harpz_31

Les quis do a coach travel carp holiday in France but I've not been so couldn't tell you if it's any good

So who's right, kevtaylor or oscsha ? Theres only 1 way to find out FIGHT

I apologise, I didn't see the striking bit. I agree and I never recast liners but if the bobbin moves up without returning to its original position or drops down then odds are you've been done and the lead has moved. After watching underwater footage of fish picking rigs up and leaving them in a way that they aren't effective and without a single indication at the rod end has left me paranoid. as for the "kiss of death" on recasts over feeding fish then that's something you'd have to weigh up the pros and cons, The places ive fished it doesn't seem to bother them.

I had 12 footers in a tight swim at the weekend and casting was a pain because of low branches so I ended up kneeling down to cast, plus playing fish was a nightmare with trees to the left and right so no matter which way I pulled my rod it was hitting the trees so in times like that 10 foot rods are a massive advantage but in comfortable pegs with plenty of room I dont see the point.

If your bobbin moves and doesnt return to its original position this means your lead has moved and your rig could be fouled so always recast as Yonny said. Even if the bobbin raises with a beep or 2 I'd recast as you could be sat behind ineffective rods for hours on end, I try and recast every 3 to 4 hours anyway because fish pick up your bait quite a few times before 1 gets hooked so I'm always paranoid its sitting funny, especially with bottom bait rigs. I have had a similar problem where my bobbins were lifting to the top but when I hit it nothing was there so I switched to a pop up and it stopped happening.

never heard of this happening before. have you got enough binders in your basemix ? sealing them in air tight bags ? drying them for a while before freezing ?

its ok to have a swivel at the rig end but not the main line end of your leader as it would stop the clip or lead from sliding free of the leader in the event of being snapped. personally I only use lead core if ive absolutely got to and use tubing for 99% of my fishing.

Ive never felt the need to "fill it in" and found a little and often approach suits me fine and get through the year on 50kg a year taking about a kilo per 24 hours and only use all that if its kickin off.

Yea elmos been bangin on about um for ages so thought I'd get 1 to shut him up 😉 Seriously tho elmo cheers for the recommend mate top bit of kit, am well happy(for once)

Lol Got 1 this morning Absolutely awesome bit of kit

Gardner sausage gun for sale only used 3 times Anyone recommend a gun please

Just got my new gardner rolaball bait master and I've got to say I'm not impressed, I've not used it to roll yet but it doesn't slide very smoothly and catches because the 3 sections you have to screw together are slightly misaligned. The way that the sections are attached (on the bottom only)means the middle bows up so the only way to get it flat it to screw it down It's obvious that when it was designed the main focus was making it as cheaply as possible and a quality product was way down on the list.

just make them au natural and if you want to add a splash of colour just top your hook bait with some pop up corn which also serves to balance your bait out.

Like I keep telling the missus "size isn't everything"

Couldn't agree more In the last 3 years I've had a few 30s out of my syndicate but last October I caught a scrappy 17lb'er that gave me the fight of my life and I'd rather catch 1 of them than 10 30+ carp that come in like a bream

i think its more method than equipment that will save me most time like they say "don't work hard work smart"

done a few sessions now with my own made boilies and have had very good results so im looking to upgrade my rolling gear to cut down prep and rolling time (taking about hour per kilo atm) theres a few different tables and guns out there ranging in price and wondered what peoples view are. I don't mind the price (obviously not going pro so nothing to expensive) as long as the quality is good.

I'd only use barbless in a snaggy swim where I'm more at risk of losing a baited rig or a fish snaps me in some snags. And when I fishing over silkweed as it tends to get caught up on barbed hooks more. I'd never use zigs in the above situations so barbless hooks aren't necessary

And on the fight. If the hook comes out mid battle it pulls across the fish and cuts into the flank. It's why barbless are banned on some waters and why I only use them in select situations.

Like I said I've never had it happen on any other hook but 3 out of the 5 nash hooks bent and not just a bit. Mouth damage was minimal, the hook came out in the net.

Its curling up like a Turkish slipper. Btw had my only fish of the night on the pallatrax hook

just reeled in and this is the state of the hook. The only thing other than silt on the bottom is leaves and twigs plus I'm fishing the same spots I always fish and I never had this on the cryogen hooks.

got both the pallatrax and nash hooks and so far have only used the nash hooks. the nash twister are very sharp out of the packet but the point came back bent a few times after a short time in the water, all though they do sharpen quite well afterwards. will be trying the pallatrax today and will post my findings.

taken from the AD website