salokcinnodrog

Buzzbomb, Good to see innovation has not been lost Any bottle will do. I use to use Shampoo Bottles or Washing Up Liquid Bottles and cut the top off. Cut a piece of Foam or Polystyrene to the inside diameter of the Bottle and push it to the Bottom. At the top I would then drill 3 equidistant holes and using 15kg Amnesia, crimp 3 lengths through the Holes. Tie a swivel to the 3 lengths and then cover with Silicone Rig Tubing for tidiness.

Depends How long my hooklinks are! If I fish with a short 10-15cms hooklength I'll normally use about a 30cms. If I go up to using 60cm hooklengths then I'll use 120cm of tubing.

Sorry I disagree with having No Shockleader. I put a 4metre Length of 30lb Amnesia at the End of the Braid. Reason being with a Shockleader you have a Margin for Error and some stretch. If you mistime a Cast with No Shockleader you can cut your finger through to the Bone. If you crack off with just Braid you may well have lost a lot of Braid, but if you have a Crack Off with a shockleader the Chances are it will go at the knot joining the 2 together.

Not sure about that Coops. I have used In-lines a Lot in weed and had no problems. Maybe it's the way I use them in PVA bags. I put the hook and Bait in one corner and the Lead in the other, then fill bag with bait and close the top of the Bag around the Tubing. The Braided Rig is close to the Lead so I get quick indication. Even with stringers I had no problems, again maybe down to my way of attaching stringers. PVA tied/looped through the Swivel and hook. I.e Double your PVA and loop it through swivel, then back through loop. Attach bait to stringer then put hook through the PVA itself. I used In-lines at SWP and had no problems with Weed getting stuck on the Lead as I reeled in. Pendant Leads and Lead Clips I have found to jam up, even if fished properly as stated on Manufacturers packing, with the rubber only just holding the Lead on. I have even resorted to tying the Lead on in weed and had no Problems. I have lost fish with Helicopter set-ups, where the angle of Line on rig swivel has chafed across the tubing. Also I found Bite Indication far reduced with Helicopter set-ups, maybe it is down to Pressured Fish feeling for the Lead? I also found that in weed the Helicopter set up with the Lead trailing the Fish kept the fish lower in the water than an "Normal" up the line Lead Attachment. Mind you for the past few year I have been using Running Leads in Weed or near snags and can't remember the last time I lost a fish. A big Solar Run Ring doesn't get jammed up with Weed and The Ressie is very weedy in places. Think we'll get different answers on this, probably down to the way each of us fishes and has found to work for them;) :D

It is not particularly suitable for use in weedy waters. You are creating an angle across the lead/line as you are playing a fish. You risk more fish snagging up/snap off using the Helicopter set-ups in weed. Far better to use an IN-LINE set-up, as the Lead does not get snagged up in weed. Weed just slides over the Lead. Even a Pendant set-up with a Safety Clip can cause problems in weedy waters.

Only as a weak link, same as tying a lead on for weed.

You can learn a hell of a lot from Books. Like the fact that Rod Hutchinson recommended Suspended Baits in The Carp Strikes Back about 20 YEARS AGO. And also for doubling up on Paternoster Lengths when you fish Paternosted Floating Baits. He recommended the Use of a Fixed and a Bolt Rig for Suspended Baits, as he called them, not a Blooming Zig Rig He also recommended using 1-3lb line for 2-3 oz Leads. Just attach it with PVA when Casting, lol and it doesn't break

Prefer Solar Tubing Myself, nicely matches the Lake bed. I think they also have the distribution on the Armourtube which I have used.

I just use a Thumbnail. If you get a pair of those plastic Child Safety scissors they are supposed to be good for breaking the coating.

Have a look at Carp-R-Us Nailers, they are available in Barbed and Barbless. I used them at Earith a couple of years ago, due to the Barbless only Rule. I liked them so much after use that I use them for a lot of my fishing now by choice. Over 2 years I had 1hookpull on them, and that could have been my fault as I put a lot of pressure on to hold a fish away from a reedbed. (may have been a rig problem though). Either way after lengthening the hair I didn't lose another fish. In 2 seasons I lost count of the fish I landed on them it was so many. The biggest Carp I landed on them was a 25lb Common, with no problems Longshank Nailer for Pop-ups and ordinary Nailer for Bottom Baits.

Fox, and Carp-R-us Shrink Tube are the best 2 I have found.

Wasn't the original Multistrand by Nash and had to be split down for use as it had a Green weave through some of it? Snakebite, Multistrand with a coating, untwisted.

You must have gone forward onto it. and just stopped there. Besides, how many people got on with it effectively? easy to tangle unless you take care with Superstiff or thick tubing and Stringers. Not many people took the trouble to think about it's use. Less pressure on Multistrand users to be different as the lack of numbers using it mean its different anyway. :D Seriously why change something that works for you?

I have a 3rd edition I was very kindly given. Carp Fever, while about fishing in the 70's and 80's, much/most of it is still relevant today. Kevin Maddocks and the other contributors were responsible for some of the most important advances in Carp Fishing. Their Bait Development, Hair rig Invention and even Tackle Development are still in use today. Kevin Maddocks was streets ahead of some of the other names when it came to catching fish and his ideas that would put fish on the Bank. Rod Hutchinson's "The Carp Strikes Back" is another book that even today is a must read. His Bait knowledge and research are still in use today as well. Dacron is really the first step out from Mono Hooklinks that were in use, as there were few viable alternatives; although Richard Walker had used Braided Nylon as it was not so stiff as MonoFilament. If you think about it we are heading back full circle and the Pressure Cycle is trying to confuse the Carp as to what they are used to picking up. After Dacron do you go back or forward to Multistrand? lol:D :D

Kryston Super Mantis in either Gold or original, depending on the Bottom colour.

Or as Jemsue says, use a piece of Shrink Tubing over the eye, another pic attached. This rig has accounted for a 23.8 Fully scaled from my Reservoir. The hook is a Size 8 Carp-R-Us Nailer.

Pic attached, simple Hair rig tied with 15lb Kryston Merlin. Size 8 swivel, Mustad hook ( pre-release sample) knotless knotted and hair formed from continuation of braid. Incidentally this is actually one of my Bench Test rigs, not one I've used in actual fishing. Although I use the same rig, just not with the Hook shown, I have been using Carp-R-Us Nailers for my actual fishing. The hooks have now been released and there is a thread on Mustad Carp hooks

Nice to see a debate on zig rig hooklengths that doesn't degenerate into Name Calling! I must admit that I use the Carp-R-Us Clearwater Fluorocarbon as it has stretch and no memory, although in the past I have used Match Hooklengths. The only reason I changed is because on 1 water I fish the Carp are heavily fished for by Match Anglers with suspended baits, so I looked for something different from what they were doing.

Thats the thing. Most rigs were designed to do a specific job on a specific water. The Hutchinson Sliding Hair Rig, the Withy Pool Rig and The D-Rig are all examples. A simple hair rig WILL work on most waters, but once the Carp start getting wary the majority of the time the easy way to start catching again is to lengthen the Hair and/or Hooklength. The Withy Pool Rig if I remember rightly was designed for Fish that were not willing to take High Pop-ups that were needed to counter the Crayfish in Withy Pool, i.e the pop-up was being ejected too easily, so a long curved extension was added to make it difficult to eject. Who is to say that the Savay Rig would not have worked? Incidentally I believe it was Zenon Bojko who designed the Helicopter Rig, not for fishing in Silt, but for its Tangle free Long Distance Casting Properties. (Beekay's "Carp" by Rob Maylin). It was discovered that by having a top bead set further up the line that a good silt set-up could be created, and was published by Tim Paisley in Big Carp, over 10years ago.

Strangley enough the "simple" rigs that work well are the same rigs that I was fishing effectively with over 10years ago. My PB came on a double 18mm bottom bait on a long hair, line aligned braid hooklength of 20cms, those same rigs are still working for me today. The only thing that I have changed is the hook itself, as I found that with a Drennan Super Specialist the point got taken off too easily on gravel. When I caught my PB I actually lowered the End Tackle into the water so I could see that it had gone down safely. The hooks I use now are the Carp-R-Us Nailers, Centurions and Owners, these hooks on the same rigs have produced plenty of Big Fish for me up to 26lbs, and some of them from pressured waters; Yew Tree, Taverham Mills amongst others. The one thing that has changed is I have gone from a Semi-Fixed Lead to a Running Lead, for 2 reasons: 1) Everyone and his dog seems to fish a Semi-Fixed lead or Helicopter rig. 2) I feel I get better and more instant Indication with a Running Lead. Yet I know the best for Indication would be a Paternoster rig, but you actually have to be sat on the rods to hit a take, as many of my fish come at night I can't be awake for 24hours, although someone will say that I seem never to sleep:p I think until someone comes up with something new on this subject ,and there is a lot of it, I'm going over stuff that has been said before.

Joshmac, you need to qualify that statement. Maybe you don't tie your knots carefully enough, you may need to find the brand of Fluorocarbon that suits you. You may even be using the wrong knot for fluorocarbon lines. If you use the wrong knot it will fracture and break at the knot, or even if you don't tighten your knots carefully enough. I have had no problems with it, always use either the loop knot on Kryston packaging or a Uni knot and lubricate and tighten my knots very carefully and slowly.

Glad you got it! Its the knot I use myself, but couldn't describe it myself any better than Coops did. I knew I had seen it on Kryston packaging, but had thrown it away or I would have scanned it for you.

Something that doesn't show up in water! Maybe try a fluorocarbon. I've got some Carp-R-Us Clearwater for Zig Rigs and floater fishing. :D

From the Description Coops gives it is pictured in Kryston packaging I think.

Fish with what you have confidence in. I don't often use fluorocarbon for hooklinks as I am Confident in Braids and Coated Braids. Have a look at the Carp Fishing is simple thread, there is a picture of one of my rigs on there.