been saying that for years the baiting situation and whether the carp will feed on the bait will determine if you get a take or not. If the fish won't pick up the hookbait because they aren't comfortable with what is down there, then you simply won't get a run or any chance. It may be that they avoid massive beds of bait, or it may be that they simply won't pick up a single hookbait fished on its own with nothing around it. I don't think that it is the lead that hooks the fish either, but the speed at which it hits the lead or rod tip (running leads as the line tightens), or the strike.

That's my view as well, but even though you know that they are falsch, you still do it Far better to use a turkey baster style test in the bath to work out how a rig behaves under water

My only difference from Jez is that I often use a rig ring on the shank of the hook. It is not necessarily there for the sliding or blowback properties that it may offer, but for the simple reason that I can adjust the hair length to suit my fishing. I can attach a longer or shorter hair to the ring to suit the fishing. I prefer to use a snowman presentation, it makes it more difficult in my mind to eject a "strange" shaped bait. Rigs often fail the "palm test", yet would pass the "thumb test", but whether they fail both or not, getting the feeding situation right will mean that your hookbait is taken in more often. Then if you have got the hair length right you may hopefully get a decent hook-up and land the fish. It is down, in my eyes, because people don't feed the situation correctly, that rigs become failures on many waters. That is about the one thing that Korda Underwater Series show correctly. The fish get away with it most of the time, but the DVD's have made us paranoid and make us think that we can improve the ratio. The truth is that we can't just by piddling around with rigs.

My only difference from Jez is that I often use a rig ring on the shank of the hook. It is not necessarily there for the sliding or blowback properties that it may offer, but for the simple reason that I can adjust the hair length to suit my fishing. I can attach a longer or shorter hair to the ring to suit the fishing. I prefer to use a snowman presentation, it makes it more difficult in my mind to eject a "strange" shaped bait. Rigs often fail the "palm test", yet would pass the "thumb test", but whether they fail both or not, getting the feeding situation right will mean that your hookbait is taken in more often. Then if you have got the hair length right you may hopefully get a decent hook-up and land the fish. It is down, in my eyes, because people don't feed the situation correctly, that rigs become failures on many waters.

When I look at lost fish, I tend to consider that the hook and bait didn't go in deep enough, so I tend to consider that either I wasn't feeding enough to get the fish comfortable feeding and able to get the bait in properly, or if I can't change the baiting situation I tend to lengthen the hair and/or rig length. There is no reason to change the rig itself, unless you are using something super complicated, in which case go back to basics and a simple knotless knot and hair, or on occasions switch from that simple rig and just add a line aligner. The rig itself is very rarely a problem, just getting the fish to take the bait deeply by giving more separation with a longer hair.

Cobleyn will probably give you the same answer: Rivers Soar and Trent Plenty of walking and looking, along with a bit of local knowledge and help

so you cant remember the thread name either?? I can't remember everything

http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=54261&highlight=knot Maybe that one with the snell http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=53348&highlight=knot http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=53343&highlight=kryston http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=51628&highlight=kryston A few to have a go at

I wouldn't tie a basic overhand knot in a hooklink material, and even if I would, I can't tie small loops very easily as I have arthritis in my fingers An overhand knot is one of the first knots to give way and break under pressure I'd rather use a Rapala/loop knot

While I agree that the Multi rig is useful in that you can change your hook should you need to without scrapping a whole hooklink, it can make for awkward or even difficult rig manipulation in the tying of the loop for the hook. Come to that, on a standard presentation of the kk with line aligner, I have caught a number of same fish all on the same rig. I cast out a rig at Merrington, landed a 26, then used that same rig for a number of other fish at Hintlesham until I lost, or fragged it. We often overcomplicate things for the sake of it, and in many cases probably change hooks when we don't need to due to the "I change my hook after every fish" by whoever in the magazines. Sure, it may be required, but much of that is down to sponsorship, and so and so having to increase tackle sales for his tackle company. Don't get me wrong, I can probably go through a whole list of rigs that I have used and tied up, and caught on, yet in many or even most cases, it simply isn't needed. Knotless knotted rig, and standard presentation accounts for probably 90% of carp caught, and captures of other species as well

As Stoogi says, simple knotless knotted rig will work almost everywhere, and may be possible to be improved on by adding a shrink tube or silicon tube line aligner. You have a massive choice of hooklink materials to cope with almost everything; mono, fluorocarbon, or braid, coated or uncoated.

I hate the name Chod, after all, it is a SILT rig, designed for fishing over... silt The number of fish I used to lose on helicopter/silt set-ups Hookpulls, the line being rubbed away with a swivel "rolling" on the line. Far better set-ups available to fish a pop-up in my view.

I don't think that I have ever bought a rig from a shop. I've always preferred making my own, to my own specifications, although a few of my mates and I have made rigs for each other, but only those whose knots I trust, (and them mine) I'd never forgive myself if I made a rig for somebody else and it failed. As Jules says, if a rig or knot breaks, then the only person whose fault it is, is myself.

Yeah I'm using it safely i have cut down the lead clip to its minimum length and I'm dropping the lead on every take. I am using lead core because it suits the situation that I am fishing. And yeah I was trying feathering the line. Either it's not working for me or I'm not quite getting to grips with it. Just because you're dropping the lead doesn't necessarily make it safe. A leadcore set-up with a pendant or inline set-up is still a risk to fish, and it only needs a length of 15cm I reckon for it to be able to snag up and potentially tether a fish. Also leadcore means that should the fish be left trailing a rig, the weight of the leadcore will hold the hook in position, preventing the hook being ejected (rehooking), which carp can do with no weight attached on a normal rig. Leadcore is also thrown forward on the feathering of the cast, meaning that the mainline will be pulled and twist around it increasing the chance of a tangle. Dump the leadcore (or any leader), and fish tubing if you have to, or go naked. PVA then reduces the risk of tangles, be it a stringer, bag or stick.

The gate is the only access onto the site from memory, so it sounds like you know more than most.

Welcome to the forum. One of the Mods beat me to it , and moved the thread into the correct section. I don't know if you will find this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=52133&highlight=raker+lake I would also suggest try googling Raker Lakes as I think that they have a website. It may be worth giving them a call as I bet the bailiff usually knows a fair bit about his water.

Knotless knot for hook if I'm going to fish an integral hair, or Uni knot for just about everything else with the exception when I fish a loop knot on the combi link (I use ring swivels a lot), when I use what I believe is called the Rapala knot, but it is the knot featured in Kryston packaging.

It comes off the spool like that. I use black Amnesia myself as a shockleader for my Marker and Spod set-up, and I've noticed a few clear or lighter patches as it comes off the spool. It doesn't appear any weaker than the "proper" stuff.