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I guess the hook size and weight of lead will probably make a difference ie bigger hook needs more weight to penetrate the lip and smaller sharper thinner gauge hooks for lighter leads, Just my thoughts not based on solid fact, but it would make sense to scale it all down if you are using light leads, or up if you are using shark hooks 😉

Just a couple of pretty simple rigs I use. The hair is tied to the rig ring, so I can change the length if I need to. I suppose strictly speaking not basic, but pretty simple. (Dave Chilton) Kryston Snakebite, line aligned and a sliding ring on the shank with a double 20mm KMG bottom bait on the hair. The second rig is a Kryston Merlin to Amnesia combi-link, again line aligned, sliding ring on the shank and a snowman 20mm KMG and a 15mm Garlic spice pop-up. While the leads are on run rings, because of undertow I do tend to fish tight lines

My choice on heli set up depends on the lake tbh. Leadcore is MILES better for hooking potential (imo) but I'm currently using a fluoro leader set up for distance. Your suggestions (Pin down, qc ring, lead) will be absolutely fine. Maybe get a sleeve of some kind to smarten it up. Any old lead will do mate.

Nice one thanks, I have tried watching the vids and stuff, they aren't the easiest company to find details on, it's hard to find pics of what colour the products actually are, 😢 So talking heli set ups today 😁 What is the best way to attach the lead, lead type for the most direct hooking potential? Bank tackle do qc rings which look neat I'm also thinking 4oz heli leads without a swivel? Obviously using a bead that will detach should it need too, I have grown fond of avid pin down leader it's nice to splice so want to continue using that if possible, So what do you guys use for a neat heli set up,

That looks like a Solar 101 size 6. Running lead with a tight line is also known as a bolt rig. I think it is page 115 in Kevin Maddocks Carp Fever, a rig between 3-9inches. I don't like lead clips at all, so I prefer to use run rings wherever possible.

I put the point on my finger, with some slack, then lifted as if a fish lifted and ran. To be fair I was working as a plasterer and on building sites so my skin was probably like sandpaper and a bit tough.

When I fish a snowman rig say 18mm or 20mm bottom bait with 14mm (I think)pop up I use a size 4 curve shank, have used 6s but prefer 4s with that size bait. Works for me, but I do think it’s always good to experiment a bit 😁👍

But if you were to lay the lead on the work surface, balance the point on your finger so there’s some slack in between your finger and lead, then lift your hand with a bit of speed, it would stick in then surely? Obviously if you do it real slow you could get it to not penetrate your skin? im not saying you’re wrong or anything just trying to get my head around it lol. ive done well with Korda hooks straight out the pack but did find the point dulled really quick while being out in the lake so have now switched to muggas and think they are good hooks 👍

I did a post in Rig Tying this week, actually while I was fishing. The rigs I have been using on the reservoir myself. I know @commonly you have a 'no curved hook' rule, my other straight hook shank is a Solar 101. Both these rigs work with them as well. @pablo7uk, the snowman set-up is what produced a fish this week. Don't think you always have to use a Ronnie rig. I do know I was fishing over a clay bed so the area I was fishing was weed free. Both rigs have worked on the reservoir, and strangely, both seem to keep me bream free, whereas single baits have been taken by bream. I don't mind if they are big, (9lb +), but a night of 5-8lb fish every few minutes can do my head in.

As I said, if you are happy with the pattern then good on you, but I would suggest that you learn to improve the sharpness, or use their (?) Kamakura extra sharpened patterns. I found, personally, Gardner Muggas (a curved shank pattern) and Solar 101's (straight shank) are sharp enough out of the packet.

I'll stick an add on that, only change one thing at a time, until you feel you have got it right, the fish will tell you... Personally, I refuse to use Korda hooks as standard. I found they were not sharp enough straight out of the packet, and I missed takes and had a few hook pulls. I even managed to lift a 3oz lnline lead off the work surface with the hook point in my thumb or finger, it was not sharp enough to penetrate. The pics were on the forum somewhere. Yonny, I think does give his hooks an extra touch up with the sharpener, so he cures the problem I had with them. I use brands that are sharp enough straight out of the packet, that I don't have to sharpen