salokcinnodrog

I know they are good, in my view the best but this is a bit rich:

I have always used Duracell batteries and not had any problems. I have had Vonny's problem of water on the sensor, and managed to sort it instantly. Turn the alarm off, remove off stick or buzzer bar, blow the sensor clear, shake and repeat, back onto bar. On the two occasions it has happened that has been an instant fix, and the Delkim alarms themselves I got back in 2000'ish are still going. I have had to have them repaired, but only when I numptied and left a battery in and the terminal corroded. Again both times, repaired within a week, even though the alarms themselves are that old. Note I have Delkim ST's, paired with ATT receiver and dongles.

Welcome to the forum As CM says, there are fish that to start with won't look at a boilie. He does omit to say particles, or even groundbait. Vitalin may be the way to get fish onto bait, and can be used to introduce boilies. As the fish munch it, it may also break up the weed, digging right into and uprooting it. I know at the moment the naturals are starting to show, bloodworm, shrimps and the like, so it's quite possible the carp are really onto them, which is where groundbait may compete. Also in my view it's possibly a bit early for pellets, although low small amounts may work. Other baits that might work, maggots, worms, even bread

Welcome back to the forum. These threads aren't new, but may contain some interesting posts worth a read from the attached link: The area around Thorpe is still worth a try, but I can guarantee from spending time around there it is not easy, nor is the Postwick area. Wamps on here still lives in the area, is a mate of mine, and his advice is to be valued.

I have copied and pasted part of a post of mine from Guide to Knotless Knot and Rigs: It is as simple as attaching a hook with a knotless knot, and in many or even most cases, simple is best. There are sometimes when a rig needs to be slightly upgraded and by adding a Line Aligner then you can create a more aggresive hooking angle Coated Braid with a Line Aligner: These simple rigs can be adapted for Braids, Nylon, fluorocarbons and Coated Braids, and used for bottom baits or pop-up rigs. To use them for pop-ups, add sinker, olivette or a piece of putty at the height you want the bait popped up off the bottom Here is a Short Stiff link line aligned and a loop knot at the end Braid Line Aligner with Shrink Tubing The hook has been tied on with a knotless knot, and then a piece of Shrink Tubing threaded on using a needle, coming out the front of the tubing, and then steamed to shrink it down, then I tie on the swivel. The tubing curves in slightly to extend the shank, and also holds the hair to the back of the shank. This rig is my standard rig at the moment, and has been cut off the mainline straight after a session, so still has the beads and run ring for a bolt or running lead attached to the tag. The hooklink is Kryston Mantis, tied to the eye of the hook (size 6 Gardner Mugga) with a braid hair also tied to the hook, and then whipped down the shank and held in place opposite the base of the barb with a small piece of tight fitting silicon tubing. The small loop at the end of the hair, is where in addition to a bottom bait, I also tie on a pop-up. The hook has had a shrink tube line aligner added, and I can guarantee that it works: I promise use you these rigs do work, and are mostly as simple as I can make them, and probably as complicated as you need to go. The stiff link is what I use on The Lagoons, even though that pic is years old, to beat crayfish. I put a drilled wooden ball on the hair, and a meshed bottom bait at the end of the hair, held in with a hair stop. Even if or when the Crays manage to get the meshed bait, the knot on the hair in addition to the remains of the mesh prevent the wooden ball coming off. I do confess I am currently using Solar 101 hooks in size 6, as well as The Gardner Mugga's, but the tying is exactly the same.

I tie a lot of rigs using tubing over the hook, both silicon tubing and shrink tubing, almost every rig has tubing as I have seen fish manage to eject rigs on a plain knotless knot and hair. Blooming annoying when you are up close and personal, no more than 3metres away from the biggest fish in the lake! So I use a line aligner to prevent that happening again. The tubing I use is whichever silicone tubing goes over the eye, or quite simply shrink tube purchased from Maplins, and I honestly don't care that it is black and has white printing on it. The black is not going to stand out on a lakebed, not in that tiny length. As Nafy says, almost every hook link material, although the only rigs I don't use it on are out eyed hooks.

I think I know what he means; there are a number of farm irrigation reservoirs in Suffolk and Essex where the lake is actually built up of a clay lining and above the normal ground level, almost like at the top of a hill.

I do agree on the big bivvy being stronger in heavy winds, unless you peg an umbrella down with its back to the wind you could be in for a starry night... Overwraps for an oval aren't that big or bulky to carry. Mine is around 45cm long with maybe 10-15cm across and fits in the rod sling pocket with my umbrella. They aren't new, but trying looking at JRC Contact bivvies and brolly systems. Even though they are claimed as brollies, the framework looks more like outer poles than a real brolly

May be silly answer, but a plain straight Oval Umbrella might work for you. Get an overwrap and if you decide to do a night can be made into a complete bivvy shelter.

And so many followers that Fox decided not to change or update the rods for the new season...

Sad goodbye to Claudio Ranieri. Winning the Premier League with Leicester City, over achieving big time, then struggling this season. Really sad that he's gone, and just shows how fickle football is. A manager now must be instantly winning, and holding position, no room for any loss of position

I confess to always cooking in the doorway

Outside. The rig pic is shown in his The Carp Strikes Back

It's a good bivvy

Years ago Rod Hutchinson used the same idea, and had a number of fish hooked in the cheek.

I saw somebody fishing a bare hook over hemp, and they caught. I could never convince myself when particle fishing and I could place my bait by hand, to do the same. Cloud's idea of hiding the hook with weed has been done, although the version I saw had a bait on the hook or hair as well

I was hitting around 115 maybe slightly further, but not much more. I paced out from the overhanging trees to the left of the sluice from the Gravels at Nazeing, and walked the line out to be sure. I know with Shimano DL10000's and 15lb line I could only get 90, but changing to Beastmaster 7000's added at least 20. I was also using 3oz leads, with a single or double bait stringer. Any more and the cast went awry when trying to go for it! I could feel the difference between whacking it out with my old SP's which did 120 with ease. Amazing what you can do with a phone call to get your specifications sorted at Century.

My last set of new rods I actually dropped in price I think my NG's were just over £650 for the three and custom built to my specs. The last rods were RH The Ones and cost a whole lot less, although Rod Hutchinson going back to Italy and out of the U.K. Angling scene meant I got a very good deal. I think in terms of value many items of tackle have actually dropped in price, although the top manufacturers like Century who insist on staying British built have stayed higher. If I was looking at casting rods then it would be Century SP's, whereas as an all rounder I would go back to NG's.

I use an 18mm bottom bait and a 15mm pop-up. I always test them in the margins so that the bait sits perfectly, as pop-ups from different manufacturers have different buoyancy. It may mean I have a shot inside the bottom bait on the hair. It is basically down to what works for you, so have a play with a 14mm bottom to a 10mm pop-up, or go larger than I do.

Been using that for helicopter set-ups for ages, holds the lead tidily. As Yonny says, there is no universal swivel size, a size 8 from one manufacturer can be a different size to another brands size 8. i usually use a size 8 as my swivel size for mainline to hooklink with pendant and inline set-ups, but because of the difference, always use a buffer bead which fits all.

Suffolk Water Park, just outside Ipswich has Jacobs Creek, which is suitable for three people definitely. It can get very weedy in the summer, almost wall to wall weed, with fish to maybe high twenties, although it can be difficult because of the weed.

That was at the back of a mates house, his garden backed onto it. Shame it got used as a rubbish tip!

I was given a Theseus barrow for nothing, so I can't complain, but I do know the handles are too low to push it 100% comfortably. It does have the side thingies, but I don't use them. I lift the front bar up, load the underbarrow bag with the bits, then put my bedchair on top and open the legs on that to make side bars, everything else then goes on top of it, with the exception of my rucksack which I carry on my back. I do know that pushing a barrow with a flat tyre is a pain in the butt, and exhausting, but I had a puncture on the way back to the car, and it was a case of carry on or stop and do it in various trips, the choice was carry on, although it did totally frag the tyre. Of all the barrows I have used over the years, the Carp Porter Mk.2 is the best. Fox can't actually market their best barrow in the UK, I believe the design is too close to the Carp Porter. I reckon the choices available are Fox, Carp Porter with the TFG actually a decent challenger, unless anyone has any negatives on the latest TFG models?

I had a secret entrance Can't do it with a dog though, well not unless she can climb trees and walk along boughs

They still exist, have been Easterned and ottered. Not seen anyone down there for ages on my walks around the area