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That's not accurate. Hooks are made from high carbon steels and heat treated (sometimes referred to as spring steels). While it's true that a finer gauge wire or hook is more prone to straightening (obviously), elasticity (or Youngs Modulus of elasticity to be precise) is a physical characteristic of steel - there is no 'may' about it. A hook is essentially a spring - it is critical that it can flex during the fight (this is known as elastic deformation), otherwise it would just snap because it would be too brittle to deal with the loads applied to the steel. However, it's not possible for the hook to flex to the point of straightening without the yield strength of the steel being exceeded. The yield strength is the point at which the steel deforms under load permanently (this is known as plastic deformation). So yes, a hook flexes (to a point) but no, a hook cannot straighten and then spring back into shape. The physical properties of spring steel do not allow it. If a hook straightens, you know about it.

Happy it's not a mk2 otherwise I would of been tempted to get the drop in bag just to fill the gap I have only ever put spare clothes in the drop in bags as it ends up buried at the bottom of all the other gear on the barrow. I'm very particular about who and where I buy used from, I use FB market place, Gumtree and Ebay I will also collect from seller and check their FB profile expecting to see some fishing related content, if they are not willing to sell from home, might be a bit iffy.

Seems to be one of the original fat boy barrows, they all come with a drop in frame bag since the mk2 came out looks like it's the smaller side bags that will fit this one, I didn't know they did two different size side bars and bags to fit they also only do the zip ones in this size since korda took over Nice find don't think it has ever been used fella wanted rid I think, the chair came from a lady who looked like she was clearing out a relatives house ready for sale, same again never used not a mark on it.

I had to get a few parts that were nicked from my garage, after trolling the web, I just went direct to Carp porter. They're very helpful. Part of the Korda family from what I can gather.

I did used to tie some up in Viscount Tackle back in the 1990's for a few people who had arthritis in the fingers, and struggled to tie their own. Not a big money maker as for 10 rigs we'd just charge for the tubing, hooks and swivels we'd used, but it kept customers coming back in each week for other bits like boilies, pellets and other tackle they needed. I had to laugh when someone commented "you wouldn't use that yourself", then when they saw me on Barham and my rigs were identical and I was catching.

Nope, I tie them on the bank, my normal go to rig is a loop to loop combi rig but I just change parts depending on what lake I'm fishing. I'm a bit weird I will change kicker shapes, hook sizes and patterns, blow back ring and tubing on different waters 🤣 I don't really enjoy tying rigs either 🤣 My dad only goes a couple times a year and buys the korda ready tied ones and has put fish on the bank with them👍

I have a mk4s i think and for the front bag I use a trakker side pannier bag think it’s this one

Just back from my FB Market Place bargain hunt, got a very nice chair for waggler fishingand general day ticket stuff. Also grabbed a Carp Porter same again never used paid 90 f9r the barrow but need a bit of help figuring out which model carp porter it is, not a mk2 as it doesn't take the drop in bag on a frame, don't mind that, the side bars are smaller than the mk2 at 50cm the mk2 is 68cm so the side bags for the MK2 won't fir tight, they do a evo range that look smaller for side bags but no size stated, just which model porter they fit, advice would be welcome. Also the front bar bag my front bar is 49cm wide call it 50cm would anyone know the size of the mk2 front bar or the bag that fits seems to be same across the whole range. Few pics someone must know the model?

I will fess up i am buying ready tied choddy rigs as i do struggle to make chod hook links they are sharp and decent knots but i do all my other rigs myself

Say you are using metal sizes, in engineering I think called a 'gauge". The higher the number, the finer or thinner the gauge. A size 10 hook may be made with 18 gauge material, but a size 6 or 8 is made from 14 or 16 gauge wire. Now think about the fight of the fish, by putting pressure on the hook, you are 'trying' to straighten or break it. A finer gauge wire or hook is more prone to straightening than a heavier gauge. It may have the elasticity to return to shape after the fish has gotten off, or it may not; if it has sprung back into shape you may not notice the problem. Then think about other issues, a small hook in a big mouth, less weight, or mass, more easily blown out. The bigger hook is more likely to get a point into a piece of flesh. Plus you have as @Carpbell3 has said. Yet with a smaller hook, a size 10 can land a big carp when on say a 1½lb test curve rod. I actually use size 10 hooks for floater fishing, a dog biscuit fixed to the shank of the hook by a loop or tying the hook on with a knotless knot after creating the loop so the dog biscuit is tight to the hook.

I have never bought a ready tied rig, other than hooks to nylon for smaller species, although mates and I have 'pinched' each other's rigs. There is a 'but' in there; at Nazeing I pinched one of Big Daves rigs after I had landed a fish and for some reason hadn't got another tied up. I cast it to where I had caught from, and within minutes started getting a series of bleeps on the buzzer which then stopped. Around 4 in the afternoon every day I would reel in, check hook and bait and recast, so at 4 I reeled in, replaced the rig with one of my own, freshly tied and recast the same bait out. Within minutes I had a take and landed a decent fish. When I got home I did a hook point comparison of my Gardner Muggas, Gamskatsu curve, whatever the number was and the Korda Kurv's Dave was using, by attempting to lift a 3oz inline lead off the desk with the hookpoint on the ball of my thumb. The Gardner and Gamakatsu hooks were sharp enough to draw blood without the full weight of the lead. The Kurv, I could lift the lead off the desk! Not long after Korda released their 'hand sharpened' hooks... I prefer to play around with my rigs, working on thoughts and theories in my head, and the experimentations and experiences in the water. I said years ago I don't think of Rig Mechanics of say the KD rig, Spinner rig or even the Chod rig as a rig that passes the palm or thumb test may still be a blank rig but the basic rig that is put in the right situation will catch.

Never ever bought a ready tied, I've been using a stiff end section multi rig for the hinge rig, the 2 doubled over strands hold the hook well and you can change hook as and when. A little more faffy to put the required bend in with 2 strands but finished rig looks just as good IMO. Some of the pro anglers use pre-tied chods so must be OK - but it's hardly a technically difficult one to tie anyway. 👍

Chods everyone must of bought a pack of chods at some point they are just right for hinge rigs.

Also switched over to Daiwa reels from Shimano as not happy with their recent offerings, again reliability the issue.

Favourite bit of kit is deffo my Jag 2+1 buzz bars and Fox RX+ alarms 👍 Reliability and carpyness all in one package 😂

Put a half inch #6 screwinto a piece of 4x2 wood and see how easy it pulls out then Try that with a 11/2 #10 screw

Totally agree won’t even let my best mate tie a knot..

I have used the gemini booms and quite like them, cost its always a factor for me though could spend a fortune on them rather than hooklink and I do prefer to tie my own as you can change the length, material or anything else. As I get older rigs do seem tougher to tie but will keep going til I can't do it anymore 😂

I love tying my own rigs, the attention to detail of getting it just right, the little adjustments you make to length and pop-up height for instance - it's all using the grey matter. I will always remember sitting in my bivvy all day trying to work out why my non tangle rigs were suddenly tangling every cast, chucking fast and low under pylons, did my head in completely. That day I came up with huge loops over half the length of the boom effectively lengthening the anti tangle sleeves properties if you like, and giving you a set place to mould the rig putty stopping that ever slipping. By the end of that day I'd come up with better anti tangle properties and more importantly realised that if I tied the hook end section almost in reverse order I had total control of how much stripped braid was left exposed, instead of ending up with whatever you got after tightening the knot. So I tie the hair last if that makes any sense at all - hard to put in words. So one problem ended up improving all elements of the rig I'd been tying for years and years. I thought about tying rigs many years ago for those who struggled to do it themselves, like a complete custom set-up, was a good idea, couldn't be arsed in the end lol same as all my other great ideas 🙃🤣

I couldn't bring myself to use a ready tied rig. Hooks aint sharp enough for my liking but more to the point, imagine losing a special one if the knot went.... you'd never forgive yourself.

Depends what line you use you can tie a multi rig easy enough you will need to use a much finer line for the hook length as the eye of the hook will be smaller considerably so once you get above a size eight hook. Then you have the TC of the rod, a heavy rod anything above 2.50 test will always lose more fish than land using small hooks.

Forgot to say, they are nice and long some are two foot others a metre so you can adjust the length or add a micro swivel.

So who's owning up to buying the occasional spinner rig or pack of loops ( i really do rate loops). Ready rigs today are hard to beat in terms of neat and tidy and value for money, a pack of spinners and a bit of line is cheaper for most people in the short run than buying all the bits for various rigs. Trying some of the Guru ones they look good in sizes from 12 to 16, got hair rigs on the 12 and a bait band on the 14 for on the bottom, a 16 waggler band rig and a 16 maggot corn waggler rig, eight in a pack at a few quid each I'm not tying size 10 to 16 hooks on fine nylon to the same standard as the ready rigs especially the tiny hair rigs all lined up nicely so I'm getting ready tied ⛔

so by trial n error, i started off with size 2 n 4 hooks...now i'm down to 6-8 I'm catching and hooking more carp then ever. I have noticed when I"m using a smaller size i'm losing fish especially 8 and 10s. Also what rigs can i make with size 10 other than hair rig?