salokcinnodrog

A mate of mine used some of the Alivio range a few years ago think it was the Alivio BX's at the time, but mostly for pike. When I had a play with them I felt that they were better for pike fishing than carp fishing, although I haven't used the new DX's even though I sell them at work. Shimano are top reel manufacturers, although Mick and I at work both think their rods are 'not quite right'. 2.75lb TC should be ok for most fishing in this country, but as said heavy Method feeders may be better on a 3.0, although I did fish Ardleigh reservoir doing exactly that with 2.75 Century SP's and had no problems. Basically it depends on the rod and manufacturer quality. I wouldn't try it with more budget range rods on the lighter test curve as you could be overloading them!

I honestly do not think that £200 is enough for a full set-up, even if you do go secondhand, and actually I would not trust secondhand as you don't know how much abuse it has taken. Next thing, while Amazon may give you 'bargains', there is nothing better than going into a tackle shop and having a good feel, to get what is right for you, and hopefully a good tackle shop will give you advice and opinions without hard sell, especially when it comes to rods, although putting a reel on... Reels you may be able to pick up a bargain online, Shimano or Daiwa reels are always an easy option, ST's or DL's in the Shimano, although I can't remember the Daiwa numbers. You also have alarms, indicators and all your end tackle, which can make a dent in your money very quickly, even if you get budget alarms, and bivvy prices are probably around £100 alone, and an Oval Umbrella is £80 minimum which you can add overwrap to later. There are various tackle shops online, if you google Shimano ST or Shimano DL you will soon bring up goodness knows how many tackle shops that deal online, and it is no great shakes to expand your search while in the website to include rods as well.

No mate, I don't think you are lying at all, but I have a feeling that after years of trying and using heli-rigs that someone may feel that their results are satisfactory, but actually don't know on what they are missing, whether that is indication or takes. In fact Rod Hutchinson wrote about tight lines jammed in clips and indicators years ago not giving indications in The Carp Strikes Back. Pretty much with any semi-fixed lead you only get a proper screamer when a fish runs away from you, if they run towards you get a dropback, but only once the stretch has been taken out. If a fish moves in a perfect arc, as some do, you may get a few bleeps on a Delkim type alarm, but a roller wheel won't move. Effectively you are getting screamers from definite takes, making you think the set-up is brilliant, but how many are you or we missing from wary fish that are able to eject the hook, or from missed takes? This is something I have tested, admittedly a silty bottomed lake (*see note below) at ranges no more than 50metres. I have seen carp eject rigs very easily with single bleeps or absolutely no indication other than a rod tip knock on helicopter leads, fished fixed, free running to a stop or as a Chod rig in all its various incarnations. The best indication system I have found with a heli-lead is a springer arm indicator, tightened up as much as possible, so that as a fish takes the springer arm tightens, the clip lets go, and line is allowed to take, almost a rubber band breaking, slow to start as you stretch, then accelerate as the band snaps. If a fish drops back towards you the arm just springs down. The size lead can also make a difference, you want as heavy lead as you can cast, to basically get the line as tight as possible, but in terms of a run, as light as possible, in other words there is no perfect lead size. I have a preference for 3oz leads, but at shorter ranges a very light lead may be far better. I use 3oz for a number of reasons, it is the right casting weight for my rods, I can get maximum distance should I need to give it the bigg'un on my waters, and for running leads it is the weight that stays still and the line is pulled through the run ring. I do think though that at shorter ranges with heli-leads I should go lighter, but I have a far better run rate with running leads and that 3oz, so I use that as a confidence thing as well. * I also have a feeling that the lakebed itself can be responsible for different indications, and probably not what you would expect. A clear gravel, sand or clay lakebed where the line is not sinking in can give better indication than over lake beds where the line and lead is sunk or sitting in silt or weed. .

Gardner Pro for me everytime, in light if you want it camouflaged against the lakebed

Maver Match This Grip Stops! Basically like a small ledger or float stop bead that slide onto the line I use them for stopping my swimfeeders sliding down over my loop to loop when roach fishing, but they will hold a lead for a 'shocker', but in the event of a snap-off slide free.

I'm not sure where I heard it, but I believe that the bait holding barbs came on sea fishing hooks by accident, where a machine cut was 'grabbing' the hook too tightly as the metal went through the forming process. However if there is a definite flat, then I am sure that Eagle Claw would want to know about it to rectify the problem.

it is actually only heli set-ups that I would lose fish on on a regular basis, hookpulls, and also break-offs, where I am positive that swivels were abrading the mainline, (pre modern era heli beads, or my own adaptations I came up with). Most of my dodgy indications also came on heli-rigs, definitely more than on inline or pendant semi-fixed, and I have found that on a variety of waters, with high fish stocks and low fish numbers. I have also used pop-ups, balanced, critical and bottom baits, and experimented and compared lead set-ups With those I am convinced that it is the heli system that at times is a failure in itself. However, it's main saviour is simply that for long distance fishing, it is the most tangle free system I have found, with one exception, but that edge I may keep to myself for a while

Sorry Adam, I have played around with helicopter set-ups for over 20 years, as a silt rig, as a first choice for short or long distance, with or without the dreaded l-core, with slack or tight lines and it is responsible for a lot of funny takes and indications. I definitely set it up right for long distance fishing, I don't mean a normal chuck, I mean fished at around 130metres, the line as tight as I could get it to the indicator, and I still ended up with aborted indication and a lost fish when the fish simply kited left. I don't use back leads at all. This was two weeks ago, but I can give other instances from 20years worth of use. Other anglers have also commented and said the same in articles in the press, and I don't think we can all be wrong. I remember one in particular as the angler concerned was fishing Wraysbury and was out in a boat checking his rigs down

Calm down! My point wasn't aimed at it being rubbish you plonker, it was that Sufix lines may not be easy to get hold of when existing stocks are gone. It is UV that kills line so storing it out of sunlight it should be ok, although I must admit 12years may be stretching it.

Ok, I don't like leaders, and will not use them unless I have to, usually for distance fishing as a shock leader. However recently on the lagoons recently in some particularly gravelly swims I have had to resort to a 'rubbing' or shock leader to combat the gravel and crays. If I go into weedy or snaggy swims they come off and I go back to naked as I don't want to risk the chance of a leader snagging and tethering. I would much rather the hooklink swivel to mainline knot gave way so the maximum the fish is carrying around is a hooklink. Basically with a leader you transfer the weak point further up the line towards the rod tip, as it is usually the first knot that breaks, not the hook link. I go back to my run rings, so that the ring can get over the end of the leader, and with no weight on the line the fish can eject the hook. I do however always worry 'what if the fish got to snags?' before it has ejected the hook, while it is trailing a leader. Kevin Maddocks tested this for Carp Fever, he actually struck with a friend holding the hook at ranges and a spring balance to test the pressure put on. Sufix Synergy, a very good line, however Sufix are owned or branded by Shimano, which creates a problem as Shimano also brand and sell their own fishing line, so the subsidiaries tend to lose out. Just to prove this sorry here is the Sufix webpage, check your region: www.sufix.com This may mean that some Sufix line being sold now may be older stock! As an addition to this, I have tested Shimano Specimen line and it won't get put on my reels.

I prefer stockings Whatever colour you manage to ladder after a good night Actually tan stockings or tights tend to blend in to your bait better than black

I don't bother softening mixers, I use them straight from the Bakers Complete bag. The big chunky ones are hookbaits, the mixed colours and shapes are freebies. Keep mixers tight to the shank of the hook, as light as hook as you can safely get away with. A Drennan Super Specialist or Barbel hook in 8 or 10 works well. Like you I don't do very well with fake ones either, nor when chub fishing, they definitely do prefer the real ones. One thing I have noticed, is that the big chunky squares are very oily, you can see a circle of oil spread out from it, that may actually hide the hook or line (maybe?). I prefer most of the hooklink to float, only the last inch or so to sink. Come to think of it, there is some good info on here http://www.carp.com/topic/22213-how-to-float-a-dog-biscuit-help/?hl=%2Bfloater+%2Bfishing#entry279806

I absolutely love floater fishing, so like you have dedicated kit. A 1.5 or 2lb test curve barbel or even an Avon rod works a treat, and I pair mine with a Shimano 6000 size baitrunner or 4000 Super Aero with fighting drag. Sounds strange but I use the same combination for chub fishing, either floaters, stalking or ledgering, and it has landed carp to over 20 as well as chub over 4lb.

I must admit I dislike helicopter rigs unless I absolutely have to use them, they can be responsible for no indication, funny takes and lost fish. In fact I was using a helicopter rig a couple of weeks ago when I landed a large mirror. The same rod recast also gave two bleeps an hour later, no movement on the indicator, but when I got up in the morning the lead had been moved quite a distance, at least 20metres from the line angle, even with Delkims turned up to maximum sensitivity! The Chod rig is often quoted as being brilliant on silt, but again, it is a helicopter bomb on the end of the line set-up. Helicopter rigs undoubtedly give good presentation on silt, but it is the lack of indication. You really should be hitting single bleeps and watching the line. You could go back to simple, lead on a lead link or longer hook-link to get your bait in the right place, which is my preferred method of dealing with silty waters.

There were a couple of fish in the lock area I would have put around 6lb.

Only the second chub trip of the season, all on floating dog biscuits, freelined down with the current. Three today, 2lb 8oz, not pictured, 2lb 9oz and a 3lb 9oz. Looking a bit tatty around the tail end, so I took a picture for reference. Better looking and snuck out from climbing along a tree root until I was mid flow.

If it is any use to you: For me, I do try to keep it as simple as possible. I don't want to cast out, and then retrieve a rig that resembles a ball of cotton wool, tangled around itself. I don't usually want to be faffing around with complications, and I don't often do quicklinks. The reason for always using a swivel to join mainline to hooklink is that it is easy, simple, and I can hide swivel in buffer bead, which I think reduces the movement that a fish has before you get an indication. A swivel also means I can cut away any fragged length of mainline the running lead has slid up and down on. A swivel is a simple join to cut a length of fragged mainline away, then retie. As an add, I say I don't want many complications, but I have mentioned this before, I want to be able to adjust the hair length to deal with the situation, so I do use a sliding ring on the shank. The picture and quote below is from the Sticky at the top of the section, but this rig has accounted for numerous carp, some over 30lb, and also a very large tench.

Not very specific, but they are only worth what someone will pay for them. Personally I would not be selling them, a bulletproof set of alarms, far better looking than many others around today

Some good advice so far, especially from Steveo with the vid screen shot, but I will go back to basics. I do NOT think that you can get a good self take with a camera phone, unless you have a screw in adaptor that fits your bankstick or tripod. I do not have a remote trigger or button for my camera, and as far as I know my Fuji Finepix A330 does not support one, although I can connect it to my computer and Ipad to download pics. I would think that most basic Finepix cameras are the same. I keep on thinking to get better photographic equipment, it is money I am wary of spending, but I would be looking at the Canon Eos range of cameras, either new or secondhand. I would also be adding a remote trigger, probably a knee or hand squeeze air bulb, because that is what I am comfortable with, not a whistle or clap. As I mentioned in the July Catches thread I frame the area I am going to take pictures of, you can see behind me and that tench, I have a camou screen; that is the top of my picture, then one side is side of the bivvy, the other the end of the unhooking mat or cradle. This means when I arrive at the lake I position my bankstick with camera adaptor fitted and attach my camera so that my area is ready to photograph. In this case to check the focus, I used my chair as a focussing point. Then so it does not add to thieving temptation or get weather damaged I take the camera off and keep it safe in my bivvy. It is the work of a few seconds to rescrew it in the event of a fish.

The only coated or plain hooklink materials I use are Kryston, since the 1990's Mantis, Merlin, Snakebite, and then Amnesia for combi or mono links. As for hooks it is a choice between Gardner Mugga or Solar 101's for most bottom bait fishing. Quite simply it is a case of they work for me, and if it isn't broken, don't fix it

I tend to use a standard knotless knot, with an added line aligner as my starting point on most waters. Hooklinks are simple, braid, coated braid or mono. Since I have been using Kryston since the 1990's with no problems I see no reason to change what works for me, so it's Mantis and Merlin. The mono is usually Amnesia, quite stretchy, but is where I do change my hair attachment to a floss or braid hair. The coated braid is also handy in that it makes a pop-up rig easy to attach putty to, attach the putty where you have stripped back to.

Do you have crayfish in your water? Are you fishing slack or tight lines? Are there any raised areas with troughs behind between where the line enters the water and the end tackle?

And is present in Green Lipped Mussels, fungi and other items. Blitzed sweetcorn, good cloudy ingredients in groundbait, and definitely worth playing with in boilies, as liquid content, but you will still need some binding content like powdered egg.

Welcome to the forum. I usually just put lobworms straight on the hook, and a big hook at that for chub or carp, a size 2 or 4! A lot of my fishing with worms was actually stalking with a lift float, or for chub freelined, so takes were often pretty quick after casting.

As above, it's being sure and getting what works. On Taverham I could drop to 12lb Sensor and know I could get fish out of the lilies. I would not consider going any lower breaking strain than that, yet when Weybread Number 1 was clear and weed free 8lb line with a leader for long distance fishing was suitable. Again on Taverham, I could fish up to snags as safely as possible with that same 12lb line, and hitting takes as soon as they happened I landed most fish. The few I lost were down to hook pulls, not tackle getting snagged! Yet on Brackens I would not even consider fishing near the snags with line less than 15lb. As for fishing The Pads, after May I avoided the swim, you just did not have the room to play a fish without it getting into the massive bed of them, no matter what strength line. It is actually likely that many anglers are fishing 20lb line without knowing. I keep on going on about line diameter to breaking strain, well a line that is 0.40mm is a 20lb line, not 15, so many, maybe even most anglers are fishing stronger than they think. Years ago there was a thread called 'Overgunned', it may be worth a read even now