carpepecheur

I agree that the feeding situation needs to be created. There is nothing is like the 100% confidence you get when you see bubbles coming up from your patch. It seemed to me that the tone of this thread was to suggest improvements to the anti-ejection properties of a rig rather than just accept current rigs. IMHO, I think the problem with a lot of rigs is that the hook simply hangs below the bait. All the carp has to do is to open its mouth and let it drop. I think the solution is to try and make the hook move away from that position once the carp stops sucking it up. This is why I do not fish my boilies on a hair BUT, because the hair is a very tried and tested technique, I think the “Savay” idea may be the way to go.

I tested that idea some time ago. The idea is that if the hook slides along the side of the mouth those arms turn the hook into the flesh. However, it works against you if the hook is on its back.

Watching similar videos I came to a different conclusion. When carp are feeding the food is wafting about in the disturbance. Anything attached to a line behaves differently and stands out like a sore thumb.

Yes I did wonder about using two diverging whiskers. Any idea why this is no used more? It is such a cheap and easy mod if it works.

I rarely fish boilies on the hair for reasons already mentioned above but if I did, I would probably make a small modification as shown in the following diagram. A short length of slightly stiff mono is whipped to the shank of the hook using the No Knot used to tie the hair. When the carp sucks up the bait, it pulls the line straight, making it easier to pass into the carp’s mouth – as shown in first part of diagram. The second the carp stops sucking, the line slackens and takes up the position in the second diagram. The stiff mono catches one side of the carp’s mouth and pushes the hook into the other side of the carp’s mouth. Just an idea?

Hi Commonly. Sorry my fault. I should have listed my mods in a different order. Put the washer in first. Then, if you wish, put the inline insert into the lead passing through hole in washer. I much prefer inline leads because, in my experience, I get fewer occasions when the hook link tangles around the lead. Note that the insert will go through the hole in the washer and serves the extra bonus of preventing it coming loose if the fit of the washer in the lead is not tight enough. Interested to know how you get on. Bon chance.

Sorry, it is only 50 km from me but I never hear it mentioned. All I can tell you is, it is a public lake so you will need a license (abou €100), night fishing is permitted as is a boat. There are carp there but I have no idea how big. There was a mention on a forum a little while ago that it might have been netted illegally for carp to stock private fisheries but I cannot confirm it. Were you planning to come out just to fish it?

Do you mean the one near Mas d'Azil in Ariege (9) ?

Wow they ARE interesting. It looks like you will get more grip per weight with those. I would make some modifications. 1) I would remove the swivel, drill a hole place an insert and convert to an inline lead (personal preference only) 2) I would force a washer through the widest part of the centre hole to form a large gripper fin, that will not tangle. I have tried to make a diagram to show the idea but my Photoshop skills are rather limited. I hope you get the idea.

Not sure what shops you have near you but in art and craft shops around here you can by a large bag of large polystyrene balls for very little cost. Shove a bamboo barbeque skewer though, paint it black and you have an expendable marker float.

This is going to sound ridiculous but the best colour for a marker float is black. As part of my job, I used to plot the movement of water currents by putting out markers and following them. A black flag was always the easiest to find. If you visit a fishing port you will see that the most common marker flag used for crab and lobster pots is black.

The collar has always worked for me. I would avoid any ideas of a wired lead (a la sea fishing style). Even if you find a way to put lay your bait out carefully, small fish, crayfish or the swirling effect from fins of larger fish, will always find a way of causing a tangle. But good luck. I am fortunate where I fish, there are no rules. You could perhaps do a “Barnard Castle”

You did not respond to my suggestion of a collar on the lead to improve grip so may I make another suggestion? If you go for something more conventional like a Fox Kling On, you can improve its effectiveness by adding a small barrel weight a foot or two above the lead. It works a bit like the chain on a ships anchor by flattening the angle at the lead. It is particularly effective in deeper water.

I use a technique that might help solve your problem. I put a large metal washer on a bomb shaped lead. Once cast out, I tighten the line against it gently until it finds a grip on the bottom. It will take a lot more line tension than an ordinary gripper lead. I use it for a different reason. I like to fish your type of water with a very tight monofilament (=stretchy) line. It only takes a very slight vertical movement for a fish to release the lead. The stretch in the tight line causes a movement of the lead when it slips which in turn panics the fish into bolting before it has had time to eject the bait.

My dog understands everything I say. Top of his vocabulary list is the word "fishing". His favourite subject.

I second this advice.

I fish a local reservoir 2 Km long. It is difficult to find any features. However, there is a very steep bank which flattens off at the bottom. In my lake the carp (and bream😒) tend to follow the bottom of the slope parallel to the bank. I found that a huge amount of pre-baiting along this line makes fishing it relatively easy.

The best fishing book of all time IMHO is “Rod, pole or perch” by Colin Willock who some people may remember was the first editor of the angling times. Here is just a snippet “Fishermen may be many things, but they are not patient. They are probably the most impatient men on earth. They are not just sitting there waiting for something to happen. They are expecting, even willing, something to happen, now, the very next second, or the second after that. Even when it doesn’t happen, they still can’t believe that it won’t, but they know that the very first instant that they stop being prepared for it to happen, it will. That is why they are impatient.” Now who does not relate to that observation?

I just repeated the clip and slowed it down 10 times using a camera and fast shutter speed. Although the bait is only very briefly in the "mouth" you can see that the point of the hook bangs the side very aggressively twice before ejecting. If that doesn't nail a fish nothing will

First of all Crucian, you have put your finger on the only downside of using this rig and that is you have to tie a new one every time you need to replace the bait. I actually tie the rig the other way round. First I take a length of the most supple braid I can find. I tie on the hook using a half blood knot to a straight eye or spade end knot if it is an offset eye. Then I thread on the pop up and push it towards the hook. I then add a shot between hook and pop up so that it is just enough to turn the pop up to make the hook hang below it but not enough to sink the pop up. I would use putty but it is hard to find in local shops here. Sometimes, just the weight of the hook is sufficient. It depends on how buoyant the pop up is. The hook pattern does not matter too much but I suspect an offset point might help. I used to think that the gap of the hook should be half the width of the boilie to avoid snagging the line hanging down the side of the boilie but in practise an even a bigger gape never snags. I have done a lot of sucking and blowing with that “artificial carp mouth” to test this. The line is then tied to whatever weight you are using. I tend to use 70 grams inline but the type is not critical. The length of line between the boilie and weight needs to be the distance above the bottom you want your pop up to fish. If I am really honest I rarely use pop ups because most of my fishing is over clean ground and I seem to get more takes on a bottom bait. However, I use a very similar rig which is modified to work on the bottom. I rarely miss a take because it is self-hooking. If you have a 20 mm boilie and the bend of the hook is 20mm below this, the hook describes a huge 40mm arc inside the carp’s mouth. It is virtually impossible for it not to find a hook hold. As I say in the video, the sudden movement the carp feels inside its mouth causes it to bolt immediately. There are no tentative bites, they are all one toners. I hope someone finds this useful. In reply to Snowmanstevo, the whole thing has been filmed using the slow motion feature on my 'phone. The hook whips round quite quickly in real time giving the carp no chance to blow it out.

Sorted

I think I have changed it. Please could someone confirm the link is working. If not I may need to post the link again.

Thanks for that buzzbomb I'll go back and change it. Sorry for cock up. Not heard of a clumer but I do put a disk on my leads - but that is differentr technique.

No this thread is not what you think. There has been quite a bit of interest shown in using the multi rig for pop ups. I thought some of you might be interested in my alternative method for pop ups which I have been using for some years now with good success. I just made a short clip on YouTube using the slow motion feature on my ‘phone. It is not very professional but I think it is clear enough to show how it works. The pop up is fished straight off the lead for a reason. When the carp sucks the bait, it whips the hook round inside its mouth very aggressively. Not only does it find a hold straight away but the sudden movement in its mouth causes the fish to bolt straight away coming instantly against the bolt lead and driving the hook home. I am not aware of ever being “done” using this rig but if it does happen the rig is self-setting. Another advantage is that when playing the fish, the weight is close to the carp and not swinging about. This makes the hook hold feel more sure and seems to avoid getting the lead snagged if fishing close to trees etc. I have described this online before but I am not aware of anyone using it. I had lots of negative comments of what people thought would happen such as “likely to foul hook” etc but after several years I have found no problems using it. https://youtu.be/D6DgfsC2W8o

Yes that was the idea that prompted it. They threatened to close vehicle access to a lake I fish and the alternative would have been a very long walk with arthritic knees. It is still in use 10 years later but the Golf has long gone.