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Posted

at the moment i buy ready made rigs from my local tackle shop as i can't quiet grasp tieing my own.

 

Im stretching my knowledge and ild like to give Snowman rigs a go.

 

First off i just want to ask how do i go about making them? does it need a pop up or can i just put two/three boillies on the end of the rig, further more will it fit onto a ready made rig or will i need to learn to tie my own to fit them on? please note im using 15mm boillies?

 

After which im interested in learning about Fixed, Semi-Fixed and Free Running rigs. Please correct me if the names are wrong.

 

At the moment i use fixed rigs, well i think there fixed, this is the item i use for my rig:

http://www.anglinglines.com/blog/wp-content/images/2008/05/lead-in-clip.jpg

 

also after reading some posts i think i may push the clip on too hard? is it suppose to lie quiet loose or tight?

 

Im interested in learning about the other two types of ways of attacthing rigs so if you'ld be able to show me what i need to do to be able to create them or if theres a product that has them made up already that i can purchasethat would be super.

 

Also im very interested in the pro's and con's of each rig

 

Thanks for all your help! - Jack

Posted

If you want to make snowman rigs you are best to learn to tie rigs,

all you need to learn is the knotless knot, there is some good diagrams on here do a search, its very easy, snowman bait i would suggest a 15mm bottom bait with 10mm pop up.

 

be careful with the lead clip set up, if the tail rubber cant come of to discarge the lead, then it becomes a fixed rig, or death rig, look at getting some inline leads (fox are best)

 

free running is also very safe and very easy to set up, simple bomb with swivel thread mainline through lead, then a rubber shock bead then rig tied to mainline (swivel) hope this helps :wink:

Posted

Hmm lots of questions, not sure if i really know the answer to them all.

 

It all depends on the presentation your looking for and what you feel happy fishing with. If you want a poped up presentation or a presentation where the baits just standing up then go for pop ups. But if you looking for pretty much just a doubled up bait sitting on the bottom then your normal boilies will do fine.

 

In terms of rigs, if your using 15mm boilies and you want to snowman two of them then your hairs going to need to be 15mm + 15mm + 10mm (i leave 10mm gap between bait and hook, just personal preference, some leave 5mm), so your looking for quite a long hair which you will find hard to buy ready made.

 

So yes you will need to start making your own rigs, and is something you really should learn to improve your fishing.

 

In my experience everyone have their own ways of tying rigs and what rigs they prefer to use. If I was you id purchase a book with all the well known rigs in. This way you can browse them all, choose your favourite set up, make ulterations depending on your preference and fishing senario and then go from there.

 

But 99% of the time Ive found simplicity is best.

 

P.s

 

Korda Extenda stops can be very helpful if you tie your hair too short.

Posted

right so a free running rig would be - hair rig to swivel shock absorber from swivel to mainline, then an inline lead.

 

is that it?

 

 

And yes i think i shall purchase a book on making rigs.

 

Would braid be the best option to go with for hair rigs?

 

adding on that what use is shrink tube?

 

 

also ild just like to ask what type of lead rig is the more popular? which tends to be used more in the world of fishing?

Posted

I personally use coated braid, Soft and Stiff and usually remove the coating around the hook to about and inch to allow the hook to turn better. Also helps pin everything to the bottom even better.

 

I personally no longer use shrink tubing with my current rigs but its always useful to have some in your table box.

Posted

ive been using atomic products jellie wire jaxx :lol: v v nice, as for shrink tubing on the hook when you place your short section onto your hook shank leave a bit over the eye of your hook, say about10mm, then boil your kettle hold onto your hook AT THE HOOKS BEND WITH PLIERS, when the kettle is at its peak pass your hook over the steam and slightly apply pressure at the hooklenght material end, putting a slight bend to your tubing, this will turn the hook in the carp's mouth on the take, BE CAREFUL OF YOUR FINGERS WHEN USING THE KETTLE :cry: as for your lead set up, i would still use the set up your using however i think your tail rubber is way way to tight on the lead clip, what i do is do away with the tail rubber and just carefully slice a tiny piece of the tail rubber off the widest part of the tail rubber, then it just looks like a little rubber washer :lol: roll this simply over your lead clip, and when you get a run the clip will discharge your lead far more easily, hope this helps.

 

sime

Posted

so let me get this correct, your supposed to loose your lead everytime you get a run :S

 

i understood you'ld loose it if you got a snag so as if the line snaps and the fish takes it through some snags the pressure would cause the lead to fall off, but i didn't think every time you got a run

Posted

I very rarely aim to lose the lead on a run, in fact unless I'm snag fishing I don't want to, and for that have a read of this:

https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=44282

 

Is this any use?

Lead set-up thread:

https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603

 

Some rig pics:

https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

 

To be honest I would still keep it as simple as possible, the majority of fish caught are caught on a basic knotless knotted or line aligner hook set up. It is down to our wish to play around in many cases that we confuse the issue, even if some of the rigs in the 3rd link are a little bit more confusing and I'm as guilty of that as anyone at times.

 

Go to this section of the forum:

https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewforum.php?f=104

 

There are threads covering Lead set-ups, what hooklink material, hopefully just about everything you could wish for.

 

The simplest way to tie just about every rig is with the knotless knot, you can tie it with baits on so you get the hair length right. If you wish, then you can add shrink or silicon tubing before you tie on your swivel or quicklink.

Posted

Wow, since reading that im supposed to loose my lead on every take im strongly considering switching over to inline leads.

 

I understand that its about the fish and i don't want to hurt them or even kill them myself, i just really, really think its bizzare loosing a lead everytime we hook a fish. That you might not even land i might add.

 

Surely theres got to be another way of putting a lead on other than inline were you don't loose it per run but can still be enviromentally friendly to the fish?

 

(i'ld just like to add, using lead clips means the lead comes off everytime right? i use them myself at the moment but i think i push the tubing on too far creating a death rig, apologies up untill now i didn't realise that it did that. I thought that it would come off only when it was direly needed, not fix on permenantly.)

 

Maybe this set up is for me

http://www.anglersnet.co.uk/rig-section/carp-rigs/semi_fixed_running_rig.html?print

 

could anyone explains how its put into play in a very newbie way of text.

 

You make it so the lead is secure then when it gets a take it comes loose but stays on the line? correct?

Posted
Wow, since reading that im supposed to loose my lead on every take im strongly considering switching over to inline leads.

 

I understand that its about the fish and i don't want to hurt them or even kill them myself, i just really, really think its bizzare loosing a lead everytime we hook a fish. That you might not even land i might add.

 

Surely theres got to be another way of putting a lead on other than inline were you don't loose it per run but can still be enviromentally friendly to the fish?

 

(i'ld just like to add, using lead clips means the lead comes off everytime right? i use them myself at the moment but i think i push the tubing on too far creating a death rig, apologies up untill now i didn't realise that it did that. I thought that it would come off only when it was direly needed, not fix on permenantly.)

 

Maybe this set up is for me

http://www.anglersnet.co.uk/rig-section/carp-rigs/semi_fixed_running_rig.html?print

 

could anyone explains how its put into play in a very newbie way of text.

 

You make it so the lead is secure then when it gets a take it comes loose but stays on the line? correct?

 

Don't assume you have to lose the lead on every take, thats the point. In a snag free lake you don't need to.

 

Just make sure that whatever lead attachment you use that in the event of a snap off the fish is not trailing around a rig and lead, which is one of the reasons I hate lead clips; the swivel is so tight into the bottom of the clip it CAN'T come out, the clip has not been trimmed down, or the rubber is (accidentally) pushed too far onto the clip.

 

I actually think that John Roberts Beads are better:

leadclip.jpg

 

 

For Running leads there are various manufacturers versions available, Fox, Solar, Gardner, Korda. All consist of a Run Ring that will slide up and down the mainline (or tubing), but they are basically a Run ring being stopped from running down to the hooklink by a buffer bead of some sort, so for once you don't need to buy components from one manufacturer to suit or fit perfectly.

Posted

Jaxx, loads of questions. Great! It's really, really rewarding to see someone who is willing and determined to improve as an angler and is not embarassed to ask for guidance from those who've been at the game for a while.

 

This forum is the font of all knowledge and every day can be a schoolday.

I wish I'd had this level of information when I was setting out to be an angler.

 

Enjoy and ask away!

 

Ian

Posted

Thanks Ian.

 

I've made my decision and its definately down to semi-fixed rigs and helicopter rigs!

 

Ill just have to go down to a tackle shop and buy the parts to make them i guess.

 

Any advice on which one is a better rig to use?

Posted

have a look around mate, i tend to keep away from some of the dearer products in the terminal tackle department [ sorry mr korda] tend to lean to products that are reasonably priced work well, and most important for me is safe to use,just keep asking and people on here will usually be obliging :wink: all the best :wink::lol:

Posted

Jaxx, once you've started constructing your own rigs you'll soon realise that it's all rather easy after all.

 

You will very soon be progressing beyond what you originally thought to be the ideal rigs and trying all sorts.

 

Then you'll realise that the KISS system is the way to go.

 

Keep It Simple, Stupid. No insult intended or implied....just trust me on this.

 

Simple rigs have caught some very large fish, worldwide. Remember that all you're trying to do is to tempt a fish into taking your bait and hook.

 

Might I suggest that the bait and hook are the two most important elements? All you've got to do is decide how best to offer both to them carp.

 

I almost always use inline leads, free running, with coated braid hooklinks. The coating can be peeled back to form a hinge effect if using pop-up or balanced baits, or left on if you prefer your bait/hook to be lying on the bottom.

 

A good alternative to coated braid hooklinks is flourocarbon which is translucent and takes on he colour of it's surroundings. You'll need to take extra care over your knots as it's fairly stiff and unforgiving but worth the extra effort.

 

If you take advantage of the search facility at the top of the page you will find lots of information on this topic.

 

Good luck and good fishing.

 

Ian

Posted

Cheers i will start with the kiss effect immediately.

 

After however realising im actually using death rigs at the moment without realising im going to stop immediatly, switching to semi fixed rigs just for the pure fact i need the weight of the lead to hook as im always night fishing at a small lake which i tuck up my bait close to objects, a post and island to be precise. So i feel i need the carp to be hooked before i can let it wonder around the lake or spit out my hook in my delayed reaction time.

Posted
Cheers i will start with the kiss effect immediately.

 

After however realising im actually using death rigs at the moment without realising im going to stop immediatly, switching to semi fixed rigs just for the pure fact i need the weight of the lead to hook as im always night fishing at a small lake which i tuck up my bait close to objects, a post and island to be precise. So i feel i need the carp to be hooked before i can let it wonder around the lake or spit out my hook in my delayed reaction time.

 

If you frequently fish close to snags, like the post you mention, you need to be fishing pretty well locked up, ie with no free movement of line from your reel, and always stay close to your rods as they can get pulled in! At night, don't even think of zipping the bivvy door up........

 

And you're right, under those circumstances you need immediate hooking of the fish so a fixed or semi-fixed rig would be my choice, too.

 

Ian

Posted

well i've just treated myself to a nash double top 2 extreme so the peak will allow me to keep the door open even in harsh rain, but clambering out of my bedchair bag can still stake 4-5 seconds

Posted

I have never had a problem with snags and running leads, in the day I have the rods locked up, pointing at my rigs witha 2-3" drop on the bobbins. As soon as a fish picks my rig up, I know about it in that cuircumstance as the semi-slack line combined with a running rig tells my instantly, I have tried tight lines and lead clips to snags but I dont get on with it as I feel the indication is poor with this set up. Although Imust add I use size 6 barbed drennaen barbel hooks, 15lb mainline, 3.5lb rods and bigpits for snag fishing, so I can really apply pressure if the fish is heading directly for the snag.

Posted

Josh, good points. Have a closer look at what Jaxx said...he actually positions his bait/hook beside the snags. Not much room for manouevre, regardless of the strength of kit being used.

 

Ian

Posted

I have only been carp fishing since sept but fishing for about 30 yrs, imo i would just keep everything as simple as you can, i use a simple free running 1oz lead, coated hook length and size 10 hook, i dont claim to be an expert and i have plenty to learn but i think its a good place to start cathching some fish.

 

Just make sure you buy some decent baits as no matter what rig you use its the bait that attracts the fish.

Posted
Josh, good points. Have a closer look at what Jaxx said...he actually positions his bait/hook beside the snags. Not much room for manouevre, regardless of the strength of kit being used.

 

Ian

 

I have never really done much fishing where my rig is next to snags, only where they are on the far bank and I am casting to them, so I have no experience in that department! I could imagine I would use a totally different set up in that position, lead clip to drop the lead, tight lines with the rod paralell to the snags and basically quiver tip, wait for the tip to wack round, strike and hold on!

Posted

At night I would move the rod further away from the snags TBH, the fish are more likely to venture further out of the snag under the cover of darkeness, I dont really think there is a safe way of fishing sideways onto snags when your fast asleep, you need your whits about you, the 5 secs it take for you to wake up and hit the rod the fish could easily of buried its self deep in them

Posted
At night I would move the rod further away from the snags TBH, the fish are more likely to venture further out of the snag under the cover of darkeness, I dont really think there is a safe way of fishing sideways onto snags when your fast asleep, you need your whits about you, the 5 secs it take for you to wake up and hit the rod the fish could easily of buried its self deep in them

 

I agree. I also think it takes more then 5 seconds for most of us. Do we really wake on that first beep of the alarm, or just think we do? How can we really be sure?

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