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Everything posted by poleaxe21

  1. I don't go fishing to lose carp, so it's barbed for me always. I do genuinely belive that barbless cause more damage, however, the potential for damage with a barbed hook is greater if used incorrectly. Most damage is not caused during the fight at all, but during hook removal. With a barbed hook, if you are struggling to remove the hook, simply push it all the way through (depending on where the carp has been hooked of course!) and snip the end including the barb off with a pliers. There is nothing worse than someone just ripping the hook from the carp's mouth, taking half the mouth with it.
  2. Ok i get the point about setting your net up before getting your rigs wet, but mat aswell? My mat does not leave the barrow until it is needed. Any fish caught are secured in the net in the edge while i ready the mat, water, camera, scales ect. I amuses me when i see guys with these great big carp cradle carp doesn't touch the ground thingys set up in their swim when they are still yet to catch anything. If you need to move then surely thats just another item of kit that needs to be packed away! Leave em on the barrow guys n gals!
  3. I'll reiterate some of the points already mentioned. Fish a bowstring tight line with your rod pointing directly at your rig. I would suggest single sticks for this, plus they are more secure. Ensure you are using butt rests that grip the rod tight. The solar adjustable back rests are great for this. Also i would recommend snag ears as on aggressive takes the rod has a tendency to bounce in the rests. In addition to this i like to fish a heavy lead on a lead clip but with no tail rubber (I PVA tape the arm of the clip for the cast). This means that 99% of the time the lead is ejected on the take. Not only does this leave less on the mainline to get snagged but i also find that with a heavy lead and a tight line it improves indication dramatically. Speaking of which i like to use heavy springer style indicators (I use solar quiverlocs). As stated earlier don't wait for a full blooded run, hit single beeps (although i find most takes result in severe drop backs when fishing like this anyway). Don't strike the rod, simply lift it. As soon as the rod is in your hands start walking slowly backwards. This does more to steer the fish away from snags then any amount of stationary pressure on the rod would. A word on your end tackle. Use common sense, and set up to suit the snags your are fishing towards. I know a lot on this forum have a real problem with leadcore, but i've always said that a landed fish is the only way to ensure it's safety. If you need the abrasion resistance of leadcore then use it. Better this than losing fish to cut offs. I've said in the past that i believe the only way to fish safely with leadcore, or any leader, is to fish it rotary style. I still believe this to be true, but in the case of snag fishing, the benefits in indication of a leadclip setup is worth the risk. Carp safety is more a case of balancing risk than anything. Ensure your end tackle is up to the job. Fishing locked up tight to snags puts severe strain on every bit of your tackle from your hook, through your hooklink and mainline, all the way to your rods and reels. This is no place for scaling down. Strong hooks (I would never go smaller than a 6, and for the majority of my snag fishing i'd recommend 4s), strong abrasion resistant hooklinks, and tow rope mainline. Personally i'd suggest suffix synergy as a mainline, but there are plenty of others that do the job very well (GT80, Pro Clear, Big Game ect ect ect). Hope this helps
  4. For waters where i can use a barrow easily: Quiver Bedchair Unhooking Mat Barrow Bag Sleeping Bag Bucket For waters where more mobility is needed or barrows are not practical: Quiver Army Bergan Bucket That covers all my sleeping kit, fishing kit, unhooking mat, clothes, food, water ECT ECT ECT.
  5. I tend to use 75% Vitalin to 25% Pellet. Combined with boiling water (I use the water i cooked my hemp in) it really stiffens the mix nicely. The great thing about vitalin is it will still hold even with large amounts of "extra" baits in the mix. Casters and 10 millers are my favourite but you really can use anything. Be aware though that vitalin has a high food content all of it's own...
  6. DD Baits only produce readymades so yes they are. Chapmans are one of Prologic's (Svendsen Sport's) largest UK customers, so this, coupled with the fact that Svendsen cannot sell their bait in the UK for love nor money and you see why the massive discounts. A large quantity of DD Baits were probably sold to Chapmans as a sweetener to another deal. In fact i'd put money on who made the sale....... In all my time with the company i have to confess that i never once used their bait. However I do know that some of the European guys catch plenty of fish on it so i'm sure it works perfectly well. Is it of the same quality as a frozen bait from one of the more recognised and respected bait companies? Without a doubt NO. But it has it's place.
  7. So tight you could play a tune on it. At least for anything over 50 or 60 yards. nice heavy lead (minimum of 4oz) on a lead clip with no tail rubber - pva tape for the cast). And a nice heavy springer style indicator. Job done...
  8. Just got back from a 3 night match with the Royal Engineers Carp Section on Waterbeach lake in Cambridgeshire. The session proved a tough one with everyone struggling to put fish on the bank. The temperature had dropped considerably over the past week in Cambs, so for the first night i decided to fish solid bags filled with low oil pellets and a 14mm Discharge Black Magic Pop Up as hookbait. I'd seen one fish show a couple of rod lengths from the island in front of me at about 75yrds so both rods were fished to this area. Well by morning i'd been thoroughly beaten up by the bream with 7 falling to the solid bags, but no carp, and no more shows. Time to drop the pellet! I changed things around and fished again Black Magic pop ups on my reverse combi rigs in conjunction with a 4 bait stringer of Squid and Ylang Ylang. This time i kept one rig in the area where i'd seen the show the previous evening and fish the other in slightly deeper water at about 50 yrds. To cut a long story short, even after keeping my eyes glued to the water until the daft hours of the morning I didnt see another single show, and by morning I was scratching my head and looking at a distinctly dry unhooking mat. Everyone had approached the lake much the same at this point with everyone fishing either single hookbaits or bags. Although a few fish had been out by this point to those tactics they had all come from the deeper water off the road bank, a good 500 yrds from where i was stuck (This was technically a match, so a move was not an option). With this in mind, and with nothing left to lose i decided to give them a bit of bait. If they were to pass through my swim during the last night i wanted something that would stop them in their tracks. I once again got the marker float out and found a spot ever so slightly deeper than the last, but in nice soft silt as opposed to the previous spot's crunchy gravel. I then set about spombing around 8kg of hemp, 3kgs of pellet, and 1kg of boilie, all with lashings of Black Magic Dip and fished a snowman rig on both rods over the top made up of the Squid and Ylang Ylang bottom baits and the Black Magic Pop ups trimmed down. Coupled with 3 bait stringers they quickly sailed out to the spot. The gamble paid off and at 0130 the left hand rod rattled off. I can't ever remember praying for a fish not to fall off quite so much. The lead had discharged on the pick up so the fish rose quickly to the surface and didn't put up too much of a scrap. Within a minute or two i had a chunky little 14lb common in the folds of the net. One of the smaller fish that inhabit the lake but nevertheless the pressure was finally off, and the blank avoided. I was a happy man. Sleep was hard to come by after that, but as is the way with these things i'd finally dropped off again at around 0300 when the same rod rattled off again. It was obvious from the start that this fish was of a better stamp. Despite the lead once again ejecting on the take this fish stayed deep and was content to plough back and forth at long range. It took me almost 15 minutes until i saw the leader knot break the surface. The fish was really scrapping. At this point i really thought i was attached to one of the lakes upper 30s. Alas it wasn't to be, but at 26lb 10oz i was more than happy when i slipped the net around it. No more carp fell to my rods after that. But i awoke the next morning more than happy with my lot. It transpired that my partner in the next swim had also manged 3 20s during the night which actually meant that we'd won the match (albeit a friendly...). Happy days! And here's the pics:
  9. Hi there guys and gals. I'm looking for some information on the Kennet and Avon Canal. I've been doing plenty of legwork myself over the last couple of months and have a few areas i've been baiting but any information to help me fill in the blanks would be much appriciated. The idea behind fishing the canal is for overnighters between work. So ideally i'm looking at the stretches around Pewsey, Marlborough, Wooten Rivers, Brimslade ect. Although i am willing to look a bit further afield towards Newbury and Reading if needs be. Now judging by how little information i've come accross online i'm guessing that the few who do know anything about the carp on the canal like to keep things very close to their chest. So PMs if necessary please. I am only interested in the canal as a winter water as come march I'll be heading back to the gravel pits. Also, while i'm on the subject, there are a few small lakes just past the second canal bridge west of Wooten Rivers. They are just over the railway line. Does anybody know anything about these? Any help would be much appriciated. Cheers
  10. Despite the nature of the water, or maybe due to it, to me this is the greatest loss to Carp Fishing in recent times. Sad indeed.
  11. Another nail in the coffin of true British Carp Fishing. Incredibly sad!
  12. Needle knot for mainline connection. Leave long tag end in mainline (shorter tag end will be stiffer and can trap components). Only ever use in a rotary set up. No need for a top bead (fix ring desired length from lead with PVA tape for the cast). No leader should ever be used with a leadclip, inline, or running set-up. I.E. no leader should ever be used whereby the hooklink is attached directly to the leader via a knot. In the event of a breakage (of mainline or leader) the hooklink should be able to pass off completly. Also, prior to tying a leadcore leader it should be pre-stretched. This lowers the diameter of the leadcore making in less obtrusive, and easier for the hooklink to pass over it. Also, once leader is stretched, hold it underwater and sqeeze between your fingers to remove any air from within the fibres. I've seen leadcore condemed all too often. Carp safety is a matter of opinion and of fishing style. Snag fishing with leadcore if often condemed. I often use leadcore leaders when snag fishing. The train of thought being a landed fish is safer than a lost one. I've fished a lot of waters with highly abrasive snags and leadcore results in more fish on the bank. Simples. I also set up the lead with either a "choppa droppa" style set up, whereby the lead is lost on the take, or a "rotten bottom" wherbey the lead is lost if snagged (which depends on the amount of weed / snags in the vicinity of the swim). This means there is less for the rig to snag up on, and generally means the carp surfaces early on in the fight, thus lessening the chances of loss to snagging / weed. I will use leadcore with a drop off inline set-up when PVA bag (solid) fishing, but then i only use approx 6" of leadcore, for quick attachement purposes. The common argument that leadcore can kink and thus mean components cannot pass over it is rediculous. Any amount of tension on said kinked leadcore would instantly straighten it back out again. I don't buy into this! Leadcore is far from being the be all and end all. But it does have it place. As does everything.
  13. A stiffer rod will tell you a lot more regarding the make-up of the lake bed (Do you have a Spod Rod you could use?), but yeah the rod you mentioned will do for now certainly. The only downside i can see really is that you will be limited to fishing spots you can reach with your marker set up rather than what you are capable of reaching with your fishing rods (i.e. in a perfect world you should be able to achive a similar distance with your marker set up as you can with a baited rig - see where i'm coming from?). Obviously if the lake is relatively small, and all that is required is short to medium range work then there is no issue. It'll do mate. Chris
  14. I caught the fish of a lifetime in Cheshire, 22lb of fantastic mirror carp, directly descended from the original stocking from The Surrey Trout Farm. To some people their fish of a lifetime is not necessarily their biggest.. Couldn't have said it better myself. Carp fishing would be better off without the likes of Pavyotts, and without the people who wish to fish there. Somebody has said above that it suits their needs due to age. It is true that many people do have to compromise as they get older. However, there are lakes up and down the country which can accomodate people with these issues, and DO NOT contain foreign / diseased abominations. We, as a sport, do NOT need it.
  15. poleaxe21


    Love the stuff mate. Still use it for hinged stiff links and combi rigs....
  16. I have encountered problems with undertow on the Birch mate. Never anything serious, but enough to make slack lining difficult. Little tip....tow on the Birch has more to do with the state of the tide than the wind
  17. Best advice i could give you is to stop and think whenever you read / and or watch any fishing media. Realise when it's simply a marketing tool and to put money in peoples pockets not fish on the bank. Stick to one bait company and don't feel the need to change all the time. Listen to everyone who gives you advice, but take it all with a pinch of salt. With a bit of common sense it's not too hard to pick out the BS. Carp fishing is simple. Find the carp, cast a rig to them that will A. be presenatble on the bottom, and B. is attached to a hookbait they will want to eat. Job done. If you put the majority of your effort into finding the fish and learning their habits, and not worry too much about rigs, tarty set ups, and the latest baits and gadgets, you wont go far wrong.
  18. So can anyone explain to me the advantage in using say for example a 60 size BR on a small water over using a Big Pit Reel.....? Can't think of one myself.... I have multiple set ups. The rods i use most often are 3.25lb T.C with 50mm ringing. These are normally coupled with SS3000s. However, to cover other situations i also own smaller baitrunners, Infinity X's, Shimmy Longcasts, and Blue Tournies.... Coupled with these i have rods ranging from 1.5lb T.C right up to 3.5lb T.C. Let me make one thing very clear. Fishing is my life! It takes priority over almost everything else! To this end i have ammassed huge amounts of quality gear over the years. Coupled with the fact that i'm a hoarder and a complete tart well....you get the picture. The fact of the matter is most people cannot justify the expense of such a wide range of gear. A rod of 3lb T.C coupled with a sensible "Big Pit" (I.E. not an Infinity or LC) will be just right for most situations. It will cope very well with very small waters, and still afford the user the ability to reach 100yrds+ on larger waters if needed. There is no reason at all why a rod of approx 3lb T.C should ever cause hookpulls on a regular basis. Well balanced terminal tackle and a bit of common sense will compensate for the stiffness in the rod (i use a set of Free Spirit MRS Spod Rods for Method feeder fishing and i have noticed no increase in hookpulls as a result). Having said all this................ Your right most people sole reason for the heavy rods and big reels is the tart factor!
  19. And Bicarb....blackens it nicely. You should still be looking for the majority of the seeds to split. Soak the hempseed in lake water for approx 24hrs, then tranfer the whole thing to a pan (in the water it's soaked in) and bring to the boil. Simmer for about 20-25 mins then tranfer to a bucket with lid. Job done.
  20. Imports will be the end of carp like this.... Nuff said!
  21. Water like Pavyotts make a mockery of our sport, and the people who fish here are the guilty parties. All waters like Pavyotts achieve is to give ammunition to the antis, and breeds a generation of carp anglers who have no respect for their environment, their quarry, or the history of their chosen pastime. Bad times.... I don't blame the fishery owners one bit. They are running a buisness, and successfully so... I blame the hoards or "instant carpers" motivated only by fish size and glory. Mark my words, this trend will prove the downfall of angling eventually.
  22. When hooklinks are concerned it's often not so much an issue of breaking strain, but an issue of stiff / supple. Different brand of fluorocarbon have different properties (I.E. Rig Maroles is ultra stiff whereas ESP's Ghost is comparitively soft....) It'll be a case of having a play around with different varieties and eventually you'll find your favourite. Go with any reputable brand and you won't go far wrong. If you've never used it before then i would say go for a 15lb breaking strain or even a 12lb bs to start with. Tying rigs with a stiff material can prove difficult at first so you may encounter problems with an 18, 20, or 25lb....
  23. poleaxe21

    360 rig

    The 360 rig can be made safe by tying a very short (1") piece of stiff flurocarbon to the hook. Thread this through the eye of a mini ring swivel, then thread on a 3 or 4mm tungsten bead. Tie a knot in the end of the fluorocarbon and blob with a lighter. Basically you will end up with the same mechanics as a 360rig, but there will be a 1" section of fluorocarbon between the hook and swivel to minimise the chances of mouth damage. It's very difficult to explain well without a diagram to be honest, but i'm sure some of you get my just...
  24. With regards to leaders only ever being fished rotary style...I can accpet that a hooklink tied directly to a leader can be made safe, but only when said hooklink is of a lower breaking strain than both the leader and mainline. Even then, great care would need to be taken to ensure that you mainline has not suffered any damage during playing a fish or the retrieve. Any damage, however subtle could instantly make your mainline considerably weaker than your hooklink regardless of initial breaking strain. This would once again render the entire setup very unsafe. Due to this, i would always suggest a rotary setup (this includes fluro leaders, casting leaders, snag leaders ECT ECT ECT)
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