salokcinnodrog

No, but from the pic it looks pretty self-explanatory. Hook Knotless knotted on, rig ring on tag and "hair" tag end back through the eye of the hook. Got a feeling from looking at that pic I set it up as a Snowman, with a bottom bait on the hook end and then a tied on pop-up above it.

I might be mistaken or really stupid, But I'm certain that in the Rigs Sticky at the top of the Rig Tying section has a pic of a D-rig tied with Coated Braid. Which means it wasn't that far to search! Not that I'm 100% certain or anything, its just I remember taking that Rig off my rods after a session and putting the pics on the forum, exactly as I took it off the rod, complete with the lead wire wrapped around the Braid Coated Braid D-rig Easy way to tie your bait on: Using Mono, Hair Braid or Dental Floss for the hair create a loop, then tie a Uni Knot in the hair length keeping the loop for your bait and pull tight. Attach your bait into the Loop that you have created and then attach to the ring. Sorry its easier than the overhand or water knot of Selebs. There is absolutely no way that the bait can pull free from the loop unless you loosen it.

Changed, I knew about it! Unfortunately idiots and insults got some words added. I don't think that it makes any difference whether you use a Running Lead or Semi-Fixed/Bolt set-up. What matters is that you use the right Lead set-up for the lake you are fishing, or the situation you are in. I prefer to use Running Leads for all my Fishing (thats me personally), but at maximum distance when I need the last yard, and the bottom is silty or with a layer of leaf mould and there are no snags, I will use a Pop-up on a Helicopter set-up. The same Lead set-up works for bottom baits if the bottom is clear and gravel. Add weed into the equation and I will switch to either Pendant (either running or semi-fixed) lead, that again will work with either a Bottom Bait or pop-up. When I'm playing fish through weed at closer range then I'll use an Inline Lead if I want a Semi-Fixed set-up, again either type of bait. I actually prefer Running Leads for pop-ups where possible. The pop-up on my rigs, which I sit and play with carefully to get best hook penetration (see I know how to avoid the censor), I want to be as difficult to blow out, but I want to know when it has been played with by the carp. One or 2 bleeps on a Running lead and you know you have to take notice. That same one or 2 bleeps on a Semi-Fixed rig could be the Carp sussing you out. At the end of the day you have to take into account the Carp's behaviour and what is currently working. Incidentally its very rare I use pop-ups at all with a Food Source Bait. Why give the Carp the clue that it may be different from the free baits? Maybe perfectly Critically Balanced, but very rarely popped up.

Fish with what you are comfortable with. Even better if you can fish with what you catch fish on in UK, you are already confident on it (in theory). Take, and/or buy over there, particles and also boilies. Also have a word with the Lake Owners and try to get an honest answer on what the Carp are usually caught on. Some owners sell boilies on site (maybe a bit expensive though), but if you can find out who makes them you can get some before you go. If you want a large amount of pellets/particles andor boilies look up the Bait and Feed co. Type that in as a search and I've posted a web address in the past somewhere

Since I dropped the Leadcore I've been putting Mouse Droppings of putty up the line as well, and it does pin it down, and more importantly, if you fish with a Running Lead it can be safely used as a Shocker Backstop just above the tubing. In the event of a snap-off the putty DOES slide off the line (not always the tubing). Regarding your comment about the fish feeling line, I'm not going to argue about diameters or strains, but the fact that in nature very little is tight. We fish with Tight lines to the Lead, if a carp swims through it, it feels totally wrong to them. Multistrand, again, it may split and separate, but doesn't weed behave that way, from the root up, each small section splits off, never tight. We aren't pulling the fibres tight on Multistrand, we want it to separate rather than being tight. The only problem regarding Multistrand is its tendency to tangle. The more people who have this problem and so refuse to use it, I'm happy, Sorry, 'Cos I know how to avoid it Is that with your ideas? or would you care to expand on anything you think I'm wrong Nick

I take your point on this. Flourocarbon is a bit lively. I haven't had any problems with it so far but not been using it for long. I am interested in your approach to running rigs. Not really ever persevered with them enough for carp (only pike). Apart from greater bite indication and safety do you feel this gives you any other advantages. I'd be interested to get your thoughts on how you feel this rig worksand how you set it up. Is resistance an issue like for pike? Do you need heavier leads to make it work properly? How do the fish not simply reject before the hook is set? Does it work at longer range? etc etc Couple of threads that may interest: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26640 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27479

Welcome to the Forum Quite a post to start with, and one that is pretty much with my way of thinking. Like you I also go Sea Fishing as well, and only use a Leader for casting then. If i'm out for Bass at close range then I dispense with them, unless the water is snaggy, in which case I use a shorter "rubbing" leader My only disagreement is on use of Fluorocarbon Mainlines and my worry about their lack of Abrasion resistance and dislike of twist, any excess causing a fracture and line breakage. (thats my worry, not a personal attack). You have seen the result of the experiments I have done when using leadcore, all started after a couple of incidents at Suffolk water Park, and previous posts on other threads. I have a running lead with slack line method that works effectively, even in winter, when takes are at a premium, and also is safe near snags. Tangles can definitely be minimised or even avoided by the use of Pva, sensible rigs and the right lead set-ups for the fishing being done. It seems that, in many cases, that Magazines and Big Name Anglers and Tackle Manufacturers are advocating Leaders as a necessity to disguise/pin down the line near the lead. It really worries me that this practice is possibly putting fish at Greater risk because of components getting trapped on the leaders and unable to travel over the knot. I know we all check it happens on the bank in the event, but if a knot is jammed with weed or even mud, then this may not happen if a fish is trailing it in the water. What many forget, even members on here, is that at much over 40metres then the Tight Line will not be running through mid water. It naturally bows and droops down to the Lakebed from the rod tip in a gentle curve (dependant on how tight line you are able to get). It may stay higher in the water if using braid as you are able to stay tighter with braid (braid advocatees note), but even this will eventually run along the bottom of the lake (if a sinking braid). Going through the above again, and its relevant to Semi-Fixed Leads as well as Tight Lines, and again a point I have made before. The best way to keep lines away from midwater is to use Slack Lines with Running Leads. Now fish that same Lead set-up with a Tight Line. Because the line is tight you have created a SAFE Semi-Fixed Lead set-up. With a Large Run Ring in any event of a crack off with a Leader then unless the knot to your leader gets totally jammed with a big ball of weed then the Run Ring will pass over the knot. To make it even safer then TIE the lead onto the run ring with a length of 3or4lb line. To cast it with a Big Whack, then just put a tie over PVA throgh the Lead and onto the run ring

Rushes Lake If you go to the Sticky about Fisheries in France Mrs_Rusheslake and her husband (apologies I can't remember his name) have a post on there about their fishery. If you look or search for posts on Rushes Lake I'm sure you won't hear a bad word about the venue. Nick

Calm down! I highlighted the fact so that you and others don't turn it into a Death Rig. Preventing the beads from sliding would/could create that possibility. I questioned the need for a Silt set-up, nothing you have said above gives me the idea that its still 100% required. The Silt set-up, bomb on the end of the line was designed for where the hooklinkwas required to be held above the Silt, where the Lead, and some of the Line would be dragged into the silty bottom. From your post it seems that with an inch of leaf mould and weed a basic Pop-up on a pendant set-up would be all that is required. Indeed I also said it could or may improve your bite indication. Also have read your next post and quoted it, those "amazingly talented anglers", Would that be from magazines? Sorry, In which case take it with a pinch of salt. The Helicopter/Silt rig variations are not the be all and end all of fishing. Again Helicopter and Silt set-ups are the Current FASHION. In many cases anglers jump to them because they can't be bothered to think about other Safer and in many cases better options. A Running lead with a Slack line does not need Leadcore, and you can get away with using the Putty or Flying Backlead to pin the Line down.

First question, do you have to use a SILT Rig, (Its proper name)? For weed/silt that thin it may not prove an advantage. It also means that you have to have a Tight Line running through the swim to your end Tackle. Yes the Tubing can slip up the Line at times if the fish goes through a snag and it is forced free. Putty can/may trap the Beads on the line, jamming the beads in place, which may make the rig a Death Rig. Never ever attach a swivel above the tubing for the same reason. The helicopter set-ups also may weaken the line as you are playing the fish at an angle against the line. Another point is that Bomb-on the-end of the line set-ups can give minimal indications. Far better in many cases to use a Standard Pendant (Lead clip/running lead) set-up, and a pop-up rig at the end. Indeed I would avoid totally Bomb on the end of the line set-ups if there are any snags. The Fish can run too far before you get any indication at the rod end. If you look at the Sticky at the top of the section with Rigs, Lead set-ups etc, the Weedy Water Rig and Lead set-up can actually be used in Silty Waters as well.

If you have a look through the Sticky at the top of the French section on Fisheries in France, then it may be worth sticking the name in the search facility to see if any threads come up giving details of holidays and trips taken. I can save you some effort though as if you type in Rushes Lake you will come up with a large list of positives on threads from members who have been, unfortunately not me though

PLEASE check which section of the forum you post in. Thread moved from UK Rig tying into Bait and Bait making. http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=28584&highlight=quest+baits A quick search will find you at least 3 threads including the one above

The problem with Korda Hybrid are now solved. IMO korda hybrid is the best coated braid! Sure on that? Sorry but since it has been replaced my mate had the problems, it still goes "ping" for no apparent reason at times, lack of abrasion resistance on the slightest snag. I've seen him steam his knots, watch him tie up fresh rigs on the bank. When it comes to rigs he is more particular than me , it has to be absolutely perfect. I have watched him measuring and cutting his hooklink materials so that they are the exact length, then measuring his loop knots and his hair loop. Like I said reason enough for me to avoid it

Flipping heck! Goblin has kind of said it all. The Blood knot is one of the most dangerous and risky knots to tie with most braids, monos and fluorocarbons. It has a tendency to break at a low percentage of the line strength, as low as 50% or even less when under sudden strain. It is a strangulation knot and pulls in on itself causing sudden failure. For the fishes sake please learn to tie a safer knot, the palomar is 100% efficient, but I don't know how good it is with Hybrid. Learn to tie the Uni/Grinner or Palomar which are suitable for most braids etc.

Nothing recent on the forum, but this may help a bit: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=29583

It doesn't matter what braid you use as long as you are comfortable with it! Old News, but Korda had a problem with a load of Hybrid being recalled and they had to replace many purchased spools. http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=23882 My Mate used the stuff and lost a couple of fish due to knots snapping and it had awful Abrasion Resistance. I keep Kryston Mantis and Mantis Gold, Snakebite and Snakeskin in the Tackle Box. They work for me so I see no need to change.

Running Leads need to be fished with a Slack line! If you fish a tight line you are making a Running set-up Semi-fixed lead, because of the the tight line. A small flying back lead will work, although my choice is for putty just above the tubing. I think that Backleads totally defeat indication with either Running or Fixed Leads. A shockleader is a length of line used to withstand the force of casting that may (or could) break your mainline. You need to use enough shockleader to give you your casting drop, and still have 4/5 turns on the reel. I don't get on with Tapered ones , so I prefer to use Greased Weasel in GREY or Amnesia in Black. The recommendation with using a shockleader is that you use 10lbs of leader strength for every ounce of lead. So a 2oz lead you need 20lb leader, if you go up to 3oz you use a 30lb Leader. If you decide to use a Braided Shockleader though you will need to double the shockleader strength due to the lack of stretch If you type in Shockleaders as a search there is a pic of the knot that I have found to work best.[/b][/i]

None of the above! You could actually have added this question to the other thread on leaders If I use a Shockleader for maximum distance casting I use either Amnesia or Drennan Greased Weasel. If I'm not using any then I try to fish as Slack a Line as possible, have tubing pinned down (if I'm using any), or get the Mainline down to the bottom. Just by fishing Running Leads with a Slack Line and possibly a Flying Back lead you can disguise the last of the line near the lead Would the fish not be able to feel the back lead when they pick up the bait. I am seriously considering a running lead setup with slack lines. What is your detection like on slack lines? Pretty Instant! It has to be with a Running Lead though! The Back Lead (or putty) just above the tubing creates minimal resistance, but does pull the line down to the Lakebed. After casting I get the line tight and put the indicators on to pull out any bow etc. I then pull line off the reel until the indicator hangs slack with no tension on it at all. The line just drops from the rod tip. As soon as I get a pick-up and the fish moves, the line pulls tight and I get Buzzer Indication. Use the same method fishing close to snags and the Carp don't often make it there before I have struck. It also means I can fish with my rods locked up with no give from a Baitrunner or Clutch. As soon as a fish pulls the line tight to the rod because there is no give (with the rod pointing directly at the End Tackle), the Carp tends to kite away from the snag on a tight line. I do use Heavy Leads for fishing with a Running Lead of 3oz or over, any less and I think in most cases the Lead can be moved along the lakebed. I also have a set-up, where the lead is tied on with 4lb Line if I do fish near the snags. In the event of a Carp making it to the snag, the lead pulls off and in most cases the fish will play free with no problems.

Does tubing prevent cut offs when fish take you into pads? That is when I use leadcore and over gravel bars too. Must admit that I occasionally have fish make it into Pads, but have not suffered many cut-offs, even with no tubing. When I do have that problem I up the length of tubing to about 1600mm (4feet) which seems to cure most of the problems. I don't think that it is actually the pads that cause the cut-off, but the snails, mussels etc that live on the stems and roots. Even though the lily roots can be as thick as your arm! Like Jez I prefer to use even pressure on the fish to get them out of the pads. Large Carp are actually easier to get out than smaller Carp and Tench, they often fight they're way free. The Smaller fish just go in and sulk, which causes more problems. Taverham was very heavily covered with Pads as was Earith, and I didn't use Leadcore or Tubing on them. At Earith Leadcore was banned, (as were all leaders), so I had to fish either with Tubing or nothing covering the Mainline. Its over the Gravel (flint) that because I was using Leadcore that I had a cut-off. The Leadcore was keeping the line down in the fight as a fish ran alongside the bar away from me, causing the line to chafe and I got a cut-off.

None of the above! You could actually have added this question to the other thread on leaders If I use a Shockleader for maximum distance casting I use either Amnesia or Drennan Greased Weasel. If I'm not using any then I try to fish as Slack a Line as possible, have tubing pinned down (if I'm using any), or get the Mainline down to the bottom. Just by fishing Running Leads with a Slack Line and possibly a Flying Back lead you can disguise the last of the line near the lead

I'm not using Leadcore at the moment. The results of last weeks playing in the margins totally put me off. I've tried Helicopter and Running Lead set-ups and no matter what, that kink in the Leadcore is what prevents beads and Run Rings with Lead pulling off it. The tension provided by the Leadcore if it does crack-off is enough to hold the hook in the fishes mouth, even with barbless! Therefore the only way the Carp has to get the hook out of its mouth is to get tethered and then hope it can break the hook free. Result after last weeks playing I think that Leadcore in its forms at the moment are not safe in Carp fishing

No Mate. If the Leadcore kinks the lead can get trapped in that kink. I normally use 3 oz leads myself, but I was playing with 5oz leads and Leadcore in the margins this week, just to simulate the kink if it landed badly. The lead can get totally trapped. Also even if the lead gets free, the Leadcore is heavy enough to hold the hook in the fishes mouth until it actually can snag it up.

My advice, is NOT to use Leadcore. I was using it regularly, and with a supposedly safe set-up. I had an accident on the bank and created a kink in the leadcore. This kink caused all the beads to jam up preventing them and the Lead from releasing. Result One Death Rig. NOT GOOD FOR THE CARP. Another incident at Suffolk Water Park. A Safezone Leadcore set-up that smashed up my marker BRAID, and cut throgh it. I eventually retrieved it, with 30metres of line attached as well as a rig and Lead. No way could the lead be released. Final Example, again at Suffolk Water Park. I had a Carp run me alongside a FLINT Bar, causing a cut off above the leadcore. Until that Leadcore snags, that fish is towing the stuff around unless it can blow the hook out. You don't necessarily need a Leader, in fact if you get the right Tubing and the Right Lead set-up then you can disguise and conceal most of it. I'll give you a clue, ditch Bolt Rigs and Semi-Fixed Leads

I've got 2 rig bins full and a rig wallet with another 10 or so in. Guess that makes 30 rigs I have tied up at the moment. As I kill a rig at the end of a session I tie a new one. A few D-rigs for Pop-ups/Snowman presentations, the most are just knotless knotted or line aligned. Vert few Stiff rigs, I think just 2. I do have a fair number of Combi rigs tied up for 1 particular water where I do need to find the right presentation. I don't play around with my rigs much, so although I do have a few different lengths and hair lengths tied most are pretty much the same!

On the Reservoir the Solar Green tubing was and Merlin blended in best. Also the Atomic Leads with the textured finished looked exactly like Gravel. Taverham, a plain uncoated well used lead and Supasilk. It may look brand new and white from new, but after a few minutes in the lake takes on the colour of the bottom Not that I ever swum down to check my Bait presentation or anything, but the Ressie results are definitley in the threads I mentioned