salokcinnodrog

http://www.suffolkwaterpark.co.uk/the-lakes/jacobs-creek

One of my Nazeing rigs from last January, I still use this on a free running lead, running on the mainline, with no tubing. In fact, this rig I cut off one of my rods when changing the line: Mantis coated braid, stripped back, knotless knotted, and a hair with additional loop created for tied on pop-up, above standard bottom bait, a snowman presentation. The small piece of silicone on the shank means the hair leaves opposite the barb. This very rig produced 4 carp without changing the rig or hook. If it's sharp and good enough, no need to change it

I keep saying it, but have a look at the lakes on Earith Carp Lakes: http://www.earith-carp-lakes.co.uk/index1.htm Then if you do consider them, I can give you a lot of detail on Virginia Syndicate lake of the site

I haven't, but had a mate who has had a very good look around. It is very weedy, and yes it does make it hard. He has also looked very closely and despite claims of 30's has not seen any that really look that big. He saw plenty of doubles, maybe a few 20's, but none that really looked 30+. Bear in mind this was a few years ago when we were debating the cost being justified for the lake!

Ok, I'll try, but be warned, I haven't fished it for a few years and the Doughnut or Match lake 3 I haven't fished at all. You have a breakdown of the Main Specimen lake as above, I would say that still applies. Match Lakes 1 and 2 are perfect lakes for 'learning' fishing for carp, although I would say that you do NOT need to resort to boilies and the 2 rod route, as it fishes very well to other baits over groundbait, my favourites being luncheon meat peperami and sweetcorn. In fact I use to catch more fishing them with floaters or the lift float method than anglers fishing boilies on the lake. I outfished a couple of my mates by putting in about 10 balls of groundbait at the start of the day, and then a small ball of groundbait every 10 minutes or so when I recast. If they switch off the sweetcorn as they sometimes do, change to the meat and they will often pick up again. The carp in these lakes do hit into double figures. If you fish maggots, you can get perched out, but some of them are BIG perch. The Traditional lake is a lovely water, In fact its name Traditional is right as it is a genuine water full of all species, bream, roach, perch, carp and an occasional pike and maybe a chub or two I reckon. It is no way just a carp water. It has a major problem though, it is the lake attached to the river by an inlet stream, so when the level is high, the river and lake are joined and fish have been known to come in and out, although its the carp that seem to go out! Carp and bream get caught over pellets and the dreaded boilies, but since I use the 'back' lakes as relaxation fishing, not as specimen hunt, I'm happy catching anything, even eels, although my son hates them,

I'll cut the post down a bit as I don't want a massive quote; Doppelganger has been on the market for around 10years or so I would reckon

The degrade time was what I was wondering as well Now from memory Kryston also did a biodegradeable bait, called Doppelganger, so Marukyu could be a follow on from that? Found it on Kryston site: http://www.kryston.com/products-redone/doppelganger/ I've never used it, so I don't know how effective it is, but apparently does away with the need for bait stops

The latest prices and opening times for Suffolk Water Park. http://www.suffolkwaterpark.co.uk/pricelists-opening-times The catch reports that they publish: http://www.suffolkwaterpark.co.uk/big-lake-catch-report

I used to use a lot of plastic baits, as the top bait or visual as the sight on a snowman, or as a bait apart when fishing over plenty of Vitalin and sweetcorn. As a tipper, I found it made very little difference, I caught very few fish doing it As a hookbait over Vitalin, I found it was pretty good bait. Then I started thinking about the whys and wherefores of plastic baits fishing eternally, and had to dispose of a couple of birds that had pecked at the plastic on the rig, and hooked themselves on other peoples crack-offs that had tree'd themselves. (Still a chance with an ordinary boilie, but that being bigger would require a bigger mouthed bird). I have also seen fish hooked on peoples plastic crack-offs, and then tethered to death If a bait is fishing forever until the hook rusts away is that a good thing? what happens to the plastic if left in the environment? So if you do fish plastics, make sure that they can come off the hook/hair, they actually don't in many cases need a bait stop! Also be aware that numbers of waters have actually banned them for those reasons amongst others. Now as it happens, years ago, Neilcatching and I had a discussion about the plastic artificial baits, and I think we discovered that one of the oils used in their construction was fish based, making it an attractor in its own right, but to some extent because of their soft 'squidgy' spongy nature they would take on a flavour inside the sponge. I have had mates try dipped or glugged plastic baits, and I don't think that they really outfished the plain plastic that I was using. It was always a case of we fished over a bed of bait Marukyu or whatever their name is, have brought out some biodegradeable artificial baits which could well be worth a look: http://www.marukyu.co.uk/2013-07-21-17-53-28/credence-corn-new

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=716207145078053&set=a.102753973090043.6360.100000663214403&type=1 St. Christophe sounds so much nicer. Its the Korda muppets who renamed it

An older thread on Orchid, including a post by the manager of the site: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=51168&highlight=orchid+lake

Plain straight braided hooklink, knotless knotted, as per standard hooklink, and simply put a piece of cork between 2 Tiger nuts. Can fish it pooped up, or as a slow sinking or balanced hookbait, you can trim cork or nuts to suit. Or if popped up, use coated braid, and remove the coating to the height you want popped up bait, then cover the end in putty. http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=55800

When I first saw her approaching the net when I hooked her, you get the shivers knowing it is 20+. I had to laugh when Colin was expecting me to say around 16 as he had never seen a pike that size before. I just put my finger to my lips in a shush motion, like you do to kids. Col was feeling guilty that he had landed a fish that I wanted, but I told him that I had my chance, and fluffed it, whereas he hit and played it perfectly. I had no upset that he has now landed a pike 3lbs bigger than my largest, and I am extremely happy for him, which I think he feels difficult to understand, but I am just so chuffed for him. Maybe I should take up and become an angling guide

Any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=57775

well I now know exactly how big the pike I lost last week was! I took my friend Colin for his first ever pike trip yesterday, and on his 2nd cast with a smelt on the float rod he landed a 9lb pike, a very tentative take, that the float merely twitched on. He wasn't sure about it, so I told him to hit it. A very scrappy pike then surfaced, and had taken the bait very confidently on the spot, and was for such a take, deeply hooked About 3 hours later he flicked a ledgered smelt under the tree to the left and within 20minutes had another indication of 3 bleeps, which he hit quickly and played himself a decent pike to the landing net. As I lifted the net under it, I could only laugh and he couldn't work out why. When I lifted it onto the mat, there was around 6feet of my line that had some very large abrasion rubs across it, and my trace in the corner of its mouth, which I managed to remove easily, although his trace was very deep and in the stomach. I immediately cut t he line from his rod, so that attached to the trace was just a foot length of line, and no rod hanging around. An over officious bailiff then started to make life very awkward. I have unhooked goodness knows how many deep pike, and always found that even with a big fish, a small pair of forceps I can free deep hooked fish by going in carefully through the gill rakers, someone gently pull the line/trace, and I can unhook the trebles with no damage. I had the bailiff telling me I should go in the front, with a pair of long noses, which with my head looking at what I was doing, my left hand holding the mouth open in the gill flaps the other side and astride the fish on the unhooking mat, and my mate gently holding the line to prevent it going back in as far as I was concerned was not an option. I also had him telling me to pull the fish backward and forward in the margins to flush it through! I unhooked and sorted, weighed it and got a mat picture within 3 minutes, which with an extra trace in, I reckon is acceptable, and when I held it in the margins for release, she swam away strongly I really feel for Colin as it was the fish of a lifetime, and his 2nd ever pike at 24lb, I could not get a decent picture as the bailiff was so panicky, and he wouldn't let Colin lift it for a pic.

I went down yesterday and last week, and I will say that there is a serious litter problem that the bailiff doesn't seem to have yet overcome. While I agree that his concern in fish care, being a bailiff also includes litter picking and emptying the darn bins.

Knotless knot in mono can part, the hook eye can rub over the knot and break, so check it before every cast. If I do use a mono hooklink, then it is often the same mono as the mainline, but I do also have Amnesia, Berkley XL or Drennan Fly Leader The occasional problem with mono hairs is that they can be too stiff, therefore I would tie the hook on, and then go back to a finer more supple (thinner) hair, either dental floss, 4lb mono or a Kryston/ESP hair material. As for avoiding tangles with braided hooklinks, some occur as you pick up the lead on reeling in, the hooklink has fallen around the lead, then as you reel in, it just tightens around the lead. Ways to avoid tangles; a wet hooklink avoids trapped air, so sinking better. Always feather the cast, to throw the hooklink forward. The use of PVA, stringers and bags. Obviously the whole hooklink in the bag (and the lead), stringers attached to just the hook, or even stringers attached to the hook, and the hooklink swivel near the lead. Another possible is the use of a anti tangle rubber over the mainline/hooklink join, effectively the same as the tail rubber you use to cover the swivel/quick link as per: or even just stiffening the hooklink near that mainline join, superglue or stiffening material as like this stuff: http://www.kryston.com/products-redone/super-stiff/ http://www.kryston.com/products-redone/styx/

Notice on FB today 16th February:

micro swivel or bait screw make the rig so much easier to tie, but i dont think either way effect the effectiveness of the rig...with the exception of weight! And with a pop-up, maybe a swivel could be the way to add some weight to hold the pop-up down, but that is worth a thread in itself (Pop-ups and how they behave under water may be worth looking at ) As for the bait screw, I have always worried about piercing the skin of a pop-up, so I have tied mine on for many years

This is one of the books that whenever it comes into the Library, I borrow. I read and re-read it as many times as possible.

I have only just read this book, and I'm sad to say I was a bit disappointed. I know it is a book about the captures of some big carp, and I know it is a compiled from writings of other anglers, but I felt a bit let down in most of the content. And like others I felt the mention of some of the bad practices in fishing came up as well, which disturbed me. I know no angler is an angel, but don't big up your misbehaviour or excessive time you spend on the bank that caused your relationship with your girlfriend to break down. I know that fishing is fishing, and we are coarse fishing, but I found some of the language from some of the writers a bit coarse itself. I do not need reminding of the swear words that there are in the English language. Also it kind of takes away from the being able to give it to the younger anglers of today as I would not give it to a carp angler under his teenage years because of that. Also there were so many chapters on Yateley this, Yateley that, Heather, Arthur, Dustbin etc, that it felt too much. However, as much as that disappointed me, I did enjoy Ritchie Macdonalds chapter on the Royal Park 40, and Martin Lockes chapter on catching Sally from Savay

I use a small rig ring and apply pop ups with an avid bait screw , great little things By the look of it nick uses rings as well Nick , how are you tying a snowman to the D ? The bait is tied onto the rig ring with a fine piece of nylon, hair braid or dental floss, I've been using 4lb Mono for a few years now. To tie the bait on I tie a Uni knot loop at the end of a piece of nylon and thread in a Pop-up and then pull tight. I then put a bottom bait on the hair and tie it to the sliding rig ring. If to use it for pop-ups then instead of adding a bottom bait you can just tie on that pop-up.

Don't tell anyone, but it is a capital D, for D-rig Something to do with the shape of the hook and the attachment of the hooklink continuation Coated Braid D-rig Works with mono, fluorocarbon, stiff link, braid and coated braid. The D-rig was the next step on from the basic hair at Savay, designed I believe by Roger Smith (while Rod Hutchinson was coming up with his version of the sliding/extending hair rig). It makes a good set-up for pop-ups, snowman baits, and I have also used it successfully with bottom baits on Taverham

Alternatively have a sliding rig ring on the shank with a bead or stop to stop it sliding round the bend and off the hook, and attach your soft material hair to that