salokcinnodrog

To me that is what the hair rig is for, to allow the bait to be sucked in, it has reset itself. I try to make my hairs so that the hair won't tangle on being moved. A braided hooklink can be fished tight (although why would you intentionally pull back to straighten it?), slack, coiled or loose. If the bait is moved, as it is sucked in, the hooklink being braided, it can turn round on the bait being taken in.

Blue Oyster Cult, Don't Fear the Reaper is a classic, you want the full version. As for The Eagles, another excellent choice Sir. Driving Music:

Not really for me, simple reason being I have seem silver fish move the rig, the hook and bait away from the contents of the bag. If I have got the whole feeding situation and baited area right the boilie is picked up as 'oops I missed one'. I normally fish a whole bag as over a baited area, not usually on its own.

This Thread is a Guide to the Knotless Knot and Basic Rigs Here is the Knotless Knot as used for many basic Rigs, also a set up that can be used to create a pop-up rig. It is as simple as attaching a hook with a knotless knot, and in many or even most cases, simple is best. There are sometimes when a rig needs to be slightly upgraded and by adding a Line Aligner then you can create a more aggresive hooking angle These simple rigs can be adapted for Braids, Nylon, fluorocarbons and Coated Braids, and used for bottom baits or pop-up rigs.

You don't have to use an inline lead, honest I use run rings, with solid bags, and no leaders, although braid or coated braid hooklinks do help. Lead clips with solid bags can discharge the lead, but run rings don't. Hookbait in bottom corner, put freebies in bag, then hooklink, more free pellets, then lead. Lick and twist around mainline or tubing if you use it.

If you mould them around a corkball for pop-ups don't boil them for any more than 45 seconds. The base mix will expand and then leave a gap between corkball and boilie skin. You can air dry them for as long as you want, but don't over cook. In the ratios Hutch has recommended try Ground Trout pellet Baileys Number One Semolina Soya Flour Finely Ground Pigeon Conditioner I guarantee it works as that is the bait a mate of mine was using for a few years very successfully.

I confess to being a lazy git, so I nearly always leave waterproofing until I am on the bank. Check the weather, dry day and a can or two of Fabsil, bivvy up and spray.

Same here, I got loads from work, although as I flogged a load on ebay I am now down to my last carrier bag full I think.

Tin hat time... Please don't get me started on Korda Kra... Seriously for years I used black tulip beads, black run rings, although now I'm using khaki coloured run rings. My leads are a flecked green, or brown, or grey, my hooklink swivels are black, although I must insist that some tackle manufacturer makes me a khaki green and brown flecked swivel... You think how many carp were caught on John Roberts rig beads, stiff tubing and uncoated leads, with a length of black Dacron and a bright shiny Drennan Super Specialist hook.

Something different: A coated braid hooklink, Snakebite, line aligned hook, with sliding rig ring on shank stopped from sliding round the bend by rubber stop. I can then attach hair myself, to the length I want/need, usually with a snowman bait on it, a wooden ball topped with a meshed pop-up.

Combi-rig; Amnesia to Kryston Merlin with line aligner, and I have used what looks like ArmaKord as the hair to avoid crayfish cutting it off. I was extending the Merlin, but found the loops were getting frayed as Crays played with the hookbaits.

Buy a different brand? I noticed in tests that Korda hooks lost their points very easily, they are so soft. The water you are fishing can even blunt the point, not running it over gravel, the acidity or alkalinity of the water itself, it seems to be silty lakes more I think. On Nazeing a mate and I used to 'swap' rigs, our tackle boxes were open season, and I grabbed a rig tied with a Korda hook from his rig bin when I had showing fish in my swim, yet failed to hook one. I was sure I had had pickups, I changed back to the Gardner Mugga's I was using at the time and within minutes had a decent fish on the bank. He had also been blanking, yet when I gave or tied on one of my rigs on his rods he converted the same indications into fish on the bank. I am against the grain on sharpening hooks, I think if it's not sharp enough out the packet then buy a make that is. I often check and change the rig after each fish, but check the rig every cast anyway. If I think the point is gone I change it. That is what the ball of my thumb is for, checking the hook point!

Somebody knows his Douglas Adams...

And if I do delete accidentally I do try to pm the person concerned with what happened Is it possible to put it through a solution of washing up liquid and water? I honestly do not know if that will work though. I always make sure I get floating or sinking dependant on requirements, and buy from a good source.

There were 2 identical threads, I deleted one, didn't notice any posts on the other, so may have deleted them in error.

I think that is the correct way to do it. I'm right handed, and have always used fixed spools with the handles on the left. For multipliers I have the handle on the right, and on top of the rod for sea, spinning or pike fishing

By the way, in my pic, I had only just set up after casting out. If I'm not in any hurry, it's rods out, coffee on, then sort bivvy out. Everything in the pic does actually fit under the brolly.

I use Grande slam scales, had them a few years now. Around £20, but ebay might find them cheaper: http://www.swanleytackle.co.uk/scales

I stopped piercing pop-ups as I found some would take on water faster. I attach mine by putting them in a loop, then tying it to the ring or hair loop.

Delkim sensitivity https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=share&v=IYjNBwC1jS0

I can't see any problem using them. Just because Leeda aren't a big carp name doesn't stop them working. Should be a perfect test curve as well with maximum 2oz lead.

You can, but it does behave very differently. I've put up a pic of a version I play with to try to avoid Crays wrecking the braided (either coated or uncoated) end section. I call it the JC rig, lol The bead is a tungsten bead, and the slight curve almost gives a claw effect. The hook sits more upright if you have the loop smaller. It did work, but I couldn't stop crayfish killing real pop-ups, so haven't used it for a while

If you want a supple hooklink, then use standard Mono. One of my favourite mono hooklinks is Preston Reflo mono, which I use in 10and a bit lbs for both floater hooklinks and bottom mono hooklinks, or a length of the same as my current reel line P-line Floroclear for bottom baits. I think both are fluorocarbon coated polymers. In fact I have found on a local lake with crayfish, that the mono hooklinks are less affected than a braid that gets twisted and fluffed to bits. I have found straight fluorocarbons very stiff, preferring the ones above, or even 15lb Amnesia in clear for hooklinks.

I have removed a post from this thread, please do not swear in any shape or form As it happens I have TFG Oval brolly

I have bought stuff direct from TFG direct with no problems, and some tackle shops also sell their stuff. My mate who has one has no problems setting his up, think it takes about 5 minutes with the full bivvy sides from memory