hutch

I wouldn't say it has to be in that position before it goes in but it needs at least the ability to flip into that position quickly, so with a D Rig as the bait is mounted on the ring as soon as you pick the bait up the hook will hang down, in the case of a rig that uses a kicker as soon as the bait is picked up the job of the kicker is to flip the hook. As with most things in this game 2 steps back 3 steps forward

Like I said I can't tell you weather your right or wrong , I can only tell what I found from using stiff D rigs last year which was the rig performed better with bait close to the hook, with the hook laid on the bottom with a stiff section you need some to put the hook in that prime position point down, IMO the hook will get pulled in flat as is as the stiff material does not turn unless something flips it, you need to tie 1 up and attach a bait then just try picking the bait up from various angles and watch what the hook does when you move the bait, remember that the suck and blow feeding part happens very quick so the hook need to react in a way that suits this.

Rig master I am not but will offer my thoughts on this one. First off looking at the crank i can maybe see where beanz problems came from with them, I would hazard a guess that the hook lacks movement in the mouth and gets its hold via a very nasty grab and twist movement so i would go with a different hook pattern like you suggest. I presume like Nick suggested you are going to whip a soft hair material on for the hair For me a stiff section and long hair are very inefficient as IMO it restricts the movement of the hook in the mouth, for me stiff sections work better with the bait closer to the hook either D rigged or via a hook ring swivel on the shaft held by a bead (not sure well this would work with a snowman untested but works fine with a wafter or pop up). This is what i am currently playing around with In this example the hook bead is set to high (only realised after taken the pic ) and is set for a pop up, but you can use it with a wafter by sliding the bead closer to the eye, on the bottom it sit with eye slightly cocked by the buoyant bait leaving the hook point heavy so no matter which direction the bait is picked up from the hook will point down into the hooking position and the little bit of exposed braid should give it enough to grab hold (in theory ). The hook is attach to the eye with a grinner with the coating still on so it kind of extends the shank, also the coating is left on for the section under the shrink tube to help it hold its shape. The above was designed to give you a couple of things to think about rather than this is the way you should go. Now for your rig you were going to attach a separate supple hair would it not make sense to tie the hook on with a conventional knot rather no knotting it to the shank and then whipping over the top again, I have found this makes the section round the eye very bulky.

Not carpy unless it is pooping the bait all over the mat

Whilst we have a thread open about Baitworks its nice to see Mark Bryant (he owns Baitworks) back on his feet after his near death accident

Have a read of the link i posted The 2 baits are different MR is designed for year round use as where Atlantic Heat is designed for use in the warmer months.

Used by Simon Scott so must be a decent bait. If your interested he ran some tank tests on Baitworks products results look pretty good. Link enclosed http://www.completefisher.com/Simon%20Scott%20-%20Tank%20Tests.pdf

Think Nick might be well equipped to offer info on this

Hook pattern depends on rig to be fair, for example D Rigs, Stiff Hinge etc.. i would use an out turned eye (personal preference is a Arma Point SR) Combi Rigs, Blow back style .. I would use a wide gape (personal preference is Arma Point SSBP)

That sounds like the hook is moving around whilst you are playing the fish (this is a guess of course).

Just as a side note on this topic if anyone uses the mag alinger rig a trimmed down fox zig alinger can also make a very nice line alinger

In the words of a famous kids program "Here's one Nick prepared earlier"

I have seen it done with a rubber grub

Again not massively different to today's kicker and same theory tubing to extend the shank with angle at the top, the key difference with what i class as a real line alinger was instead of the hooklink material exiting straight out of the tubing you pierced a hole near the top where the hooklink material would exit.

That man shaped the early years of my angling attended a talk by him blow my mind in those days (early 90's)

To me yes This one is down to people personal thoughts on the subject some think that barbed hooks have less chance of moving once the fish is hooked, as where barbless due to lack of barb have more chance of slipping and then rehooking or tearing the mouth of the fish. No hard evidence either way, some folks on here might have run into this item before.

Found this on Luke Moffatt's website for Graviers regarding hooks http://www.lukemoffatt.com/carp/carp_restrictions.shtml

Going back to the original title of the thread I know people on here have had good experiences with the Krank hooks but for me the curve is to aggressive and they can cause mouth damage from the movement they create in the mouth (Struggling to find good evidence of this though). So for me the 2 hooks are completely different.

Depends on the rig you are using to present the pop up's, for example multi rig/hinge stiff rig would use a chod style hook as where my current presentation using something similar to what Nick describes with a ring on the shank i use a wide gape style hook. Different patterns are suited to different presentations

Im another one that uses quick links, I use the fox kwik change ones but instead of using a full anti tangle sleeve I trim enough off to cover the attachment section and a bit more but leave the end like the eye of a swivel so you get full movement for the rig from the attaching loop.

Might be worth harnessing the power of social media Adam Penning and Tom Maker run tutorials on there so a quick post to one of there social media outlets may through you a bone

Welcome to the forum Lee On the fox edges 3 there is a section shot here http://www.carplantis.com/en/ dont know if it is any used to you.

I use Fox Rigidity in 25lbs for the stiff section of my HSR (there the same thing anyway)