garysj01

Phil im using the esp curve shank and i am thinking of moving over the the mugga's, they look like they have a slightly wider gape, whats your opinion

The hole is tapered slightly to improve this problem, it does turn slightly but on the hole its as good as i can get it, and its made even easier when its wet.

Chillfactor your right i do use a counter sunk drill bit to smooth the edges off

Thats what i try to do

In all honesty i probably do over think situations but thats what gives me confidence, which to be honest is my denominating factor. I am confident in the lead set up i use just as you are with yours. Everybody has there own little tweaks that gives them confidence and i commend anglers who do sit down and think and test their presentations and are not just persuaded by the press just because it catches for someone else. Id like to think i may be helping someone somewhere, even if they just use an idea or even if i can just get somebody thinking, thats enough for me. Like i said before there is not a 100% rig out there and i think its important to show various idea's on here. On a lighter note you look like a russian spy in your reflection in photo 2

Hi gents Firstly i am just using the lead as a pivot point, and i found on testing with an inline lead the heavier the better for me. Inline leads as you know have a hole drilled right through the centre, which in these leads is approximately 35 to 40 mm long, which causes the lead to lift slightly when Mr carp is fiddling with the hookbait, more so with lighter leads. Having a heavier lead as a pivot point goes in some way to stop the lead lifting so easily and promotes line movement instead. I wanted a presentation with just a lead, thats it, you would get better indication with a swivel lead but for me, i don,t like seeing swivels, clips, beads and so on. By drilling out the lead i was able to hide these components inside the lead. On watching carp at close quarters over the years i have become more and more paranoid of what they are actually seeing that makes them spook. Put my arrangement next to a lead clip with sleeve, clip, rubber sleeve and lead and you will see my one is more inconspicous, just a lead. When i am stalking i use exactly the same set up only with a lighter lead, but only because i can seeing what the fish are doing. If i were casting any major distance then yes i would use a swivel lead, and bead. As for setting the hook i agree a razor sharp hook will penetrate the flesh and the bolt rig or semi fixed lead arrangements help firstly making the fish panic and help set the hook in some cases, but i think more often than not the fish are using the lead to its advantage and getting rid of the hook. As for a 100% rig, well there's no such thing, as you say Kev thank god, it keeps us all on our toes and continously learning. Just my views, im sure a lot won't agree but hey Thanks for your points gents

I can put a picture on here for you if you like i have it some where

Hi all I have been doing a lot of test's with running lead set ups for a while now to try and find the least resistant set up i can. I like to try and keep things as simple as i can, keeping all components to a bare minimum. I think running set ups give you the best and quickest indication possible, the only problem is, is they generally do not set the hook for you, which is fine as i am usually on the rods with in a split second anyway. I tested using tubing, but because the tubing is stiffer by nature, the tubing would often move the lead from side to side and still not show any indication at the rod end, unless the fish pulls directly away from the lead. This lead me to just using the mainline straight through. The lead does need to be fairly heavy in weight (3oz to 4oz) for the running rig to work properly, this is the reason i set about testing. The best short to medium range running lead set up i can come up with, is this. Its very simple in construction, just a 3.5oz inline flat pear, a quick link and a rubber tail to fit over the quick link. I have taken out the plastic insert to the lead and drilled out the larger hole at the bottom of the lead to take the quick link and tail rubber. Once in water the quick link and tail rubber move with out any friction at all and on testing at 25, 35 and 45 yards i only have to move the hooklink at most and inch or so before i get an indication at the rod end. Sure i could of used an inline with a stop bead and swivel to gain the low friction i needed but i like to keep my rigs as inconspicous as possible. This is what it looks like ready for a cast. Thanks for looking

About 7-8 inches I think, although I don't actually measure them. Just an idea, Why don't you make the hooklink twice as long and tie a loop at the opposite end to the hook. Thread the loop through the eye of your swivel, and pull the loop down towards the hook, so now the hooklink is doubled up, push the hook through the loop and pull down an inch or so,tie a piece of pva round both bits of hooklink and tie another pice of pva by the swivel. When the pva dissolve's the loop is now free to travel up the hooklink until it hits the swivel, the hooklink might just be enough to make the fish panic and bolt giving you the best of both a running rig as well as a bolt rig. Just an idea i used many years ago,

How long fella?

I tell you what just explain your rig down to the finest detail

What hooklink material?

Could be a number of reason's but there's no harm in trying a running set up on one rod to see

Always fancied fly fishing for perch with a bloodworm pattern or as rex hunt calls them Red Fin

Yeah casting was a bit tricky at first especially in tight area's with tree's behind you but satifying all the same when you get the fly to quietly roll on the surface Tried twice for carp and caught, and for pike (pike are good fun)

Have you tried for carp on the fly fella?

Here's a rig i used to use a few years ago, it emulated a running rig as well as a semi fixed bolt rig. The hooklink was 10 inches long, tied in the normal knotless knot style with a loop at the end. Which was then pulled through a uni link swivel, and the loop was pulled over the hook. I used to pull the loop end near to the hook and then tie on two small bits of pva tape or string, shortening the hooklink by half. The idea was the pva would melt in the water leaving the hooklink to travel up its own length on a take (emulating a running rig) and then jolt in the hook when the hooklink was straightened out. The lead was usually a semi fixed heavy inline lead, great for pva bag work. It used to work a treat but now i much prefer the early indication of a full blown running rig set up, plus im using pva sticks now.

Funny you should mention the kamasan b175's i was only thinking what they were called last night, correct me if im wrong but weren't they based on a salmon hook,

Sorry all I mean do you think the carp is getting pricked as the bait goes in or is the carp get pricked when the bait is being rejected

Hi all How many of us think we are getting takes as the rig is being sucked in or being blown back out?

Did you ever use the black amnesia?

It was really for a pop up, i wanted to push the D higher on the hook, the tubing looks excessive because its all tied to a size ten hook,( its all i have on me at the moment ) i used to use Drennan Boilie hooks size 6, and as a bottom i used to use it as a snowman rig.

You got me thinking of how i used to tie my amnesia rigs, and here they are, the top one was the one i used first then it developed into the one underneath over time. Great rigs, i do wonder why i stopped using them?

I used to use amnesia to tie all of my D rigs, great stuff and memory free

My only use for leadcore now is to use the lead inner and wrap it around the hooklink for a pop up weight, then just heat some green shrink tube over the top, you'll have to experiment a little and count the turns until you find enough works, but you can twist it back over the original twisting, i will put up a couple of pictures for you if you like