keeno86 Posted April 24, 2017 Report Posted April 24, 2017 I still haven't tried this rig, from what ive seen on youtube/dvd you are able to tell if you have been done by a carp because the loop slides tight up the shank of hook to indicate this, but surely it wouldnt be fishing right after this has happened, if it was then surely there would be no need for the d/loop section going down the shank. While i get its nice to know the fish have visited your spot, id rather have a rig that resets after i have been done? Now ive seen the use of hook bead i may give it a try though. The above is more a question... Quote
phil dalts Posted April 24, 2017 Report Posted April 24, 2017 15 minutes ago, keeno86 said: I still haven't tried this rig, from what ive seen on youtube/dvd you are able to tell if you have been done by a carp because the loop slides tight up the shank of hook to indicate this, but surely it wouldnt be fishing right after this has happened, if it was then surely there would be no need for the d/loop section going down the shank. While i get its nice to know the fish have visited your spot, id rather have a rig that resets after i have been done? Now ive seen the use of hook bead i may give it a try though. The above is more a question... I see your point, i worry about that too. The only way it would slide down is if a fish was hooked and the bobbin pulled tight. I just re cast if i have doubts. As for bottom bait i use this keeno86, Uroy and B.C. 3 Quote
phil dalts Posted April 24, 2017 Report Posted April 24, 2017 57 minutes ago, Big Common said: Small piece of shrink tube or .5mm tubing slid through the hook eye, will help prevent the rig pulling tight on a heavy chuck. I just use rig foam to hold things together on the cast. I think it depends on what rig materials you use and how easy they are to slide....... The whole physics of the rig dictates it wont slide unless pressure is put on hook point. So casting is no problem Its-grim-up-north 1 Quote
Nutcracker Posted April 28, 2017 Report Posted April 28, 2017 This is my hinged stiff rig that im fishing using an inline setup freshly tied. Quote
phil dalts Posted April 30, 2017 Report Posted April 30, 2017 On 28/04/2017 at 12:54, DEANO30 said: This is my hinged stiff rig that im fishing using an inline setup freshly tied. Like to see a curve in end section, bit straight for me B.C., Nutcracker, yonny and 1 other 4 Quote
pooter Posted May 11, 2017 Report Posted May 11, 2017 I've not tried this rig, what are the advantages over a blowback rig? Quote
Nutcracker Posted May 11, 2017 Report Posted May 11, 2017 7 minutes ago, pooter said: I've not tried this rig, what are the advantages over a blowback rig? I wouldnt say advantages is the right word ... every rig has its time and place to be used on any given day one will out fish the other and vice versa ... best bit of advice is find a rig you have confidence in and stick with it ... the main reason i use the hinged stiff rig is most of the places i fish are old silty lakes and i can use that rig for 90% of my fishing. pooter 1 Quote
pooter Posted May 11, 2017 Report Posted May 11, 2017 Perhaps if I ask what are the different mechanics and role of the multi overy a blowback. Not in the sense that one is intrinsically better than the other. Quote
cloud9 Posted May 11, 2017 Report Posted May 11, 2017 I'm no expert but i think is the way the hook sits with the bait just above it , sort of like a chod D loop set up . dave Nutcracker 1 Quote
pooter Posted May 11, 2017 Report Posted May 11, 2017 So it's basically an easy to tie/change hook D rig? Quote
salokcinnodrog Posted May 12, 2017 Report Posted May 12, 2017 12 hours ago, Big Common said: For me, the advantages of the multi rig are, speed of tying, being able to change hooks in an instant, and also, I think the two strands exiting the eye give this part a flat profile (two strands together), which I believe helps the hook turn quicker and stay in the prone position , instead of being able to roll on a single strand of material. I also think the blow back properties of the multi rig are lessened due to there being two strands of materials going through a rig ring or bait screw. My own variation is to have the whole thing pulled tight, with the rig ring or bait screw mounted on the hook shank, plus hook bead.... This way there are no worries about movement of D loop on the cast, you still get a nice flat profile of 2 strands exiting the hook eye and you will also get a smoother blow back effect. Slightly more fiddly to loosen off to change a hook, but still doable. Especially if you have a fresh rig ready, you can take a few minutes to sort the old one after you've re-cast. Being able to change a hook in record time has no real benefits to me, as I don't fish runs waters or carp matches. Nicely put, and I am the same, I have no need of quick change of rigs. I have a rig bin or two full of ready tied bottom or snowman bait rigs, and a rig wallet with around 10 ready tied pop-up rigs. Cutting the mainline just above the hooklink swivel means I am getting rid of fragged line, (check it regularly anyway) using a run ring and buffer bead means I can slide them above the cut off section before cutting it with no hassle. A very short Multi-rig section can be a right pain with the loop, and I think high long way up pop-ups can be a bite reducer in themselves at times, above the feeding fish, or even making them a bit wary and leave a most obvious hookbait. I know, I know, they will take them sometimes, but not every time. I want my hookbait at the same level! For pop-ups I do like a D-rig, the run ring on d loop if using a mono, fluorocarbon is very free sliding, (braid I think creates a bit of friction) more so I think than a multi rig, and I think the bait movement on that D causes extra problems. Don't get me wrong, the Multi-rig definitely has its place, but is no better or worse than many others. It is however a saver of money, binning hooks as opposed to a whole rig. It may also cost fish if you don't check the hooklink material itself though. B.C. 1 Quote
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