yonny

I think this subject is being completely over-thought. If your hooks are razor sharp and your rig can reset you're worrying about nothing imo buddy. You have to bear in mind that the tighter you fix that lead, the easier it is for carp to use that lead to throw the hook. If it's that weedy just fish bowstring tight lines. The lines will be hidden in the weed and a single beep equals a bite. Dead easy mate. There are numerous inline set-ups available, and heli set ups, and lead clips, and they all work as intended out of the packet. You don't need to be butchering them unless you're looking to create something really far-out or completely unique. Jamming the lead on is just not the one mate. If you truly believe that this issue is costing you fish then you need to be thinking about the feeding situation imo. If they are feeding that gingerly that the lead systems that work for everyone else are not working for you then there is something fundamentally wrong with feeding situation. If it were me I'd be chucking a lead clip out there with a very sharp hook knowing full well it'll empty the place if put in the right spot.

All part of the journey buddy. When you get to this point (when you know all the spots so you can just cast out when you find the kippers) it tends to become much easier, you catch what you're after, and it's time to move on to start the learning process all over again on some other water lol.

Yup. If you get a rig presented perfectly on a spot where the fish are prepared to feed then sooner or later you're going to catch one. Simple as that buddy.👍

So a drop-off inline?

Spot on mate. Like you, I have don't get to pick and choose when I go so I'll go regardless of what the weather is doing. It'll be hard going mate, but not impossible.👍

I've had similar situations. One water I was catching on the deck getting good drops but to look at from above you'd not even consider putting a rig there. Sometimes you're better off not knowing imo.

30+ degrees will make it very difficult on the vast majority of waters, simple fact buddy.

I'm sure you've made that sound far more complicated then it needed to be. Are you saying to want to try a heli set-up with a drop off lead?

This defo counts as stalking imo mate. And a fine example of it too. Well done.

In spring I'll carry yellow, pink and white. After spawning I'll carry pink, white, and match-the-hatch. The most important thing is buoyancy imo. Lots of off-the-shelf pop ups are terrible for this.

I use their cork ball pop ups which are obviously very buoyant. I have used their little 12 mm standard pop ups, they need a little help (foam) to keep them up for 24+. I've not used the standard pop ups in bigger sizes so cannot help there buddy. Sorry.

You can use electrical tape buddy. Not a chance mate.

They are auctioning off days on the blue/gold pools in addition to the page buddy.

Imo the very least they should be offering in return for Joe Bloggs paying for their fence is a session on the dead-mans-shoes main lake. The Gold/Blue lakes are open to anyone on a day ticket so hardly the worlds biggest incentive to pay a premium to fence a lake you'll never be able to fish.

I don't think that's right. It's the members that are doing it as I understand the situation.

I'll not slate the individuals involved but I agree the initiative is a bit cheeky to say the least.

I know it well. Same thing happened on the big lake when the weed was treated back in 2016. Basically the dye inhibits weed growth which has exposed the silt/bloodworm beds that aren't normally revealed until late autumn. It makes the fishing much harder as it's tricky to compete with an abundance of natural food.

???? The Synchro is decent. Gardner Pro is cheaper and offers similar properties. Never hard of Gardner 90? They do a GT80 and a GR60 but no 90. Do you mean Berkley CM90? Check out Gardner HydroTuff. Great line.

Imo these are completely different prospects, especially for pre-baiting, and I'd approach them completely differently. On such a small water (1 1/2 acres) I'd be looking to bait very small spots, very accurately. On bigger waters I'd be trying to get them visiting an area frequently. On waters as small as an acre they're already in the area so I'd be trying to get them feeding regularly on the exact spot I intend to hook them from. On any water I find frequency is more important than qty. Half a kilo 3 times a week is much more effective than one big dump once a week imo. You don't need to use anything special - any half decent baits will do the job. I tend to use a good food bait and bulk it out with something else (what that something else is will depend on what's in the lake (for example I'd avoid pellet and corn if tench are going to smash the lot)). I tend to stick to boilies and tigers if tench are about. Pick the right spot(s). Try to find an area the fish like to visit regularly regardless of pre-baiting. Try to keep it quiet. Pre-baiting is no good if others are fishing your spots when you're not there. Have fun.

This makes perfect sense. I was quoting Nick Helleur who is hardly a physicist (lol). I am inclined to agree with you. But the fact about lines being pinned past 60 yards is just that - a fact. Who knows how/why? I guess line has weight, simple as that.

My mate has one. Brilliant dogs🐶

Yeah, at that distance you'll be fine mate.

At 98 yards you can fish your lines bow-string tight and the last 30 yards + will be pinned anyway mate. Past 60 yards water pressure pins the lines. If I was you 'd go uber-tight - so tight that a single bleep can mean only one thing (a fish). Backleads at distance with rocks and weed in the equation is suicide imo buddy.

@finchey, you will defo get more distance as its lighter so quicker on the throw, I just hope it's long enough buddy.

Out of order. I'd have done the same mate. In my opinion every member of a syndi or club should act as bailiff.