salokcinnodrog

It doesn't matter what braid you use as long as you are comfortable with it! Old News, but Korda had a problem with a load of Hybrid being recalled and they had to replace many purchased spools. http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=23882 My Mate used the stuff and lost a couple of fish due to knots snapping and it had awful Abrasion Resistance. I keep Kryston Mantis and Mantis Gold, Snakebite and Snakeskin in the Tackle Box. They work for me so I see no need to change.

Running Leads need to be fished with a Slack line! If you fish a tight line you are making a Running set-up Semi-fixed lead, because of the the tight line. A small flying back lead will work, although my choice is for putty just above the tubing. I think that Backleads totally defeat indication with either Running or Fixed Leads. A shockleader is a length of line used to withstand the force of casting that may (or could) break your mainline. You need to use enough shockleader to give you your casting drop, and still have 4/5 turns on the reel. I don't get on with Tapered ones , so I prefer to use Greased Weasel in GREY or Amnesia in Black. The recommendation with using a shockleader is that you use 10lbs of leader strength for every ounce of lead. So a 2oz lead you need 20lb leader, if you go up to 3oz you use a 30lb Leader. If you decide to use a Braided Shockleader though you will need to double the shockleader strength due to the lack of stretch If you type in Shockleaders as a search there is a pic of the knot that I have found to work best.[/b][/i]

None of the above! You could actually have added this question to the other thread on leaders If I use a Shockleader for maximum distance casting I use either Amnesia or Drennan Greased Weasel. If I'm not using any then I try to fish as Slack a Line as possible, have tubing pinned down (if I'm using any), or get the Mainline down to the bottom. Just by fishing Running Leads with a Slack Line and possibly a Flying Back lead you can disguise the last of the line near the lead Would the fish not be able to feel the back lead when they pick up the bait. I am seriously considering a running lead setup with slack lines. What is your detection like on slack lines? Pretty Instant! It has to be with a Running Lead though! The Back Lead (or putty) just above the tubing creates minimal resistance, but does pull the line down to the Lakebed. After casting I get the line tight and put the indicators on to pull out any bow etc. I then pull line off the reel until the indicator hangs slack with no tension on it at all. The line just drops from the rod tip. As soon as I get a pick-up and the fish moves, the line pulls tight and I get Buzzer Indication. Use the same method fishing close to snags and the Carp don't often make it there before I have struck. It also means I can fish with my rods locked up with no give from a Baitrunner or Clutch. As soon as a fish pulls the line tight to the rod because there is no give (with the rod pointing directly at the End Tackle), the Carp tends to kite away from the snag on a tight line. I do use Heavy Leads for fishing with a Running Lead of 3oz or over, any less and I think in most cases the Lead can be moved along the lakebed. I also have a set-up, where the lead is tied on with 4lb Line if I do fish near the snags. In the event of a Carp making it to the snag, the lead pulls off and in most cases the fish will play free with no problems.

Does tubing prevent cut offs when fish take you into pads? That is when I use leadcore and over gravel bars too. Must admit that I occasionally have fish make it into Pads, but have not suffered many cut-offs, even with no tubing. When I do have that problem I up the length of tubing to about 1600mm (4feet) which seems to cure most of the problems. I don't think that it is actually the pads that cause the cut-off, but the snails, mussels etc that live on the stems and roots. Even though the lily roots can be as thick as your arm! Like Jez I prefer to use even pressure on the fish to get them out of the pads. Large Carp are actually easier to get out than smaller Carp and Tench, they often fight they're way free. The Smaller fish just go in and sulk, which causes more problems. Taverham was very heavily covered with Pads as was Earith, and I didn't use Leadcore or Tubing on them. At Earith Leadcore was banned, (as were all leaders), so I had to fish either with Tubing or nothing covering the Mainline. Its over the Gravel (flint) that because I was using Leadcore that I had a cut-off. The Leadcore was keeping the line down in the fight as a fish ran alongside the bar away from me, causing the line to chafe and I got a cut-off.

None of the above! You could actually have added this question to the other thread on leaders If I use a Shockleader for maximum distance casting I use either Amnesia or Drennan Greased Weasel. If I'm not using any then I try to fish as Slack a Line as possible, have tubing pinned down (if I'm using any), or get the Mainline down to the bottom. Just by fishing Running Leads with a Slack Line and possibly a Flying Back lead you can disguise the last of the line near the lead

I'm not using Leadcore at the moment. The results of last weeks playing in the margins totally put me off. I've tried Helicopter and Running Lead set-ups and no matter what, that kink in the Leadcore is what prevents beads and Run Rings with Lead pulling off it. The tension provided by the Leadcore if it does crack-off is enough to hold the hook in the fishes mouth, even with barbless! Therefore the only way the Carp has to get the hook out of its mouth is to get tethered and then hope it can break the hook free. Result after last weeks playing I think that Leadcore in its forms at the moment are not safe in Carp fishing

No Mate. If the Leadcore kinks the lead can get trapped in that kink. I normally use 3 oz leads myself, but I was playing with 5oz leads and Leadcore in the margins this week, just to simulate the kink if it landed badly. The lead can get totally trapped. Also even if the lead gets free, the Leadcore is heavy enough to hold the hook in the fishes mouth until it actually can snag it up.

My advice, is NOT to use Leadcore. I was using it regularly, and with a supposedly safe set-up. I had an accident on the bank and created a kink in the leadcore. This kink caused all the beads to jam up preventing them and the Lead from releasing. Result One Death Rig. NOT GOOD FOR THE CARP. Another incident at Suffolk Water Park. A Safezone Leadcore set-up that smashed up my marker BRAID, and cut throgh it. I eventually retrieved it, with 30metres of line attached as well as a rig and Lead. No way could the lead be released. Final Example, again at Suffolk Water Park. I had a Carp run me alongside a FLINT Bar, causing a cut off above the leadcore. Until that Leadcore snags, that fish is towing the stuff around unless it can blow the hook out. You don't necessarily need a Leader, in fact if you get the right Tubing and the Right Lead set-up then you can disguise and conceal most of it. I'll give you a clue, ditch Bolt Rigs and Semi-Fixed Leads

I've got 2 rig bins full and a rig wallet with another 10 or so in. Guess that makes 30 rigs I have tied up at the moment. As I kill a rig at the end of a session I tie a new one. A few D-rigs for Pop-ups/Snowman presentations, the most are just knotless knotted or line aligned. Vert few Stiff rigs, I think just 2. I do have a fair number of Combi rigs tied up for 1 particular water where I do need to find the right presentation. I don't play around with my rigs much, so although I do have a few different lengths and hair lengths tied most are pretty much the same!

On the Reservoir the Solar Green tubing was and Merlin blended in best. Also the Atomic Leads with the textured finished looked exactly like Gravel. Taverham, a plain uncoated well used lead and Supasilk. It may look brand new and white from new, but after a few minutes in the lake takes on the colour of the bottom Not that I ever swum down to check my Bait presentation or anything, but the Ressie results are definitley in the threads I mentioned

Yes i can see your thinking here so who knows? Lets be honest, the only way any of us are gonna know how our leaders look on the bottom is to don a pair of flippers and air tanks and dive down to actually look at them ourselves. Which has to be said i would love to do. Have swum free over Leaders and compared the differences between that and tubing. Its a long time ago, but the results are somewhere in the forum. Think it was on a Ladcore vs Tubing debate. Also Fluorocarbon leaders at some light levels are still visible. I think that is mentioned on the Colour Vision thread. *leadcore*. I was going to edit the original typo , but just think that Ladcore is a good word

May be worth typing Maggot rigs in as a search as there were a few threads about Maggot rigs recently and in the long distant past

Walked up to the owner and said, "Excuse me, how much does it cost to fish here and what are the Rules you stipulate? Is there any chance I would be allowed to fish your lakes?"

Fraid not, its my Secret Water about 5miles away from Ipswich 5 miles from ipswich eh! right google earth time Good job I haven't told in which direction , around Ipswich it looks like the Printer has spilled Blue Ink on the Map (Rod Hutchinson)

Fraid not, its my Secret Water about 5miles away from Ipswich

I forgot I had this on the PC, taken early on one of my Unknown water trips. Just loved the Blue sky and the view first thing.

The only way to find out if a rig works is to try it and compare results with your usual rigs. Preferably on a water where you will get plenty of runs. Be aware though that Carp feed differently on different waters, so what works on one water may not necessarily work on another. One of my Runs waters I can catch fish on basic braid rigs, but get complicated then the Carp don't get caught. There are few Combi rigs pictured in the Rig Tying Sticky, some with swivels in and some with a straight knot join, although most are with a Stiff Upper section and a supple last mini-link.

You saw it in a mag? Ive been doing it this way for the past 18 months. I expect the angler in question claimed it was all his idea as well When in truth, its common sense really. I have caught one or two on it but then again its hard when the nuisance fish in my water smash your maggots to pieces inside 20 minutes. Been doing it for years. Much better than those awful blunt Maggot Klips that burst every maggot you try to put on them. The Medusa rig does work well. If you put enough maggots on it, it can actually almost jump along the bottom due to the movement of the maggots.

You got it!

I've not used a Fluorocarbon leader, but have used Amnesia. Mostly for Maximum Range casting. As for the bead stop a piece of Powergum makes a good back stop.

Welcome to the Forum. Neil Wayte mentions some Kent Rivers/Canals in his book River Carping. The Medway is mentioned as as the Royal Military Canal. Some of the fishing on the Royal Military Canal is controlled by the Cinqueports Angling Society: http://www.cinqueportsanglingsociety.org That may give you a start Nick

no mate, and they have the same problem, impossible to tighten down to them but korda leads coating isnt exactly coarse is it, thats a smooth plastic coating, also, once the diamond lead thing has been dragged about a bit, not gonna be so invisible anymoe,if they are, scatches and gouges will hold debris and stuff. read the whole thread before you jump in with a comment that is totally out of context and as for clear hooks, well yet again read the posts. total farce eh you can comment on the leads when you have been using them for the last twelve months and have an informed view The Leads view is probably better put on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22174

Don't think that with some hard skinned pop-ups you would be able to squeeze air out of them. Depends on how you want to do it. Sometimes I just cut a pop-up in half and then trim the bottom bait or the pop-up until I get the balance right, sometimes add putty to the hook. Or if I want a pop-up that is sat exactly on the bottom, and critically balanced then I use a choice from some of the rigs pictured in the Rig Tying Sticky at the top of the section. The offshoot of the hookknot or the knotless knot tag end is the perfect place to add shot and/or putty. Basically the more ways you know to do something then the more adaptable you can be if you need to get something done

That maybe the case but the carps eyesight gets worse in winter, so they kind of balance things out. No need to scale down. Staying with 6s and 8s. Thats true about the eyesight, maybe, but their sucking may be reduced so it can pay to use a smaller lighter hook to compensate. Saying that I tend to use the same rigs winter or summer. If I use pop-ups/critically balanced baits though I get them absolutely spot on perfect, and its checked in the margins, not a water tub!

brutalbaz In that case have a word with Mrs_rusheslake. Its a fishery I have never heard a bad word about and a few members have been if you look at past threads (or use the search facility). Have heard a few people came close to reeling in though to get some rest Hope it helps Nick