nicksingleton

This season I have been using the carp r us offset nailors and had some good results on them, also the centurian 2000's for snag fishing.

Many congratulations on your fishing trip, looks like you really had a good time, with some superb photo's and write up. Back to reality again now i'm afraid

For me rig mechanics are something I ponder on regularly as it is like solving a puzzle, if you know WHY something is effective then you can adjust that component to suit. For example the flip over rate of a hook is made more effective the longer the hook or tube extending the hook is, and this can be used to cover certain feeding situations where the carp is hardly moving, i.e over a tight bed of particles as an example. Also on several lakes I fish, I have seen fish near vertical when feeding and by understanding rig mechanics it is possible to increase your catch rate. Then again I used to work on oil rigs for 12yrs and have a very mechanical mind also New carp club called the "mechanics" anyone interested

Good point there Alan, I have often wondered myself whether some of my hook pulls have been due to "lead bounce", I am aware that some of my fish have been only slightly hooked, but I am sure not all of them And I have noticed more occasions when I have been using a heavy running lead, co-incidence, not in my opinion. But interested to hear other's thought's and experiences on this ?

Run Ring with lead might help

My rig length does vary on the baiting situation, i.e if i am fishing pva bag's or over a large bed of particles i will use a short hooklenght 3-6" long,because I have created a situation where the carp is more likely to move a short distance to the next mouthfull.But if I am baiting over a larger area with a scattering of bait's I will use a longer hooklength, i.e more of a confidence rig, as in these situation's baits can be more individually checked out, and the fish are more likely to pick up the bait and move off a distance in search of its next meal. The lake bed also has an influence on your hooklength, I.E very soft silt "may" require a longer hooklength so that your hookbait is not dragged into it too far. But try too make sure that the situation you are fishing in, or have created, is the parameters for your decision making This may be use to someone cheers

Kryston super stiff applied to the hooklink could be an option,as well as p.v.a tubing with the link passed through it.

Kryston silkworm reacts horribly with aggressive steam, dramatically reducing its strength,sometimes falling apart completely Always test your hooklinks strength after using shrink tubing, just to be on the safe side

If boilies are banned, just make a paste bait and dry it Flirting with the rule, i know, But could give you a good argument with the baliff As regards cat foods, you can allways mix a little with some bread for hookbaits

A good old fashioned running rig with a weak line between run ring and lead swivel could alter your results The advantage of inline bolt rigs is the more direct bolt effect it creates

U can use a helicopter rig for any bait pop/up or bottom it is mainly an indirect way of attaching a hooklink to reduce tangles on the cast

A successful version of having a bait below the hook "per say" was the Looney extension rig.The swimmer rig also being quite similar

the longshank allows the hook to flip on the very slightest of pressure without the need for tubing and the shank itself lends itself to some useful anti-eject properties, But the hook is much larger than what you are used to, weight wise and size. So give them a go, they have done well for me in the past, and i will continue using them when i feel the need to

Sometimes i have found using a week link between lead and it's swivel can work, i.e 2/3/4 lb line Giving you all the rig variations safe in the knowledge that a fish should be able to snap the week link should a snagging situation occur

How have you got on with your tank testing,find any startling revelations you may wish to share