salokcinnodrog

What happened at the Grumpy Old Mens Social? I'm running on my fish as well still! Zander, With Pop-ups other than the Hi-Viz approach I prefer to use Braid, or if I use Coated Braid I strip it back so that the hook can move. (just visible in the pics). For the Hi-Viz baits the "mini hooklink" swivel I keep the putty away from the hook end of the swivel, and let the swivel turn. Its difficult to explain, but the swivel is actually on end with the mini hooklink coming straight up. If I use an unswivelled Combi-rig for a pop-up then the final end length is always braid and the putty always goes over the knot join I also think that the Carp will actually move to get the bait in their mouthes if they want it enough. I've actually found with Pop-up rigs that I get Carp sometimes hooked in the top of the mouth. I think that this could be to do with them just closing their mouth around the bait rather than sucking it in.

Nige and I have been swapping ideas I think , either that or he's beaten me to the punch. To be honest I would avoid them! Zander and I have had the Leadcore debate already, so it's not something that I need to go into again, but search out Leadcore or Leaders and there will be a few threads come up. I'm quite happy fishing with 30lb Amnesia as a Shockleader if I need to go for maximum distance. The Black is softer than the Clear or the Green, but Black may show up more. The rest of my fishing is done with Tubing, and I put putty at the top to sink it. I've even fished without Tubing on the Mainline and caught. Anything over about 40metres the line will be drooping in an arc anyway so you don't really need to pin it down. Incidentally have a search for Korda Safe Zone Leader, not all the comments in the past have been good, ESPECIALLY not from me! Hey Kev, Don't knock it. I actually enjoyed reading a post without worrying about spelling mistakes

I'm not totally sure that the D-rig "outperforms" the standard hair rig, it just seems that I'm more comfortable fishing pop-ups that way. Stupid I know . I say don't over-complicate the issue, then I use a rig that is more difficult to tie than standard. The standard hair rig is I suppose more instant to tie, but with the D-rig I can alter the length of the hair from ring to bait should I need to, just by tying on a new piece of nylon for the bait. The other thing with a D-rig is that should the bait be blown out then it may be that the Carp feels that it has gotten rid of the problem, yet with a standard hair, if the bait is blown out the hook may also get blown out. I don't think that unless the Carp are heavily fished for that you will need to go onto that route. The D-rig is a step forward I guess(?)

I've moved this into the Rig Tying section. Difficult to say how high you want the bait, you'll have to play around and find out what works for you. I prefer to keep the pop-up as close to the Lakebed as possible, but know at times I need to play around and alter the distance from the Lake bed. If I'm using a Food Source Pop-up then it is normally mounted on a standard rig, the same as my bottom baits, or a D-rig, with a power gum stop knot mounted on the hooklink to mould putty around. For Hi-Attract Pop-ups I normally go to something totally different. A length of Amnesia from Mainline swivel (size 8 ) to mini swivel (size 10 or 12) about 15centimetres long. Then from the mini swivel a length of braid to height you want it popped up. To counter balance I use putty over the mini swivel. It is then easy enough to change the "mini hooklink" rather than the whole rig. I nearly always tie my Pop-ups on to the hook or rig ring, I don't like piercing the bait as I believe it can affect the buoyancy over a period of time. So to do that with a Standard rig I create that loop at the end with a Uni Knot, and then make the rig up with Knotless knot as standard. For the D-rig presentation I put the hook on with a knotless knot, and then with the tag (that would usually be the hair) I put the rig ring on, put the tag end back through the eye, and then blob with a cigarette lighter. Get a 20cm length of mono, about 4lb, and tie a Uni or Grinner knot LOOP at the end, and put a pop-up into the loop, then pull down tight. With the other end tie the bait onto the rig ring, with minimal clearance. Leave yourself enough slack so that you can change your bait! I've put the link to the Rig Tying Sticky as you can actually see what I mean. http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 This thread may also be interesting http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32655&highlight=popups

Depends on how you want your pop-up as well, so Carperp1's point about testing in the margins is spot on. Sometimes I want the Pop-up nailed to the Lakebed, or at whatever distance I want to fish it, so it is over-weighted. Yet at other times I want a bait that is able to be sucked in more easily with minimum weight (critically balanced) Because of the different types of presentation, if I want an "in 'yer face" I have a Combi-rig set-up, normally about 5cms above the bottom, if I want a bait that is only just above the bottom I use a standard rig, but thread on an olivette when I make them, or get the olivettes that are held on with a piece of silicone at either end if I want to change with the standard rig I have on. I don't like putting shot on the hooklink, I worry that squeezing the shot on will damage the hooklink. For Pop-up weights I tend to use Olivettes if I fish them on a standard rig, and add putty to add extra weight if they are underweighted, or put putty around a stop knot. If I use a Combi-rig, Braid to a length of Amnesia or other stiff boom section, then its putty over the knot.

Nick you could easily be a famous angler and i would love to read articles by you. They would be of quality and honesty, not something you get much of these days. Thank You, A post that brought a smile to my face and a tear to the eye Just don't tell anyone else about the tears, I'll claim I was tired

I remember reading Simon Crow saying about having the hair wrapped around the shank in the past as well, and there is me making sure that I get mine perfectly central. Thanks for the credit for the Superstiff tip, but I must admit its down to one of the Original Genius's for the idea; Jim Gibbinson. He called it The Concertina Rig. I'm more of a sponge for information, it goes in and get's remembered for when I need it. I can't think of many things I come up with first, maybe that's what I need to change to become a Famous Angler? Nick

I borrowed this quote (its only part of a reply) from the Different Strains thread, and its a subject that I've been thinking about as well. There are definitely different ways of feeding from different Carp, it has come up in the past in this thread as well. Some fish will suck and blow to eat their food, and others will scoop and pick up their food in the lips. Is this sucking and blowing fish going to get caught on the same rig as a fish which mouthes the bait? How do you make a rig that will catch the both types of feeding. Shorter rigs will catch fish that are over beds of bait, but will this same short rig catch fish feeding on this bait that are sucking the baits in? It can't be going in far enough. Is this the reason for hookpulls on some fish? Or is the short rig being taken in by fish that are picking the bait up and the lead is pulling the hook down to pr1ck the fish too early? On a longer rig with a good length hair ( both longer than usual) do both types of fish get caught? The water I have had a problem with hookholds I was playing this week, and had takes on 2 different rigs, one again, slightly more Complicated than standard. The rig that produced 3 fish was a Basic Knotless Knotted SuperNova Hooklink to ESP hook of about 20cm long. From the end of the bait I had about 10mm clearance to the shank. The other rod had on a Coated Braid Snowman presentation on a Sliding ring on the shank of the hook, the ring only able to slide to the top of the shank as there was a small Fox rubber stop. I had no clearance from the bait to the ring, the hookbait was tight, no additional hair showing through the bait. On both rigs the carp were hooked fairly and squarely and I had no problems with either. Have I gone too Complicated to start with? Dave had a Carp on a basic Amnesia Hooklink with a mono hair. Personnely I think the carp eating your bait has much more say so on whether or not you hook it. I think rigs only make a slight difference in comparrison. That may be true, but there may come a point on "Pressured" waters where you may need to go more advanced. I know I keep going on about you can change the hooklink length, and the hair length, but there may be a point where you could need to do something different. I have had to play around with rigs on this Fishery that I started fishing last year. Its not always to confuse the Carp either, it could be to avoid the weed or bottom make-up.

I borrowed this quote (its only part of a reply) from the Different Strains thread, and its a subject that I've been thinking about as well. There are definitely different ways of feeding from different Carp, it has come up in the past in this thread as well. Some fish will suck and blow to eat their food, and others will scoop and pick up their food in the lips. Is this sucking and blowing fish going to get caught on the same rig as a fish which mouthes the bait? How do you make a rig that will catch the both types of feeding. Shorter rigs will catch fish that are over beds of bait, but will this same short rig catch fish feeding on this bait that are sucking the baits in? It can't be going in far enough. Is this the reason for hookpulls on some fish? Or is the short rig being taken in by fish that are picking the bait up and the lead is pulling the hook down to pr1ck the fish too early? On a longer rig with a good length hair ( both longer than usual) do both types of fish get caught? The water I have had a problem with hookholds I was playing this week, and had takes on 2 different rigs, one again, slightly more Complicated than standard. The rig that produced 3 fish was a Basic Knotless Knotted SuperNova Hooklink to ESP hook of about 20cm long. From the end of the bait I had about 10mm clearance to the shank. The other rod had on a Coated Braid Snowman presentation on a Sliding ring on the shank of the hook, the ring only able to slide to the top of the shank as there was a small Fox rubber stop. I had no clearance from the bait to the ring, the hookbait was tight, no additional hair showing through the bait. On both rigs the carp were hooked fairly and squarely and I had no problems with either. Have I gone too Complicated to start with? Dave had a Carp on a basic Amnesia Hooklink with a mono hair.

I have split this thread. The venue question is now in UK Where to Fish. As for surface hooklinks I use an arms span. Really technical way I know, especially as I normally freeline. I just prefer that length no matter what hooklink I use.

It is rather interesting as I've nearly always fished a shorter hair and rig for Particles than I do for Boilies, probably something to do with trying to avoid the hook and bait going too far back in the mouth so as to avoid Bite-Offs. Do you find you end up with shorter rigs for particles than you do for boilies or are the 2 about the same, or do you change dependant on the feeding situation?

May be useful, but so is a Length of Hair Braid or mono. Not as specific as Korda's extenders, but I've been extending hairs that way for years and don't see why I should put money in someone else pocket for something that I can do with a little intelligence and common sense myself

All I have ever heard about Rushes Lake has been good. It may be worth using the search and seeing what other people have said about the venue, as it has come up in the past.

Sorry, I have had to remove some threads from The Fishing In France Section due to some idiot. A Reminder for you. PLEASE DO NOT RESPOND TO INSULTS, just ignore them.

The perfect hair (and hooklink) length is where the hook falls into the Carp's bottom lip, just inside the mouth. If its too long then the hook is too deep inside the mouth, if its too short then the Carp is hooked in the extremity of the lip, or you may suffer hookpulls where the hook has gone in too far forward. There are a fair few threads about rigs and hair lengths, hooklink lengths, so it may be worth digging up some of them. The one with most explanation is probably called Complicated Rigs, and is in the Advanced Carp Fishing section. The whole thread is worth a good read.

Depends! I often use Olivettes held on the hooklink either with the Rubber that comes with them, or a Piece of Amnesia threaded inside them, and if that is not enough weight then add putty onto it. If I'm using a Combi Rig then its putty on the Knot, or sometimes I prefer putty on the Hook eye itself.

Maybe even forget the Hair as well A Prawn has the same sort of shape as a hook, so just thread it up. As 666 has said, other fish are very good at beating Carp to the bait

Its not new, but this thread, is also entitled Etang Damvilliers. It may have some ideas for you on there.

thats what i was thinking korda 12 to me looks like e.s.p 8 I have noticed this before as well, miffed me a bit at first till I realised when I got home and compared and realised that I wasn't going mad! There doesn't seem to be any universal size comparisons. Different hook manufacturers often use different gauges. In some cases different tackle brands get the same hooks and even then a size 8 in one is the same as a 6 in another and they come from the same factory.

Take your pick of sizes from a size 6 up to size 12. As long as the rig does what it is designed to do, and you can get the carp to take the bait then whatever size you want to. A 10mm pop-up on a size 6 may look unbalanced, but if the Carp haven't seen it before then it may well catch.

Good Luck When You're up and Running, the details can go on here: Lakes and Fisheries in France

Thread moved into UK Where to Fish. There is a bit about Trench on the forum if you use the search but what is known is kept very quiet. If you look up the older threads then it may be worth having a quiet word and see if anyone will give you any information via PM, or you may have to buy a few drinks and get known socially

It definitely does not make for a 100% Safe way of Fishing a Running Lead. I really experimented with Leadcore on a water over Christmas/New Year time, getting into the water to check its safety aspect with regards as to its twist and trapping Run Rings, beads etc on it. It does not take much for leadcore to become dangerous (Leaders Thread and another in Advanced Carp Fishing, sorry can't remember which one). Tubing it is then. I haven't used running rigs before, I usually use Korda Inlines/Leadclips with tubing. Didn't know leadcore was prone to twisting. Valuable lesson learnt, hopefully others will read this. I'm lazy myself, and tend to buy the Solar Running Rig Kits. With the Beads provided you can make a safe Running Lead set-up and also a shocker set-up. I did have a look in Lathams Fishing Tackle, (Potter Heigham, or inside QD in Ipswich) and picked up some Zebco Run Rig Rubber and Rings. These are a nifty little set of Run Rings that go over the Swivel Buffer/protector that can also be converted to use as a Semi-Fixed set-up just by pulling the Run ring down to the base of the Buffer. I've also found that these Buffers take most sizes of Tubing. A tip for you if you want to pin your tubing down, and that is to put putty at the top of the Tubing, or on the Mainline, it sinks the top of the putty, and hopefully hides the rig tubing slightly. Some of the better putties can stick to the top of the tubing and not come off, so please check that it will pull off if you get a snap off. If you use enough so that the Run Ring can't pull off over it then you may be making a rig that is not safe.

It definitely does not make for a 100% Safe way of Fishing a Running Lead. I really experimented with Leadcore on a water over Christmas/New Year time, getting into the water to check its safety aspect with regards as to its twist and trapping Run Rings, beads etc on it. It does not take much for leadcore to become dangerous (Leaders Thread and another in Advanced Carp Fishing, sorry can't remember which one).

Not being funny, but alarms that rely on a magnetic roller wheel are seriously less sensitive than the Sundridge/Dellareed Optonics that had a light breaking vane, and that includes Dave's Giant/RT alarms. The magnet wheels provide drag (more weight to move, increased torque, extra friction to overcome) as the line is taken, more than the water surface tension that gives tension to the line on a take, (I THINK), so the line may not actually be turning the wheel. A heavier/thicker line may make a difference(?) I went from Optonics that I had fitted with 12vane roller wheels to Delkims, and the difference with the Vibration was markedly improved. The only thing I had to worry about was working out how to cut down wind bleeps that I had not been used to! As good as cheap alarms are in terms of cost, they could well be cutting down your Running Lead effectiveness, but will be good with Semi-Fixed/Bolt rigs where the Carp ARE Running. A vibration alarm could well be the way forward, even without the Running Leads as eventually if you read the thread Stoogi and I picked out, Carp may start to get wary of Bolt Rigs. At this point you may definitely need to get onto Running Leads on your water anyway.