salokcinnodrog

I used to be very wary of any fluoro snapping on me, it did have a tendency to give way a lot, so I avoided it for years. I think a lot of the issues are with knots giving way, because the fluoro works best with a particular knot, or the knot has not been properly lubricated and wetted down. It is only recently I got back onto it, and have had no problems while using a Uni knot.

My worry is always they are going to take it off the market, or a new uprated version is coming out. I used to love Shimano Catana line, brilliant casting, and very tough.

I usually end up pulling an overhand loop through itself with a baiting needle. Not usually too worried about getting a really small loop unless I want the bait stop almost tied into the loop, which I sometimes do if small fish and Ronnie and Reggie are being a pain.

Its a running lead with tubing😉 Been using that set up for years

The old stuff is a white and green mix, and the white does get 'grubby'. I can see most hooklinks in the margins as well, soft braid doesn't worry me really, caught fish on it, so happy with it.

I tied a few rigs up with it for displays when I was in the tackle shop. I can't say I was too impressed to be honest, so I stuck with what I have from Kryston; Merlin, Snakeskin, Snakebite, Mantis. Merlin is my goto braided hooklink, either as part of a combi link, or on its own, and I have caught on it in weed, over gravel or silt. I will say as I bought so many packs of Kryston a few years ago, if it has changed since Kryston was sold into a tackle wholesale group, and rebought, I have not used any newer versions. Pictured are rigs tied with it, one on a plain KK and one on combi-rig. If you use it on a combi-rig, I would recommend checking and changing hooklink after every fish. As it pulls tight on Amnesia, the Amnesia knot can be pulled down. Not changing has cost me fish, but I have not lost a fish with it giving way during the first fish hooked on it.

A couple of minutes before I put it on the reel. Mono takes on a bit of water, so can expand if left to soak. If you put it on the reel after soaking as it dries it can tighten and shrink away from the spool lip, leaving the spool underfilled.

Sky has her moments! Like when a muntjac comes past. She is out after it like a shot. She ran out of the bivvy so fast she managed to bend a storm pole, as the long lead was attached to my bedchair, which also got moved towards the bivvy door. Siberian Huskies are a breed that aren't usually able to be let off the lead at all. They get something into their head and just run, their recall is also terrible. They only follow or behave to a dominant owner, so although people may think I am overly strict with her, she respects that. I have managed to get her to behave when she is off lead in the swim, the camou screen now serves another purpose, although she has managed to go over it, but a very sharp shout made her realise not to go anywhere. Huskies as well as being able to jump a 6feet fence, can dig very quickly. I have seen her dig a hole to her back legs in soft soil in 2minutes. While most people think of huskies being sledge dogs, they are also hunting dogs for the Siberian Chuchki people. The heterochromia, one blue and one brown eye is a husky trait as well. They can have either blue or brown eyes, unlike most breeds who have brown eyes, but they can have one of each. Even on a walk at home I don't let her off the lead unless in a fenced enclosure!

Years ago I used to work with fibreglass laminates, cloth and resin. No matter how carefully you did things exactly the same, you could not line up the cloths on the mould the same.

They look very close to the curved and bent hook patterns that have been banned for serious mouth damage. A few fisheries have started totally banning any curved shank hooks totally as they have found mouth damage being caused. To be honest, silicon or shrink tubing, either line aligned or with a 'kicker' or kink for the straight talking. Just by extending the shank length can make ejection more difficult, with a line aligner...

What I mean is while they may fit together its not a perfect match. Like buying a pair of socks, losing one, so buying a single sock of the same pattern to replace the one you lost. The colour is not likely to be exactly the same, so while they are now a pair, they are not matching. A rod is built on a mandrel, carbon cloth and resin rolled around a centre piece of metal, then dried. It is then sawn in half. You break a section of a rod you will not get another section that is a perfect fit, exactly as the original one was. The different sawn sections will not fit together as perfectly as the original twp did. You may not notice the action, but I can guarantee, I have tried mixing and matching sections of my Armalites in the past, and rods I have built from Pacific Bay blanks. There is most definitely a difference. On my Armalites, there was a distinct looseness and wobble in the joint when I put an incorrect tip to a rod butt, even though I had just rebuilt them!

Welcome to Carp.com I'm with B.C. in that my biggest gripe with Greys is new ranges every few years. I also don't believe that if a rod snaps that there is another top section for it. A rod is built from carbon cloth and resin on a mandrel, it is then basically sawn in half and either an overfit joint or spigot is made to connect the section together again. If you have picked up a £100 rod or two for £70 each then you have gotten yourself a decent discount.

Bet you've heard me recommend one P-line Floroclear is a co-polymer line with a fluorocarbon coating, and comes in clear or mist green. It is not the best casting line, slightly stiff. I find knots need to be regularly checked, and the mainline to hooklink swivel knot cut and retied frequently. Big advantage is it is almost invisible underwater, when I first (didn't) saw it years ago at 5 Lakes, a hooklink was in a tank of water with a gravel bed. The line was invisible, but I could see the hook and swivel.

No problem in sorting it out I had a play on Google: https://www.live4fishing.com/horton-lake/ click 'contact info'

I fished a few years ago on an open water in this country under a 50inch Nu-brolli for a few rain free days. One day it was so hot I ended up dehydrated with serious heat stroke. On summer trips I regularly find it unbearable in the bivvy compared to being outside, often trying to find shade in the trees.

That is usually when I crack-off, when I've not been checking regularly enough

Welcome to Carp.com. You will get loads of different opinions on what line, and other considerations you need to think about. Do you need a casting line, or a line suitable for dealing with snags, gravel and weed? A low visibility line in the water? All will give different answers. General purpose lines I would recommend two of the cheaper lines, both of which have been around for a while, and are in my opinion better than many or even most more expensive lines. The two lines are Daiwa Sensor in brown, or Gardner Pro Light or Dark blend.

I have stuck with Mono and a 40/ 50lb leader for years, the mono is Gardner Pro in 15lb, and I rarely have crack-offs, although an occasional one happens when I mistime a cast, either with that or my fishing rods. Years ago I did use braid, and I had that wear through both the tip and butt rings on the rod. I also had a tendency to crack-off more frequently! I recently heard a lake banned braid on spod and Spomb rods as they discovered a large number of cracked-off spods around the lake, and retrieved a few. Sadly I can't recall who it was as it was a shared post on my Faceache feed. It's possible that because there is no stretch (or minimal) crack-offs occur more often as the spod/Spomb hits the clip hard on the cast, or on a mistimed cast and the angler snaps the bail arm over.

I googled it, http://www.linbrookcarpfishery.co.uk thats the one I founded

At the price you can get it for, take the no brainer. Definitely worth a punt at that price Seems to tick the boxes better than some more expensive brollies I can think of.

Must admit if fishing to snags I do point straight at the snag, but with a very tight line, and hit every bleep, so the fish doesn't make it. You have to be right on the rods, no excuses, and singles are best for that. It is very easy to play fish around slack lines, as pretty much the line drops straight down from the rod tip, so all playing is done past the line, and the untouched line never comes into play. Current has meant I have to be fishing tight lines the past few years, but the distance involved from rod to end tackle means I can play a fish around other lines. With three rods on bars it is probably the middle rod that is hardest to play and land a fish on! Even then, daytimes you can gauge the line as you play the fish and keep it below or above the other lines. Not so easy at night though!

Best advice is point your rods at your lead, or as close as possible to straight. I nearly always use 3 rods on my pod now, so tend to have a slight fan or splay from left to right. One is usually on bait, one just off, and one as a rover or cast long. If I fish 2 rods, again as straight as possible on goalpost buzzer bars. If you do need to fish in opposite directions on separate features then individual sticks is better. On one lake I fish, its possible to have my buzzer bars with one rod on the near margin, and one to the far margin.