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Posted (edited)

I’ve noticed back leads come in a wide range of weights. How do I pick the right one for different fishing scenarios?

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Also, I once came across a type of back lead on YouTube. I remember it’s designed to flip over upon entering the water, and it automatically releases from the line when a fish is hooked or when you lift the rod. I thought it was really well-engineered. The only thing I recall is that it has a bit of green on it. Does anyone remember the model number? I just can’t find it anymore.

Edited by S34MH1
Posted
17 hours ago, S34MH1 said:

I’ve noticed back leads come in a wide range of weights. How do I pick the right one for different fishing scenarios?

There are no hard/fast rules but generally you'd go heavier for longer distance work and lighter for close-in stuff.

I personally am not a fan of back leads. They reduce sensitivity and if there's any weed or debris around they can cause big problems. I remember watching a lad having to land a fish in a boat a few years ago.... his back lead had snagged in the weed. Once released, the rig/fish was also weeded up. It was like a spiders web of line around his swim, looked like a nightmare. He lost the fish.

If I had to use one, I'd use a flying back lead. The important thing is getting that last few feet pinned down.

Posted
31 minutes ago, Golden Paws said:

It wasn’t FOX. I came across two very unique backleads on YouTube back then. One was the Multifunction Backlead 2.0, and the only thing I remember about the other one is that it had hints of green and also flipped over once submerged in water. I’m not sure if it was a British, German, or some other brand—it was extremely niche.

Posted (edited)
34 minutes ago, yonny said:

There are no hard/fast rules but generally you'd go heavier for longer distance work and lighter for close-in stuff.

I personally am not a fan of back leads. They reduce sensitivity and if there's any weed or debris around they can cause big problems. I remember watching a lad having to land a fish in a boat a few years ago.... his back lead had snagged in the weed. Once released, the rig/fish was also weeded up. It was like a spiders web of line around his swim, looked like a nightmare. He lost the fish.

If I had to use one, I'd use a flying back lead. The important thing is getting that last few feet pinned down.

I don't quite get it. We only use it to weigh the line down into the water, not to set the hook.

Edited by S34MH1
Posted
On 10/06/2026 at 14:11, S34MH1 said:

I’ve noticed back leads come in a wide range of weights. How do I pick the right one for different fishing scenarios?

------------

Also, I once came across a type of back lead on YouTube. I remember it’s designed to flip over upon entering the water, and it automatically releases from the line when a fish is hooked or when you lift the rod. I thought it was really well-engineered. The only thing I recall is that it has a bit of green on it. Does anyone remember the model number? I just can’t find it anymore.

 

7 hours ago, yonny said:

There are no hard/fast rules but generally you'd go heavier for longer distance work and lighter for close-in stuff.

I personally am not a fan of back leads. They reduce sensitivity and if there's any weed or debris around they can cause big problems. I remember watching a lad having to land a fish in a boat a few years ago.... his back lead had snagged in the weed. Once released, the rig/fish was also weeded up. It was like a spiders web of line around his swim, looked like a nightmare. He lost the fish.

If I had to use one, I'd use a flying back lead. The important thing is getting that last few feet pinned down.

Like @yonny I do not like using backleads, for the reasons he states.

If you add a backlead, you add an extra angle, and angles reduce indication. 

I will only use them if there are boats on the water I'm fishing, where I need to get the line below the boat hulls or engine.

When I do need to use them, it is the Gardner Tackle Captive Back lead for me.

The majority of the time I can get the line running along the lakebed by sinking my rod tips below the surface. That is on reservoirs and lakes. 

Add in any distance above 40metres and the line runs along the lakebed anyway, unless there are features like gravel bars between your rod tips and the end tackle.

 

 

Posted
5 hours ago, salokcinnodrog said:

 

Like @yonny I do not like using backleads, for the reasons he states.

If you add a backlead, you add an extra angle, and angles reduce indication. 

I will only use them if there are boats on the water I'm fishing, where I need to get the line below the boat hulls or engine.

When I do need to use them, it is the Gardner Tackle Captive Back lead for me.

The majority of the time I can get the line running along the lakebed by sinking my rod tips below the surface. That is on reservoirs and lakes. 

Add in any distance above 40metres and the line runs along the lakebed anyway, unless there are features like gravel bars between your rod tips and the end tackle.

 

 

So what weight do you use?

Posted

It's so long since I bought them I don't think that the 1oz version is still in the range.

The only reason I used them at all was when I fished in the sailing club swims at Nazeing Meads on the Central Lagoon if boats were in use, which is over 7years ago.

It was solely to take the line below boats hulls. 

Posted (edited)

I have various weights of the fox captive back leads.

i don't use them religiously but when I need them they are in a lead pouch in the bucket ready to go along with the solar flying back leads back from donkeys years ago when Richard walker was a boy lol.

 

don’t strike when using them either just pick up the rod and let the line tighten and mostly they then drop off.

if weed has gone around the gate and stops it opening a little flick of the rod usually sets it free.

 

Edited by framey

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