salokcinnodrog

Bait Making Base Mixes I've been trying to work out how to put down an idea of what ingredients do what, how they work and how there use affects the bait we use. The only way I can really come down to describe it I suppose is to give an idea of why we should feed Carp a good bait, then breakdown as best as I can the ingredients we could use in that bait. I will try to keep it as simple as possible, as the whole subject is one that can be really easy to get lost in. Unlike us, Carp feed by Nutritional Recognition. The theory behind this in Bait is that Carp take a food that provides all or most of the needs that they have at any time. Carp do not have the power of being able to think as we do. Humans feed by Hunger, and can choose to eat sensibly or not, Carp have to eat what is available, a choice of Natural Food or our bait. In theory the food that we should be providing for Carp contains Protein, Carbohydrates, Fats, Vitamins and Minerals in the correct proportions. Protein is used for Tissue Growth and repair, Fats and Carbohydrates are Energy Sources, and Vitamins and Minerals are used to "assist" and help the body develop and grow as it should. If you don't provide enough protein then the body cannot grow and develop. With not enough energy providing foods then there is a constant tiredness, not enough energy, but if you have too many energy providing foods then the risk of being overweight. Protein When it comes to Proteins, then there are various types of protein, and each protein is made up of a mix of Amino Acids. Carp have a basic requirement for 10 of the available Amino Acids, of the other 12 they can be synthesised from those present. Unfortunately 1 type of food does not provide all of the Essential Amino Acids, so we need to try to mix our Protein sources together, this can be a mix of Fishmeals, Meat Meals, Milk and Vegetable Proteins. However Protein is also unique in that as well as being used for Growth and repair it can also be used as an energy source. Fats Fats contain the elements Oxygen, Carbon and Hydrogen, and are used as a source of Energy, and also as an Insulator against the cold, being stored beneath the skin. Too much fat though and you become overweight, obese and at risk of Heart Disease. Fats come from different sources, Meats, Fish, and Vegetables. To put it simply, vegetable fats are normally the "lightest", (unsaturated), but because of this provide less energy than fats from Meats or Fish. Meat fats tend to be Saturated, giving rise to increased Cholesterol, which can lead to Health problems, so only a limited amount is required. Fish Fats are also Unsaturated, providing a source of Omega3. Carbohydrates I tend to think of Carbohydrates as "Instant" Energy sources, they are used faster than fats or proteins. Many Carbohydrates come from the various types of sugars which are found naturally, Fructose, Maltose, Sucrose etc. Vitamins and Minerals Vitamins and Minerals assist in the body working properly. Vitamins and minerals boost the immune system, support normal growth and development, and help cells and organs do their jobs. Bait Making Ingredients and Properties It is so easy to have an understanding of bait, and very easy to make a Good Bait that will continue to catch. As simple as going to the local Tackle Shop and picking up a bag of Boilie Mix, be that from Mainline, Nash, Nutrabaits, Tails up, but in doing that you may end up the same as the guy in the next door swim. If you fish the same as everyone else you will catch the same as everyone else. Yet just by having a knowledge of some of the reasons for why, or what is in a Base Mix, it can be possible to improve even a standard bagged mix. That little "tweak" can improve results immeasurably, and put you catching on your terms. While I break down the various ingredients I can only give a limited idea on each of them. There are many varieties of some ingredients, Full Fat, Defatted, Pre-digested, Low Temperature and even the Coarseness (mesh) of the product. The higher the number in mesh means the finer it has been ground. Just by changing a mesh from say 80mesh to 100mesh can change how a bait rolls totally. Proteins I've always believed in making a variety of protein sources in a bait. The more different type of protein sources, even just a variety of Fishmeals, then you cater for any shortages in Amino Acids that there may be. Fishmeals Fishmeals are in simple terms fish whole fish, fish bones or fish offal, that are processed, and dried to form a powder. There are various varieties available, by species or by type of processing. Just about any species of fish or shellfish can be used to produce Fishmeal. Most are in the region of 60-70% protein. In winter many fishmeals are supposed to lose their fish attraction and nutrition due to being hard to digest, but by making them only part of a bait a year round result can be achieved. In addition to that Carp do not require as much food in colder temperatures as they do in the warmer Summer time. This is a rough breakdown of probably the most commonly used Fishmeals in baits. White Fishmeal White fishmeal is actually normally coloured either a light brown or grey, and like a slightly heavy flour. Normally in the region of 60-70% protein, and an oil content of approximately 6%, although this can change dependant on what fish are used in its manufacture. It contains a high amount of lysine, one of the essential amino acids in addition to most of the other essential acids Provimi66 A high quality fishmeal, rich in amino acids, providing an excellent source of protein. The Protein content is close to 66% (hence its name ), and oil content of 8% LT94 A Norwegian Fish meal produced at low temperature, not meaning that it is suitable for low temperatures. This high quality meal is the genuine article where low temperature fishmeals are concerned. Produced from chilled raw fish, it is treated at low drying temperatures, maintaining more of the nutritional qualities and amino acids, making it far superior to most standard fishmeals. With an oil content of around 11% and a protein content of 72%+ (of which 94% is digestible). Standard Fishmeal A mix of Capelin, Herring and Blue whiting, this meal has a protein content of about 70% and a fat content of about 11%. Shrimp Meal A meal produced from either shrimp that is not suitable for Human consumption or culled shrimp. Normally either Sun dried or freeze dried and ground. It has been used in Trout and Salmon diets to actually improve Tissue pigment of the fish. If you use it in a bait then it is actually a buoyant meal, and can be used to make bait lighter and more buoyant. Too much and the bait will actually float, so it can be used in Hookbait to create Pop-ups. Salmon Meal Salmon meal normally comes from the various Alaskan Salmon species, and is approximately 70% protein 11% fat and provides avariety of amino acids. Sardine Meal Sardine meal is a heavier ingredient than many of the other fish meals, and has a protein content of approximately 68%, as well as slightly higher fat content. It may require an ingredient to "dry" it as it can roll awkwardly Meat Meals Meat and Bone Meal Meat and Bone meal is a product that contains approximately 50% protein and typically about 8-12% Fat. It has been used in the feed of various animals to improve the amino acid profile, but after the BSE problems is thought to have been responsible for the spread, so has been banned in many animal feeds. Beef Meal Beef in theory is the perfect protein source for humans as well as Carp, although Carp would struggle to utilise it as a whole product, but as a meal it can be used. The meal is rendered from the parts of cattle that are unsuitable for human consumption. Again used in Animal feeds to improve protein content. Liver powder Liver Powder has been used for many years in Carp baits, as an attractor, a rich source of proteins, vitamins and minerals, including iron. Liver Meal is a high protein specialty product manufactured from whole livers. These materials are processed under controlled time and temperature conditions and then dried to provide a fine meal product. The protein and fat content of this product provide for an exceptional source of energy and a real liver flavour. Liver Meal performs as an excellent ingredient in pet food formulas, as well as aquaculture feeds. Suggested usage levels of 1 to 3% will provide significant palatability increase Chicken meal A meal that is heavily used in the Pet food industry for its protein content, but it is not as high in proteins as some of the other meat meals available. Blood Meal Dried powdered meal again used in Animal feeds. A totally soluble meal high in proteins and lipids. Because of its solubility it is not suitable as the whole protein content, and is best mixed with other meals. Milk Proteins Milk Proteins can only be stored for a certain period of time before they start to go "off", so you don't want to bulk purchase if you aren't using a great deal of them. Calcium Caseinate Calcium Caseinate is a form of Casein manufactured from filtered milk, then treated with an alkaline salt to form powder. It is a fairly high in protein, approximately 89% and is a "heavy" ingredient. It is also a valuable source of Calcium. Sodium Caseinate Sodium Caseinate is the buoyant version of Casein, formed by using Sodium Hydroxide. Again high in protein, about 91% and containing 8 essential amino acids Casein The major protein in milk at about 90%. It is available in various meshes, so to get a consistent bait always use the same grade. Lactalbumin Lactalbumin is a milk protein obtained from the whey, again containing a mix of amino acids and high in protein. That is a basic breakdown of types of some of the Protein ingredients available for bait making. If you notice the Fishmeals and Meat meals also contain a quantity of fats, so theoretically you won't need to add any other fat sources. Birdfoods That is a fairly basic list of Birdfoods. Birdfoods are a useful ingredient in many Base Mixes, in addition to providing attraction they also have other useful properties in that some also bind the bait together, provide a mix of Vitamins and Minerals and are fairly high energy providers. Nectablend Nectablend is a mix of Egg yolk, biscuit, honey and other ingredients, mostly seeds. It is described as a rearing food for young birds, and a protein content of approximately 14%, fat content of 5% and many vitamins and minerals. CeDe CeDeis another egg food, containing egg yolk, hemp, biscuit and small seeds. It contains Carophyll, and is used as a Canary Rearer. Red Factor Red Factor is another Canary Priming Food, containing Soyabean, Oats, Maize, Oat Groats, Vegetable Oil, Wheat Gluten, Calcium Carbonate, Canthaxanthin, Dehydrated Red Chilli, Vitamins and Minerals. Its Nutritional Makeup is approximately Protein 21% Crude Fat 17% Crude Fibre 3% Salt 0.5% PTX PTX is an animal protein mix, with added honey and molasses. A protein content of approximately 32%. Robin Red Robin Red is a Haiths registered product. Almost every Bait supplier that sells it buys from Haiths! Spicy, BRIGHT Red and very attractive to Carp, although it has been fished out on some waters. Prosecto Insectivorous A blend of Dried Insects, honey, seeds and various oils. Red Band Pigeon Conditioner Probably more known as a Particle Mix, but can be ground down and used in Boilie Making. High in carbohydrate content, and is fortified with vitamins and minerals. All baits need ingredients to bind them, and probably the most basic is Semolina, although Wheat Gluten and Soya Flours can be used. Egg Albumen provides an amount of protein, but it can be used to reduce the boiling times of the mix, provides a tough outer skin on the bait and still keep the centre soft. There are other ingredients available either as a main ingredient or in addition to a basic Base mix as attractors or to replace any deficiencies. Whatever bait you come up with it will need a mix of Soluble products as well as "hard" ingredients to make it attractive and edible to the Carp. No matter how high the protein content of all the ingredients you use due to the binder in most cases this will drop as you mix the ingredients. It is really no use making a bait if it does not roll at all, and Carp can't really utilise a protein content of much above 50% to my thinking. YET!  When it comes to choosing a bait, choose a bait with some history of catching Carp. Spend some time selecting a bait to suit your needs, either by reading articles on the bait, looking through Bait Companies Brochures and catalogues or even getting on the phone to them.  When it comes to choosing a Bait then remember the difference in types, an Attractor Bait, Food Source Baits, and Hi-Attract/Overflavored Hi Viz baits.  Attractor baits are best used in limited quantities, maybe as few as 1 or 2 around the hookbait. They may have a limited life in terms of feeding and catching of as little as hours. They may attract Carp into the swim, then due to their limited Nutritional Value they may cease to work after a period of time. You then have the Hi-Attract Overflavoured and Hi-Viz Baits. These baits are designed usually to be hookbait only, to get the Carp to be inquisitive, to try it. Food Source baits are long term baits, they are balanced Food Source or Nutritional Baits. They become a Food Source that the Carp will actively search for to provide their Nutrition, this bait will provide Protein, Fats, Carbohydrates and Vitamins and Minerals. To enjoy the best results on them then Pre-bait with them, and put as much in as possible when you leave. It may even be worth with fishing with limited amount of bait in the swim at a time. The pre-baiting is to build up the Carps confidence in the Food. If you hook a Carp on the Bait first time you use it then it may stop eating it. Once you have chosen a Bait, then give it a fair trial. It may not catch immediately, but if it is a viable Food Source then it will, or is very likely to start to catch, if it is fished properly. Try to use a GOOD quality base mix with Natural Nutrition. These ingredients will provide Natural Attraction to the Bait. Only Use Fresh Bait, Dry mixes have a Shelf Life. The recommended life for a Fishmeal mix is 6months, even less if you have Milk Protein Ingredients. It is best to make up as much as possible with Fresh Ingredients, including eggs, then split it down to smaller quantities and freeze it. It is also best NOT to Refreeze after a session any leftover bait. This leftover bait can be put into the lake or river. It is your pre-baiting for the next trip. Any bait the Carp find that they don't get hooked over will only increase their confidence in the Bait as a Food Source. This will only work if the bait is a long term valid food source rather than just a high attract bait. Home Mod Area Offline Posts Bait Making Ingredi

Funnily enough one of the biggest fish in our syndicate came out on maggots last season at her heaviest ever weight, although she was also caught just after spawning twice on boilies. I had results over my collection of collected snails bloodworm, worms, molehill soil and particles with boilies.

I dive into Gladwells in Copdock, but I do know they have a store around Peterborough. Only problem I have found is go in one trip and they have what I want, next trip an item is out of stock. Its usually a supplier problem, everyone is suffering with it.

There are probably better bait companies around, although with various products being unavailable it's getting hard to find a decent bait company.

The problem is tackle brands need to sell tackle and convince you that you need the latest fashion. Rods are the current 'must have', from high test curves, 3.5lb on 10acre lakes, to shorter rods. Shorter rods have their place; overhanging trees, stalking but not on most waters. High test curve rods and rod actions are changing, but most high test curve rods tend to be fast action. The powerful tip may be a problem when playing fish close in, remember to be a little bit careful. The through action rods in lower test curves are often better for playing fish. That's my view, so everyone is likely to have different thoughts. Something else is that on day ticket waters, single days you may find that spodding bait in can kill your day. You could be far better fishing with stringers, or single baits.

You're welcome. Sometimes we don't see the simple answer, and I'm guilty of that myself!

Sadly the 'no dogs rule' rules me out.

I googled it, nothing viable comes up other than your question.

I use coated braid hooklinks in PVA bags. Hook through the bag in one corner, then hooklink along bottom of bag and up the side. Lead in the bag and lick and stick around either the line or tubing.

I'll give you the actual Solar page, but I'd suggest shopping around as there can be the occasional deal: https://www.solartackle.co.uk/products/hockey-sticks-adaptors/goalpost-converters That's the Solar buzzer bars with the goalpost adaptors. With the ground being so soft sticks work. Had to keep the tips up, still a lot of weed about.

Please take a moment of time to have a look and help save the water for fishing: 📸 Look at this post on Facebook https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid0KGJC8fyHKYAtFpq3ysuec5EWWe8AN9iLfB6xEz674tAeMbTFgDD3SWbazTziafEAl&id=100000347282223

I have the Solar P1 pod, and I have got longer banksticks in case I need to raise the front or back. I do also have goalpost adaptors so I can fish either pod or goalpost banksticks. It's solid, stable and locks down tightly.

I was watching a Monster Carp in Hungary re-run on ITV4 and laughed at 'pest control' Spooner catching tiny carp on massive baits and hooks, with long hairs and with their baiting. Years ago I saw an article with somebody catching Carp on a bare hook over hemp, and tried it myself The fish were feeding so heavily on the hemp that the hook was sucked in. Feeding loads of groundbait, hemp and tiny particles can be the cause of this happening as it was on Monster Carp. You can just as easily catch roach or rudd on this method, (and I have). The hookbait was not catching (or attracting) fish it was the groundbait background feed. To avoid the smaller fish, stop the groundbait and feed just boilies. Anymore thoughts?

Christmas for me was a couscous and bell pepper starter, Roast goose and the trimmings for main, then for me, Yule Log and Christmas pudding for dessert. I'm lucky, I only had to worry about cooking starters and the goose. Since Christmas though, I've been laid up with the bug. I've only been going out with the dog to give her a walk. I stick to porridge for breakfast, along with coffee, lunch is sandwiches, and then my dinners are often pasta based, but I do have beef or venison steak, potatoes and vegetables normally once a week. My big problem is obviously the hip and back which has cut out the cycling.

Glad you got it sorted. A company that admits it is at fault and sorts the problem is a company you remember

I read this with interest, although I am that horrible freak that eats what he wants, although that is mostly healthy, I do have a soft spot for packets of Jaffa Cakes or all 4 Chocolate Rice Crispies bars... When I played American football I was around 85kg, and spent time in the gym most days. I retired from playing sport back in 2009, the weekly aches that used to be gone by Monday in my early years lasted until Thursday... I promised myself I'd never go back into the gym to keep fit. Exercise would be walking or cycling. I'm now down to 72kg, and avoid the takeaways, and MaccyD's unless I am on a trip involving a motorway or dual carriageway stop. I frequently batch cook for myself, usually having 5 or 6 tubs of 'ready meals' in the freezer. I've stopped using the supermarket to buy vegetables and meat, going to my local greengrocer and butchers instead. The quality is much higher, and it works out as cheap, even cheaper.

I have frequently found that a problem with various brands. Or the other problem is that they get it right, then within a year or so release an updated or upgrade version that is not as good, or just out to fleece us (marketing sales ploy).

Reduce buckets! Please! Bird food bucket, groundbait bucket, dog food bucket, toilet bucket and PVA mix bucket. My passenger footwell has that many buckets in. I'm thinking the same about going back to just boilies, but the particle and groundbait tend to get the fish and birds keeping spots clear, although I could do without the birdlife... I think Nazeing is the last water I fished just boilies on, and I didn’t do too bad, but waters since then have not lent themselves to only boilies.

I do that, go through a reorganise phase, then go back to what I did previously as I found what I did previously worked best for me.

I split your post of the old 2009 Ardleigh thread as Google Analytics won't find or use threads that were started more than 5 years ago. I haven't been over there for years, I lost interest when my fishing buddy was on the tube that was in the London bombings, thank goodness he survived, but couldn't fish for a few years. I do know my big fish pictures are still around if you search though. The only thing I can suggest is walk and look, walk and look, constantly searching for fish, maybe baiting a few areas in case you don't see anything.

As the seasons roll on into winter fishing can be really tough. We had a wet autumn, with a couple of big storms putting a lot of cold water into the waterways. My syndicate lake rose a metre in 12hours. That is water level, not bank space. In terms of bank space, I had to move my rods and bivvy back 5metres. The constant cold water going in from rain, flowing in off the land and inlet stream put the fish off feeding. I don't know the depth or size of your lake, but walking and watching may or may not show you where the fish are, it may be that you have to fish it, a different area each time. It's so tough as so many different possibilities. It may be that the carp have been an learnt to avoid hi-viz/hi-attract pop-ups in the obvious flavours that 'everyone' uses. They may take a washed out pink or white bait, they may prefer a food bait, or even the 'smell' created by liquidised corn, or liquids in PVA bags. It may be that silver fish feeding attracts them. Watching the birds can be useful. Coots can suddenly surface looking flustered if they come across a big fish, it might be a pike, but it can be a carp. Fizzing in winter is not always carp, it can be a pike hitting the lakebed or turning the bottom as it hits a fish. 2 or 3 rod limits change how you fish; you have lost or gained an option. I'll go through my 3 rod fishing as that's what I do, but you will have to decide what to drop if you only have a 2 rod limit: Rod 1 is fished with a washed out pink pop-up in my garlic spice combination a thumb length off the lakebed. My lake has a reputation for the occasional winter fish on washed out pink baits (not much is caught through the winter), the garlic spice is one of my favourite combinations that catches well for me on many waters. Rod 2 is fished with my food bait (KMG) fished as a low pop-up, a Ronnie, 360 or D-rig tight to the lakebed, cast in with a PVA bag of crumbed boilie. Rod 3 is a snowman bait, the food bait tipped with a 12mm purple Monster Crab pop-up and again in a bag. I don't tend to put in any extra bait actually while I'm fishing, saving it until I leave, prebaiting for the next session a week later. (I normally fish 4day sessions). I don't have many silver fish in my lake, so using them is not really an option for me, but baiting up with any of or a combination of maggots, liquidised sweetcorn, finely ground breadcrumb can be a way to get fish feeding. I prefer red maggots, simple reason for me, they are the same colour as bloodworm, and in clear water, harder for those pesky coots and tufted ducks to see than white maggots. A teaspoon of mixed chilled powder and turmeric in 2pints of maggots degreases them, and adds a little attraction. Try to avoid oily fish meal groundbaits. Cold oils really don't release in cold water, and can take ages for the fish to digest. Lighter oils like sunflower or rapeseed may still work but don't use too much, you do want the oil 'breaking free' and coming up.

You've picked a tough time to start fishing a lake. The big question is are you sure you have found the fish? Sounds obvious I know but no point fishing the margins if they are in the middle of the lake. Spots to look for the fish, near snags, tree roots, maybe any rushes, dead or dying weedbeds, possibly natural food beds (bloodworm), which can be found by casting out and dragging a lead along, the grippa leads are good for this as @ouchthathurt mentioned. Over leaf litter is when I pretty much stick exclusively to pop-ups, making sure I have my bait above it, although in silt I try to get my bait to the level the fish are feeding at. That doesn't sound like it makes sense, but carp might not feed on top of the silt, but dig into it, picking up mouthfuls of natural food. On other lakes they might feed on top of the silt, especially if its horrible stinky stuff. Talking of stinky stuff, leaf litter I've heard can make the area more acidic, and put the fish off feeding for a while. On my syndicate lake, the lake is a pretty consistent depth, no drop-offs other than the old stream bed, however there are some softer holes in the silt where carp have dug them out. Imagine the lake is 4feet deep, and then you suddenly drop to 5feet deep. These holes gradually fill back up, but the bottom is softer. Those pop-ups, about the only time that I have a bait off the lake bed, normally I fish close to the lakebed, the counter weight directly below the hook, but in leaf litter I will fish with the weight a thumb or even forefinger length below the hook. Are you able to attract smaller silver fish and get them feeding? Their feeding might actually get the carp investigating. For that a groundbait with very little solid food content, maybe fine ground breadcrumb, liquidised or creamed sweetcorn. Hookbaits, obviously try sweetcorn, maybe maggots or boilies. Boilies: you might find in winter certain flavours work better than others. I used to do very well on Dynamite Green Zing, Solar and Nutrabaits Pineapple and N-butyric pop-ups, along with my own recipe Garlic and Spice ones. The occasional fish in winter on my syndicate comes out on pink pop-ups. I have to keep going back to it, years ago, I did a session between Christmas and New Year. For 2 days I caught on the high attract pop-ups mentioned above (my original garlic spice) then after feeding a few of my normal food bait boilies every day, I started catching on them, ordinary bottom baits. In that week I think I ended up with 10fish, nothing massive, but any fish in freezing winds and temperatures near 2 or 3⁰ Celsius is a good fish. The yellow and green pop-ups on the second lake worked on day trips when we hadn't got a bait established. On those two waters Other pop-ups just didn't cut it! Braid definitely gives a better sense of feel than mono.

I sometimes wish I wasn't single, believe me. An acrimonious split wasn't good with children involved. Although fishing most weeks is nice, the back and hip problems do make things painful at times, and life comes first. It took a whole year to get PIP sorted. I've got a trip planned this week, then more car problems to sort. I'd be really keen on another carp.com social. I'll see if I can get some beef or venison steaks ordered if it's a trip I can attend, I have a very good local butcher.

I have a centrepin, shooting jacket and flat cap, is that close enough? We had a clean up of dead branches and brambles around the lake and estate, and 2 bonfires were built. One was around 200metres from my bivvy, I smelt of wood smoke for 5 days.

I'd love to, although with hip and back, I'm not sure what I'm doing with hospital appointments etc. If you can a Sky dog friendly venue would be nice? I know it is a long way for many, but is Horcott a possibility? Maybe the Tench lake?