neilscatchin

Knot diagram sticky at top of page and click on the link.

www.yateleyangling.co.uk/pages.phtml?CAT=4&ID=19&UID=20070127150138207.46.98.143 If in any doubt go to your local tackle shop who'll show you the right way if you still don't understand or buy pretied leadcore. Plenty of info on leadcore around the site,you can find this by using the search facility above this window.

Uni knot or palomar.

Unless you're fishing a really weedy water where you need to jetison the lead to be in direct contact with the fish,is there any real need for you to use lead clips.I know everyman and his dog uses them in the magazines but fishing in open water you'd be better off fishing a running lead which is far more sensitive if it is fished with a slack line.The clips are only meant to "lose" the lead on becoming snagged in thick weed or lily pads not in open water so I suggest you're using them wrong. May I suggest testing your rig before putting it into the water to see how much pressure is required to release the lead.This should be standard practise IMO and something I always do no matter what set up I'm using.

You ain't the only one whose had problems with this hooklink: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=23882 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=15933 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=11856 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=19048 I'm not a fan of any of Korda's gear but seeing as a lot of "names" use it then it's popular with anglers but I wouldn't touch it with a bargepole based on personal experience.

Nick,never had a problem with an ESP lead clip not discharging especially in the water I'm fishing at present which is choked with weed.I've taken 6 fish in 3 outings and the lead has discharged on every fish as it should,putting me in direct contact with the fish enabling the weed to only collect round the head of the fish if anywhere. Certain makes have experienced problems and I believe even the new Korda Hybrid ones need doctoring to remove a small lug which hampers discharge. If the lake wasn't weed choked I'd be on the running lead setup as I prefer this along with slack lining where possible,plenty of kits out there for it.

I still use coated braids for the majority of my fishing only changing to fluoro/mono perhaps during the winter when scaling down.To be homest although it's not the "in" thing I use the combi rig perhaps 95% of the time with about 10 cm of uncoated braid out of the end of the shrink tubing which I add to turn the hook and I've had 1 30 and 3 twenties in the last month alone. Coated braids I favour Sufix but Kryston/ESP are also popular. Amnesia is a brand on it's own whereas Fluorocarbon is a product so ESP's fluoro is called Ghost,Korda's is called IQ and Fox's is called Illusion.

Didn't look very hard : http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27331 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=25481

Hi mate,it pays to use the search facility,loads of info on past topics: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=28163 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26256 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22666

Absolutely agree,nearly all pretied leadcore comes with a splice at one end with a swivel at the other and if not both ends are spliced.If someone is asking a question such as this I presume(may be wrong) that they're buying a pretied leader and I can't really see them cutting the splice off to tie a needle knot. I,as you obviously do, check every rig to ensure safety before use and I'd never use a rig that was unsafe hence why I said about removing the insert.

Just take out the insert,I always get rid of the hard plastic ones and replace with a Korda(yes you did read that right) shockleader sleeve with an inline anyway and if spliced correctly it should come off with relative ease.I only tend to fish inlines generally at close range so removing the insert doesn't cause major issues.

I use PVA tape as I find it dissolves a tad quicker than compressed dissolving foam.

Spot on Neil, where this trend came from to place silicon to hold the hair right down on the bend of the hook is a mystery to me. All it does is stop any separation between hook and bait and as you say all that happens is the hook gets blown straight out with the bait. Sheep spring to mind you know what I mean easily led and all that. Personally I would start with at least 1/2in hair but I usually use at least an inch. This year due to the type of waters I fish I have only had 20 carp but Ive not had a hookpull or missed run yet. Nice to hear from you again,Jez Hope you're keeping well.

Near invisibility in water,stiffness,sinks better.

How big will this patch be? ive heard that if u tighten down of the lead you will feel a bang, then you know youve hit a clear bottom? cheers mate Every clear patch will be a different size! Some may be the size of dinner plate,another one may be the size of a snooker table.

To be honest it may just be me but using silicone down the shank greatly reduces the blow back effect on the rig and I'm convinced the boilie affects the direction of the hook in the mouth.When the Carp 'blows' the bait,the hook should drop into the carp's mouth and take purchase but if it's tight to the boilie vai tubing this won't happen and the hook'll follow the same trajectory as the boilie out of the carp's mouth.

Rice Krispies good to spod out on the surface As regards to sugary,think of all the sweeteners,taste enhancers that are used in bait like Talin I don't think a bit of sugar'll hurt.

Looks a bit like it's been reinvented as the "shot on the hook"rig in modern times. The idea is that the shot makes the hookpoint heavy and it drops the hook down onto the floor of the carp's mouth.

Once because the hook'll never be as sharp even when resharpened,I check mine on every cast to ensure the point hasn't blunted and religously change after every fish.Most rig mechanics rely on the hook taking purchase in the mouth but with a blunt point it'll vastly reduce the effectiveness of the rig and you'll suffer hookpulls. The make up of the bottom'll effect the sharpness especially gravel and believe it or not silt if left overnight for example.

http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=20072 All here.

My mate has just got back from there a fortnight ago.The lake is still owned by the same people and the house bait is made by an english firm but it's quite expensive apparently.He did well using CC Moore freezer baits and if you want any more in depth info Dave send me a pm and I'll let you have his MSN addy so you can have a chat.

Tony's right,the majority of anglers incooporate shrink tubing to help the hook turn and when tied with something like the knotless knot where it exits on the point side of the eye,it naturally flips the hook into position.

I had a exactly the same but with some barbed Big Ts,Tony.5 out of the 7 used had the hookpoint folded inwards after pulling out of fish.I returned these to Dave Ellyat at ESP and to be fair he said he was sending them to suppliers for inspection.To be fair he was more than helpfull and did send me a fair selection of hooks to compensate about 10 packs in all.Haven't had any problems with them since.For the record I wasn't using shrink tubing just a straight forward combilink.

Mantis out of the 2 as the other is Korda....

Agree Ozric,I'm not totally convinced with this either.Some people were even talking about the weight of the boilie pulling the hook down into the carps mouth with the hair positioned right round the bend.I prefer the bait to be well out of the way of the hook when it's blown out otherwise it can get in the way of the hook getting purchase in the carp's mouth